THE 

COMPLETE 

CONFECTIONER, 

PASTRY-COOK.  AND  BAKER.        , 

PLAIN  AND  PRACTICAL 

DIRECTIONS   FOR    MAKING 

CONFECTIONARY   AND    PASTRY, 

AND    FOR   BAKING; 

WITH  UPWARDS  OF  FIVE  HUNDRED  RECEIPTS! 

CONSISTING   OF 

DIRECTIONS  FOR  MAKING  ALL  SORTS  OF  PRESERVES, 
SUGAR-BOILING,   COMFITS,    LOZENGES, 

ORNAMENTAL  CAKES, 

ICES,   LIQUEURS,   WATERS,   GUM-PASTE   ORNAMENTS 
SYRUPS,  JELLIES,  MARMALADES,  COMPOTES, 

BREAD- BAKING, 

ARTIFICIAL  YEASTS,  FANCY  BISCUITS, 

CAKES,  ROLLS,  MiJFFINS,  TARTS,  PIES,  <fec.  &c. 

WITH     ADDITIONS     AND     ALTERATIONS, 

BY   PARKINSON, 

Practical  Confectioner,  Chestnut  Street. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
LEA    AND    BLANC  HARD, 

1846. 


Entered,  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1844,  by 

LEA  AND  BLANCHARD, 

in  the  clerk's  office  of  the  district  court  of  the  United  States  in  and  for 
the  eastern  district  of  Pennsylvania. 


J.  Fagan,  Stereotyper. 


J.  &  W.  Kite,  Painters. 

(2? 


msn  «* 


PREFACE 

. 

TO    THE    AMERICAN    EDITION.  :HiAj  »uf> 

-d*J 
ALMOST  every  foreigner  who  visits  this  country  re- 

marks with  astonishment  the  almost  universal  neglect 
of  that  art  upon  which,  more  than  any  thing  else,  de- 
pends the  health  and  comfort  of  a  people  ;  and  by  many 
scientific  men  have  most  of  the  prevalent  diseases  of 
this  country,  especially  the  dyspepsia,  been  ascribed  to 
the  hurried,  crude  and  unwholesome  manner  in  which 
our  food  is  prepared  ;  of  latter  years,  more  attention  has 
been  paid  to  cooking  ;  but  the  handmaiden  of  that  pa- 
rent art,  confectionary,  is  still  neglected  and  unknown, 
yet  it  is  of  little  less  importance  than  the  graver  branch 
referred  to.  Confectionary  is  the  poetry  of  epicurism  ; 
it  throws  over  the  heavy  enjoyments  of  the  table  the 
relief  of  a  milder  indulgence,  and  dispenses  the  delights 
of  a  lighter  and  more  harmless  gratification  of  the  ap- 
petite. The  dessert,  properly  prepared,  contributes 
equally  to  health  and  comfort  ;  but  "  got  up"  as  con- 
fectionary too  often  is,  it  is  not  only  distasteful  to  a 
correct  palate,  but  is  deleterious  and  often  actually  poi- 
sonous. 

In  introducing  to  the  American  public  the  modes  by 
which  the  table  of  hospitality  may  be  enriched  and 

(3) 


IV  PREFACE   TO   THE   AMERICAN    EDITION. 

adorned,  we  have  consulted  every  authority,  French  or 
English,  within  our  reach ;  but  the  basis  of  our  little 
work  is  to  be  found  in  Read's  Confectioner,  a  late  Lon- 
don publication. 

Having  for  many  years  been  connected  with  the  old- 
est, most  extensive  and  successful  confectionary  estab- 
lishment in  the  country,  we  have  been  enabled  to  make 
from  our  own  experience  many  important  modifications 
and  to  introduce  many  additional  receipts,  particularly 
in  relation  to  the  various  articles  of  luxury  which  the 
bounty  of  our  soil  and  climate  render  almost  exclusively 
American. 

The  volume  has  thus  been  increased  in  size,  and  we 
trust  improved  in  value. 

Trusting  that  our  efforts  to  advance  the  popular 
knowledge  of  the  art  which  has  for  many  years  engaged 
our  attention,  may  meet  with  approbation,  we  present 
the  result  of  our  labours  to  a  candid  and  indulgent 
public. 

Chestnut  Street, 
Philadelphia, 

Die.  1843. 


PREFACE 
TO    THE    ENGLISH    EDITION. 

MUCH  as  there  has  been  written  in  Cookery  Books  on  the  art  of 
Confectionary,  there  are  few,  very  few  works  on  the  subject  now 
extant  which  are  practically  written,  and  these  are  difficult  to  be 
obtained,  even  at  high  prices;  and,  having  been  published  some  years 
since,  they  do  not  contain  any  of  the  modern  improvements,  or  arti- 
cles which  have  been  introduced  within  these  few  years.  The  object 
of  the  present  Treatise  is  to  supply  this  deficiency,  and  to  convey  in- 
struction in  as  plain  and  concise  a  manner  as  possible  to  the  inexperi- 
enced, or  young  apprentices,  that  they  may  be  enabled  to  learn  their  bu- 
siness more  efficiently  than  many  masters  can  or  will  instruct  them  in  it. 

The  style  and  character  of  the  present  work  will  be  found  quite 
different  from  anything  which  has  preceded  it.  In  the  part  relating 
to  Sugar-boiling  I  have  endeavoured  to  show  the  causes  of  the  effects 
which  take  place  at  the  different  stages,  with  the  uses  to  which  each 
of  the  processes  is  applied.  The  deficiency  on  Hard  Confectionary 
which  occurs  in  all  other  works  will  be  found  amply  supplied  in  this. 
In  the  proportions  for  medicated  lozenges  I  have  preferred  those 
which  are  ordered  by  the  different  Colleges  of  Surgeons  in  their 
pharmacopoeias  to  those  used  by  the  trade,  as  being  more  likely  to 
contain  the  true  quantities  of  the  different  drugs  which  should  com- 
pose them.  It  is  from  this  source  that  they  were  originally  derived, 
as  at  one  time  they  formed  no  inconsiderable  part  of  pharmacy ;  but 
they  are  now  only  made  by  confectioners. 

The  Section  on  Ices  I  have  endeavoured  to  render  as  plain  and 
intelligible  as  possible,  and  although  I  have  given  general  as  well  as 
definite  rules  for  the  mixture  of  each  sort,  yet  the  last  cannot  at  all 
times  be  implicitly  followed,  but  must  be  modified  or  altered  with 
respect  to  the  flavouring  matter  so  as  to  suit  the  taste  of  the  em- 
ployer or  the  parties  for  whom  they  are  intended ;  this  should  always 
be  most  scrupulously  attended  to,  if  it  is  wished  to  give  satisfaction, 
as  no  fixed  rules  can  be  given  which  will  admit  of  their  being  made 
to  please  all  persons. 

The  business  of  confectionary  is  divided  into  several  branches, 
some  of  them  being  quite  distinct  and  separate  from  each  other. 
The  branch  known  as  Hard  Confectionary  is  literally  the  whole  of 
the  business,  according  to  the  strict  meaning  of  the  word,  which  is 
derived  from  the  French  words  confitures — cornfits,  things  crusted 
1*  "  (v) 


VI  PREFACE    TO    THE    ENGLISH    EDITION. 

over  with  dry  sugar  ;  and  confiturier — confectioner,  a  maker  or  seller 
of  comfits  or  other  sweetmeats.  The  other  branches  are  the  Orna- 
mental and  Soft  Confectionary.  The  latter  relates  to  everything 
connected  with  the  oven,  or  all  sorts  of  cakes  and  soft  biscuits,  and 
more  particularly  to  the  preservation  of  fruits;  the  other,  as  the 
name  implies,  to  every  description  of  ornaments  necessary  for  the 
decoration  of  the  table.  Hard  Confectionary  still  remains  a  distinct 
branch  or  trade  of  itself;  in  fact,  many  persons'  sole  occupation  is 
the  making  of  lozenges  and  comfits,  termed  pan-work.  Some  also 
combine  with  these  the  different  articles  connected  with  sugar-boiling 
and  preserving.  The  latter  are  in  general  blended  together,  and 
mostly  practised  by  cooks  and  pastry-cooks;  but  the  chief  business 
of  a  confectioner  is  alone  connected  with  the  ornamental  department, 
and  everything  necessary  for  the  dessert. 

I  have  thought  it  requisite  to  mention  this  specifically,  so  as  to 
prevent  the  occurrence  of  errors  which  parents  and  guardians  of 
families  often  fall  into  respecting  the  nature  of  the  business,  and  alsc 
with  regard  to  the  capacity  of  the  child  which  they  intend  should  be 
brought  up  to  it.  I  have  heard  many  say,  "  Never  mind ;  he  is  a 
stupid  fool,  and  may  do  very  well  to  make  cakes."  If  making  cakes 
were  the  sole  object  he  would  have  to  accomplish,  perhaps  he  might 
do  very  well ;  but  even  this  requires  more  ingenuity  than  is  generally 
considered ;  and  if  the  welfare  of  the  child  is  studied,  so  as  to  enable 
him  to  obtain  his  livelihood  in  a  respectable  manner,  they  must  find 
some  means  of  enabling  him  to  acquire  a  considerable'  deal  more 
knowledge  than  is  general  with  a  common-place  education,  to  enable 
him  to  compete  with  the  talent  at  present  in  the  labour-market.  The 
person  adapted  for  this  business  should  be  neat  and  cleanly  in  his 
habits,  of  a  lively  and  ingenious  mind,  have  a  quick  conception  of 
design,  a  delicate  taste,  with  a  general  knowledge  of  architecture, 
mythology,  and  the  fine  arts  ;  for  they  are  as  requisite  in  the  con- 
struction of  a  Piece  Montee,  or  an  allegorical  subject  to  embellish 
the  table,  as  to  an  architect  or  sculptor  in  the  construction  of  an  ex- 
pensive building  or  monument.  I  do  not  mean  to  infer  that  his  in- 
formation must  be  so  extensive,  or  that  he  will  be  required  to  make 
the  tour  of  Italy,  Rome,  and  Greece,  to  study  the  original  masters ; 
but  let  him  take  Nature  for  his  guide  ;  and  if  he  possess  the  rudi- 
ments or  principles  of  the  art  of  design,  he  cannot  fail,  with  a  little 
attention  and  perseverance,  to  become  an  adept  in  the  higher  or  orna- 
mental branches  of  his  business* 


CONTENTS. 


THE    CONFECTIONER,. 


SECT.  I. — Confectionary. 

Clarification  of  Raw  Sugar.  .. 

To  clarify  Loaf  Sugar 

Degrees  of  boiling  Sugar 

SYRUP 

Small  Thread 

Large  Thread 

Little  Pearl 

Large  Pearl 

CHRYSTALLIZATION 

To  ascertain  the  degree  of 
the  blow 

The  Feather 

CANDY 

The  Ball 

The  Crack 

Caramel 


SECT.  II. — Syrups. 

General   Rules    and    Observa- 
tions   

Infusions 

Decoctions 

Raspberry  Syrup 

Pine-apple  Syrup 

Raspberry  Vinegar  Syrup  .... 

Strawberry  Syrup 

Currant  Syrup 

Morello  Cherry  Syrup 

Mulberry  Syrup 

Gooseberry  Syrup 

Lemon  Syrup 

Orange  Syrup 

Orange-Flower  Syrup 

Sirop  de  Capillaire. — Syrup  of 
Maidenhair 

Syrup  of  Liquorice 

Syrup  of  Violets 

Syrup  of  Pinks 

Syrup  of  Roses 

Syrup  of  Wormwood 

Syrup  of  Marshmallows 

Syrup  of  Sarsaparilla 

Syrup  of  Coltsfoot 


I  Syrup  of  Ginger 23 

1  Syrup  of  Almonds 24 

;  Sirop  de  Pistache 24 

i  Syrup  of  Coffee 24 

j  Syrup  of  Rum  Punch 24 

I  Brandy  and  Wine  Syrups  ....  24 

'  SECTION  III. — Crystallized  Su- 
gar, and  articles  crystallized, 
commonly  called  Candies. 
Crystallized  or  Candied  Sugar. .     25 

I  Fruits  to  Crystallize 25 

j  Crystallized  Chocolate 26 

!  Liqueur  Rings,  Drops  and  other 

Devices 26 

To  form  a  Chain  with  Liqueur 

Rings 27 

SECT.  IV. — Candy  —  Bonbon  — 
Conserve. 

Ginger  Candy 27 

Peppermint,  Lemon   and  Rose 

Candy 

i  Coltsfoot  or  Horehound  Candy 
I  Artihcial  Fruit,  Eggs,  &c 


27 
27 
27 

Burnt  Almonds 28 

Burnt  Almonds— Red 28 

(  Filberts  and  Pistachios 28 

j  Common  Burnt  Almonds 28 

i  Orange  Prawlings 29 

|  Lemon  Prawlings 29 

|  SECT.  V. —  Crack  and  Caramel. 

\  Barley  Sugar 29 

i  Barley  Sugar  Drops 29 

:  Barley  Sugar  Tablets  or  Kisses  29 

j  Acid  Drops  and  Sticks 30 

i  To  extract  the  Acid  from  Can- 
died Drops,  &c 30 

Raspberry  Candy 31 

Clove,  Ginger,  or   Peppermint 

Candy 31 

Brandy  Balls,  &c 31 

!  Nogat 32 

I  Almond  Rock 32 

1  Almond  Hardbake 32 

(vii) 


Vlll 


CONTENTS. 


ON  SUGAR-SPINNING. 

To  make  a  Silver  Web 33 

To  make  a  Gold  Web 33 

Chantilly  Baskets 33 

Grape,  Orange,  or  Cherry  Bas- 
kets    34 

Almond  Baskets 34 

Spanish  Candy 34 

Vases  or  Baskets,  &c.,  in  Span- 
ish Candy 34 

SECT.  VI.— Chocolate, 

Cacao  Nuts 35 

Roasting 35 

The  Making  of  Chocolate 36 

Vanilla  Chocolate 36 

Cinnamon,  Mace  or  Clove  Cho- 
colate    37 

Stomachic  Chocolate 37 

Chocolate  Harlequin  Pistachios  37 
Chocolate  Drops,  with  Nonpa- 
reils    37 

SECT.  VII. — Lozenges. 

Peppermint,  No.  1 38 

Peppermint,  No.  2 38 

Peppermint,  Nos.  3  and  4 38 

Transparent  Mint,  No.  5 38 

Superfine  Transparent  MintLo- 

zenges 39 

Rose  Lozenges 39 

Cinnamon  Lozenges 39 

Clove  Lozenges 39 

Lavender  Lozenges   39 

Ginger  Lozenges 39 

Nutmeg  Lozenges 39 

Rhubarb  Lozenges 39 

Sulphur  Lozenges 39 

Tolu  Lozenges 39 

Ipecacuanha  Lozenges 39 

Saffron  Lozenges 40 

Yellow  Pectoral  Lozenges  ...  40 

Lozenges  for  the  Heartburn ...  40 

Steel  Lozenges 40 

Magnesia  Lozenges 40 

Nitre  Lozenges  . . .  40 

Marshmallow  Lozenges 40 

Vanilla  Lozenges 40 

Catechu  Lozenges 40 

Catechu  a  1' Ambergris 40 

Catechu  with  Musk 4i> 

Catechu  with  Orange-flowers..  40 


Catechu  with  Violets 40 

Ching's  Yellow  Worm  Lozenges  40 

Ching's  Brown  Worm  Lozenges  41 

Bath  Pipe 41 

Peppermint  or  other  Pipes ....  41 

Brilliants 41 

Refined  Liquorice 41 

SECTION  VIII. — Pastile  Drops. 

Chocolate  Drops 42 

Coffee  Drops 42 

Cinnamon  Drops 43 

Clove  Drops 43 

Vanilla  Drops 43 

Violet  Drops 43 

Catechu  Drops 43 

Ginger  Drops 43 

Lemon  Drops 43 

Rose  Drops 43 

Peppermint  Drops 43 

Orange-flower  Drops 43 

Orgeat  Drops 43 

Raspberry  Drops 43 

SECT.  IX.— Com/its. 

Scotch  Caraway  Comfits 44 

Bath  Caraways 45 

Common  Caraways 45 

Cinnamon  Comfits 45 

Coriander  Comfits 46 

Celery  Comfits 46 

Caraway  Comfits,  pearled 46 

Almond  Comfits 46 

Cardamom  Comfits 46 

Barberry  Comfits 46 

Cherry  Comfits 47 

Comfits  flavoured  with  Liqueurs  47 

Orange  Comfits 47 

Lemon  Peel  or  Angelica 47 

Nonpareils 47 

To  colour  Nonpareils  or  Comfits  47 

COMFITS  IN  GUM  PASTE. 

Raspberry  Comfits 47 

Ginger  Comfits 47 

Clove  Comfits 48 

To  colour  Loaf-sugar  Dust  ...  48 

SECT.  X.— Fruit  Jetties. 

Apple  Jelly 49 

Quince  Jelly 43 

Red  Currant  Jelly 4g 

White  and  Black  Currant  Jelly  49 


CONTENTS. 


IX 


Violet-coloured  Currant  Jolty . .  49 

Cherry  Jelly 49 

Barberry  Jelly 49 

Raspberry  Jelly 49 

Gooseberry  Jelly 49 

Blackberry  Jelly 49 

SECT.  XI. — Marmalades  or  Jams. 

Apple  Marmalade 50 

Quince  Marmalade   50 

Apricot  Marmalade  or  Jam ...  50 

Cherry  Marmalade  or  Jam  ...  50 

Orange  Marmalade 50 

Grape  Marmalade 50 

SECT.  XII.— Of  Fruit  and  other 
Pastes. 

Fruit  Pastes  and  Cakes 51 

Apple  or  Pippin  Paste 51 

Apple  Cheese 51 

Apricot  Paste   51 

Green  Apricot  Paste 52 

Currant  Paste 52 

Black  Currant  Paste 52 

Raspberry  Paste 52 

Cherry  Paste 52 

Peach  Paste 52 

Plum  Paste 52 

Damson  Cheese ...    52 

Quince  Paste 53 

Orange  Paste 53 

Lemon  Paste ...  53 

Raspberry  Cakes 53 

Clear  Cakes,  or  Jelly  Cakes  . .  53 

Marshmallow  Paste 54 

Arabic  Paste 54 

Date  Paste 55 

Jujube  Paste 55 

Senegal  Paste 55 

White  Liquorice  Paste 55 

Black  Liquorice  Paste 55 

Jujube  Gum 55 

Gomme  des  Dattes 56 

Gum  of  Violets 56 

Almond  Paste — Orgeat  Paste. .  56 
SECT.  XIII.— Fruits  Preserved 
with  Sugar. 

WET  FRUITS  ...    56 

Green  Apricots,  wet 57 

Green  Apricots,  pared  wet 58 

Ripe  Apricots,  wet 58 

Ripe  Peaches,  whole,  wet 58 


Ripe  Nectarines,  wet 58 

Figs,  wet 58 

Greengages,  wet 58 

Mogul  Plums 59 

Damsons,  wet 59 

Green  Gooseberries,  wet 59 

Green  Gooseberries  in  the  form 

of  Hops,  wet 59 

Cucumbers  or  Gherkins,  wet. .  59 

Green  Melons 60 

Ripe  Melons,  w  et 60 

Lemons,  whole,  Tvet 60 

Oranges,  whole,  wet 60 

Whole  Orange  Peels 60 

Orange  or  Lemon  Peels,  wet.  .  60 

Orange  or  Lemon  Chips 61 

Angelica,  wet 61 

Eringo  Root 61 

Pine  Apple,  whole,  wet 61 

Pine  Apple  Chips  or  Slices  ...  61 

Cherries,  wet  or  dry 62 

Whole  Cherries 62 

Grapes  in  Bunches 62 

Currants  in  Bunches,  wet 62 

Barberries  in  Bunches,  wet. . .  63 

Raspberries,  whole,  wet 63 

Pears,  whole,  wet 63 

Pears,  Red,  wet 63 

Quinces,  Red  or  White,  wet. .  64 

Ginger,  wet 64 

Candied  Fruit 64 

Dried  Fruit 64 

SECT.  XIV.— Compotes. 

Green  Apricot  Compote 65 

Ripe  Apricot  Compote 65 

Compote  of  Apples,  with  Jelly.  65 

Apple  Compote 65 

Grape  Compote 65 

Currant  Compote 65 

Raspberry  Compote 66 

Strawberry  Compote 66 

Macedoine  of  Fruits 66 

Cherry  Compote 66 

SECT.  XV.— Brandy  Fruits.. . .  66 
SECT.  XVI.— On  Bottled  Fruits, 

or  Fruits  Preserved  without 

Sugar 67 

SECT.  XVII.— Of  Cooling  Drinks 

for  Balls  and  Routs. 
Gooseberry,  Currant,  Raspberry 

and  Strawberry  Waters 68 


CONTENTS. 


Cherry  Water 69 

Apricot  and  Peach  Water 69 

Orgeat  Water 69 

Lemonade 69 

Orangeade 69 

SECT.  XVIII.— ices. 

To  freeze  Ices 70 

Cream  Ices 72 

Raspberry,  fresh  fruit  and  Jam  72 

Strawberry 73 

Currant,  fresh  &  preserved  fruit  73 

Barberry  Ice 73 

Apricot,  fresh  Fruit,  and  Jam. .  73 

Peach  Ice 73 

Pine  Apple,  fresh  &  preserved  ft.  73 

Ginger  Ice 73 

Brahma  Ice 73 

Orange  Ice  Cream 73 

China  Orange  Ice  Cream 74 

Cherry  Ice  Cream 74 

Harlequin  Ice 74 

Lemon  Ice  Cream 74 

Mille  Fruit  Crcarn  Ice 74 

Custard  Ices 74 

Custard  for  Ices 74 

Plornbiere  Ice,  or  Swiss  Pudding  74 

The  Sauce 75 

Almond  or  Orgeat  Ice  Cream .  75 

Pistachio  Ice  Cream 75 

Filbert  Ice  Cream 75 

Chestnut  Ice 75 

Burnt  Filbert  Ice  Cream 75 

Burnt  Almond  Ice  Cream  ....  75 

Coffee  Ice  Cream 75 

Chocolate  Ice 76 

Tea  Ice 76 

Vanilla  Ice 76 

Noyau  Cream  Ice 76 

Maraschino  Cream  Ice 76 

Water  Ices 77 

Currant  Water  lee 77 

Cherry  Water  Ice 77 

Gooseberry  Water  Ice 77 

Raspberry  Water  Ice 77 

Apricot  Water  Ice 77 

Peach  Water  Ice 77 

Damson  Ice 77 

Pine-Apple  Water  Ice 78 

Fresh  Pine- Apple  Water  Ice.  .  78 

Apple-water  Ice 78 

Pear- Water  Ice 78 


Orange- Water  Ice 78 

Lemon-Water  Ice 78 

Maraschino- Water  Ice 78 

Punch-Water  Ice 78 

Roman  Punch  Ice 79 

Mille  Fruit  Water  Ice 79 

SECT.  XIX.-  Jellies. 

Calves'  Feet  Jellies 79 

Coffee  Jelly 79 

Tea  Jelly,  Green  or  Black 79 

FRUIT  JELLIES. 

Strawberry  Jelly 80 

Pine- Apple  Jelly 80 

Jelly  of  Apricots 80 

Orange  Jelly 80 

Blanc  Mange 80 

SECT.  XX. — Essences. 

Lemon,  Orange,  and  Bergamot.  81 

Essence  de  Cedrat 81 

Allspice,  Cloves,  Cinnamon,  or 

Nutmegs,  &c 82 

Ginger,    Peppermint,    Vanilla, 

and  Almonds 82 

SECT.  XXI. — Meringues,  Icing. 

Dry,  in  the  form  of  Eggs 82 

Kisses 83 

Italian  Meringues 83 

Mushrooms 83 

Icing  for  Wedding  or  Twelfth 

Cakes,  &c 84 

On  piping  Cakes,  Bon-bons,  &c.  84 

SECT.  XXII.—  Gum  Paste. 

For  Ornaments .  85 

For  Gilding  on 86 

Papier  Machee 86 

To  gild  Gum  Paste,  &c 86 

To  Bronze  Gum  Paste 87 

On  the  Construction  of  Assiettes 

and  Pieces  Montees 87 

Of  Pieces  Montees 88 

Biscuit  Paste  to  imitate  Marble 

Rocks,  &c 88 

Confectioners'  Paste 89 

Assiettes    Monies,  or    Dressed 

Plates 89 

On  Modelling 90 

Modelling  Tools 92 

Modelling  Wax 92 


CONTENTS. 


xi 


SECT.  XXIII.— On  Colours. 

To  Prepare  Cochineal 92 

Carmine,  Yellow,  Prussian  Blue. 

Sap  Grsen,  &  Spinach  Green    93 

Vermilion  and  Cinnabar 94 

Bole  Ammoniac,  Umber,  Bistre, 

andBLck 94 

THE  SHADES  PRODUCED  BY  A  Mix- 

TURK  OF  COLOURS. 
Purple,  Lilac,  Orange,  Gold,  Le- 
mon, and  Green 94 

SECT.  XXIV.— Distillation. 

ON  ESSENTIAL  OILS 95 

DISTILLED  WATERS. 
Orange-Flower,  &  Rose  Water    96 
Cinnamon,  Pepper  mint,  Lemon- 
Peel,  &  Black-Cherry  Water    97 

SPIRITS  FOR  LIQUEURS. 
Distilled  Spirituous  Waters  for 

Liqueurs 98 

Hungary  Water 98 

Maraschino  de  Zara 98 

Kirchenwasser. . ,  .99 


Eau  Divine 99 

Eau  de  Cologne 99 

Curasao 99 

Eau  de  Melisse  des  Cannes. . .     99 

The  English  Method 99 

Spirit  of  Coffee,  and  Almonds .     99 
Spirit  of  Tea,  and  Usquebaugh.  100 

LIQUEURS 100 

RATAFIAS. 

Ratafia  de  Cafe 100 

Ratafia  de  Cacao 100 

Ratafia  des  Noyaux 100 

Ratafia  of  Cherries 101 

Ratafia  des  Cassis 101 

Ratafia  of  Raspberries 101 

Ratafia  des  Fleurs  des  Oranges  101 

Ratafia  d'CEillets 101 

Ratafia  d'Angelique 101 

Vespetro 101 

Chr&ne  de  Barbade 101 

Chrdme  d'Orange 101 

Ratafia  d'Anis 101 

Ratafia  de  Brout  des  Noix 102 

SECT.  XXV.— The  Stove  or  Hot 
Closet 102 


THE   PASTRY-COOK. 


INTRODUCTION 103 

BLANCHED  AXMONDS,  ICING,  PRE- 
PARED TREACLE,  &  RENNET..  104 

FANCY  BISCUITS. 

Abernethy,  American,  Brighton, 
Buttered,  Captains,  Drop,  Fil- 
bert, Lemon,  and  Naples  ...  105 

Queens,  Rout,  Savoy,  Seedy, 
Wine,  York,  and  Powder. . .  106 

Drops,  and  Cracknels 107 

SECT.  I.— The  Oven. 

Cakes 107 

Savoy  Cakes 108 

Cold  Mixtures 108 

Almond  Savoy  Cakes  and  Al- 
mond Hearts 109 

VeniceCake 109 

Savoy,  to  represent  a  Melon  . .  109 
Savoy,  to  imitate  a  Hedgehog..  109 
Bordeaux  or  Parisian  Cakes  . .  110 


Italian  Bread 110 

Rice  Pound  Cake 110 

Wafers 110 

CAKES. 

Almond  Cakes 110 

Almond  Savoy Ill 

Bride,* Bath,  and  Banbury 111 

Breakfast 112 

Cinnamon,  Currant,  Caraway, 
Common  Cheese,  Curd  Cheese, 

and  Almond  Cheese 112 

Lemon   Cheese,    Derby,    Diet 
Bread,  Ginger,  Lord  Mayors, 

and  Lunch 113 

Moss,  Macaroon,  Plum,  Pound, 

and  Prussian 114 

Queens,  Queen's  Drops,  Rout, 

Raspberry,  and  Ratafias.  ...  115 
Savoy,  Sponge,  Seed,  Shrews- 
bury, Tea,  Twelfth,  and  York- 
shire   116 


Xll 


CONTENTS. 


York  Drops,  Anne  Page's,  York 
Cakes,  Jumbles,  Cinnamon 
Biscuit,  Hazlenut  Kisses,  and 
Vanilla  Biscuit 117 

Trifle,  Cocoanut,  Sans  Soucies, 
Cocoa  Biscuit,  Lady  Cake, 
and  Lady  Fingers 118 

Spoon  Biscuit,  Small  Biscuits 
with  Almonds,  Biscuits  with 
Cream,  Biscuits  glazed  with 
Chocolate 119 

Biscuits  glazed  with  Orange.  •  120 

FANCY  BREAD,  GINGER-BREAD, 
BUNS,  ROLLS,  MUFFINS,  CRUM- 
PETS, &,c. 

Almond  Bread,  Colchester,  and 

Diet 120 

French    Rolls,     Short    Bread, 


Queen's  Ginger-Bread,  Spice 
Ginger-Bread,  Thick  Ginger- 
Bread,  and  Sweetmeat  Nuts. .  121 

Spice  Nuts,  Muffins,  Wheat 
Muffins,  Rice  Muffins,  Rice 
Cakes,  and  Buckwheat  Cakes  122 

Flannel  Cakes,  Indian  Slappers, 
Jolmny-Cake,  Corn  Bread, 
Crumpets,  and  Rusks 123 

Sweet  Rusks,  Tops  &  Bottoms  124 

OF  PASTES  IN  GENERAL — PRELI- 
MINARY REMARKS 124 

To  MAKE  PUFF  PASTE. 

Ingredients,  &c 125 

Puff,  Short,  and  Tart  Pastes  . .  126 

Apricot  Tart r 126 

Covered  and  Raspberry  Tarts .  127 
Mince  Pies,  and  Raised  Pie.  . .  127 


THE    BAKER. 


INTRODUCTION 128 

GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  BAKING.  .  129 
FAMILY  LOAF-BREAD 132 

Brown  or  Diet  Bread 134 

Bread  not  liable  to  become  Bit- 
ter  134 

ARTIFICIAL  YEASTS. 

Yeast  to  Preserve 135 

Potatoe  Yeast 135 

Dr.  Lettsom's  Method 135 

Artificial  Yeast 135 

Patent  Yeast ' . .  136 

ALUM,  POTATOES,  &c 137 

METHOD    OF    MAKING   BAKERS' 
BREAD. 

The  Old  Method 141 

Modern  Method 142 

SUBSTITUTE  FOR  WHEAT-FLOUR 
BREAD. 

Bread  Corn 143 

Rice 145 

Potatoes 145 

Bread  made  of  Roots 147 


Ragwort 1 47 

Turnip  Bread 147 

Apple  Bread 148 

Meslin  Bread 148 

Salep  Bread 143 

Oat  and  Barley  Bread 148 

Debretzen  Bread 148 

Millet  Bread 149 

Maize  Bread 149 

Homminy  Cake 149 

Bean  Flour  Bread 149 

Buckwheat  Bread 149 

Acorn  Bread 150 

Oatmeal  Cakes 150 

Oatmeal  and  Pease  Bread  ....  150 

Chestnut  Bread 150 

Potatoe  Bread 150 

Rye  Bread — Barley  Bread 150 

The  Bread  Tree 151 

Bread  Fruit  Bread 152 

Sago  Bread . .  152 

Casava  Bread 153 

Plantain  Bread 1 53 

Banana  Bread 153 

Moss  Bread 154 

Dried  Fish  Bread )54 

Earth  Bread J54 


THE  CONFECTIONER. 


SECTION  r. — CONFECTIONARY:. 

As  SUGAR  is  the  basis  or  ground-work  of  the  confectioner's  art,  it  is 
essentially  necessary  that  the  practitioner  should  carefully  study  and 
observe  the  difference  in  its  qualities,  the  changes  which  it  undergoes 
or  effects  when  combined  with  other  articles  in  the  process  of  manu- 
facture, and  also  the  different  forms  which  it  assumes  by  itself  at  va- 
rious stages.  Without  this  knowledge,  a  man  will  never  become  a 
thorough  and  efficient  workman,  and  it  can  only  be  acquired  by  prac- 
tice and  experience. 

The  first  process  which  it  undergoes  in  the  hands  of  the  confec- 
tioner, is  that  of  clarification.  It  is  conducted  on  the  same  principle 
as  the  refining  of  sugar,  although  not  carried  out  in  every  particular. 

Clarification  of  Raw  Sugar. — For  every  six  pounds  of  sugar  re- 
quired to  be  clarified,  take  one  quart  of  water,  the  white  of  an  egg, 
and  about  half  a  teacupful  of  bullock's  blood.  Less  than  a  pint  will 
be  sufficient  for  112  pounds;  but  if  a  very  fine,  transparent,  and 
colourless  syrup  is  required,  use  either  charcoal,  finely  powdered,  or 
ivory  black,  instead  of  the  blood.  Put  the  white  of  the  egg  in  the 
water  and  whisk  it  to  a  froth,  then  add  either  of  the  other  articles 
mentioned,  and  the  sugar,  place  the  pan  containing  the  ingredients 
on  the  stove-fire,  and  stir  them  well  with  a  spatula,  until  the  sugar  is 
dissolved,  and  is  nearly  boiling.  When  the  ebullition  commences, 
throw  in  a  little  cold  water  to  check  it;  this  causes  the  coarser  parts 
to  separate  more  freely,  by  which  means  the  whole  of  the  impurities 
attach  themselves  to  the  clarifying  matter  used ;  continue  this  for 
about  five  minutes,  using  about  one  pint  of  water  to  every  six  pounds 
of  sugar,  or  more,  until  you  consider  the  whole  of  the  dross  is  dis- 
charged, and  there  remains  a  fine  clear  syrup.  Then  place  it  by  the 
side  of  the  stove,  and  carefully  remove  with  a  skimmer  the  scum 
which  has  formed  on  the  top:  it  may  also  be  taken  off  as  it  rise?,  but 
1  find  the  best  method  is  to  let  it  remain  a  short  time  after  it  is  clari 
fied  before  it  is  removed,  otherwise,  if  you  take  it  off  as  it  rises,  part 
of  the  syrup  is  also  taken  with  it.  When  either  charcoal  or  black  is 
used,  it  must  be  passed  through  a  filtering-bag  made  of  thick  flannel, 
in  the  shape  of  a  cone,  having  a  hoop  fastened  round  the  top  to  keep 
it  extended,  and  to  which  strings  are  sewn  that  it  may  be  tied  or  sus- 
pended in  any  convenient  manner:  what  runs  out  at  first  will  be 
2  13 


14  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

quite  black;  return  this  again  into  the  bag,  and  continue  doing  so 
until  it  runs  fine  and  clear. 

If  a  little  lime,  about  a  spoonful,  or  any  other  alkali  is  added  to  the 
sugar  with  the  water,  &c.,  it  will  neutralize  the  acid  which  all  raw 
sugars  contain,  and  they  will  be  found  to  stand  much  better  after  they 
have  been  manufactured,  by  not  taking  the  damp  so  soon.  This  is 
not  generally  done  by  the  trade,  but  it  will  be  found  beneficial  if 
practised. 

To  clarify  Loaf  Sugar. — This  is  clarified  by  mixing  the  whites  of 
eggs  with  water,  without  any  other  assistance,  for  having  been  pre- 
viously refined,  it  does  not  require  those  auxiliaries  again  to  separate 
the  coarser  parts,  unless  it  is  of  an  inferior  quality,  or  an  extra  fine 
syrup,  as  for  bon-bons  and  other  fancy  articles,  is  required.  When  it 
is  necessary  to  have  a  very  fine  sparkling  grain,  in  that  case  break 
your  lump  into  email  pieces  and  put  it  in  a  preserving-pan,  with  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  water  to  dissolve  it,  in  which  has  been  mixrd 
the  while  of  an  egg  and  powdered  charcoal,*  as  for  raw  sugar,  fol- 
lowing those  instructions  already  given.  After  the  sugar  has  bem 
drained  from  the  bag,  pass  some  water  through  to  take  off  any  which 
may  be  left  in  the  charcoal,  which  you  use  for  dissolving  more  sugar. 

The  scum  should  always  be  reserved,  when  charcoal  or  black  is  not 
used,  to  mix  with  the  articles  of  an  inferior  quality. 

The  best  refined  loaf  sugar  should  be  white,  dry,  fine,  of  a  brilliant 
sparkling  appearance  when  broken,  and  as  close  in  texture  as  pos- 
sible. The  best  sort  of  brown  has  a  bright,  sparkling,  and  gravelly 
look.  East  India  sugars  appear  finer,  but  do  not  contain  so  much  sac- 
charine matter,  yet  they  are  much  used  for  manufacturing  the  best 
sort  of  common  sweetmeats,  when  clarified,  instead  of  loaf  sugar. 

Degrees  of  boiling  Sugar. — This  is  the  principal  point  to  which  the 
confectioner  has  to  direct  his  attention;  for  if  he  is  not  expert  in  this 
particular,  all  his  other  labour  and  knowledge  will  be  useless:  it  is 

*  Charcoal  varies  in  its  qualities,  according  to  the  wood  from  which 
it  is  prepared.  That  made  from  porous  woods,  such  as  the  willoAv, 
alder,  &c.,  is  the  best  for  clarifying  liquids ;  animal  charcoal,  or  bone 
black,  is  also  equally  good,  on  account  of  its  light  and  porous  nature ; 
that  made  from  hard  woods  is  only  fit  for  fuel,  as  it  does  not  possess  the 
clarifying  and  decolouring  properties  like  that  made  from  the  more  soft 
and  porous  woods.  When  newly  prepared,  or  if  it  has  been  kept  free  from 
air,  it  has  the  property  of  absorbing  all  putrid  gases ;  "  it  is  also  capable 
of  destroying  the  smell  and  taste  of  a  variety  of  animal  and  vegetable 
substances,  especially  of  mucilages,  oils,  and  of  matter  in  which  extrac- 
tive abounds ;  and  some  articles  are  said  to  be  even  deprived  of  their 
characteristic  odour,  by  remaining  in  contact  with  it,  as  vak-rian,  galba- 
num,  balsam  of  Peru,  and  musk.  The  use  of  charring  the  interior  of 
water-casks,  and  of  wrapping  charcoal  in  cloths  that  have  acquired  a  bad 
smell,  depend  upon  this  property.  None  of  the  fluid  menstrua  with  which 
we  are  acquainted  have  any  action  whatever,  as  solvents,  upon  carbon."-— 
Paris'*  Pharmacologia. 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  15 

the  foundation  on  which  he  must  build  to  acquire  success  in  his  under- 
takings. 

There  are  seven  essential  points  or  degrees  in  boiling  sugar;  some 
authors  give  thirteen,  but  many  of  these  are  useless,  and  serve  only 
to  show  a  critical  precision  in  the  art,  without  its  being  required  in 
practice;  however,  for  exactness,  we  will  admit  of  nine,  viz:--l. 
Small  thread.  2.  Large  thread.  3.  Little  pearl.  4.  Large  pearl. 
f>  Thp  blow.  6.  The  feather.  7.  Ball.  8.  Crack.  9.  Caramel. 
This  last  degree  derives  its  name  from  "a  Count  Albufage  Caramel, 
of  Nismop,  who  discovered  this  method  of  boiling  sugar." — Guntet's 
Confectioner. 

In  describing  the  process,  I  shall  proceed  in  a  different  manner  to 
other  writers  on  the  subject,  by  classing  it  under  different  heads,  ac- 
cording to  the  uses  to  which  it  is  applied. 

SYRUP. 

Under  this  head  are  comprised  the  degrees  from  the  small  thread 
to  the  large  pearl  ;  for  at  these  points  the  sugar  is  kept  in  a  divided 
state,  arid  remains  a  fluid  of  an  oily  consistency.  A  bottle  which 
holds  three  ounces  of  water  will  contain  four  ounces  of  syrup.  The 
method  of  ascertaining  those  degrees,  according  to  the  usages  of  the 
trade,  is  as  follows: — 

Small  Thread. — Having  placed  the  clarified  syrup  on  the  fire,  let 
it  boil  a  little,  then  dip  the  top  of  your  finger  in  the  boiling  syrup, 
and  on  taking  it  out  apply  it  to  the  top  of  your  thumb,  when,  if  it  has 
attained  the  degree,  on  separating  them  a  small  ring  will  be  drawn 
out  a  little  distance,  about  as  fine  as  a  hair,  which  will  break  and  re- 
solve itself  into  a  drop  on  the  thumb  and  finger. 

Large  Thread. — Continue  the  boiling  a  little  longer,  repeat,  the 
same  operation  as  before,  and  a  larger  string  will  be  drawn. 

Little  Pearl. — To  ascertain  this  degree,  separate  the  finger  from 
the  thumb  as  before,  and  a  large  string  may  be  drawn,  which  will 
extend  to  nearly  the  distance  the  fingers  may  be  opened. 

Large  Pearl. — The  finger  may  now  be  separated  from  the  thumb 
to  the  greatest  extent  before  the  thread  will  break. 

CRYSTALLIZATION. 

This  takes  the  degrees  of  the  blow  and  feather.  The  particles  of 
the  sugar  being  now  brought  together  within  the  sphere  of  their 
activity,  the  attraction  of  cohesion  commences,  whereby  they  attach 
themselves  together  and  form  quadrilateral  pyramids  with  oblong  and 
rectangular  bases.  This  is  generally,  but  improperly,  termed  candy, 
thereby  confounding  it  with  the  degrees  at  which  it  grains,  also 
termed  candy.  This  certainly  seems  "  confusion  worse  confounded  ;" 
but  if  things  are  called  by  their  proper  names,  many  of  those  seem- 
ing difficulties  and  technicalities  may  he  avoided  which  tend  only  to 
confuse  and  embarrass  the  young  practitioner,  without  gaining  any 


16  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

desired  end  or  purpose.  If  it  were  generally  classed  into  the  degrees 
of  crystallization,  the  true  meaning  and  use  would  at  once  be  ex- 
plained and  understood  by  the  greatest  novice. 

The  nature  and  principle  of  this  operation  are  these.  First,  as  in  the 
case  of  syrup  (the  first  four  degrees),  when  the  water  has  absorbed  as 
much  sugar  as  it  is  capable  of  containing  in  a  cold  state,  by  continu- 
ing the  boiling,  a  further  portion  of  the  solvent  (water)  is  evaporated, 
and  sugar  remains  in  excess,  which,  when  exposed  to  a  Jess  degree 
of  heat,  separates  itself,  and  forms  crystals  on  the  surface  and  sides 
of  the  vessel  in  which  it  is  contained,  and  also  on  anything  placed  or 
suspended  in  it.  But  if  it  is  exposed  too  suddenly  to  the  cold,  or  dis- 
turbed in  its  action  by  being  shaken,  or  if  the  boiling  has  been  con- 
tinued too  long,  the  crystals  will  form  irregularly  by  the  particles 
being  brought  in  too^  close  contact,  and  run  too  hastily  together,  form- 
ing a  mass  or  lump. 

To  obtain  this  part  in  perfection,  the  boiling  should  be  gradual,  and 
continued  no  longer  than  till  a  few  drops  let  fall  on  a  cold  surface 
show  a  crystalline  appearance,  or  after  being  removed  from  the  fire 
a  thin  skin  will  form  on  the  surface.  It  should  then  be  taken  from 
the  fire  and  placed  in  a  less  hot  but  not  cold  place,  and  covered  or 
put  into  a  stove  or  hot  closet  to  prevent  the  access  of  cold  air.  A 
few  drops  of  spirits  of  wine,  added  when  the  sugar  has  attained  the 
proper  degree,  will  conduce  to  a  more  perfect  crystalline  form,  scarcely 
attainable  by  any  other  means,  as  it  has  a  great  affinity  with  the  water, 
thereby  causing  the  sugar  to  separate  itself  more  freely.  It  must  be 
used  with  caution,  as  too  much  will  cause  it  to  grain. 

To  ascertain  the  Degree  of  the  Blow. — Continue  the  boiling  of 
the  sugar,  dip  a  skimmer  in  it  and  shake  it  over  the  pan,  then  blow 
through  the  holes,  and  if  small  bubbles  or  air-bladders  are  seen  on 
the  other  side,  it  has  acquired  this  degree. 

The  Feather. — Dip  the  skimmer  again  into  the  sugar,  and  blow 
through  the  holes  as  before,  and  the  bubbles  will  appear  larger  and 
stronger.  Or  if  you  give  the  skimmer  a  sudden  jerk,  so  as  to  throw 
the  sugar  from  you,  when  it  has  acquired  the  degree,  it  will  appear 
hanging  from  the  skimmer  in  fine  long  strings. 

CANDY. 

Sugar,  after  it  has  passed  the  degree  of  the  feather,  is  of  itself 
naturally  inclined  to  grain,  that  is  to  candy,  and  will  form  a  powder 
if  agitated  or  stirred  :  for  as  the  boiling  is  continued,  so  is  the  water 
evaporated  until  there  is  nothing  left  to  hold  it  in  solution :  therefore 
that  body  being  destroyed  by  heat,  which  first  changed  its  original 
form  to  those  we  have  already  enumerated,  as  this  no  longer  exists 
with  it,  it  naturally  returns  to  the  same  state  as  it  was  before  the 
solvent  was  added,  which  is  that  of  minute  crystals  or  grains,  being 
held  together  by  the  attraction  of  cohesion,  unless,  as  before  stated, 
they  are  separated  by  stirring,  &c. 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  17 

The  sugar  being  evaporated  by  boiling  from  the  last  degree,  leaves 
a  tnin  crust  of  crystals  round  the  sides  of  the  pan,  which  shows  it  has 
attained  the  candy  height;  and  this  crust  must  be  carefully  removed, 
as  it  forms,  with  a  damp  cloth  or  sponge,  or  the  whole  mass  will 
candy  if  suffered  to  remain.  To  prevent  this  is  the  chief  deside- 
ratum, all  further  proceedings  for  which  specific  rules  will  be  given 
in  their  proper  places. 

The  remaining  degrees  can  be  ascertained  after  the  following  man- 
ner:— 

The  Ball — Provide  a  jug  of  clean  cold  water,  and  a  piece  of 
round  stick.  First  dip  in  the  water,  then  in  the  sugar,  and  again  in 
the  water  ;*  take  off  the  sugar  which  has  adhered  to  it,  and  endea* 
vour  to  roll  it  into  a  ball  between  the  finger  and  thumb  in  the  water: 
when  this  can  be  done,  it  has  attained  the  desired  degree.  If  it  forms 
u  large  hard  ball  which  will  bite  hard  and  adhere  to  the  teeth  when 
r'at^n,  it  is  then  termed  the  large  ball,  et  contra. 

The  Crack. — Follow  the  directions  given  for  the  ball.  Slip  the 
su^-ar  off  from  the  stick,  still  holding  it  in  the  water,  then  press  it 
between  the  finger  and  thumb;  if  it  breaks  short  and  crisp,  with  a 
slight  noise,  it  is  at  the  crack. 

Caramel. — To  obtain  this  degree  it  requires  care  and  attention, 
and  also  to  be  frequently  tried,  as  it  passes  speedily  from  the  crack  to 
the  caramel.  Try  it  as  before  directed,  and  let  the  water  be  quite 
cold,  or  you  will  be  deceived.  If  on  taking  it  off  the  stick  it  snaps 
like  glass,  with  a  loud  noise,  it  has  attained  the  proper  degree ;  it  will 
also,  when  it  arrives  at  this  point,  assume  a  beautiful  yellow  colour; 
after  this  it  will  speedily  burn,  taking  all  the  hues  from  a  brown  to  a 
black;  therefore,  to  prevent  this,  dip  the  bottom  of  the  pan  into  a 
pail  of  cold  water  as  soon  as  it  comes  to  caramel,  as  the  heat  which 
is  contained  in  the  pan  and  sugar  is  sufficient  to  advance  it  one  de- 
gree; also  be  careful  that  the  flame  of  the  fire  does  not  ascend  round 
the  sides  of  the  pan,  which  will  burn  it. 

In  boiling  sugar,  keep  the  top  of  the  pan  partially  covered  from  the 
time  it  commences  boiling  until  it  has  attained  the  ball  or  crack:  the 
steam  which  rises,  bein.^  again  thrown  on  the  sides,  prevents  the 
formation  of  the  crust  or  .crystals. 

To  prevent  its  graining,  add  a  little  of  any  sort  of  acid  when  it  is 
at  the  crack — a  table-spoonful  of  common  vinegar,  four  or  five  drops 
of  lemon-juice,  or  two  or  three  drops  of  pyroligneous  acid  :  any  of 
these  will  have  the  desired  effect;  this  is  termed  greasing  it:  but 
remember  that  too  much  acid  will  also  grain  it,  neither  can  it  be 
boiled  to  caramel  if  there  is  too  much.  A  little  butter  added  when 
it  first  commences  boiling  will  keep  it  from  rising  over  the  pan,  and 
also  prevent  its  graining.  About  as  much  cream  of  tartar  as  may  be 
laid  on  a  sixpence,  and  added  to  seven  pounds  of  sugar  with  the  water, 
or  equal  quantities  of  cream  (if  tartar  and  alum  in  powder,  added  when 

*  This  should  be  performed  as  speedily  as  possible. 
2* 


18  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

it  boils,  will  also  keep  it  from  candying.  If  sugar  is  poured  on  a 
stab  that  is  too  hot  it  is  very  apt  to  grain;  this  is  frequently  the  case 
after  several  casts  have  been  worked  off  in  rotation ;  therefore,  when 
you  find  it  inclined  to  turn,  remove  it  to  a  cooler  spot,  if  possible,  and 
not  handle  it  any  more  than  is  necessary. 

Sugar  that  has  been  often  boiled  or  warmed  is  soon  acted  upon  by 
the  atmosphere,  whereby  it  becomes  clammy  and  soon  runs,  as  it  is 
weakened  by  the  action  of  the  fire.  Acid  causes  the  same  effect. 

If  it  has  passed  the  degree  you  intended  to  boil  it  at,  add  a  little 
water,  and  give  it  another  boil. 


SECTION  II. SYRUPS. 

THESE  are  either  the  juices  of  fruits,  or  a  decoction  or  infusion  of 
the  leaves,  flowers,  or  roots  of  vegetables,  impregnated  with  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  sugar  for  their  preservation  and  retaining  them  in  a 
liquid  state. 

A  great  portion  of  this  class  comes  more  under  the  notice  of  the 
apothecary  than  the  confectioner;  but  it  may  now  be  considered,  with 
lozenges,  as  a  branch  of  pharmacy  in  the  hands  of  the  latter,  the 
most  agreeable  of  which  are  now  manufactured  by  him  to  supply  the 
place  of  fresh  fruits,  &c.,  when  out  of  season,  for  the  making  of  cool- 
ing drinks,  ices,  &c.,  for  balls  and  routs. 

General  Rules  and  Observations. —  Two  things  are  essentially 
necessary  to  be  observed,  which  are: — the  proper  methods  of  making 
decoctions  and  infusions.  These  require  some  knowledge  of  the 
nature  and  properties  of  vegetable  matter. 

The  virtues  of  most  plants  are  extracted  by  infusion,  and  this  is 
generally  the  case  with  aromatic  plants,  and  those  whose  proper- 
ties depend  on  an  essential  oil ;  for,  in  boiling,  the  whole  of  the 
aroma  of  the  plant  is  dispersed,  and  the  syrup  loses  that  delicate 
flavour  for  which  it  is  prized. 

Aromatic  herbs,  and  the  leaves  of  plants  in  general,  yield  their 
virtues  most  perfectly  when  moderately  dried.  Cold  water  extracts 
from  these  in  a  few  hours,  the  lighter,  more  fragrant  and  agreeable 
parts,  and  then  begins  to  take  up  the  more  ungrateful  and  grosser. 
By  pouring  the  same  liquor  on  fresh  parcels  of  the  herb,  it  becomes 
stronger,  richer,  thicker,  and  balsamic. 

Those  only  should  be  decocted  whose  principles  consist  of  muci- 
lage, gum,  or  resin,  and  require  boiling  to  extract  them. 

The  compact  resinous  woods,  roots  and  barks,  yield  their  virtues 
most  freely  while  fresh.  Dry,  they  yield  little  to  cold  or  moderately 
warm  water,  and  require  it  to  be  boiling.  By  this  process  the  grosser, 
more  fixed  saline  and  mucilaginous  parts  are  dissolved,  the  resinous 
melted  out,  and  the  volatile  dissipated. 

Infusions.  — "  These  are  watery  solutions  of  vegetable  matter, 
pbtained  by  maceration,  either  in  hot  or  cold  water,  with  the  assist- 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  19 

ance  of  ebullition.      In  selecting  and  conducting  the  operation,  the 
following  general  rules  should  be  observed : — 

"1st.  Infusion  should  always  be  preferred  before  decoction,  where 
the  virtues  of  the  vegetable  substance  reside  in  volatile  oil,  or  in 
principles  which  are  easily  soluble ;  whereas,  if  they  depend  upon 
resino-mucilaginous  particles,  decoction  is  an  indispensible  operation. 

"  2nd.  The  temperature  employed  must  be  varied  according  to  the 
circumstances  of  each  case,  and  infusion  made  with  cold  is  in  general 
more  grateful  but  less  active  than  one  made  with  heat. 

"  3rd.  The  duration  of  the  process  must  likewise  be  regulated  by 
the  nature  of  the  substances  ;  for  the  infusion  will  differ  according  to 
the  time  in  which  the  water  has  been  digested  on  the  materials  ;  thus 
the  arorna  of  the  plaut  is  first  taken  up,  then  in  succession  the  colour- 
ing, astringent,  and  gummy  parts. 

Decoctions. — "  These  are  solutions  of  the  active  principles  of  vege- 
tables, obtained  by  boiling  them  in  water. 

"  1st.  Those  principles  only  should  be  decocted  whose  virtues  re- 
side in  principles  which  are  soluble  in  water. 

"  2nd.  If  the  active  principle  be  volatile,  decoction  must  be  an  in- 
jurious process;  and  if  it  consists  of  extractive  matter,  long  boiling, 
by  favouring  its  oxidizement,  will  render  it  insipid,  insoluble,  and 
inert. 

"3rd.  The  substances  to  be  decocted  should  be  previously  bruised 
or  sliced,  so  as  to  expose  an  extended  surface  to  the  action  of  the 
water. 

"  4th.  The  substances  should  be  completely  covered  with  water, 
and  the  vessel  slightly  closed,  in  order  to  prevent  as  much  as  possi- 
ble the  access  of  air;  the  boiling  should  be  continued  without  inter- 
ruption, and  gently. 

"5th.  In  compound  decoctions,  it  is  sometimes  convenient  not.  to 
put  in  all  the  ingredients  from  the  beginning,  but  in  succession,  ac- 
cording to  their  hardness,  and  the  difficulty  with  which  their  virtues 
are  extracted;  and  if  any  aromatic  or  other  substances  containing 
volatile  principles,  or  oxidizable  matter,  enter  into  the  composition, 
the  boiling  decoction  should  be  simply  poured  upon  them,  and  covered 
up  until  cold. 

"  6th.  The  relative  proportions  of  different  vegetable  substances 
to  the  water  must  be  regulated  by  their  nature.  The  following 
general  rule  may  be  admitted.  Of  roots,  barks,  or  dried  woods,  from 
two  drachms  to  six  to  every  pint  of  water:  of  herbs,  or  flowers,  half 
that  quantity  will  suffice. 

"  7th.  The  decoction  ought  to  be  filtered  through  linen  while  hot, 
as  important  portions  of  the  dissolved  matter  are  frequently  deposited 
on  cooling ;  care  must  also  be  taken  that  the  filter  is  not  too  fine,  for 
it  frequently  happens  that  the  virtues  of  a  decoction  depend  upon  the 
presence  of  particles  in  a  miuutely  divided  state."  —  Paris's  Phar- 
macologia. 

All  acid  syrups  ought  to  have  their  full  quantity  of  sugar,  so  as  to 


20  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

Dring  them  to  a  consistence  without  boiling1,  because  the  very  action 
of  much  heat  destroys  their  acidity,  and  makes  thorn  liable  to  candy  ; 
and  this  more  particularly  holds  good  where  the  infusion  or  juice,  &c., 
has  any  (Vagrancy  in  flavour,  because  the  volatile  oil  is  dissipated  by 
boiling.  The  same  observation  is  also  applicable  to  those  infusions 
of  llowers  which  give  out  their  colour,  and  which  is  necessary  to  be 
retained,  such  as  violets,  pinks,  &c.,  as  boiling  injures  them. 

Those  syrups  which  are  made  from  decoctions,  and  do  not  take  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  sugar  to  bring  them  to  a  due  consistence  with- 
out boiling,  require  to  be  clarified  so  as  to  render  them  transparent; 
but  this  is  often  an  injury,  as  the  whites  of  eggs  take  off  some  of  their 
chief  properties  with  the  scum;  therefore,  the  decoction  should  first 
be  rendered  clear  by  settling  or  filtering,  and  the  sugar  should  be 
clarified  and  boiled  to  the  height  of  the  feather  or  bail  before  the 
decoction  is  added,  when  it  must  be  reduced  to  the  proper  degree. 

The  best  and  most  general  method  of  making  syrups  is  to  add  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  the  finest  loaf-sugar,  in  powder,  with  the  juice 
or  infusion,  &c.,  stirring  it  well  until  a  small  portion  settles  at  the 
bottom,  then  place  the  pan  in  a  larger  one  containing  water  ;  this  is 
termed  the  bain-rnarie ;  put  it  on  the  fire,  and  the  heat  of  the  water 
as  it  boils  will  dissolve  the  sugar;  when  this  has  been  thoroughly 
effected,  take  it  off  and  U;t  it  cool ;  if  more  sugar  is  added  than  the 
quantity  above  named,  it  will  separate  in  crystals,  and  not  leave  suffi- 
cient remaining  in  the  syrup  for  its  preservation.  (See  observations 
on  Sugar- boil  ing).  When  cold,  put  it  into  small  bottles,  fill  them, 
cork  closely,  and  keep  in  a  dry  cool  place.  Be  particularly  careful 
that  no  tinned  articles  are  used  in  the  making  of  syrups  from  the  jnice 
of  red  fruits,  as  it  will  act  on  the  tin  and  change  the  colour  to  a  dead 
blue. 

Raspberry  Syrup. — One  pint  of  juice,  two  pounds  of  sugar. 
Choose  the  fruit  either  red  or  white,  mash  it  in  a  pan,  and  put  it  in  a 
warm  place  for  two  or  three  days,  or  until  the  fermentation  has  com- 
menced. All  mucilaginous  fruits  require  this,  or  else  it  would  jelly 
after  it  is  bottled.  Filter  the  juice  through  a  flannel  bag,  add  the 
sugar  in  powder,  place  in  the  bain-marie,  and  stir  it  until  dissolved ; 
take  it  off,  let  it  get  cold,  take  off' the  scum,  and  bottle  it. 

[Pine-apple  Syrup. — Take  one  and  a  half  pints  of  syrup  boiled  to 
the  ball,  add  to  this,  one  pint  of  the  juice  of  the  best  Havanna  pine- 
apples; let  it  then  come  to  a  boil,  remove  the  scum,  and  bottle 
when  cool.] 

Raspberry  Vinegar  Syrup. — One  pint  of  juice,  two  pints  of  apple 
vinegar,  four  pounds  and  a  half  of  sugar.  Prepare  the  juice  as  before, 
adding  the  vinegar  with  it,  using  white  vinegar  with  white  rasp- 
berries; strain  the  juice  and  boil  to  the  pearl. 

Three  pounds  of  raspberries,  two  pints  of  vinegar,  throe  pounds  of 
sugar.  Put  the  raspberries  into  the  vinega'r  without  mashing  them, 
cover  the  pan  close,  and  let  it  remain  in  a  cellar  for  seven  or  eitrht. 
days :  then  filter  the  infusion,  add  the  sugar  in  powder,  and  finish  in 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  21 

the  bain-marie.  This  is  superior  to  the  first,  as  the  beautiful  aroma 
of  the  fruit  is  lost,  in  the  boiling,  as  may  be  well  known  by  its  scenting 
the  place  where  it  is  done,  or  even  the  whole  house ;  the  fruit  may 
ak-o  be  afterwards  used  with  more  for  raspberry  cakes. 

[Str&wberry  Syrup. — Make  as  pine-apple ;  taking  care  to  strain 
carefully  at  least  twice,  through  a  tine  flannel  bag,  so  as  to  remove 
entirely  all  sediment,  and  the  small  seed  of  the  fruit.] 

Currant  Syrup. — One  pint  of  juice,  two  pounds  of  sugar.  Mix 
together  three  pounds  of  currants,  half  white  and  half  red,  one  pound 
of  raspberries,  and  one  pound  of  cherries,  without  the  stones;  mash 
the  fruit  and  let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place  for  three  or  four  days, 
keeping  it  covered  with  a  coarse  cloth,  or  piece  of  paper  with  holes 
pricked  in  it  to  keep  out  any  dust  or  dirt.  Filter  the  juice,  add  the 
sugar  in  powder,  finish  in  the  bain-marie,  and  skim  it.  When  cold, 
put  it  into  bottles,  fill  them,  and  cork  well. 

Morello  Cherry  Syrup. — Take  the  stones  out  of  the  cherries,  mash 
them,  and  press  out  the  juice  in  an  earthen  pan ;  let  it  stand  in  a  cool 
place  for  two  days,  then  filter;  add  two  pounds  of  sugar  to  one  pint 
of  juice,  finish  in  the  bain-marie,  or  stir  it  well  on  the  fire,  and  give 
it  one  or  two  boils. 

Mulberry  Syrup. — One  pint  of  juice,  one  pound  twelve  ounces  of 
sugar.  Press  out  the  juice  and  finish  as  cherry  syrup. 

Gooseberry  Syrup. — One  pint  of  juice,  one  pound  twelve  ounces 
of  sugar.  To  twelve  pounds  of  ripe  gooseberries  add  two  pounds  of 
cherries  without  stones,  squeeze  out  the  juice,  and  finish  as  others. 

Lemon  Syrup. — One  pint  and  a  quarter  of  juice,  two  pounds  of 
sugar.  Let  the  juice  stand  in  a  cool  place  to  settle.  When  a  thin 
skin  is  formed  on  the  top,  pour  it  off  and  filter,  add  the  sugar,  and 
finish  in  the  bain-marie.  If  the  flavour  of  the  peel  is  preferred  with 
it,  grate  off  the  yellow  rind  of  the  lemons  and  mix  it  with  the  juice 
to  infuse,  or  rub  it  off  on  part  of  the  sugar  and  add  it  with  the  re- 
mainder when  you  finish  it. 

Orange  Syrup. — As  lemon  syrup. 

Orange-Flower  Syrup. — Picked  orange  flowers  one  pound,  sugar 
three  pounds.  Take  one  half  of  the  sugar  and  make  a  syrup,  which 
boil  to  the  large  pearl,  put  the  flowers  in  a  basin  or  jar,  and  pour  the 
syrup  on  them  boiling  hot,  cover  the  jar  or  basin  quite  close  and  let 
them  infuse  in  it  for  five  or  six  hours,  then  drain  off  the  syrup,  boil 
the  remaining  portion  of  sugar,  and  pour  over  them  as  before;  when 
cold,  strain  and  bottle. 

Sirop  de  Capillaire. — Syrup  of  Maidenhair. — There  are  sevrral 
sorts  of  Maidenhair,  but  the  best  is  that  of  Canada,  which  has  a 
pleasant  smell  joined  to  its  pectoral  qualities.  The  true  Maiden- 
hair— Capillus  Veneris  —  is  a  native  of  Italy  and  of  the  southern 
parts  of  France.  It  has  an  agreeable  but  very  weak  smell.  Common 
or  English  Maidenhair — Trichomanes — is  usually  substituted  for  the 
true,  and  occasionally  for  the  Canadian.  Its  leaves  consist  of  small 
round  divisions,  growing  as  it  were  in  pairs.  It  grows  on  rocks,  old 


2'2  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

walls,  and  shady  banks,  and  should  be  gathered  in  September. 
Black  Maidenhair — Adianthum  Nigrurn. — has  smooth  and  shining 
leaves,  the  middle  rib  being  black,  and  the  seeds  are  all  spread  on  the 
back  of  the  leaf.  It  grows  on  shady  banks,  and  on  the  roots  of  trees. 
White  Maidenhair — Wall  Rue — Tent  Wort — Ruta  Murana  Salvia 
Vilte. — The  1  en  VPS  of  this  are  shaped  something  like  rue,  and  covered 
;ill  over  the  back  with  a  small  seed-like  dust.  Golden  Maidenhair — 
Muscns  Capillaris — grows  in  moist  places,  and  the  pedicle  arises 
from  the  top  of  the  stalk.  I  have  given  these  particulars,  because  I 
find  they  are  often  substituted  one  for  the  other  by  persons  who  are 
not  aware  that  there  is  any  difference.  Although  all  of  them  have 
nearly  the  same  qualities,  only  two  have  a  volatile  oil,  but  they  aro 
all  mucilaginous. 

Canada  capillaire  two  ounces,  sugar  two  pounds.  Chop  the 
capillaire  into  small  bits,  and  make  as  orange-flower  syrup.  By  this 
method  the  oil  is  not  allowed  to  escape,  which  being  exceedingly 
odoriferous  and  volatile,  is  soon  dissipated  if  boiled  ;  or  make  a  cold 
infusion  (See  Infusions)  of  the  plant  by  putting  one  quart  of  water  to 
tour  ounces  of  capillaire,  add  four  pounds  of  sugar,  and  finish  in  the 
bain-marie,  adding  one  ounce  of  orange-flower  water.*  [This  is  a 
fashionable  and  delicate  syrup,  but  is  rarely  obtained  genuine.] 

Simple  Fyrup,  flavoured  with  orange-flower  water,  is  usually  sub- 
stituted for  it. 

Syrup  of  Liquorice. — Liquorice-root  two  ounces,  white  maidenhair 
one  ounce,  hyssop  half  an  ounce,  boiling  water  three  pints;  slice  the 
root  and  cut  the  herbs  small,  infuse  in  the  water  for  twenty-four 
hours,  strain  and  add  sufficient  sugar,  or  part  sugar  and  honey,  to 
make  a  syrup;  boil  to  the  large  pearl.  An  excellent  pectoral. 

Syrup  of  Violets. — One  pound  of  violet  flowers,  one  quart  of  water, 
four  pounds  of  sugar.  Put  the  flowers  cleared  from  their  stalks  and 
calx,  into  a  glazed  earthen  pan  ;  pour  on  the  water  boiling  hot,  and 
stop  the  pan  quite  close;  let  it  remain  in  a  warm  place  for  a  day, 
then  strain  off"  the  infusion  through  a  thin  cloth  ;  add  the  sugar,  and 
place  in  the  bain-marie:  stir  it  well  and  heat  it  until  you  can  scarcely 
bear  your  finger  in  it;  then  take  it  off,  and  when  cold,  bottle.  A 
laxative.  This  syrup  is  often  adulterated  by  bring  made  with  the 
flowers  of  hearts-ease,  or  columbine  scented  with  orrice-root,  and 
coloured. 

Syrup  of  Pinks. — Clove  pinks,  one  pound  eight  ounces,  water 
two  pints  and  a  half,  sugar,  three  pounds.  Let  the  flowers  be  fre.-;h 
gathered,  cut  off  the  white  points  of  the  petals  and  weigh  them. 
Finish  as  syrup  of  violets.  This  syrup  may  be  made  with  a  cold  in- 

*The  pectoral  quality  of  this  syrup — for  it  is  often  sold  for  such  pur- 
poses  in  shops — would  be  much  improved  if  made  with  the  addition  of 
liquorice-root,  as  ordered  by  the  Pharmacopeias — "  Five  ounces  of  ca- 
pillaire, two  ounces  of  liquorice-root,  six  pints  of  water ;  white  sugar  a 
sufficient  quantity  ;  two  ounces  of  orange-flower  water." 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  23 

fusion  of  the  flowers,  first  pounding1  them  with  a  little  water  in  a 
marble  mortar.  Finish  as  before.  If  the  flowers  of  the  clove  pink 
cannot  be  obtained,  use  other  pinks,  adding  a  few  cloves  to  infusor 
with  them,  so  as  to  give  the  flavour. 

Syrup  of  Roses. —  The  dried  leaves  of  Provence  roses  eight 
ounces,  double  rose  leaves  six  onnces,  water  one  quart,  sugar  four 
pounds.  Pour  the  water  on  the  leaves  when  nearly  boiling,  into  a 
glazed  earthen  vessel,  cover  it  quite  close,  and  let  it.  remain  in  a 
warm  place  for  a  day ;  then  strain  and  finish  as  violets.  The  leaves 
of  the  damask  rose  are  purgative. 

Syrup  of  Wormwood. — There  are  three  sorts  of  wormwood   most 

fenerally  known, — the  common,  sea,  and  Roman.  The  first  may  be 
istinguished  by  its  broad  leaves  which  are  divided  into  roundish 
segments,  of  a  dull  green  colour  above,  and  whitish  underneath;  iu 
taste  is  an  intense  and  disagreeable  bitter.  The  sea  wormwood  has 
smaller  leaves  and  hoary  both  above  and  underneath ;  it  grows  in 
salt  marshes,  and  about  the  sea  coasts;  the  smell  and  taste  are  not 
BO  strong  and  disagreeable  as  the  common.  The  Roman  differs  from 
the  others  by  the  plant  being  smaller  in  all  its  parts  ;  the  leaves  are 
divided  into  fine  filaments  and  hoary  all  over,  the  stalk  being  either 
entirely  or  in  part  of  a  purple  colour.  Its  smell  is  pleasant,  and  the 
bitterness  not  disagreeable :  it  is  cultivated  in  gardens.  The  sea 
wormwood  is  generally  substituted  for  it. 

The  tops  of  Roman  wormwood  two  ounces,  water  one  pint,  sugar 
two  pounds.  Make  an  infusion  of  the  leaves  in  warm  water,  strain, 
add  the  sugar  to  the  infusion,  and  boil  to  the  pearl.  If  the  common 
wormwood  only  can  be  obtained,  put  the  tops  into  three  times  the 
above  quantity  of  water,  and  boil  it  over  a  strong  fire  until  reduced 
to  a  pint.  This  will  deprive  it  of  part  of  its  bitterness  and  disagree- 
able smell. 

Syrup  of  Marshmallows — Sirop  de  Guimauve. — Fresh  mallow 
roots  eight  ounces,  water  one  quart,  sugar  three  pounds.  Cleanse 
the  roots,  and  slice  them;  make  a  decoction  (See  Decoctions),  boiling 
it  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  so  as  to  obtain  the  mucilage  of  the  root; 
strain,  and  finish  as  wormwood.  One  ounce  of  liquorice-root  and  one 
ounce  of  white  maidenhair,  with  a  few  stoned  raisins,  may  bo  added. 
[Syrup  ofSarsaparilla.—Ua\f&  pound  of  bruised  sarsaparilla  root, 
two  ounces  of  ground  orange  peel,  one  ounce  liquorice-root,  sassafras 
bark  bruised,  two  ounces,  one  gallon  of  water;  boil  to  half  a  gallon, 
strain;  to  each  pint  of  liquor  add  one  pound  of  sugar;  put  on  the  fire 
till  it  boils,  and  take  off  the  scum  which  arises.] 

Syrup  of  Coltsfoot. — Fresh  Coltsfoot  flowers  one  pound  eight 
ounces,  water  one  quart,  sugar  three  pounds.  Pick  the  flowers  about 
February,  and  make  an  infusion  of  them  with  hot  water;  strain,  and 
finish  as  wormwood  syrup.  Two  or  three  handfuls  of  the  leaves  may 
be  pounded  and  infused  instead  of  the  flowers. 

Syrup  of  Ginger.— Ginger  two  ounces,  water  one  pint,  sugar  two 
pounds. 


24  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

Slice  the  root  if  fresh,  or  bruise  it  if  dried;  pour  the  water  on  it 
boiling",  and  let  it  macerate  in  a  warm  place  for  a  day,  then  strain, 
and  boil  to  the  pearl. 

[Another. — A  better  flavoured  and  a  richer  ginger  syrup  is  made 
in  the  following  manner. — Take  any  quantity  of  scraped,  white,  Ja- 
maica ginger  and  infuse  for  several  days  in  good  spirits  of  wine; 
decant  the  clear  liquor  when  sufficiently  saturated  with  the  ginger, 
and  add  to  the  hot  sugar,  previously  boiled  to  the  ball  or  feather,  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  the  liquor  to  impart  to  the  syrup  the  agreeable 
aroma  of  the  ginger  root. 

The  spirit  will  be  rapidly  driven  off'  when  it  is  poured  into  the 
boiling  syrup,  and  a  bland  and  beautiful  syrup  will  be  the  result;  let 
it  cool,  and  bottle  immediately.] 

Syrup  of  Almonds  —  Strop  de  Orgeat.  —  One  pound  of  sweet 
almonds,  four  ounces  of  bitter  ones,  one  pint  and  a  half  of  water,  sugar 
three  pounds,  orange-flower  water  two  ounces. 

Blanch  the  almonds,  and  as  they  are  blanched  throw  them  into  cold 
water;  when  they  are  finished,  take  them  out  and  pound  them  in  a 
marble  mortar,  sprinkling  them  with  a  little  orange-flower  water  to 
prevent  their  oiling,  or  use  water  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  add 
sufficient  in  the  pounding  to  reduce  them  to  a  paste,  and  when  quite 
fine  add  half  a  pint  more  water;  mix,  and  strain  through  a  tamis 
cloth  twisted  tight  by  two  persons:  receive  the  milk  which  comes 
from  the  almonds  into  a  basin;  what  is  left  in  the  cloth  must  be 
pounded  again  with  some  of  the  water,  and  strained.  Continue  this 
until  the  whole  of  the  milk  is  obtained,  and  the  water,  is  consumed  ; 
then  clarify,  and  boil  the  sugar  to  the  crack;  add  the  milk  of 
almonds,  and  reduce  it  to  the  pearl ;  then  strain  it  again,  add  the 
orange-flower  water,  and  stir  it  well  until  nearly  cold  ;  when  cold, 
bottle ;  shake  the  bottles  well  for  several  succeeding  days,  if  you  see 
it  at  all  inclined  to  separate,  which  will  prevent  it. 

Sirop  de  Pistache  is  made  in  the  same  manner,  colouring  it  green 
with  a  little  spinach. 

Syrup  of  Cnff'ce.— Fresh  roasted  Mocha  coffee  two  pounds,  watei 
one  quart,  sugar  three  pounds  eight  ounces.     Grind  the  coffee  in 
mill,  and  make  a  cold  infusion  with  the  water  in  a  close  vessel ;  let 
it  stand  for  a  day,  then  filter  it  through  blotting  paper ;  add  the  sugar, 
and  finish  in  the  bain-rnarie. 

Syrup  of  Rum  Punch.— Jamaica  rum  one  quart,  the  juice  of  twelve 
or  fourteen  lemons,  sug^r  four  pounds.  Rub  off'  the  yellow  rind  of  half 
of  the  lemons  on  a  piece  of  the  sugar,  and  scrape  it  off'  with  a  knife 
into  a  basin  as  it  imbibes  the  oil;  clarify  and  boil  the  remaining  por- 
tion to  the  crack  ;  strain  the  juice  into  the  rum,  and  add  to  it  the 
su^ar  with  that  on  which  the  peels  were  rubbed  ;  mix  together,  and 
give  it  one  boil.  The  yellow  rind  of  the  peels  may  be  cut  oft' very 
thin,  and  infused  in  the  spirit  for  some  days  before  the  syrup  is  made 

Brandy  and  Wine  Syrups  may  be  made  in  the  same  manner. 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  25 

1 

SECTION  III. CRYSTALLIZED    SUGAR,  AND  ARTICLES  CRYSTAL- 
LIZED, COMMONLY  CALLED  CANDIES. 

Crystallized  or  Candied  Sugar. — Provide  a  round  mould,  smaller  at 
the  bottom  than  the  top,  of  any  size  you  may  think  proper,  made 
either  of  tin  or  copper,  with  holes  pierced  round  the  sides  about  three 
inches  asunder,  so  as  to  fasten  strings  across  in  regular  rows  from  the 
top  to  the  bottom,  leaving  sufficient  room  for  the  sugar  to  crystallize 
on  each  string  without  touching,  or  it  will  form  a  complete  mass ; 
paste  paper  round  the  outside  to  prevent  the  syrup  from  running 
through  the  holes.  Have  the  mould  prepared,  and  let  it  be  clean  and 
dry  ;  take  sufficient  clarified  syrup  to  fill  the  mould,  and  boil  it  to  the 
degree  of  crystallization  or  the  feather,  and  add  a  little  spirit  of  wine; 
remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  let  it  rest  until  a  thin  skin  is  formed  on 
the  surface,  which  you  must  carefully  remove  with  a  skimmer;  then 
pour  it  into  the  mould,  and  place  it  in  the  hot  closet,  where  you  let  it 
remain  undisturbed  for  eight  or  nine  days,  at  90  degrees  of  heat,  or 
half  that  time  ut  100 ;  then  make  a  hole,  and  drain  off  the  super- 
fluous sugar  into  a  pan  placed  below  to  receive  it;  let  it  drain  quite 
dry,  which  will  take  about  twelve  hours;  then  wash  off  the  paper 
from  the  mould  with  warm  water,  place  it  near  the  fire,  and  keep 
turning  it  to  warm  it  equally  all  round ;  then  turn  it  up  and  strike 
the  mould  rather  hard  upon  the  table,  when  the  sugar  will  relieve 
itself  and  come  out :  put  it  on  a  stand  or  sieve  in  the  closet,  raise  the 
heat  to  120  degrees,  and  let  it  remain  until  perfectly  dry;  Particular 
attention  should  be  paid  to  the  heat  of  the  closet,  which  must  be  kept 
regular  and  constant,  and  this  can  easily  be  accomplished  at  a  small 
expense  with  many  of  the  patent  stoves  which  are  now  in  general 
use,  and  also  without  causing  any  dust.  A  Fahrenheit's  or  Reaumur's 
thermometer  should  be  so  placed  that  the  heat  may  at  all  times  be 
ascertained. 

This  may  be  coloured  with  prepared  cochineal,  or  other  liquid 
colour,  or  by  grinding  any  particular  colour  with  the  spirits  of  wine, 
and  adding  it  to  the  syrup  before  it  comes  to  the  feather. 

fruits  to  Crystallize. — Have  a  square  or  round  tin  box,  smaller  at 
the  bottom  than  the  top,  with  wire  gratings  made  to  fit  at  convenient 
distances,  and  having  a  hole  with  a  tube  or  pipe  to  admit  a  cork,  and 
drain  off  the  syrup.  Take  "any  of  the  preserved  fruits  wet  (which 
see),  drain  from  them  the  syrup,  and  dip  them  in  lukewarm  water  to 
take  off  any  syrup  which  may  adhere  to  them ;  dry  them  in  the 
closet ;  when  dried,  place  them  in  layers  on  the  grating?,  side  by 
side,  so  as  not  to  touch  each  other;  continue  in  this  manner  with  any 
sort  of  fruit  until  the  box  is  full ;  then  fix  the  whole  with  a  weight, 
to  keep  it  steady.  Boil  a  sufficiency  of  clarified  sugar  to  fill  the  box 
to  the  degree  of  crystallization  or  the  blow,  add  a  little  spirit  of  wine, 
and  remove  it  from  the  fire.  When  a  thin  skin  has  formed  on  the  top, 
remove  it  carefully  with  a  skimmer,  and  pour  the  sugar  into  the 
3 


26  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

mould  ;  place  it  in  the  closet  at  90  degrees  of  heat,  and  let  it  remain 
for  twelve  hours,  then  drain  off  the  syrup  into  a  pan  from  the  tube  at 
bottom,  and  lot  it  remain  in  the  closet  until  quite  dry;  then  turn 
them  out  by  striking  the  box  hard  upon  the  table,  separate  them  care- 
fully,  and  put  them  in  boxes  with  paper  between  each  layer.  When 
different  fruits,  paste,  knots,  &c.,  are  mixed  together  indiscriminately, 
it  is  termed  rnille-fruit  candy.  Any  sort  of  fruit  or  gum  pastes,  when 
thoroughly  dried,  may  be  crystallized  in  the  same  manner.  When 
the  syrup  is  drained  off,  if  you  find  the  size  of  the  crystals  is  not  large 
enough,  another  lot  of  syrup  may  be  prepared  and  poured  over  it ; 
let  it  remain  in  the  closet  for  seven  or  eight  hours,  then  drain  and 
finish  as  before. 

If  small  pieces  of  stick  are  pushed  down  at  each  corner,  or  in  any 
other  vacancy,  when  you  fill  the  mould,  one  of  these  may  be  with- 
drawn at  any  time  you  may  wish  to  ascertain  the  size  of  the  crystals, 
which  will  save  the  trouble  of  giving  a  second  charge  of  sugar. 

Crystallized  Chocolate. — Prepare  some  sugar,  as  in  the  preceding 
articles,  and  pour  it  into  the  box.  When  a  thin  crust  is  formed  on  the 
top,  make  a  hole  on  one  side,  and  push  the  articles  previously  shaped 
with  chocolate,  as  for  drops,  gently  under  with  your  finger ;  put  them 
in  the  stove  to  crystallize,  as  other  articles.  After  the  syrup  is 
drained  off,  and  the  articles  dried,  they  must  remain  until  quite  cold 
before  being  turned  out,  as  the  chocolate  continues  soft  for  some 
time. 

Liqueur  Rings,  Drops,  and  other  Devices. — These  are  all  made 
after  the  same  manner.  A  square  box  is  necessary,  which  you  fill 
with  very  dry  starch  powder.  Sugar,  powdered  very  fine  and  dried, 
will  answer  the  same  purpose.  The  depth  of  the  box  should  be 
suited  to  the  articles  intended  to  be  made.  Shake  the  box,  or  pass  a 
knife  repeatedly  through  the  powder,  that  it  may  be  solid ;  smooth 
the  surface  with  a  straight  piece  of  wood;  have  a  thin  piece  of  flat 
board,  on  which  is  fastened  a  number  of  little  devices,  about  an  inch 
asunder,  and  to  suit  the  width  of  the  box ;  these  may  be  made  eithei 
of  lead,  plaster,  or  wood,  in  the  form  of  rings,  diamonds,  stars,  bot- 
tles, scissors,  harpp,  shoes,  or  any  other  form  your  fancy  may  suggest; 
make  the  impressions  in  the  powder  in  regular  rows,  until  thel>ox  is 
full ;  then  prepare  some  sugar  as  for  the  preceding  articles,  boiling  it 
to  the  blow,  and  flavouring  it  with  any  sort  of  spirit  or  liqueur,  such 
as  brandy,  rum,  noyau,  Maraschino,  cinnamon,  rosoiis,  &c.,  colouring 
the  syrup  accordingly.  It  should  be  prepared  in  a  pan  with  a  lip  to 
it.  When  a  thin  skin  has  formed  on  the  top,  place  a  cork  in  the  lip 
of  the  pan,  but  not  to  close  it,  allowing  a  space  for  the  sugar  to  run 
out,  the  cork  being  merely  to  keep  back  the  skin ;  then  fill  the  im- 
pressions you  made  in  the  powder  and  place  them  in  the  stove  at  90 
degrees;  let  them  remain  a  day,  then  take  them  out,  and  their  sur- 
faces will  be  found  quite  hard  and  solid  ;  brush  the  powder  from  them 
with  a  light  brush,  when  they  may  either  be  painted,  crystallized,  or 
piped.  Many  of  these  bon-bons  are  beautifully  piped  and  coloured  to 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  27 

represent  doers,  horses,  costumes,  and  theatrical  characters ;  the  fur 
on  the  robes  is  imitated  with  white  or  Coloured  sugar  in  coarse  grains, 
and  lace-work  is  done  by  means  of  a  pin. 

Liqueur  drops  are  mnde  with  the  impression  of  half  a  ball  to  any 
required  size,  or  other  forms.  If  the  flat  parts  of  two  are  moistened, 
put  ton-ether,  and  dried  in  the  stove,  they  will  form  drops  perfectly 
round. 

To  form  a  Chain  with  Liqueur  Rings. — Have  some  moulds  to  form 
the  impressions  in  powder,  as  in  the  preceding,  in  the  shape  of  the 
links  of  a  chain ;  fill  them  with  syrup  at  the  blow,  as  before,  and  put 
them  in  the  stove  for  a  day  ;  when  they  are  hard  and  fit  to  be  taken 
out,  place  them  on  their  ends  in  the  powder ;  have  another  mould  of 
a  link  in  two  halves,  and  with  this  form  the  impression  between  each 
of  the  others  so  as  to  make  it  complete;  then  fill  them,  and  finish  as 
before. 

SECTION    IV. CANDY BONBON CONSERVE. 

THK  articles  that  come  under  this  head  are  made  by  the  sugar 
being  brought  to  the  ball,  when  it  is  grained  by  rubbing  it  against  the 
sides  of  the  pan.  From  this  all  fancy  articles  are  made,  such  as  fruit, 
eggs,  cups,  vases,  &c. 

Ginger  Candy. — Take  clarified  syrup  and  boil  it  to  the  ball ;  flavour 
it  either  with  the  essence  of  ginger  or  the  root  in  powder ;  then  with 
a  spoon  or  spatula  rub  some  of  it  against  the  side  of  the  pan  until  you 
perceive  it  turn  white ;  pour  it  into  small  square  tins  with  edges,  or 
paper  cases,  which  have  been  oiled  or  buttered,  and  put  it  in  a  warm 
place,  or  on  a  hot  stone,  that  it  may  become  dappled.  The  eyrup 
should  be  coloured  yellow,  while  boiling,  with  a  little  saffron. 

Peppermint,  Lemon  and  Rose  Candy  are  made  after  the  same 
manner,  colouring  the  lemon  with  saffron,  and  the  rose  with 
cochineal. 

Coltsfoot  or  Horehound  Candy.  —  Make  a  strong  infusion  of  the 
herbs,  (See  Infusions  under  the  head  of  Syrups,)  and  use  it  for  dis- 
solving the  sugar,  instead  of  taking  syrup;  raw  sugar  is?  mostly  used 
for  those  candies.  Boil  it  to  the  ball,  grain  it  and  finish  as  ginger 
candy. 

Artificial  Fruit,  Eggs,  fyc. — Prepare  moulds  with  piaster  of  Paris 
from  the  natural  objects  you  wish  to  represent;  make  them  in  two, 
three,  or  more  pieces,  so  as  to  relieve  freely,  and  have  a  hole  at  one 
end  into  which  the  sugar  may  be  poured  ;  let  them  be  made  so  as 
each  part  may  be  fitted  together  exactly  ;  and  for  this  purpose  make 
two  or  three  round  or  square  indentions  on  the  edge  of  one  part,  so 
that  the  corresponding  piece  when  cast,  will  form  the  counterpart, 
which  may  at  all  times  be  fitted  with  precision.  Let  the  object  you 
would  take  the  cast  from  be  placed  in  a  frame  made  either  of  wood 
or  of  stiff  paper,  embed  a  part  of  it  in  fine  sand,  soft  pipe-clay,  or 


28  THE    CONFECTIONED. 

modelling  wax,  leaving  as  much  of  the  mould  exposed  as  you  wish  to 
form  at  one  time,  and  oil  it  with  sweet  oil ;  mix  some  of  the  prepared 
plaster  with  water,  to  the  consistency  of  thick  cream,  and  pour  over 
it;  when  this  is  set,  proceed  with  the  other  portions  in  the  same 
manner  until  it  is  complete.  Let  them  dry  and  harden  for  use. 

Take  a  sufficient  quantity  of  syrup,  (clarified  with  charcoal  or 
animal  black)  to  fill  the  mould,  and  boil  it  to  the  small  ball ;  rub 
some  of  it  against  the  side  to  grain  it ;  when  it  turns  white,  pour  it 
into  the  moulds:  take  them  out  when  set,  and  put  them  into  the 
stove  at.  a  moderate  heat  to  dry.  The  moulds  must  be  soaked  for  an 
hour  or  two  in  cold  water  previously  to  their  being  used,  which  will 
be  found  better  than  oiling  them,  as  it  keeps  the  sugar  delicately 
white,  which  oil  does  not.  Colour  your  articles  according  to  nature 
with  liquid  colours  (see  Colours)  and  camel's-hair  pencils,  or  the  usual 
pigments  sold  in  boxes  may  be  used.  If  a  gloss  is  required,  the 
colours  should  be  mixed  with  a  strong  solution  of  gum  Arabic  or 
isinglass,  to  the  desired  tint.  Eggs  and  fruit  may  be  made  as  light 
and  apparently  as  perfect  as  nature,  by  having  moulds  to  open  in  two, 
without  any  orifice  for  filling  them.  Fill  one  half  with  the  grained 
sugar,  immediately  close  the  mould,  and  turn  it  round  briskly  that  it 
may  be  covered  all  over  equally.  To  accomplish  this,  it  is  necessary 
to  have  an  assistant  that  it  may  be  done  as  speedily  as  possible. 

Burnt  Jlhnonds. — Take  some  fine  Valencia  or  Jordan  almonds,  and 
sift  all  the  dust,  from  them  ;  put  a  pint  of  clarified  syrup  into  the  pan  for 
each  pound  of  almonds,  and  place  it  with  the  almonds  on  the  fire;  boil  to 
the  ball,  then  take  it  off  and  stir  the  mixture  well  with  a  spatula  that 
the  sugar  may  grain  and  become  almost  a  powder,  whilst  each  almond 
has  a  coating.  Put  them  into  a  coarse  wire  or  cane  sieve,  and  sift  all  the 
loose  sugar  from  them,  and  also  separate  those  which  stick  together. 
When  cold,  boil  some  more  clarified  syrup  to  the  feather,  put  in  the 
almonds,  give  them  two  or  three  boils  in  it,  take  them  from  the  fire,  and 
stir  them  with  the  spatula  as  before,  until  the  sugar  grains;  sift  and 
separate  them,  and  keep  them  in  glasses  or  boxes.  A  third  coat  may  be 
given  them  in  the  same  manner  as  the  second,  if  they  are  required 
large. 

Burnt  Jllmonds — Red. — The  same  as  the  last,  using  prepared  cochi- 
neal to  colour  the  syrup  whilst  it  is  boiling. 

Filberts  and  Pistachios. — These  are  done  the  same  as  burnt  almonds, 
but  they  are  usually  denominated  prawlings,  the  nuts  being  only  put 
into  the  sugar  for  two  or  three  minutes  before  it  is  taken  from  the 
fire,  and  stirred. 

Common  Burnt  Jllmonds.  —  These  are  made  with  raw  sugar  and 
skimmings,  if  you  have  any.  Put  some  water  with  the  sugar  to  dis- 
solve it;  when  it  is  near  boiling,  add  the  almonds,  and  let  them  boil 
in  it  until  it  comes  to  the  small  ball ;  or  when  the  almonds  crack,  take 
them  from  the  fire,  and  stir  them  with  a  spatula  until  the  sugar  grains 
and  becomes  nearly  a  powder ;  put  them  into  a  sieve,  and  separate 
the  lumps. 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  29 

Orange  Prawlings. — Take  four  or  five  Havanna  oranges,  and  cut 
off  the  peel  in  quarters,  or  small  lengths;  take  off  all  the  pith  or 
white  part  of  the  peel,  leaving  only  the  yellow  rinds,  and  cut  in  small 
pieces,  about  an  inch  long,  and  the  size  of  pins.  Have  about  a  pint 
of  clarified  sugar  boiling  on  the  fire;  when  it  comes  to  the  blow,  put 
in  the  pieces  of  peel,  and  let  them  boil  until  the  sugar  attains  the 
small  ball;  take  them  off,  and  stir  them  with  the  spatula  until  the 
sugar  grains  and  hangs  about  them;  sift  off  the  loose  sugar;  when 
cold,  separate  and  keep  them  in  a  dry  place. 

Lemon  Prawlings. — As  orange. 


SECTION    V. CRACK    AND    CARAMEL. 

THESE  comprehend  all  articles  in  sugar-boiling  which  eat  short  and 
crisp.  They  are  used  for  all  sorts  of  ornamental  sugar-work.  The 
rules  and  observations  already  laid  down  under  this  head  must  be  par- 
ticularly noted,  especially  those  for  greasing  the  sugar  so  as  to  prevent 
its  graining. 

Barley  Sugar. — Boil  some  clarified  loaf  sugar  to  the  crack  or  cara- 
mel degree,  using  a  little  acid  to  prevent  its  graining:  pour  it  out  on 
a  marble  slab,  which  has  been  previously  oiled  or  buttered.  Four 
pieces  of  iron,  or  small  square  bars,  are  usually  employed  to  form  a 
sort  of  bay  to  prevent  the  sugar  running  off  the  stone,  which  is  neces- 
sary in  large  casts.  When  the  edges  get  set  a  little,  remove  the 
bars,  and  torn  them  over  into  the  centre.  This  is  occasionally  fla- 
voured with  lemons.  When  it  is  required,  pour  a  few  drops  of  the 
essential  oil  of  lemons  in  the  centre,  before  the  edges  are  folded  over, 
then  cut  it  into  narrow  strips  with  a  large  pair  of  scissors  or  sheep- 
shears.  When  nearly  cold,  twist  them,  put  them  into  glasses  or  tin 
boxes,  and  keep  them  closed  to  prevent  the  access  of  air.  It  is  sel- 
dom boiled  higher  than  the  crack,  and  saffron  is  used  to  make  it  the 
colour  of  caramel. 

This  derives  the  name  of  barley  sugar  from  its  being  originally 
made  with  a  decoction  of  barley,  as  a  demulcent  in  coughs,  for  which 
it  is  now  most  generally  used. 

Barley  Sugar  Drops. — Boil  some  sugar  as  for  the  preceding.  Spread 
some  finely  powdered  and  sifted  loaf  sugar  on  a  table  or  tea-tray, 
with  a  piece  of  stick,  round  at  the  end  similar  to  the  half  of  a  ball; 
make  several  holes,  into  which  you  run  the  sugar  from  a  lipped  pan, 
or  it  may  be  dropped  on  an  oiled  marble  slab  with  a  funnel,  letting 
only  one  drop  fall  at  a  time;  or  from  the  lip  pan,  separating  each 
drop  with  a  small  knife,  or  a  straight  piece  of  small  wire;  take  them 
off  the  stone  with  a  knife,  mix  them  with  powdered  loaf  sugar,  sift 
them  from  it,  and  keep  in  glasses  or  tin  boxes. 

Barley  Sugar  Tablets  or  Kisses..— Spread  some  sugar,  as  for  the 
last;  have  a  piece  of  wood  about  an  inch  and  a  half  thick,  with  the 
3* 


30  THE    CONFF.CTIONFK. 

surface  divided  into  small  squares,  each  being  about  an  inch,  and  half 
an  inch  in  depth ;  with  this  form  the  impressions  in  the  sugar,  and 
fill  them  with  sugar  boiled  as  for  drops,  flavouring  it  with  essence  of 
lemon ;  or  instead  of  this  it  may  be  poured  out  in  a  sheet  on  an  oiled 
marble  slab,  as  for  barley  sugar,  and  when  nearly  cold  divide  it  into 
pieces  with  a  tin  frame,  having  small  square  divisions,  when  the  whole 
sheet  may  be  divided  at  once  by  pressing  hard  on  it  so  as  to  cut  it 
nearly  through.  When  cold,  separate  them  and  mix  them  with 
powdered  sugar,  take  them  out  and  fold  them  separately  in  fancy  or 
coloured  papers,  with  a  motto  on  each.  They  are  also  occasionally 
made  into  balls  thus: — First  cast  the  sugar  in  a  sheet  on  an  oiled 
marble  slab ;  when  the  edges  are  set,  fold  them  in  the  middle,  then 
oil  a  small  square  tin  with  edges  to  it,  put  the  sugar  in  this,  and 
place  it  under  the  fire-place  of  the  stove  so  as  to  keep  warm ;  cut  off 
a  piece  and  roll  it  into  a  pipe,  then  cut  it  into  small  pieces  with  a  pair 
of  shears,  and  let  your  assistant  roll  it  into  small  balls  under  his  hand 
on  a  sand-stone;  marble  is  too  smooth  for  this  purpose.  Many  lads 
who  are  used  to  it  can  turn  eight  or  ten  under  each  hand  at  one  time. 
When  they  are  finished,  put  them  into  powdered  sugar,  wrap  them 
in  fancy  papers,  fringed  at  the  ends,  put  a  motto  in  each,  and  fasten 
them  with  small  bands  of  gold  paper.  Sometimes  a  cracker  is  folded 
up  in  each,  which  is  made  with  two  narrow  strips  of  stiff  paper,  a 
small  piece  of  sand  or  glass  paper  is  pasted  on  the  end  of  each,  and 
these  are  placed  over  each  other  with  a  little  fulminating  powder  be- 
tween, a  piece  of  thin  paper  is  bound  round  it,  and  pasted  to  keep 
them  together;  when  these  are  pulled  asunder,  the  two  rough  sur- 
faces meeting  cause  the  powder  to  explode,  and  out  flies  the  ball  of 
sugar  with  the  motto.  This  innocent  amusement  often  causes  much 
mirth  in  a  companj'. 

Acid  Drops  and  Sticks. — Boil  clarified  sugar  to  the  crack,  and 
pour  it  on  an  oiled  marble  stone:  pound  some  tartaric  or  citric  acid 
to  a  fine  powder,  and  strew  over  it  about  a  half  or  three  quarters 
of  an  ounce  of  the  former,  according  to  its  quality,  and  less  of  the 
latter,  to  seven  pounds  of  sugar ;  turn  the  edges  over  into  the  mid- 
dle, and  mix  the  acid  by  folding  it  over,  or  by  working  it  in  a  similar 
manner  as  dough  is  moulded,  but  do  not  pull  it ;  put,  it  in  a  tin  rubbed 
over  with  oil  or  butter,  and  place  it  under  the  stove  to  keep  warm; 
then  cut  off  a  small  piece  at  a  time,  and  roll  it  into  a  round  pipe  ; 
cut  them  off  in  small  pieces  the  size  of  drops,  with  shears,  and  let 
your  assistant  roll  them  round  under  his  hand,  and  flatten  them.  Mix 
them  with  powdered  sugar,  sift  them  from  it,  and  keep  them  in  boxes 
or  glasses. 

When  flavoured  with  lemon,  they  are  called  lemon-acid  drops, — 
with  otto  of  roses,  rose-acid  drops.  The  sticks  are  made  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  drops,  without  being  cut  into  small  pieces. 

To  extract  the  Acid  from  Candied  Drops,  <fyc. — All  the  articles 
which  have  acid  mixed  with  them  are  extremely  liable  to  grain,  when 
they  are  useless  for  any  purpose  whatever,  except,  to  .sell  for  broken 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  31 

pieces,  as  they  cannot  be  boiled  again  unless  the  acid  is  extracted 
The  method  of  doing  this  is  at  present  not  generally  known  in  the 
trade,  and  it  is  kept  by  many  that  are  in  possession  of  it  as  a  great 
secret.  A  sovereign  is  often  paid  for  this  recipe  alone.  However 
groat  the  secret  may  be  considered,  it  is  only  returning  to  the  first 
principle  in  the  manufacture  of  sugar.  When  the  juice  is  expressed 
from  the  canes,  it  contains  a  considerable  quantity  of  oxalic  acid, 
which  must  be  destroyed  before  it  will  granulate  into  sugar:  for  this 
purpose  lime  is  employed,  which  has  the  desired  effect;  so  will  it  also 
in  this  case,  but  chalk  or  whitening  is  most  generally  used.  Firet 
dissolve  your  acid  sugar  in  water  ;  when  this  is  thoroughly  accomplish- 
ed, mix  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  either  of  these  alkalies  in  powder 
to  cause  a  strong  effervescence ;  after  it  has  subsided,  pass  it  through 
a  flannel  bag,  according  to  the  directions  for  clarifying  sugar.  The 
filtered  syrup  will  be  fit  to  use  for  any  purpose,  and  may  be  boiled 
again  to  the  crack  or  caramel  degrees  as  well  as  if  no  acid  had  ever 
been  mixed  with  it.  Let  the  pan  it  is  dissolved  in  be  capable  of  con- 
taining as  much  again  as  there  is  in  it,  or  the  effervescence  will  flow 
over. 

Raspberry  Candy. — This  may  either  be  made  from  raw  or  refined 
sugar.  Boil  it  to  the  crack,  and  colour  it  with  cochineal ;  pour  it  on 
a  stone  rubbed  over  with  a  little  oil  or  butter,  cut  off  a  small  piece, 
and  keep  it  warm  to  stripe  or  case  the  other  part,  when  finished;  to 
the  remainder  add  a  little  tartaric  acid  (not  so  much  as  for  drops), 
and  some  raspberry-paste,  sufficient  to  flavour  it.  The  residue  of 
raspberries  used  for  making  vinegar,  and  preserved  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  sugar,  or  even  less,  as  for  raspberry  cakes,  does  very  well 
for  this  purpose.  Fold  the  edges  over  into  the  centre,  and  attach  it 
to  a  hook  fixed  against  the  wall:  pull  it  towards  you,  throwing  it  on 
the  hook  each  time  after  having  pulled  it  out;  continue  doing  this 
until  it  gets  rather  white  and  shining,  then  make  it  into  a  compact 
long  roll,  and  either  stripe  it  with  the  piece  you  cut  off,  or  roll  it  out 
in  a  sheet  with  a  rolling-pin,  and  wrap  it  round  it  so  as  to  form  a  sort 
of  case;  then  pull  it  into  long  narrow  sticks,  and  cut  them  the  required 
length. 

Clove,  Ginger,  or  Peppermint  Candy. — These  are  all  made  in  the 
same  way  as  raspberry,  using  the  essential  oil  of  each  for  flavour. 
For  clove,  the  mixture,  whilst  boiling,  is  coloured  with  cochineal ; 
ginger  with  saffron  ;  but  the  peppermint  must  be  kept  perfectly 
white,  except  the  stripes,  which  is  done  by  cutting  off  as  many  pieces 
from  the  bulk  as  you  have  colours,  which  should  be  in  powder ;  put  a 
sufficiency  in  each  piece  to  give  the  desired  tint,  and  keep  them 
warm.  When  the  remaining  portion  of  the  sugar  is  pulled,  lay  them 
over  the  surface  in  narrow  stripes,  double  the  roll  together,  and  the 
face  each  way  will  be  alike.  Pull  them  out  into  long  sticks,  and 
twist  them ;  make  them  round  by  rolling  them  under  the  hand,  or 
they  may  be  cut  into  small  pieces  with  a  pair  of  shears  or  scissors. 

Brandy  Halls,  <fr. — These  are  made  from  loaf  sugar,  boiled  to  .he 


82  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

crack,  and  coloured  either  with  cochineal  or  saffron,  and  finished  in 
the  same  way  as  acidulated  drops,  without  being  flattened. 

No  vat. — Two  pounds  of  sweet  almonds,  one  pound  of  sugar,  one 
pound  of  water.  Blanch  the  almonds,  and  cut  them  in  slices,  dry 
them  at  the  mouth  of  a  cool  oven,  and  if  slightly  browned  the  better; 
powder  the  sugar,  and  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  with  the  water;  place 
it  on  the  fire  to  melt,  stirring  it  with  a  spatula  until  it  becomes  a  fine 
brown,  then  mix  in  the  almonds,  and  let  them  be  well  covered  with 
the  sugar;  pour  it  out  on  an  oiled  marble  stone.  It  may  be  made 
into  a  thick  or  thin  sheet,  and  cut  with  a  knife  into  small  pieces,  such 
as  dice,  diamonds,  &c.  The  surface  may  be  strewed  with  currants, 
fillets  of  pistachios,  or  coarse  sugar,  and  cut  into  different  forms  with 
tin  cutters.  It  may  also  be  formed  into  baskets,  vases,  &c.  Oil  the 
interior  of  a  mould,  and  spread  the  nogat  over  it,  whilst  warm,  as 
thin  and  even  as  possible.  To  save  the  fingers  from  being  burnt,  it 
may  be  spread  with  a  lemon.  Detach  it  from  the  mould  when  warm, 
and  let  it  remain  until  cold  that  it  may  retain  its  shape  perfectly,  then 
fasten  the  different  parts  together  with  caramel  sugar.  For  baskets, 
a  handle  of  spun  sugar  may  be  placed  over  it,  or  ornamented  with  it 
according  to  fancy.  These  may  be  filled  with  whipped  or  other 
creams  when  required  to  be  served. 

Jllmond  Rock. — This  is  a  similar  production  to  nogat,  and  is  made 
with  raw  sugar,  which  is  boiled  to  the  crack.  Pour  it  on  an  oiled 
stone,  and  fill  it  with  sweet  almonds,  either  blanched  or  not;  the 
almonds  are  mixed  with  the  sugar  by  working  them  into  it  with  the 
hands,  in  a  similar  manner  as  you  would  mix  anything  into  a  piece 
of  dough.  If  they  were  stirred  into  the  sugar  in  the  pan  it  would 
grain,  which  is  the  reason  why  it  is  melted  for  nogat.  Form  the  rock 
into  a  ball  or  roll,  and  make  it  into  a  sheet,  about  two  inches  thick, 
by  rolling  it  with  a  rolling-pin.  The  top  may  be  divided  into  diamonds 
or  squares  by  means  of  a  long  knife  or  piece  of  iron:  when  it  is 
nearly  cold  cut  it  into  long1  narrow  pieces  with  a  strong  knife  and 
hammer. 

Almond  Hardbake. — Oil  a  square  or  round  tin  with  low  edges; 
split  some  almonds  in  half,  put  them  in  rows  over  the  bottom,  with 
the  split  side  downward,  until  the  surface  is  covered  ;  boil  some  raw 
sugar  to  the  crack,  and  pour  it  over  them  so  as  to  cover  the  whole 
with  a  thin  sheet  of  sugar.  Cocoa  nut,  cut  in  thin  slices,  currant, 
and  other  similar  candies,  are  made  as  the  hardbake,  except  that  the 
sugar  is  grained  before  it  is  poured  over. 

ON    SUGAR-SPINNING. 

To  attain  proficiency  in  this  part,  it  requires  much  practice,  and 
also  a  good  taste  for  design,  and  to  be  expert  in  the  boiling  of  sugar, 
taking  particular  care  to  avoid  its  graining.  Baskets,  temples,  vases, 
fountains,  &c.,  are  made  by  these  means.  It  may  almost  be  termed 
the  climax  of  the  art.  The  moulds  for  this  purpose  may  be  made 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  38 

either  of  copper  or  tin,  so  as  to  deliver  well.  Let  them  be  slightly 
rubbed  all  over,  on  the  part  you  intend  to  spin  the  sugar,  with  butter 
or  oil. 

Boil  clarified  syrup  to  the  degree  of  caramel,  taking  care  to  keep 
the  sides  of  the  pad  free  from  sugar.  The  moment  it  is  at  the  crack, 
add  a  little  acid  to  grease  it  (see  Sugar  Boiling).  When  it  has  at- 
tained the  required  degree,  dip  the  bottom  of  the  pan  into  cold  water, 
take  it  out,  and  let  it  cool  a  little;  then  take  a  common  table-spoon, 
dip  it  in  the  sugar,  holding  the  mould  in  your  left  hand,  and  from  the 
spoon  run  the  sugar  over  the  mould,  either  inside  or  out,  with  the 
threads  which  flow  from  it,  which  may  be  either  fine  or  coarse,  ac- 
cording to  the  state  of  the  sugar;  if  they  are  required  very  coarse, 
pass  the  hand  over  them  two  or  three  times;  for  when  it  is  hot  it 
flows  in  finer  strings  than  it  will  when  cooler ;  form  it  on  the  mould 
into  a  sort  of  trellis-work ;  loosen  it  from  the  mould  carefully,  and  let 
it  remain  until  quite  cold  before  it  is  taken  off,  that  it  may  retain  its 
shape.  When  the  sugar  gets  too  cold  to  flow  from  the  spoon,  place 
it  by  the  side  of  the  stove  or  fire  to  melt.  Young  beginners  had  bet- 
ter draw  their  designs  for  handles  of  baskets,  &c.,  on  a  stone  with  a 
pencil  before  it  is  oiled,  and  then  spin  the  sugar  over  them. 

To  make  a  Silver  Web. — Boil  clarified  syrup  to  the  crack,  using  the 
same  precautions  as  before  observed,  giving  it  a  few  boils  after  the 
ncid  is  added ;  dip  the  bottom  of  the  pan  in  water  and  let  the  sugar 
cool  a  little;  then  take  the  handle  of  a  spoon,  or  two  forks  tied  to- 
gether, dip  it  into  the  sugar,  and  form  it  either  on  the  inside  or  out- 
side of  a  mould,  with  very  fine  strings,  by  passing  the  hand  quickly 
backwards  and  forwards,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  fall  in  drops, 
which  would  spoil  the  appearance  of  the  work.  With  this  may  be 
represented  the  hair  of  a  helmet,  the  water  of  a  fountain,  &c.  Tako 
a  fork,  or  an  iron  skewer,  and  hold  it  in  your  left  hand  as  high  as  you 
can,  dip  the  spoon  in  the  sugar,  and  with  the  right  hand  throw  it  over 
the  skewer,  when  it  will  hang  from  it  in  very  fine  threads  of  con- 
siderable length. 

To  make  a  Gold  Web. — Boil  syrup  to  caramel  height,  colouring  it 
with  saffron,  and  form  it  as  directed  for  the  last.  It  canvbe  folded  up 
to  form  bands  or  rings,  &c.  Fasten  it  to  the  other  decorations  with 
caramel. 

If  any  of  the  strings  or  threads  of  sugar  should  pass  over  those 
parts  where  they  are  not  required,  so  as  to  spoil  the  other  decorations 
in  the  making  of  baskets  or  other  ornaments,  it  may  be  removed  with 
a  hot  knife  without  breaking  or  injuring  the  pieco. 

Chantilly  Baskets. — Prepare  some  ratafias,  let  them  be  rather  small, 
and  as  near  of  a  size  as  possible;  boil  some  sugar  to  the  caramel  de- 
gree, rub  over  the  inside  of  a  mould  slightly  with  oil,  dip  the  edge 
of  the  ratafias  in  sugar,  and  stick  them  together,  the  face  of  the  rata- 
fias being  towards  the  mould,  except  the  last  two  rows  on  the  top, 
which  should  be  reversed,  remembering  always  to  place  their  faces 


31  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

to  meet  the  eye  when  the  sugar  is  cold  ;  take  it  out,  and  join  the  bot- 
tom and  top  together  with  the  same  sugar;  make  a  handle  of  spun 
snorar,  and  plnce  over  it.  Some  sugar  may  be  spun  over  the  inside 
of  the  basket,  to  strengthen  it,  as  directed  for  webs.  Line  the  inside 
with  pieces  of  Savoy  or  sponge  cakes,  and  fill  it  with  custard  or  whip- 
ped cream,  ur  the  slices  of  cake  may  be  spread  with  raspberry  jam. 
Half  fill  it  with  boiled  custard,  then  put  in  a  few  Savoy  or  almond 
cakes,  soaked  in  wine,  and  cover  the  top  with  whipped  cream;  or  it 
may  be  filled  with  fancy  pastry,  or  meringues.  All  sorts  of  fancy 
cakes  may  be  made  into  baskets  or  ratafias. 

Grape,  Orange,  or  Cherry  Baskets. — These  are  made  similar  to  the 
last;  the  oranges  nre  carefully  peeled  and  divided  into  small  pieces, 
taking  off  the  pith.  Insert  a  small  piece  of  stick  or  whisk  in  the  end 
of  each,  dip  them  in  caramel,  and  form  them  on  the  inside  of  an  oiled 
mould.  Cherries  and  grapes  may  be  used  either  fresh,  or  preserved 
wet,  and  dru-d.  Dip  them  in  caramel,  and  form  them  as  oranges. 
Each  of  these,  or  nny  other  fruit,  after  being  dipped  in  caramel,  may 
be  laid  on  an  oiled  marble  slab  separately,  and  served  on  plates  in  a 
pyramid,  with  fancy  papers,  flowers,  &c.  The  baskets  are  finished 
as  Chants  !l-v  with  spun  sugar. 

Jtlmnnd  Baskets. — Blanch  some  fine  Jordan  almonds,  and  cut  them 
into  thin  slices,  and  colour  them  in  a  small  copper  pan  over  the  fire 
with  prepared  liquid  colour  (see  Colours).  Put  them  into  the  pan, 
and  pour  in  colour  sufficient  to  give  the  desired  tint;  rub  them  about 
in  the  pnn  with  your  hand  until  they  are  quite  dry :  form  them  as  for 
u  Chantilly  basket,  or  else  form  them  on  an  oiled  marble  slab,  and 
ypin  suiiar  over  them  on  each  side.  Afterwards  arrano-e  them  in 
a  mould,  or  build  them  to  any  design,  first  having  a  pattern  cut  out 
in  paper,  and  form  them  on  the  stone  from  it. 

Spanish  Candy. — Oil  a  quart  of  clarified  syrup  to  the  crack.  Have 
some  icing-  previously  prepared  as  for  cakes,  or  mix  some  fine  pow- 
dered loaf  sugar  with  the  white  of  an  egg  to  a  thick  consistency  as 
for  icing;  take  the  sugar  from  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  the  boiling  has 
gone  down  stir  in  a  spoonful  of  this  or  the  icing,  which  must  be  done 
very  quickly,  without  stopping.  Let  it  rise  once  and  fall ;  the  second 
time  it  rises,  pour  it  out  in  a  mould  or  paper  case,  and  cover  it  with 
the  pan  to  prevent  its  falling.  Some  persons  pour  it  out  the  first  time 
it  rises,  and  immediately  cover  it  as  before.  It  may  be  made  good 
both  ways.  If  it  is  required  coloured,  add  the  colouring  to  the  syrup 
whilst  it  is  boiling, or  with  the  icing,  adding  more  eu»ar  to  give  it  the 
same  stiffness  as  before. 

Vases  or  Baskets,  ^*c.,  in  Spanish  Candy. — Prepare  .some  plaster 
moulds,  as  for  grained  sugar;  soak  them  in  water  before  you  use 
them;  prepare  some  sugar  as  for  the  last,  and  fill  thp  moulds.  When 
finished  they  may  be  ornamented  with  gurn-paste,  piping,  or  gold- 
paper  borders.  Fill  them  with  flowers,  meringues,  fancy  pastry, 
caramel,  fruits,  &c.  They  may  also  be  made  in  copper  or  tin  moulds, 
by  first  oiling  them  before  they  are  filled. 


THE    CONFECTIONER. 


SECTION    VI.  -  CHOCOLATE. 

Cacao  Nuts.  —  The  cocoa  or  cacao  nut,  of  which  chocolate  is  made, 
is  the  seed  of  I  he  fruit  of  a  tree  common  in  South  America  and  the 
West  Indies.  The  seeds  of  the  nuts,  which  are  nearly  of  the  shape 
of  an  almond,  are  found  to  the  number  of  from  thirty  to  forty  in  a 
pod.  The  pods  are  oval,  resembling  a  cucumber  in  shape.  The  dif- 
ferent sorts  are  distinguished  by  name,  according  to  the  places  which 
produce  them,  thus,  —  the  cacao  of  Cayenne,  Caraccas,  Berbice,  and 
the  islands  of  St..  Magdalen  and  Domingo.  These  all  differ  in  the 
size  of  their  almonds  or  seed,  quality  and  taste.  The  most  esteemed 
is  the  large  Caraccas,  the  almond  of  which,  though  somewhat  flat, 
resembles  the  shape  of  a  large  bean.  The  next  are  those  of  St.  Mag- 
dalen and  Berbice.  The  seeds  of  these  are  less  flat  than  those  of  the 
Caraccas  kind,  and  the  skin  is  covered  with  a  fine  ash-coloured  dust. 
The  others  are  very  crude  and  oily,  and  only  fit  to  make  the  butter 
of  cacao.  The  kernels,  when  fresh,  are  bitter,  and  are  deprived  of 
this  by  being  buried  in  the  ground  for  thirty  or  forty  days.  Good  nuts 
should  have  a  thin  brittle  skin,  of  a  dark  black  colour;  and  the  ker- 
nel, when  the  skin  is  taken  off,  should  appear  full  and  shining,  of  a 
dusky  colour,  with  a  reddish  shade.  Choose  the  freshest,  not  worm- 
eaten,  or  mouldy  on  the  inside,  which  it  is  subject  to  be. 

Equal  parts  of  the  cacao  of  Caraccas,  St.  Magdalen,  and  Berbice, 
mixed  together,  make  a  chocolate  of  first-rate  quality  ;  and  these  pro- 
portions give  to  it  that  rich  and  oily  taste  which  it  ought  to  have. 
That  made  from  the  cacao  of  Caraccas  only  is  too  dry,  and  that  from 
the  islands  too  fat  and  crude. 

Roasting.  —  Take  a  sufficient  quantity  of  nuts  to  cover  the  bottom 
of  an  iron  pot  two  or  three  inches  deep,  place  them  on  the  fire  to, 
roast,  stirring  them  constantly  with  the  spatula  that,  the  heat  may  be 
imparted  to  them  equally.  A  coffee-roasting  machine  would  answer 
for  this  purpose  admirably,  taking  care  not  to  torrefy  them  too  much, 
as  the  oil  of  the  nut  suffers  thereby,  and  it  becomes  a  dark  brown  or 
black,  grows  bitter,  and  spoils  the  colour  of  the  chocolate.  Musty  or 
mouldy  nuts  must  be  roasted  more  than  the  others,  so  as  to  deprive 
them  of  their  bad  taste  and  smell.  It  is  only  necessary  to  heat  them 
until  the  skin  will  separate  from  the  kernel  on  being  pressed  between 
the  fingers.  Remove  them  from  the  fire,  and  separate  the  skins.  If 
you  have  a  large  quantity,  this  may  be  accomplished  by  putting  them 
in  a  sieve  which  has  the  holes  rather  large,  but  not  so  much  as  to 
allow  the  nuts  to  pass  through;  then  squeeze  or  press  them  in  your 
hands,  and  the  skins  will  pass  through  the  rneshes  of  the  sieve;  or, 
after  being  separated  from  the  nuts,  they  may  be  got  rid  of  by  win- 
nowing or  fanning  them  in  a  similar  manner  to  corn.  When  they 
are  separated,  put  them  again  in  the  fire,  as  before  directed,  stirring 
them  constantly  until  warmed  through,  without  browning.  You  may 
know  when  they  are  heated  enough  by  the  outside  appearing  shiny  ; 


30  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

again  winnow,  to  separate  any  burnt  skin  which  may  have  escaped 
the  first  time. 

The  Making  of  Chocolate. — An  iron  pestle  and  mortar  is  requisite 
for  this  purpose,  also  a  stone  of  the  closest  grain  and  texture  which 
can  be  procured,  and  a  rolling-pin  made  of  the  same  material,  or  of 
iron.  The  stone  must  be  fixed  in  such  a  manner  that  it  may  be 
heated  from  below  with  a  pot  of  burning  charcoal,  or  something 
similar. 

Warm  the  mortar  and  pestle  by  placing  them  on  a  stove,  or  by 
means  of  charcoal,  until  they  are  so  hot  that  you  can  scarcely  bear 
your  hand  against  them.  Wipe  the  mortar  out  clean,  and  put  any 
convenient  quantity  of  your  prepared  nuts  in  it,  which  you  pound 
until  they  are  reduced  to  an  oily  paste  into  which  the  pestle  will  sink 
by  its  own  weight.  If  it  is  required  sweet,  add  about  one-half,  or 
two-thirds  of  its  weight  of  loaf  sugar  in  powder;  again  pound  it  so 
as  to  mix  it  well  together,  then  put  it  in  a  pan,  and  place  it  in  the 
stove  to  keep  warm.  Take  a  portion  of  it  arid  roll  or  grind  it  well  on 
the  slab  with  the  roller  (both  being  previously  heated  like  the  mor- 
tar) until  it  is  reduced  to  a  smooth  impalpable  paste,  which  will  melt 
in  the  mouth  like  butter.  When  this  is  accomplished,  put  it  in  another 
pan,  and  keep  it  warm  until  the  whole  is  similarly  disposed  of;  then 
place  it  again  on  the  stone,  which  must  not  be  quite  so  warm  as  pre- 
viously, work  it  over  again,  and  divide  it  into  pieces  of  two,  four, 
eight,  or  sixteen  ounces  each,  which  you  put  in  moulds.  Give  it  a 
shake,  and  the  chocolate  will  become  flat.  When  cold  it  will  easily 
turn  out. 

The  moulds  for  chocolate  may  either  be  made  of  tin  or  copper,  and 
of  different  devices,  such  as  men,  animals,  fish,  culinary  or  other  uten- 
sils, &c. ;  also  some  square  ones  for  half-pound  cakes,  having  divi- 
visions  on  the  bottom  which  are  relievoed.  These  cause  the  hollow 
impressions  on  the  cakes. 

The  Bayonne  or  Spanish  chocolate  is  in  general  the  most  esteemed. 
The  reason  of  its  superior  quality  is  attributed  by  some  to  the  hard- 
ness of  the  Pyrenean  stone  which  they  employ  in  making  it,  which 
does  not  absorb  the  oil  from  the  nuts.  They  do  not  use  any  pestle 
and  mortar,  but  levigate  their  nuts  on  the  stone,  which  is  fixed  on  a 
slope ;  and  in  the  second  pounding  or  rolling  the  paste  is  pressed 
closely  on  the  stone,  so  as  to  extract  the  oil,  which  runs  into  a  pan 
containing  the  quantity  of  sugar  intended  to  be  used,  and  is  placed 
underneath  to  receive  it;  the  oil  of  the  cacao  and  sugar  a  re  then  well 
mixed  together  with  a  spatula,  again  mixed  with  the  paste  on  the 
stone,  and  finished. 

Vanilla  Chocolate,  —  Ten  pounds  of  prepared  nuts,  ten  pounds  of 
sugar,  vanilla  two  ounces  and  a  half,  cinnamon  one  ounce,  one  drachm 
of  mace,  and  two  drachms  of  cloves,  or  the  vanilla  may  be  used 
solely. 

Prepare  your  nuts  according  to  the  directions  already  given.     Cut 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  37 

the  vanilla  in  small  bits,  pound  it  fine  with  part  of  the  sugar,  and 
mix  it  with  the  paste ;  boil  about  one-half  of  the  sugar  to  the  blow 
before  you  mix  it  to  the  chocolate,  otherwise  it  will  eat  hard.  Pro- 
ceed as  before,  and  either  put  it  in  small  moulds  or  divide  it  in 
tablets,  which  you  wrap  in  tinfoil.  This  is  in  general  termed  eatable 
chocolate. 

Cinnamon,  Mace  or  Clove  Chocolate. — These  are  made  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  last,  using  about  an  ounce  and  a  half  or  two  ounces 
of  either  sort  of  spice,  in  powder,  to  that  quantity,  or  add  a  suffi- 
ciency of  either  of  these  essential  oils  to  flavour. 

Stomachic  Chocolate. — Four  ounces  of  chocolate  prepared  without 
sugar,  vanilla  one  ounce,  cinnamon  in  powder  one  ounce,  ambergris 
forty-eight  grains,  sugar  three  ounces;  warm  your  paste  by  pounding 
in  the  heated  mortar,  or  on  the  stone,  add  your  aromatics  in  powder 
to  the  sugar,  and  mix  it  well  with  the  paste;  keep  it  close  in  tin 
boxes.  About  a  dozen  grains  of  this  is  to  be  put  into  the  chocolate 
pot  when  it  is  made,  which  gives  it  an  agreeable  and  delightful  fla- 
vour, and  renders  it  highly  stomachic.  It  may  also  be  used  for  flavour- 
ing the  chocolate  tablets. 

Chocolate  Harlequin  Pistachios.  —  Warm  some  sweet  chocolate  by 
pounding  it  in  a  hot  mortar;  when  it  is  reduced  to  a  malleable  paste, 
take  a  little  of  it  and  wrap  round  a  blanched  pistachio  nut,  roll  it  in 
the  hand  to  form  it  as  neat  as  you  can,  throw  it  in  some  nonpareils  of 
various  colours ;  let  it  be  covered  all  over.  Dispose  of  the  whole  in 
the  same  manner;  fold  th-jm  in  coloured  or  fancy  papers,  with  mot- 
toes; the  ends  should  be  cut  like  fringe.  Almonds  may  be  -tone  the 
same  way,  using  vanilla  chocolate,  if  preferred. 

Chocolate  Drops,  with  Nonpareils.  Have  some  warm  chocolate,  as 
for  pistachios;  some  add  a  little  butter  or  oil  to  it  to  make  it  work 
more  free ;  make  it  into  balls  about  the  size  of  a  small  marble,  by 
rolling  a  little  in  the  hand,  or  else  put  some  of  the  paste  on  a  flat 
piece  of  t*uod,  on  which  you  form,  and  take  them  off  with  a  knife. 
Place  them  on  sheets  of  white  paper  about  an  inch  apart.  When  the 
sheet  is  covered,  take  it  by  the  corners  and  lift  it  up  and  down,  let- 
ting it  touch  the  table  each  time,  which  will  flatten  them.  Cover 
the  surface  entirely  with  white  nonpareils,  and  shake  off  the  surplus 
ones.  When  the  drops  are  cold  they  can  be  taken  off  the  paper 
easily.  The  bottom  of  the  drops  should  be  about  as  broad  as  a  six- 
pence. Some  of  them  may  be  left  quite  plain. 

Good  chocolate  should  be  of  a  clear  red  brown.  As  the  colour  id 
paler  or  darker,  so  is  the  article  the  more  or  less  good.  The  surface 
should  bo  smooth  and  shining.  If  this  gloss  comes  off  by  touching, 
it  indicates  an  inferior  quality,  and  is  probably  adulterated.  When 
broken,  it  ought  to  be  compact  and  close,  and  not  appear  crumbly. 
It  should  melt  gently  in  the  mouth  when  oaten,  leaving  no  roughness 
or  astringency,  but  rather  a  cooling  sensation  on  the  tongue.  The 
latter  is  a  certain  sign  of  its  being  genuine. 


J8  THE    CONFECTIONER. 


SECTION    VII. LOZENGES. 

THESE  are  composed  of  loaf  sugar  in  fine  powder,  and  other  sub- 
stances, either  liquid  or  in  powder,  which  are  mixed  together  and 
made  into  a  paste  with  dissolved  gum,  rolled  out  into  thin  sheets,  and 
formed  with  tin  cutters  into  little  cakes,  either  oval,  square,  or  round, 
and  dried. 

One  ounce  of  gum  tragacanth,  and  one  pint  of  water.  Let  it 
soak  in  a  warm  place  twenty-four  hours;  put  it  in  a  coarse  towel  or 
cloth,  and  let  two  persons  continue  twisting  it  until  the  whole  of  the 
gum  is  squeezed  through  the  interstices  of  the  cloth.  One  ounce  of 
this  dissolved  gum  is  sufficient  for  four  or  five  pounds  of  sugar;  one 
ounce  of  dissolved  gum  Arabic  to  twelve  ounces  of  sugar. 

Either  of  these  gums  may  be  used  separately,  or  in  the  proportion 
of  one  ounce  of  gum  dragon  to  three  ounces  of  Arabic  mixed  to- 
gether. These  are  generally  used  for  medicated  lozenges;  but  gum 
Arabic  alone  is  considered  to  make  the  best  peppermint. 

Peppermint  Lozenges,  No.  1. —  Take  double-refined  loaf  sugar, 
pound  and  sift  it  through  a  lawn  sieve;  make  a  bay  with  the  su^ar 
on  a  marble  slab,  into  which  pour  some  dissolved  gum,  and  mix  it 
into  a  paste  as  you  would  dough,  flavouring  the  mass  with  oil  of 
peppermint.  One  ounce  of  this  is  sufficient  for  forty  pounds  of  loz- 
enges. Some  persons  prefer  mixing  their  gum  and  sugar  together 
at  first  in  a  mortar ;  but  as  it  is  indifferent  which  way  is  pursued,  that 
may  be  followed  which  is  most  convenient.  Roll  out  the  paste  on  a 
marble  slab  until  it  is  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  using 
starch  powder  to  dust  it  with,  to  prevent  its  sticking  to  the  slab  and 
pin.  Before  cutting  them  out,  strew  or  dust  over  the  surface  with 
powder  mixed  with'lawned  sugar,  and  rub  it  over  with  the  heel  of 
your  hand,  which  gives  it  a  smooth  face.  This  operation  is  termed 
"  facing  up."  Brush  this  off,  and  again  dust  the  surface  with  starch 
powder,  cut  them  out,  and  place  in  wooden  trays.  Put  them  in  the 
hot  closet  to  dry.  Note — All  lozenges  are  finished  in  the  same 
manner. 

Peppermint  Lozenges,  No.  2. — These  are  made  as  No.  1,  adding  a 
little  starch-powder  or  prepared  plaster  as  for  gum  paste  to  the  paste, 
instead  of  using  all  sugar. 

Peppermint  Lozenges,  Nos.  3  and  4. — Proceed  in  the  same  manner 
as  for  No.  2,  using  for  each,  more  starch  powder  in  proportion.  Use 
smaller  cutters,  and  let  the  paste  be  rolled  thicker. 

Transparent  Mint  Lozenges,  No.  5. — These  are  made  from  loaf 
sugar  in  coarse  powder,  the  finest  having  been  taken  out  by  sifting  it 
through  a  lawn  sieve.  Mix  it  into  a  paste  with  dissolved  gum  Arabic 
and  a  little  lemon  juice.  Flavour  with  oil  of  peppermint.  Finish  a? 
for  No.  1. 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  &V 

Superfine  Transparent  Mint  Lozenges. — The  sugar  for  these  must 
be  in  coarser  grains.  Pass  the  sugar  through  a  coarse  hair  sieve. 
Separate  the  finest  by  sifting  it  through  a  moderately  fine  hair  sieve. 
Mix  and  flavour  as  the  others. 

Note. — The  coarser  the  grains  of  sugar,  the  more  transparent  the 
lozenges.  The  finer  particles  of  sugar  being  mixed  with  it,  destroy 
their  transparency.  The  solution  of  gum  should  be  thicker  in  pro- 
portion as  the  sugar  is  coarse. 

Rose  Lozenges. — Make  your  paste  as  No.  1,  using  the  essential  oil 
or  otto  of  roses  to  flavour  them;  or  the  gum  may  be  dissolved  in  rose 
water,  and  a  little  essential  oil  may  be  added  to  give  additional  fla- 
vour, if  required.  Colour  the  paste  with  carmine  or  rose  pink. 

Cinnamon  Lozenges.  —  Gum  tragacanth,  dissolved,  two  ounces, 
lawned  sugar  eight  pounds,  cinnamon  in  powder  one  ounce,  essential 
oil  ten  drops. 

Mix  into  a  paste,  and  colour  with  bole  ammoniac.     A  stomachic. 

Clove  Lozenges.  —  Sugar  eight  pounds,  cloves  three  ounces,  gutn 
tragacanth  two  ounces. 

Each  lozenge  should  contain  two  grains  of  cloves.  A  restorative 
and  stomachic. 

Lavender  Lozenges. — Make  as  rose  lozenges,  using  the  oil  of  laven- 
der instead  of  rose. 

Ginger  Lozenges. — Eight  pounds  of  sugar  and  eight  ounces  of  the 
best  ground  ginger.  Mix  into  a  paste  with  dissolved  gum.  Essence 
may  be  used  instead  of  the  powder,  colouring  it  with  saffron.  A 
stimulant  and  stomachic. 

Nutmeg  Lozenges. — Sugar  eight  pounds,  oil  of  nutmegs  one  ounce, 
dissolved  gum  sufficient  to  mix  into  a  paste.  A  stimulant  and  stoma- 
chic. 

Rhubarb  Lozenges.  — -  Sugar  four  pounds,  best  Turkey  rhubarb,  in 
powder,  ten  ounces.  * 

Sulphur  Lozenges.  —  Four  pounds  of  sugar,  eight  ounces  of  sub- 
limed sulphur,  gum  sufficient  to  make  a  paste.  For  asthma  and  the 
piles. 

Tolu  Lozenges.— Sugar  four  pounds,  balsam  of  tolu  three  drachms, 
or  the  tincture  of  the  balsam  one  fluid  ounce,  cream  of  tartar  six 
ounces,  or  tartaric  acid  one  drachm,  dissolved  gum  sufficient  to  make 
a  paste.  These  may  also  be  flavoured  by  adding  a  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  vanilla,  and  sixty  drops  of  the  essence  of  amber.  The  articles 
must  be  reduced  to  a  fine  powder  with  the  sugar.  A  pectoral  and 
balsamic. 

Ipecacuanha  Lozenges.— Sugar  four  pounds,  ipecacuanha  one  ounce, 
apothecaries'  weight,  dissolved  gum  sufficient  to  make  a  paste.  Make 
960  lozenges,  each  containing  half  a  grain  of  ipecacuanha.  An  ex- 
pectorant and  stomachic,  used  in  coughs. 


40  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

Saffron  Lozenges. — Saffron  dried  and  powdered,  four  ounces,  euga 
four  pounds,  dissolved  gum   sufficient.     An  anodyne,  pectoral,  em- 
menagogue. 

Yellow  Pectoral  Lozenges. — Sugar  one  pound,  Florence  orris-root 
powder  twelve  drachms,  liquorice-root,  six  drachms,  almonds  one 
ounce,  saffron  in  powder  four  scruples,  dissolved  gum  sufficient  to 
make  a  paste.  Make  a  decoction  of  the  liquorice  to  moisten  the  gum 
with. 

Lozenges  for  the  Heartburn. — Prepared  chalk  four  ounces,  crab's 
eyes  prepared  two  ounces,  bole  ammoniac  one  ounce,  nutmeg  one 
scruple,  or  cinnamon  half  an  ounce.  Make  into  a  paste  with  dis- 
solved gum  Arabic. 

Steel  Lozenges. — Pure  iron  filings  or  rust  of  iron  one  pound,  cinna- 
mon in  powder,  four  ounces,  fine  sugar  seven  pounds,  dissolved  gum 
a  sufficient  quantity  to  make  a  paste.  A  stomachic  and  tonic. 

Magnesia  Lozenges. — Calcined  magnesia  eight  ounces,  sugar  four 
ounces,  ginger  in  powder  two  scruples,  dissolved  gum  Arabic  suffi- 
cient to  form  a  paste. 

Magnesia  two  ounces,  sugar  eight  ounces,  sufficient  gum  Arabic 
to  make  a  paste,  Dissolved  in  orange-flower  water. 

Nitre  Lozenges. — Sugar  four  pounds,  sal-nitre  one  pound,  dissolved 
gum  tragacanth,  sufficient  to  make  a  paste.  A  diuretic  internally ; 
held  in  the  mouth  it  removes  incipient  sore  throats. 

Marshmallow  Lozenges. — Marshmallow  roots  in  powder  one  pound, 
or  slice  the  root  and  make  a  strong  decoction,  in  which  you  dissolve 
the  gum,  fine  sugar  four  pounds.  Mix  into  a  paste.  If  six  drops  of 
laudanum  be  added,  with  two  ounces  of  liquorice,  the  pectoral  quality 
of  these  lozenges  will  be  improved.  Good  for  obstinate  coughs. 

Vanilla  Lozenges.  —  Sugar  four  pounds,  vanilla  in  powder,  six 
ounces,  or  sufficient  to  give  a  strong  flavour.  Make  into  a  paste 
with  dissolved  gum. 

Catechu  Lozenges.  —  Sugar  four  pounds,  catechu  twelve  ounces. 
Make  into  a  paste  with  dissolved  gum. 

Catechu  a  PJlmbergris. — To  the  paste  for  catechu  lozenges  add 
sixteen  grains  of  ambergris. 

Catechu  with  Musk. — The  same  as  for  catechu,  adding  sixteen 
grains  of  musk. 

Catechu  with  Orange-flowers. — As  before,  adding  twelve  drops  of 
essence  of  neroli. 

Catechu  with  Violets.  —  As  before,  adding  Florence  orris-root  in 
powder,  three  drachms.  These  are  all  used  to  fasten  the  teeth,  and 
disguise  an  offensive  breath. 

Ching's  Yellow  Worm  Lozenges. — Fine  sugar  twenty-eight  pounds, 
calomel  washed  in  spirits  of  wine  one  pound,  saffron  four  drachms, 
dissolved  gum  tragacanth  sufficient  to  make  a  paste.  Make  a  decoc- 


TttE    CONFECTIONED,  41 

tion  of  the  saffron  in  one  pint  of  water,  strain,  and  mix  with  it. 
Each  lozenge  should  contain  one  grain  of  mercury. 

Ching's  Brown  Worm  Lozenges. — ^Calomel  washed  in  spirits  of 
wine  (termed  white  panacea  of  mercury},  seven  ounces,  resin  of  jalap 
three  pounds  eight  ounces,  fine  sugar  nine  pounds,  dissolved  gum 
sufficient  quantity  to  make  a  paste.  Each  lozenge  should  contain 
half  a  grain  of  mercury. 

Panacea,  one  ounce,  resin  of  jalap  two  ounces,  sugar  two  pounds. 
Dissolve  a  sufficient  quantity  of  gum  in  rose-water  to  make  a  paste. 
Make  2520  lozenges,  weighing  eight  grains  each,  and  containing  a 
quarter  of  a  grain  of  calomel  and  half  a  grain  of  jalap. 

These  lozenges  should  be  kept  very  dry  after  they  are  finished,  as 
the  damp,  acting  on  the  sugar  and  mercury,  generates  an  acid  in  them. 

Note. — In  mixing  these,  as  well  as  all  other  medicated  lozenges,  the 
different  powders  should  be  well  mixed  with  the  sugar,  in  order  that 
each  lozenge  may  have  its  due  portion.  If  this  is  not  attended  to, 
the  perfect  distribution  of  the  component  parts  cannot  be  depended  on, 
and  one  lozenge  may  contain  double  or  treble  the  quantity  of  medi- 
cated matter  it  ought  to  have,  whilst  others  contain  comparatively 
none ;  therefore  those  that  have  the  greatest  portion  may  often  prove 
injurious  by  acting  contrary  to  what  was  intended. 

Bath  Pipe. — Eight  pounds  of  sugar,  twelve  ounces  of  liquorice. 
Warm  the  liquorice  and  cut  it  in  thin  slices,  dissolve  it  in  one  quart 
of  boiling  water,  stir  it  well  to  assist  the  solution  ;  let  it  settle,  when 
dissolved,  to  allow  any  impurities  or  bits  of  copper  which  are  often 
found  in  it  to  fall  down ;  pour  it  off  free  from  the  sediment;  dissolve 
the  gum  in  the  clear  part,  and  mix  into  a  paste  as  for  lozenges.  Roll 
out  a  piece  with  your  hand  in  a  round  form ;  finish  rolling  it  with  a 
long  flat  piece  of  wood,  until  it  is  about  the  size  of  the  largest  end  of 
the  stem  of  a  tobacco-pipe.  Dry  them  in  the  stove  as  lozenges. 
These  may  be  also  flavoured  with  anise-seed  by  adding  a  few  drops 
of  the  oil,  or  with  catechu  or  violets  by  adding  the  powders  of  orris- 
root  or  catechu. 

Peppermint  or  other  Pipes. — Any  of  the  pastes  for  lozenges  may  be 
formed  into  pipes  by  rolling  it  out  as  directed  for  Bath  pipes.  They 
are  occasionally  striped  with  blue  green,  and  yellow,  by  making 
strips  with  liquid  colour  on  the  paste  and  twisting  before  you  roll  it 
out  with  the  board. 

Brilliants. — Take  either  of  the  pastes  for  peppermint  lozenges 
from  No.  1  to  4,  and  cut  it  into  small  fancy  devices,  such  as  hearts, 
diamonds,  spades,  triangles,  squares,  &c. 

Refined  Liquorice. — Four  pounds  of  the  best  Spanish  juice,  and  two 
pounds  of  gum  Arabic.  Dissolve  the  gum  in  warm  water,  as  for 
Bath  pipe.  Strain  and  dissolve  the  gum  in  the  solution  of  liquorice. 
Place  it  over  a  gentle  fire,  in  a  broad  pan,  and  let  it  boil  gradually, 
stirring  it  continually  (or  it  will  burn)  until  it  is  reduced  to  a  paste. 
Roll  it  into  pipes  or  cylinders  of  convenient  lengths,  and  polish  by 
4* 


42  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

putting  them  in  a  box  and  rolling  them  together,  or  by  rubbing  them 
with  the  hand,  or  a  cloth.  This  is  often  adulterated  by  using  glue 
instead  of  gum,  and  by  dipping  the  pipes  in  a  thin  solution,  which 
gives  them  a  beautiful  gloss  when  dry.  In  establishments  where 
this  is  manufactured  on  a  large  scale,  the  liquorice  is  dissolved  in  a 
large  bain-marie,  and  stirred  with  spatulas  which  are  worked  by  a 
steam-engine. 


SECTION   VIII. PASTILE    DROPS. 

CHOOSE  the  best  treble-refined  sugar  with  a  good  grain,  pound  it,  and 
pass  it  through  a  coarse  hair  sieve;  sift  again  in  a  lawn  sieve  to  take 
out  the  finest  part,  as  the  sugar,  when  it  is  too  fine,  makes  the  drops 
heavy  and  compact,  and  destroys  their  brilliancy  and  shining  appear- 
ance. 

Put  some  of  the  coarse  grains  of  sugar  into  a  small  drop  pan  (these 
are  made  with  a  lip  on  the  right  side,  so  that  when  it  is  held  in  the 
left  hand  the  drops  can  be  detached  with  the  right),  moisten  it  with 
any  aromatic  spirit  you  intend  to  use,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
water  to  make  it  of  a  consistence  just  to  drop  off  the  spoon  or  spatula 
without  sticking  to  it.  Colour  with  prepared  cochineal,  or  any  other 
colour,  ground  fine  and  moistened  with  a  little  water.  Let  the  tint 
which  you  give  be  as  light  and  delicate  as  possible.  Place  the  pan 
on  the  stove  fire,  on  a  ring  of  the  same  size.  Stir  it  occasionally 
until  it  makes  a  noise,  when  it  is  near  boiling,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  ,• 
then  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  stir  it  well  with  the  spatula  until  it  is 
of  the  consistence  that  when  dropped  it  will  not  spread  too  much, 
but  retain  a  round  form  on  the  surface.  If  it  should  be  too  thin,  add 
a  little  coarse  sugar,  which  should  be  reserved  for  the  purpose,  and 
make  it  of  the  thickness  required.  Have  some  very  smooth  and  even 
plates,  made  either  of  tin  or  copper;  let  them  be  quite  clean,  and 
drop  them  on  these,  separating  the  sugar  from  the  lip  of  the  pan  with 
a  piece  of  straight  wire,  as  regularly  as  possible.  About  two  hours 
Afterwards  they  may  be  taken  off  with  a  thin  knife.  If  you  have  not 
the  convenience  of  tin  or  copper  plates,  they  may  be  dropped  on 
smooth  cartridge  paper.  Wet  the  back  of  the  paper  when  you  want 
to  take  them  off.  Cover  the  bottom  of  a  sieve  with  paper,  lay  them 
on  it,  and  put  them  in  the  stove  for  a  few  hours.  If  they  remain 
too  long,  it  will  destroy  their  fragrancy. 

Chocolate  Drops.  —  One  pound  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  chocolate. 
Scrape  the  chocolate  to  a  powder,  and  mix  it  with  the  sugar  in  coarse 
grains,  moisten  it  with  clean  water,  and  proceed  according  to  the 
instructions  already  given,  but  do  not  mix  more  than  can  be  dropped 
out  whilst  warm  at  one  time.  If  any  remains  in  the  pot,  it  will  grease 
the  next  which  you  mix,  and  will  not  attain  the  consistence  required. 

Coffee  Drops. — One  ounce  of  coffee,  one  pound  of  sugar.     Make  a 


THE   CONFECTIONER.  43 

strong  and  clear  infusion  of  coffee,  as  directed  for  coffee  ice,  and  uso 
it  to  moisten  the  sugar.  Make  the  drops  as  above. 

Cinnamon  Drops. — One  ounce  of  cinnamon,  one  pound  of  sugar* 
Pulverize  the  cinnamon,  and  sift  it  through  a  lawn  sieve.  Mix  it 
with  the  sugar,  and  add  two  or  three  drops  of  the  essential  oil.  If 
the  flavour  is  not  strong  enough,  moisten  it  with  the  water  and  pro- 
ceed as  before.  The  flavour  may  be  given  with  the  essential  oil  only, 
colouring  them  with  bole  ammoniac. 

Clnve  Drops. — Make  as  cinnamon. 

Vanilla  Drops — Make  as  cinnamon,  using  a  little  sugar  to  pound 
the  vanilla.  Use  sufficient  to  give  a  good  flavour ;  or  it  may  be 
moistened  with  the  essence  of  vanilla;  but  this  greases  it  as  choco- 
late. 

Violet  Drops.  —  One  pound  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  orris-powder. 
Moisten  with  water,  and  colour  violet. 

Catechu  Drops.  —  One  pound  of  sugar,  three  ounces  of  catechu. 
Make  as  violet.  These  may  also  have  the  addition  of  a  little  musk 
or  ambergris — about  fifteen  grains. 

Ginger  Drops.  —  Mix  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  best  powdered 
ginger  to  give  it  the  desired  taste,  or  flavour  it  with  the  essence  of 
ginger,  and  colour  it  with  saffron.  Moisten  with  water,  and  make  as 
others. 

Lemon  Drops. — Rub  off  the  yellow  rind  of  some  lemons  on  a  piece 
of  rough  sugar,  scrape  it  off,  and  mix  it  with  the  coarse  sugar.  Use 
sufficient  to  give  a  good  flavour,  and  colour  with  saffron  a  light  yel- 
low ;  moisten  with  water,  as  others. 

Rose  Drops. — Moisten  the  sugar  with  rose  water,  and  colour  it  with 
cochineal. 

Peppermint  Drops. — Moisten  the  sugar  with  peppermint  water,  or 
flavour  it  with  the  essence  of  peppermint,  and  moisten  it  with  water. 

Orange-flower  Drops.  —  Use  orange-flower  water  to  moisten  the 
sugar,  or  flavour  it  with  the  essence  of  neroli  and  moisten  with 
water. 

Orgiat  Drops — Make  milk  of  almonds,  as  directed  under  the  head 
of  Orgeat  Syrup,  using  a  little  orange-flower  water;  moisten  the 
s-ugar  with  it. 

Raspberry  Drops.  —  Press  out  the  juice  of  some  ripe  raspberries 
through  a  piece  of  flannel  or  cloth,  and  moisten  the  sugar  with  it. 
All  fruit  drops  are  made  in  the  same  way, — that  is,  with  th'e  expressed 
juice, — except  pine-apple.  When  you  first  rub  off  the  rind  of  the 
fruit  on  sugar,  pound  the  pulp  of  the  fruit,  and  pass  through  a  hair 
sieve.  Scrape  off  the  sugar  on  which  the  rind  was  rubbed,  and  mix 
it  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  pulp  to  give  the  desired  flavour  to 
the  coarse  grains,  and  moisten  it  with  water.  The  whole  of  these 


44  T«E    CONFECTIONER. 

grease  the  sugar*  and  require  the  same  precautions  as  chocolate 
drops. 


SECTION    IX. COMFITS. 

A  COPPER  comfit-pan  is  requisite  for  this  purpose.  A  bar,  having 
chains  at  each  end,  with  a  hook  and  swivel  in  the  centre,  is  attached 
to  it,  by  which  it  is  suspended  from  the  ceiling  or  a  beam,  so  as  to 
hang  about  as  high  as  the  breast  over  a  stove  or  charcoal  fire,  that  the 
pan  may  be  kept  at  a  moderate  heat  and  at  such  a  distance  as  to 
allow  it  to  be  swung  backwards  and  forwards  without  touching  the 
fire  or  stove.  A  preserving-pan,  containing  clarified  syrup,  must  be 
placed  by  the  side  of  the  stove,  or  over  another  fire,  that  it  may  be 
kept  hot,  but  not  boiling;  also  a  ladle  for  throwing  the  syrup  into  the 
pan,  and  a  pearling  cot.  This  last  somewhat  resembles  a  funnel, 
without  the  pipe  or  tube,  and  having  a  small  hole  in  the  centre  with 
a  pointed  piece  of  stick  or  spigot  fitted  into  it,  which,  being  drawn 
out  a  little,  allows  the  syrup  when  placed  in  it  to  run  out  in  a  small 
stream.  A  piece  of  string  tied  several  times  across  the  centre  of  the 
top  of  the  cot,  and  twisted  with  the  spigot,  allows  it  to  be  drawn  out 
and  regulated  at  pleasure. 

Scotch  Caraway  Comfits. — Sift  two  pounds  of  seeds  in  a  hair  sieve 
to  free  them  from  dust,  put  them  into  the  comfit-pan,  and  rub  them 
well  about  the  bottom  with  your  hand  until  they  are  quite  warm  ;  have 
some  clarified  loaf  sugar  in  syrup  and  boiled  to  the  small  thread  ;  give 
them  a  charge  by  pouring  over  them  about  two  table-spoonfuls  to  com- 
mence with ;  rub  and  shake  them  well  about  the  pan,  that  they  may 
take  the  sugar  equally,  until  they  are  quite  dry.  Be  careful  in  not 
making  them  too  wet  in  the  first  charges  by  using  too  much  syrup, 
or  they  will  lie  of  a  lump  and  get  doubled,  and  you  will  have  diffi- 
culty in  parting  them.  It  will  prevent  their  sticking  together  if  the 
hand  is  passed  through  them  between  every  swing  of  the  pan,  and 
also  add  to  their  smoothness.  Do  not  let  the  heat  under  the  pan  be 
too  strong,  or  it  will  spoil  their  whiteness.  Give  them  four  or  five 
charges,  increasing  the  quantity  of  syrup  a  little  each  time,  and  let 
each  charge  be  well  dried  before  another  is  given,  dusting  them  at 
the  last  charge  with  flour.  Sift  them  in  a  hair  sieve,  and  clean  the 
pan.  Put  them  in  again,  and  give  them  four  or  five  charges  more, 
with  a  dust  of  flour  at  the  last ;  then  sift  them  and  clean  the  pan. 
Proceed  in  this  manner  until  they  are  one-third  of  the  required  size. 
Put  them  into  the  stove  or  sun  to  dry  until  the  next  day,  then  clarify 
and  boil  some  sugar  to  the  large  thread,  keep  it  warm  as  before,  divide 
the  comfits,  and  put  part  of  them  in  the  pan,  so  as  not  to  have  too 
many  at  one  time,  for  as  they  increase  in  size  you  must  divide  them 
into  convenient  portions,  so  that  you  may  be  enabled  to  work  them 
properly  without  encumbering  the  pan.  Give  them  four  or  five 
charges  of  syrup,  proceed  ing  in  the  same  manner  as  before,  until  they 


THE    CONFECTIONED.  45 

are  two-thirds  or  more  of  the  required  size,  and  stove  them  until  the 
next  day.  Continue  in  this  manner  with  each  portion  alternately, 
until  they  are  all  done.  On  the  third  day,  boil  the  syrup  to  the  small 
pearl,  and  give  eight  or  ten  charges  as  before,  without  using  flour,  so 
as  to  finish  them,  lessening  the  quantity  of  syrup  each  time.  Swing 
the  pan  gently,  and  dry  each  charge  well.  Put  them  in  the  stove 
for  half  an  hour  or  an  hour  after  each  charge,  and  proceed  alternately 
with  each  portion  until  they  are  finished,  when  they  should  be  about 
the  size  of  peas.  Put  them  in  the  stove  for  a  day,  then  smooth  them 
with  the  whitest  loaf  sugar  in  syrup,  boiled  to  the  small  thread  ;  add 
two  or  three  table-spoonfuls  of  dissolved  gum  Arabic  with  it  to  give 
them  a  gloss.  Give  three  or  four  charges  with  a  very  gentle  heat, 
the  syrup  being  cold  and  the  pan  scarcely  warm.  Work  and  dry 
each  charge  well  before  another  is  added  :  when  finished,  dry  them 
in  a  moderate  heat.  It  is  the  best  way,  if  possible,  to  dry  comfits  in 
the  sun,  as  it  bleaches  them.  If  the  stove  is  at  a  greater  heat  than 
the  sun  in  a  moderately  warm  day,  which  is  from  70  to  80  degrees  of 
Fahrenheit,  it  will  spoil  their  whiteness. 

Bath  Caraways. — These  are  made  in  the  same  way,  but  only  half 
the  size. 

Common  Caraways. — Sift  the  seeds,  and  warm  them  in  the  pan,  as 
for  Scotch  caraways.  Have  some  gum  Arabic  dissolved,  throw  in  a 
ladleful,  and  rub  them  well  about  the  pan  with  the  hand  until  dry, 
dusting  them  with  flour.  Give  them  three  or  four  coatings  in  this 
manner,  and  then  a  charge  of  sugar,  until  they  are  about  one  half  the 
required  size.  Dry  them  for  a  day,  give  them  two  or  three  coatings 
of  gum  and  flour,  finish  them  by  giving  three  or  four  charges  of  sugar, 
and  dry  them.  These  are  made  about  the  size  of  Bath  caraways. 
Colour  parts  of  them  different  colours,  leaving  the  greatest  portion 
white. 

Cinnamon  Comfits. — Cinnamon  is  the  bark  of  a  tree,  of  which  there 
are  two  sorts.  The  inferior  quality  is  that  usually  sold  for  cinnamon, 
and  is  otherwise  known  as  cassia,  or  cassia  lignea.  This  breaks  short, 
and  has  a  slimy  mucilaginous  taste,  is  thicker,  and  of  a  darker  colour 
than  the  cinnamon,  which  is  the  inner  bark.  This  breaks  shivery, 
and  has  a  warm  aromatic  taste,  and  is  of  a  reddish  colour. 

Take  one  pound  of  cinnamon  bark,  and  steep  it  in  water  for  a  few 
hours  to  soften  it;  cut  it  into  small  pieces  about  half  an  inch  long, 
and  the  size  of  a  large  needle.  Dry  it  in  the  stove.  Put  your  pieces, 
when  dry,  into  the  comfit-pan,  and  pour  on  them  a  little  syrup,  as  for 
Scotch  caraways,  proceeding  in  the  same  way  until  they  are  one- 
third  the  required  size.  You  must  not  use  your  hand  for  these  as 
you  would  for  caraways,  as  they  are  liable  to  break  in  two.  Dry 
them  in  the  stove,  then  suspend  the  pearling  pot  or  cot  from  the  bar 
of  the  pan  or  ceiling,  so  as  to  hang  over  the  centre  of  the  pan  ;  boil 
some  clarified  loaf  sugar  to  the  large  pearl,  and  fill  the  cot ;  put  some 
of  the  prepared  comfits  in  the  pan,  but  not  too  many  at  a  time,  as  it 


46  THE  CONFECTIONER. 

is  difficult  to  get  them  to  pearl  alike.  Keep  the  syrup  at  the  boiling 
point :  open  the  spigot  of  the  cot  so  as  to  allow  it  to  run  in  a  very 
small  stream,  or  more  like  a  continued  dropping;  swing  the  pan 
backwards  and  forwards  gently,  and  keep  a  stronger  fire  under  the 
pan  than  otherwise.  Be  careful  that  the  syrup  does  not  run  too  fast, 
and  wet  them  too  much,  but  so  that  it  dries  as  soon  as  dropped,  which 
causes  them  to  appear  rough.  If  one  cot  full  of  sugar  is  not  enough, 
put  in  more  until  they  are  the  required  size.  When  one  lot  is 
finished  put  in  sieves  to  dry,  and  proceed  to  another;  but  do  not  let 
them  lie  in  the  pan  after  you  have  finished  shaking  them.  They 
will  be  whiter  and  better  if  partly  pearled  one  day  and  finished  the 
next.  Use  the  best  clarified  sugar  to  finish  them. 

Coriander  Comfits. — Proceed  with  these  as  for  Scotch  caraways, 
working  them  up  to  about  the  same  size.  The  next  day  pearl  them 
to  a  good  size,  as  for  cinnamon. 

Celery  Comjits. — Put  one  pound  of  celery  seed  into  the  pan,  and 
proceed  as  for  Scotch  caraway  comfits,  working  them  up  to  the  size 
of  a  large  pin's  head.  Dry  and  pearl  them  as  cinnamon. 

Caraway  Comfits,  pearled. — When  the  comfits  are  about  the  size 
of  Bath  caraways,  dry  and  pearl  them  as  cinnamon. 

Jllmond  Comfits. — Sift  some  Valencia  almonds  in  a  cane  or  wicker 
sieve,  pick  out  any  pieces  of  shell  which  may  be  amongst  them,  and 
also  any  of  the  almonds  which  are  either  very  small  or  very  large, 
using  those  which  are  as  near  of  a  size  as  possible;  take  about  four 
pounds,  put  them  in  the  comfit-pan,  and  proceed  in  precisely  the  same 
way  as  for  Scotch  caraways;  or,  they  may  first  have  a  coating  of 
dissolved  gum  Arabic;  rub  them  well  about  the  pan  with  the  hand, 
and  give  them  a  dust  of  flour;  then  pour  on  a  little  syrup  at  the 
small  thread,  work  and  dry  them  well,  then  give  them  three  or  four 
more  charges,  and  a  charge  of  gum  with  a  dust  of  flour.  Proceed  in 
this  way  until  they  are  one-third  the  required  size,  then  dry  them 
for  a  day,  and  proceed  and  finish  as  for  caraway  comfits.  For  the 
cheaper  or  more  common  comfits,  more  gum  and  flour  are  used  in 
making  them. 

Cardamom  Comfits. — The  seeds  should  be  kept  in  their  husks  until 
they  are  required  to  be  used,  as  they  lose  much  of  their  flavour  and 
virtues  when  deprived  of  them.  They  are  often  mixed  with  grains 
of  paradise,  but  these  have  not  the  aromatic  taste  of  the  cardamom, 
and  are  more  hot  and  spicy.  Break  the  husks  of  the  cardamoms  by 
rolling  them  with  a  pin  ;  separate  the  skins  from  the  seeds,  put  two 
pounds  into  the  comfit-pan,  and  proceed  as  for  Scotch  caraways. 
Make  them  a  good  size,  and  quite  smooth. 

Barberry  Comjits. — Pick  the  barberries  from  the  stalks,  and  dry 
them  in  a  hot  stove  on  sieves ;  when  dry,  put  about  two  pounds  into 
the  comfit-pan,  and  proceed  as  for  almond  comfits,  giving  them  first  a 
charge  of  gurn  and  flour,  and  finish  as  others.  Make  them  of  a  good 
size  and  quite  smooth  f  finish  with  very  white  loaf  sugar  with  syrup. 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  47 

Cherry  Comfits. — These  are  made  from  preserved  cherries,  dried. 
Roll  them  in  your  hand  to  make  them  quite  round,  dust  them  with 
powdered  loaf  sugar,  and  dry  them  again;  then  proceed  as  for  bar- 
berry comfits.  Any  other  preserved  fruits  may  be  made  into  comfits 
after  the  same  manner. 

Comfits  flavoured  with  Liqueurs. — Blanch  some  bitter  almonds,  or 
the  kernels  of  apricots  or  peaches;  let  them  soak  in  hot  water  for  an 
hour,  then  drain  them,  and  put  them  into  any  sort  of  liqueur  or  spirit 
you  may  desire.  Lower  the  strength  of  the  spirit  water,  that  the  ker- 
nels may  imbibe  it  the  better,  cork  the  jug  or  bottle  close,  and  let 
them  infuse  in  it  until  the  spirit  has  fully  penetrated  them,  which  will 
be  about  fourteen  or  fifteen  days ;  then  take  them  out,  drain  and  dry 
them  in  a  moderate  heat ;  when  dry,  proceed  as  for  almond  comfits. 

Orange  Comfits. — Take  some  preserved  orange-peel,  and  cut  it  into 
small  thin  strips ;  dry  them  in  the  stove,  and  make  as  cinnamon 
comfits. 

Lemon  Peel  or  Angelica  may  be  made  into  comfits  after  the  same 
manner.  Let  the  strips  of  peel  be  about  the  size  of  the  pieces  of 
cinnamon,  and  thoroughly  dried  before  working  them  in  the  pan. 

Nonpareils. — Pound  some  loaf  sugar,  and  sift  it  through  a  fine  wire 
sieve ;  sift  what  has  passed  through  again  in  a  lawn  sieve,  to  take 
out  the  finest  particles,  so  that  you  have  only  the  fine  grain  of  sugar 
left  without  dust.  Put  about  two  pounds  of  this  into  the  comfit-pan, 
and  proceed  as  for  Scotch  caraways,  working  them  well  with  the 
hand  until  they  are  about  the  size  of  pins'  heads. 

To  colour  Nonpareils  or  Comfits. — Put  some  of  your  comfits  or  non- 
pareils into  the  comfit-pan,  shake  or  rub  them  about  until  warm,  then 
add  a  sufficient  quantity  of  prepared  liquid  colour  (see  Colours)  to 
give  the  desired  tint ;  be  careful  not  to  make  them  too  wet,  nor  of 
too  dark  a  colour,  but  rather  light  than  otherwise ;  shake  or  rub  them 
well  about,  that  they  may  be  coloured  equally;  dry  them  a  little  over 
the  fire,  then  put  them  in  sieves,  and  finish  drying  them  in  the  stove. 
Clean  the  pan  for  every  separate  colour. 


COMFITS  IN  GUM  PASTE. 

' 

Raspberry  Comfits. — Prepare  some  gum  paste  made  with  sugar,  or 
the  scrapings  of  the  comfit-pan  pounded  and  sifted  through  a  lawn 
sieve.  It  may  be  flavoured  with  raspberry  jam,  by  mixing  some  with 
the  paste.  Colour  it  with  prepared  cochineal ;  mould  it  into  the 
form  of  raspberries,  and  dry  them  in  the  stove ;  when  they  are  per- 
*ectly  dry  and  hard,  pearl  them  as  for  cinnamon  comfits,  working 
them  until  the  size  of  natural  raspberries.  Colour  them  when  dry 
with  cochineal,  as  comfits. 

Ginger  Comfits. — Flavour  gum  paste  with  powdered  ginger,  make  it 


48  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

into  small  balls  about  the  size  of  coriander  seeds,  or  peas;  dry,  and 
proceed  as  for  Scotch  caraways.  Colour  them  yellow  when  finished. 

Clove  Comfits. — Flavour  sugar  gum  paste  with  the  oil  of  cloves,  and 
mould  it  in  the  form  of  cloves.  Dry  and  finish  as  others. 

Any  flavour  may  be  given  to  this  sort  of  comfits,  and  they  are 
moulded  to  form  the  article  of  which  it  bears  the  name,  or  cut  into 
any  device  with  small  cutters.  Dried,  and  finished  as  other  comfits. 

To  colour  Loaf-Sugar  Dust. — Pound  some  sugar,  and  sift  it  through 
a  coarse  hair  sieve ;  sift  this  again  through  a  lawn  sieve,  to  take  out 
the  finer  portions.  Put  the  coarse  grains  into  a  preserving  pan,  and 
warm  them  over  the  stove  fire,  stirring  it  continually  with  the  hand ; 
pour  in  some  liquid  colour  to  give  the  desired  tint,  and  continue  to 
work  it  about  the  pan  until  it  is  dry. 

SECTION    X. FRUIT    JELLIES. 

THESE  are  the  juices  of  mucilaginous  fruits,  rendered  clear  by  fil- 
tering them  through  a  flannel  bag,  and  adding  an  equal  weight  of 
sugar;  boil  to  the  consistence  of  a  jelly.  If  the  boiling  is  continued 
too  long  they  will  become  ropy,  or  more  like  treacle. 

Apple,  Jelly. — Take  either  russet  pippins,  or  any  good  bakingf  apples ; 
pare  and  core  them,  cut  them  in  slices  into  a  preserving  pan^contain- 
ing  sufficient  water  to  cover  them ;  then  put  them  on  the  fire,  and 
boil  them  until  they  are  reduced  to  a  mash.  Put  it  into  a  hair  sieve, 
that  the  water  may  drain  off,  which  you  receive  in  a  basin  or  pan  ; 
then  filter  it  through  a  flannel  bag.  To  every  pint  of  filtered  juice 
add  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  clarify,  and  boil  it  to  the  ball.  Mix  the 
juice  with  it,  and  boil  until  it  jellies;  stir  it  with  a  spatula  or  wooden 
spoon,  from  the  bottom,  to  prevent  burning.  When  it  is  boiled  enough, 
if  you  try  it  with  your  finger  and  thumb,  as  directed  in  sugar-boiling, 
a  string  may  be  drawn  similar  to  the  small  pearl :  it  may  also  be 
known  by  its  adhering  to  the  spatula  or  spoon,  or  a  little  may  be 
dropped  on  a  cold  plate;  if  it  soon  sets,  it  is  done.  Take  off  the  scum 
which  rises  on  the  top.  This  is  in  general  used  for  pouring  over  pre- 
served wet  fruits.  This  jelly  may  be  coloured  red  with  prepared 
cochineal. 

Quince  Jelly. — This  is  made  as  apple  jelly.  The  seed  of  the  quince 
is  very  mucilaginous.  An  ounce  of  bruised  seed  will  make  three 
pints  of  water  as  thick  as  the  white  of  an  egg. 

Red  Currant  Jelly. — Take  three  quarts  of  fine  ripe  red  currant?, 
and  four  of  white ;  put  them  into  a  jar,  tie  paper  over  the  top,  and 
put  them  into  a  cool  oven  for  three  or  four  hours,  or  else  into  a  pan 
of  boiling  water;  when  they  are  done,  pour  them  into  a  jelly  bag; 
what  runs  out  at  first  put  back  again;  do  this  until  it  runs  fine  and 
clear.  To  each  pint  of  filtered  juice  add  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar 
clarified  and  boiled  to  the  ball:  mix  the  filtered  juice  with  it,  and 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  49 

reduce  it  to  a  jelly,  stirring  it  well  from  the  bottom  with  a  spatula. 
What  scum  forms  on  the  top  take  off  with  a  skimmer,  put  it  into  pots 
or  glasses,  and  when  cold  cut  some  pieces  of  paper  to  the  size  of  the 
tops,  steep  it  in  brandy,  and  put  over  it ;  then  wet  some  pieces  of 
bladder,  put  it  over  the  top  of  the  pot  or  glass,  and  tie  it  down. 

White  and  Black  Currant  Jelly. — These  are  made  in  the  same  way, 
using  part  red  currants  with  the  black  ones. 

Violet-coloured  Currant  Jelly. — This  is  made  as  red  currant  jelly, 
mixing  two  pounds  of  black  currants  with  ten  of  red. 

Cherry  Jel/y. — Pick  off  the  stalks  and  take  out  the  stones  of  some 
fine  ripe  Morello  cherries,  and  to  every  four  pounds  of  cherries  add 
one  pound  of  red  currants;  proceed  as  for  currant  jelly. 

Barberry  Jelly. — Take  some  very  ripe  barberries,  pick  them  from 
their  stalk?,  and  weigh  them.  To  every  pound  of  fruit  take  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  add  sufficient  water  to  make  it  into 
a  syrup,  put  in  the  barberries,  and  boil  them  until  the  syrup  comes  to 
the  pearl,  taking  off  any  scum  which  may  rise.  Then  throw  them 
into  a  fine  hair  or  lawn  sieve,  and  press  the  berries  with  a  spoon  to 
extract  as  much  juice  as  possible  from  them.  Receive  the  syrup  and 
juice  in  a  pan,  put  it  again  on  the  fire,  and  finish  as  apple  jelly. 

Any  of  these  jellies  may  be  made  without  fire  on  the  same  principle 
as  clear  cakes.  Get  the  fruit  ripe  and  fresh  gathered,  obtain  the  juice 
by  expression,  and  filter  it  through  a  flannel  bag;  add  an  equal  weight 
of  sugar  to  that  of  filtered  juice,  stir  it  well  together  until  the  sugar 
is  dissolved,  and  place  it  in  a  warm  place  or  the  sun  for  a  few  day?, 
when  it  will  be  a  fine  jelly.  Those  made  in  this  manner  retain  the 
natural  flavour  of  the  fruit. 

Raspberry  Jelly. — Take  one  and  a  half  gallons  of  ripe  raspberries 
and  a  half  gallon  of  ripe  currants,  press  out  the  juice  and  filter  it;  to 
a  pint  of  juice  add  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  and  finish  as  other  jellies. 

Gooseberry  Jelly. — Make  as  currant  jelly ;  or  it  may  be  made  of 
green  gooseberries,  as  apple  jelly. 

[Blackberry  Jelly. —  Make  as  currant  jelly — using  half  a  gallon  of 
raspberries  to  one  gallon  of  black  currants;  finish  as  usual.] 

SECTION    XI. MARMALADES    OR    JAMS. 

MARMALADE  is  generally  a  term  applied  to  a  preserve  made  either 
of  oranges,  lemons,  apples,  pears,  quinces,  or  plums;  but  I  know  nn 
difference  between  marmalades  and  jams,  as  they  are  each  of  them 
the  pulp  of  fruits  reduced  to  a  consistence,  with  sugar,  by  being  boiled. 
If  it  contains  too  much  sugar  it  will  crystallize,  or  what  is  termed 
candy.  The  top  and  sides  of  the  vessel  which  contains  it  will  be 
covered  with  a  thin  coating  of  sugar;  and  if  there  is  not  enough  in  it, 
or  it  is  not  sufficiently  boiled,  it  will  soon  ferment.  Keep  them  in  a 
cool  dry  place. 
5 


50  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

Apple  Marmalade. — Pare  and  core  some  good  apples;  cut  them  in 
pieces  into  a  preserving  pan,  with  sufficient  water  to  cover  them;  put 
them  on  the  fire,  and  boil  until  they  are  reduced  to  a  mash,  then  pass 
the  whole  through  a  colander;  to  each  pound  of  pulp  add  twelve 
ounces  of  FUgar;  put  it  on  the  fire,  and  boil  it  until  it  will  jelly ;  try 
it  as  directed  for  apple  jelly ;  put  it  into  pots  when  cold,  and  cover 
the  top  with  paper  dipped  in  brandy,  or  pour  over  it  melted  mutton 
suet,  and  tie  it  over  with  paper  or  bladder. 

Quince  Marmalade.— Make  as  apple,  colouring  it  with  prepared 
cochineal,  if  required  red;  let  the  fruit  be  quite  ripe. 

Green  JJpricot  Marmalade  or  Jam. — Prepare  the  fruit  by  blanching 
and  greening  (as  for  green  apricots,  wet).  When  they  are  green, 
pulp  them  by  rubbing  them  through  a  coarse  hair  sieve  or  colander ; 
for  each  pound  of  pulp  clarify  and  boil  to  the  blow  one  pound  of  loaf 
sugar;  mix  it  with  the  pulp  and  boil  it  until  it  will  jelly  ;  take  off' any 
scum  which  may  arise  with  a  skimmer.  This  jam  is  of  an  excellent 
green  colour,  and  is  very  useful  for  ornamenting  and  piping  almond 
bread,  &c. 

Cherry  Marmalade  or  Jajn. — Take  out  the  stones  and  stalks  from 
some  fine  cherries  and  pulp  them  through  a  cane  sieve ;  to  every  three 
pounds  of  pulp  add  half  a  pint  of  currant  juice,  and  three-quarters  of 
a  pound  of  sugar  to  each  pound  of  fruit ;  mix  together  and  boil  until  it 
will  jelly.  Put  it  into  pots  or  glasses. 

Currants,  raspberries,  plums,  and  gooseberries  are  all  made  in  the 
same  manner.  Pulp  the  fruit  through  a  cane  sieve,  the  meshes  of 
which  are  not  large  enough  to  admit  a  currant  to  pass  through 
whole.  To  each  pound  of  pulp  add  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  broken 
small,  and  boil  to  the  consistence  of  a  jelly. 

Orange  Marmalade — Take  the  same  weight  of  sugar  as  of  oranges; 
cut  the  oranges  in  half,  squeeze  out  the  juice,  and  strain  it ;  boil  the 
peel  in  water  until  they  are  quite  tender,  and  a  strong  straw  may  be 
passed  through  them;  then  drain  them  from  the  water,  scoop  out  the 
pulp,  leaving  the  rind  rather  thin;  cut  it  into  thin  fillets;  boil  the 
juice  of  the  oranges  with  the  sugar,  and  skim  it  when  it  is  nearly 
done ;  add  the  peels,  and  finish  as  others.  Part  of  the  peels  may  be 
pounded  and  mixed  with  the  marmalade,  instead  of  the  whole  being 
cut  in  fillets;  but  then  it  is  not  so  clear,  and  is  a  practice  which  is 
now  almost  abandoned,  except  by  a  few  private  persons.  Lemon 
marmalade  is  made  in  the  same  way. 

[Grape  Marmalade. — Put  green  grapes  into  a  preserving  pan,  with 
eufficient  water  to  cover  them.  Put  them  on  the  fire  and  boil  until 
reduced  to  a  mash  ;  put  the  pulp  through  a  sieve  the  meshes  of  which 
are  not  sufficiently  large  to  admit  the  seed  to  pass  through ;  to  each 
pound  of  pulp  add  two  pounds  of  the  best  loaf  sugar  and  boil  to  the 
consistence  of  a  jelly.] 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  51 


SECTION    XII. OF    FRUIT    AND    OTHER    PASTES. 

Fruit  Pastes  and  Cakes. — These  are  the  pulp  of  fruits,  reduced  by 
h'-'at  to  a  kind  of  marmalade,  with  the  addition  of  from  half  a  pound 
to  a  pound,  and  in  some  cases,  double  the  weight  of  sugar  to  each 
pound  of  pulp,  which  is  evaporated  to  the  required  consistence.  They 
can  be  formed  into  rings,  knots,  &c.,  and  either  crystallized  or 
candied. 

.tipple  or  Pippin  Paste. — Take  any  quantity  of  good  dressing  apples, 
pure,  core  and  put  ihern  into  a  preserving  pan  with  a  little  water,  or 
just  sufficient  to  cover  them.  Boil  until  they  are  reduced  to  a  mar- 
malade, sUrring  them  to  prevent  burning.  To  every  pound  of 
reduced  pulp  add  half  or  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  clari- 
fied and  boiled  to  the  blow ;  pass  the  pulp  through  a  hair  sieve  before 
you  mix  the  sugar  with  it;  put  it  on  the  fire  and  let  it  boil  for  three 
or  four  minutes,  keeping  it  constantly  stirred  from  the  bottom,  when 
it  will  be  sufficiently  evaporated.  If  it  be  required  coloured,  add 
liquid  colour  sufficient  to  give  the  desired  tint  when  you  mix  the 
sugar.  Spread  the  paste  on  small  tin  or  pewter  sheets  (these  should 
be  about  a  foot  wide,  by  a  foot  and  a-half  long,  and  perfectly  level) 
with  a  thin  knife,  about  the  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness;  put  them 
in  the  stove  for  a  day ;  take  them  out,  and  cut  the  paste  into  long 
narrow  strips,  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  width;  if  the  paste  is 
dry  enough,  the  strips  can  be  easily  pulled  off;  form  them  into  rings 
or  knots,  or  cut  into  diamonds  to  form  leaves,  or  any  other  device  your 
fancy  may  suggest.  Put  them  in  boxes  with  a  sheet  of  paper  between 
each  layer.  Tiiis  paste  is  occasionaly  flavoured  with  lemon,  and  is 
principally  used  for  ornamenting  the  tops  of  twelfth  cakes. 

Apple  Cheese. — Pare,  quarter,  and  core  your  apples  as  for  paste ; 
put  them  into  a  jar,  and  cover  the  top  with  the  parings ;  tie  paper 
over  the  top,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven  until  they  are  quite 
done;  take  off  the  parings,  and  pass  the  apples  through  a  hair-sieve 
into  a  preserving  pan.  To  each  pound  of  pulp  add  half  a  pound  of 
loaf  sugar  clarified  and  boiled  to  the  blow ;  place  it  over  a  slow  fire, 
stirring  it  constantly  from  the  bottom  until  reduced  to  a  stiff  paste, 
which  will  not  stick  to  the  hand ;  put  it  into  small  moulds,  hoops,  or 
glasses.  Dry  in  a  moderately  warm  stove  for  a  few  days;  take  them 
out  of  the  moulds,  turn  them,  and  place  them  again  in  the  stove  to 
finish  drying.  Keep  in  boxes  as  paste-knots,  or  cover  the  glasses 
with  brandy  papers. 

Apricot  Paste. — Take  ripe  apricots,  put  them  in  a  preserving  pan 
with  as  much  water  as  will  cover  them;  let  them  simmer  on  the  fire 
for  two  or  three  minutes,  or  scald  until  they  are  tender;  drain  the 
water  from  them,  and  pass  the  pulp  through  a  hair  sieve ;  to  each 
pound  of  pulp  take  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  which  you 
clarify  and  boil  to  the  blow;  put  the  apricots  on  the  fire,  and  let 


53  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

them  simmer,  stirring  them  constantly  until  reduced  to  a  thick  mar- 
malade; then  add  the  sugar;  mix  it  well  with  the  paste,  and  let  it 
hoil  a  minute  or  two  longer;  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  put  into 
moulds,  pots,  or  crimped  paper  cases;  or  it  may  be  spread  on  small 
plates,  as  for  apple  paste,  and  formed  into  rings  or  knots.  Place  in 
the  stove  until  dry.  If  put  in  paper  cases,  the  paper  must  be  wetted 
to  get  out  the  paste.  Take  it  out  of  the  moulds,  turn  it,  and  put  it 
again  into  tho  stove  to  finish  drying. 

Green  Jlpricot  Paste. — Take  apricots  before  they  are  ripe,  scald  as 
the  last,  and  green  them.  (See  Greening  Fruit.)  Pass  the  pulp 
through  a  sieve,  and  reduce  it;  to  each  pound  of  reduced  pulp  add 
one  pound  of  loaf  sugar  clarified  and  boiled  to  the  blow.  Finish  as 
ripe  apricot  paste. 

Currant  Paste. — Put  any  quantity  of  ripe  currants,  either  red  or 
white,  or  a  part  of  each  mixed,  into  a  hair  sieve,  press  out  their  juice 
into  a  preserving  pan;  put  it  on  the  fire,  and  keep  it  constantly  stir- 
red until  evaporated  to  a  thick  consistence.  To  each  pound  of  re- 
luced  pulp  add  three-quarters  of  a  pound  or  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar 
clarified  and  boiled  to  the  blow.  Let  it  boil  a  minute  or  two,  and 
finish  as  others. 

Black  Currant  Paste  is  made  the  same  as  the  last.  These  currants, 
not  being  so  juicy  as  the  others,  may  be  put  into  a  jar,  tied  over,  and 
baked  in  a  moderate  oven,  or  put  into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water  for  a 
few  hours,  to  extract  the  juice  from  them. 

Raspberry  Paste. — As  currant  paste. 

Cherry  Paste. — Take  ripe  cherries,  deprive  them  of  their  stalks 
and  stones,  put  them  in  a  preserving  pan, and  boil  them  a  little;  then 
pass  them  through  a  hair  sieve,  reduce  the  pulp,  and  weigh  it.  To 
each  pound  add  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar;  add  it  to  the  paste,  and  finish 
as  apricot. 

Peach  Paste. — Choose  some  very  fine  and  ripe  peaches,  take  off  the 
skin,  and  cut  them  in  small  pieces  into  a  preserving  pan ;  put  them 
on  the  fire,  and  reduce  to  a  thick  consistence,  stirring  it  continually. 
For  each  pound  of  reduced  pulp  take  half  or  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  sugar;  clarify  and  boil  it  to  the  blow ;  add  it  to  the  pulp; 
put  it  again  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  boil  a  few  minutes.  Finish  as 
other  pastes. 

Plum  Paste. — Plums  of  any  kind  are  preserved  in  the  same  man- 
ner, whether  green-gages,  magnum-bonums,  Orleans,  damsons,  &c. 
Take  out  their  stones,  and  boil  the  fruit  in  a  little  water,  as  for  npri- 
cot  paste;  pass  them  through  a  sieve,  and  for  each  pound  of  reduced 
pulp  take  a  pound  of  sugar;  clarify  and  boil  it  to  the  blow;  mix  it 
with  the  paste,  and  evaporate  to  the  required  consistence. 

Damson  Cheese. — Pick  the  stalks  from  the  damsons,  put  them  in  a 
jar,  tie  it  over,  and  bake  in  a  cool  oven;  when  done,  pass  them 
through  a  sieve  into  a  preserving  pan;  put  it  on  the  fire  to  reduce. 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  53 

For  each  pound  of  pulp  take  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  boiled  to  the 
blow ;  mix  with  the  paste,  and  finish  as  for  apple  cheese.  This,  as 
well  as  all  the  pastes,  may  be  evaporated  to  the  required  consistence 
by  means  of  a  water  bath,  which  is  done  by  placing  the  pan  in  which 
it  is  contained  in  another  with  water,  which  is  kept  boiling;  this  pre- 
vents the  possibility  of  its  being  burnt,  but  it  occupies  more  time. 
The  kernels  of  the  fruit  may  be  blanched  and  added  to  it  just  before 
it  is  taken  from  the  fire.  Put  it  into  moulds  or  hoops;  dry  them  in 
the  stove,  first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other.  All  plums  are 
done  in  the  same  manner. 

Quince  Paste. — Proceed  as  for  apple  paste. 

Orange  Paste. — Squeeze  the  juice  from  Seville  or  sweet  oranges, 
ind  boil  the  peels  in  three  or  four  waters  to  take  off  part  of  their  bit- 
terness. In  the  first  put  a  little  salt.  When  they  are  quite  tender 
remove  tho  white  pith  or  pulp,  and  pound  them  quite  fine  in  a  mortar, 
with  part  of  the  juice,  using  sufficient  to  make  them  into  a  paste; 
then  pass  it  and  the  remaining  portion  of  the  juice  through  a  sieve 
into  a  preserving  pan  ;  put  it  on  the  fire,  and  reduce  to  a  marmalade ; 
weigh  it,  and  for  each  pound  take  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  loaf 
sugar ;  clarify  and  boil  to  the  blow ;  mix  it  with  the  paste,  evaporate 
over  a  gentle  fire  to  a  good  consistence,  and  finish  as  apple.  The 
rinds  of  the  oranges  may  be  pared  off"  before  they  are  squeezed,  which, 
if  boiled  in  one  water,  will  be  sufficient,  as  the  pith  of  the  peel  is 
extremely  bitter  and  indigestible,  and  the  flavour  or  essential  oil  is 
contained  on!y  in  the  yellow  porous  part. 

Lemon  Paste. — Make  as  orange  paste,  using  part  of  the  juice  and 
double  the  weight  of  sugar ;  or  it  may  be  made  by  using  only  the 
pounded  peel  with  the  same  weight  of  sugar. 

Raspberry  Cakes. — Take  ripe  raspberries,  press  the  juice  from  half 
of  them,  and  put  the  pulp  back  with  the  others;  reduce  them  on  the 
fire.  To  each  pound  of  pulp  add  two  pounds  of  loaf  sugar  in  pow- 
der; put  it  again  on  the  fire,  stirring  it  constantly  until  it  is  evapo- 
rated to  a  very  thick  paste.  Have  a  tin  ring,  with  a  handle  by  the 
side,  about  the  size  of  an  old  penny  piece,  and  twice  the  thickness; 
wet  the  ring,  and  place  it  on  your  small  pewter  or  tin  plates,  fill  it 
with  the  paste,  smoothing  over  the  top  with  a  knife ;  then  remove  the 
ring,  and  the  cake  will  remain.  Lay  them  off  in  rows,  and  make 
three  or  four  marks  on  the  top  with  the  handle  of  a  table  spoon  ;  put 
them  in  the  stove  to  dry,  turn  them  with  a  thin  knife,  and  put  them 
again  in  the  stove  to  dry  perfectly.  Place  them  in  boxes,  with  paper 
between  each  layer. 

The  residue  from  the  making  of  raspberry  vinegar  may  be  employ- 
ed for  this  purpose,  or  they  may  be  made  by  adding  a  pound  of  fine 
powdered  sugar  to  a  pound  of  jam.  Any  of  the  fruit  pastes  may  be 
formed  into  cakes  like  these,  or  into  drops,  by  forcing  them  out  oa 
paper  with  a  small  pipe  and  bladder  attached  to  it. 

Clear  Cake.s,  or  Jelly  Cakes.  —  Take  the  filtered  juice  rf  fruits,  aa 


5  -  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

for  jelly  (see  Jellies);  to  each  pint  of  juice  add  one  pound  of  loaf 
sugar,  dissolve  it  in  the  juice  thoroughly,  place  it  on  the  fire  and  heat 
it,  but  it  must  not  boil;  put  it  into  small  pots,  moulds,  or  glasses,  so 
as  to  form  cakes  about  half  an  inch  thick  ;  place  them  on  the  stove, 
which  must  not  be  too  hot,  or  they  will  melt  instead  of  forming  a 
jelly ;  about  seventy-five  or  eighty  degrees  Fahrenheit  is  quite  hot 
enough.  When  a  crust  has  formed  on  the  top,  take  out  the  cakes  by 
carefully  turning  the  knife  round  the  sides  of  the  pot,  place  them  on 
small  plates  of  tin  or  pewter,  and  dry  on  the  other  side.  When  dry 
they  can  be  cut  into  diamonds,  squares,  or  any  shape  you  please. 
These  are  certainly  some  of  the  most  delicate  and  beautiful  of  this 
class  which  were  ever  invented,  fit  even  to  gratify  the  palate  of  the 
most  fastidious.  The  fruit  from  which  they  are  made  should  be 
gathered  as  fresh  as  it  possibly  can,  except  apples,  as  the  mucilage 
is  injured  by  keeping,  and  if  the  fruit  has  fermented  it  is  entirely 
destroyed. 

Pastes  formed  with  Gum  —  Pate  de  Guimauve  —  Marsh-Mallow 
Paste.  —  Gum  Arabic  three  pounds,  roots  of  fresh  marsh-mallows 
eight  ounces,  one  dozen  of  rennet  apples,  loaf  sugar  three  pounds. 
Peel,  core,  and  cut  the  apples  in  pieces.  Cleanse  the  roots,  and 
slice  them  lengthways  in  an  oblique  direction;  add  this  to  seven 
pints  of  water;  soft  or  river  water  is  the  best  when  filtered;  put  it 
on  the  fire  and  boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  or  until  reduced  to  six 
pints ;  pound  and  sift  the  gum  through  a  hair  sieve ;  strain  the  de- 
coction into  a  pan  with  the  gum ;  put  it  on  a  moderate  fire,  or  into  a 
bain-marie,  stirring  it  until  the  gum  is  perfectly  dissolved;  then 
strain  it  through  a  coarse  towel  or  tamis  cloth,  the  ends  being  twisted 
by  two  persons ;  add  it  to  the  sugar,  which  has  been  previously  cla- 
rified and  boiled  to  the  feather ;  dry  it  well  over  the  fire,  keeping  it 
constantly  stirred  from  the  bottom.  When  it  has  acquired  a  thick 
consistence,  take  the  whites  of  eighteen  eggs,  and  whip  them  to  a 
strong  froth ;  add  them  to  the  paste,  and  dry  until  it  does  not  stick  to 
the  hand  when  it  is  applied  to  it ;  add  a  little  essence  of  neroli,  or  a 
large  glassful  of  double  orange-flower  water,  and  evaporate  again  to 
the  same  consistence.  Pour  it  on  a  marble  slab  well  dusted  with 
starch-powder,  flatten  it  with  the  hand  ;  the  next  day  cut  it  into  strips, 
powder  each  strip,  and  put  them  in  boxes.  Powder  the  bottom  that 
they  may  not  stick. 

Pate  de  Gomme  Arabique — Arabic  Paste. — Very  white  gum  Arabic 
two  pounds,  sugar  two  pounds,  orange-flower  water  four  ounces,  the 
whites  of  twelve  eggs.  Pound  and  sift  the  gum,  add  it  to  the  water, 
dissolve  and  evaporate  it  over  a  slow  fire,  or  in  the  bain-marie,  stir- 
ring it  constantly  until  it  is  reduced  to  the  consistence  of  honey  with 
the  sugar  in  syrup.  Whip  the  whites  to  a  strong  snow ;  add  it  to  the 
paste  with  the  orange-flower  water,  gradually ;  stir  and  finish  aa 
marsh-mallow  paste,  for  which  this  is  mostly  substituted,  and  much 
used  for  coughs.  It  should  be  very  white,  light,  and  spongy. 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  55 

P&te  des  Dattes — Date  Paste. —  Dates  one  pound,  gum  Senegal 
three  pounds,  loaf  sugar  in  syrup  two  pounds  and  a  half,  orange- 
flower  water  four  ounces.  Make  as  marsh-mallow  paste,  using  rather 
more  water  to  dissolve  the  gum. 

Pate  des  Jujubes — Jujube  Paste. —  Jujubes  four  ounces,  currants 
washed  and  picked  four  ounces,  raisins  stoned  one  pound,  sugar  two 
pounds,  very  white  gum  Arabic  two  pounds  and  a  half.  Open  the 
jujubes,  and  boil  them  with  the  currants  and  raisins  in  two  quarts  of 
water  until  reduced  to  three  pints,  strain  the  decoction  through  a 
tamis  cloth,  twisted  by  two  persons;  add  the  sugar  in  syrup  with  the 
gum,  which  has  been  previously  pounded  and  dissolved  in  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  water;  evaporate  it  by  a  moderate  heat,  as  pate  de  gui- 
mauve;  pour  it  into  tin  moulds  slightly  oiled,  having  edges  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  deep;  dry  in  the  stove,  take  it  out  of  the  tins,  and 
cut  it  with  a  pair  of  scissors  into  small  diamonds. 

Patede  Gomme  Senegal — Senegal  Paste. — Gum  Senegal  two  pounds, 
sugar  one  pound.  Dissolve  the  gum  in  orange-flower  water  and 
common  water;  or  dissolve  it  in  common  water,  and  flavour  with 
essence  of  neroli ;  add  the  sugar,  when  clarified  and  boiled  to  the 
blow  ;  evaporate,  and  finish  as  pate  de  jujube.  This  is  usually  sold 
for  jujube  paste,  or  else  picked  gum  Arabic  made  into  a  paste  as 
Senegal,  and  coloured  with  prepared  cochineal  or  saffron. 

Pate  de  blanche  Reglisse  —  White  Liquorice  Paste. — This  is  made 
the  same  as  marsh-mallow  paste,  using  liquorice-root  instead  of  mal- 
low. It  may  be  made  without  the  eggs,  and  finished  as  jujubes. 

Pate  de  Reglisse  noir — Black  Liquorice  Paste. — The  best  refined 
liquorice  one  pound,  gum  Arabic  four  pounds,  loaf  sugar  two  pounds, 
Florence  orris-root  one  ounce.  Dissolve  the  gum  and  liquorice  in 
seven  pints  of  water,  keeping  it  stirred  over  a  slow  fire ;  add  the 
sugar  in  syrup  with  the  orris-root,  evaporate  to  a  paste,  and  finish  as 
jujubes. 

Gomme  des  Jujubes — Jujube  Gum. — Jujubes  one  pound,  very  white 
and  picked  gum  Arabic  two  pounds,  powdered  sugar  two  ounces. 
Pound  the  jujubes  in  a  marble  mortar  with  five  pints  of  water,  put 
the  whole  into  a  pan  and  boil  until  reduced  to  three ;  strain  the  decoc- 
tion through  a  cloth,  beat  up  the  white  of  an  egg  with  a  glass  of 
water,  and  mix  part  of  it  with  the  decoction  as  it  boils;  throw  in  a 
little  at  a  time  of  the  remaining  part,  to  check  the  ebullition.  When 
it  is  all  used,  take  off  the  scum,  put  it  again  on  the  fire  to  evaporate 
the  water,  adding  at  the  same  time  the  gum  and  sugar,  powdered  and 
passed  through  a  horse-hair  sieve.  Stir  it  with  the  spatula  until  dis- 
solved. When  it  is  of  the  consistence  of  honey,  place  it  in  the  bain- 
marie,  and  neither  stir  nor  touch  it,  that  it  may  be  clear.  When  it 
has  acquired  body  enough,  so  as  not  to  stick  to  the  back  of  the  hand 
when  applied  to  it,  pour  it  into  moulds  previously  oiled  with  good 
olive  oil,  as  for  jujubes ;  place  in  the  stove  to  finish  drying ;  when 
dry  take  it  out,  and  cut  in  small  pieces. 


56  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

Pate  de  jujube  and  white  liquorice  may  be  done  in  the  same  man- 
ner, using  only  half  the  quantity  of  sugar. 

Gamine  des  Duties. — One  pound  of  dates,  two  pounds  of  very  white 
picked  gum  Arabic,  sugar  two  ounces.  Make  as  jujubes. 

Gum  of  Violets. — Violet  flowers  one  pound,  picked  sum  two  pounds, 
sugar  four  ounces  in  syrup.  Pour  three  pints  of  water  at  the  boiling 
point  on  the  flowers  in  an  earthen  jar;  stop  it  perfectly  close,  and  keep 
it  in  a  warm  place  for  ten  or  twelve  hours;  strain  the  infusion  by  ex- 
pression into  a  flat  pan  or  dish,  place  it  on  an  inclination,  and  let  it 
rest  for  an  hour  that  the  feces  may  subside;  pour  off  the  clear  gently 
from  the  bottom  or  settling,  and  add  to  it  six  grains  of  turnsole 
bruised,  and  six  grains  of  carmine,  as  this  clear  infusion  is  not  suffi- 
ciently coloured  to  give  it  the  beautiful  tint  of  the  violet.  Mix  in  the 
powdered  gum  and  sugar,  stir  it  over  a  moderate  fire  until  dissolved, 
pass  it  through  a  sieve,  and  finish  in  the  bain-marie  as  jujubes. 

Any  of  these  gums,  when  dry,  may  be  crystallized. 

Jllmond  Paste —  Orgeat  Paste.  — One  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  bitter  almonds,  two  pounds  of  sugar.  Blanch 
the  almonds,  and  throw  them  into  clean  cold  water  as  they  are  done, 
to  preserve  their  whiteness ;  let  them  soak  for  a  day,  then  dry  them 
in  a  cloth,  and  pound  them  quite  fine  in  a  mortar,  sprinkling  them 
with  orange-flower  water  or  lemon  juice  to  prevent  their  oiling; 
then  with  a  spatula  rub  them  through  a  fine  wire  sieve ;  what  will 
not  pass  through,  pound  again  until  tiiey  are  quite  fine;  clarify  the 
sugar  and  boil  it  to  the  ball;  mix  the  almonds  with  it,  and  stir  it  well 
over  the  fire  with  the  spatula  until  it  comes  together;  then  take  it 
from  the  fire,  and  put  it  into  an  earthen  pan  to  cool ;  when  cold, 
pound  it  again,  make  it  into  sticks  or  tablets,  dusting  the  board  or 
stone  with  powdered  sugar;  or  put  into  pots,  and  tie  bladder  over  it, 
to  be  used  as  wanted. 

SECTION    XIII. FRUITS    PRESERVED    WITH    SUGAR. 

WET  FRUITS.  —  Most  of  the  fruits  are  first  prepared  by  being 
blanched,  that  is,  boiled  in  water;  they  are  then  drained  and  put  into 
boiling  syrup,  where  they  remain  for  a  day.  The  syrup  being  now 
weakened  with  the  juice  of  the  fruit,  it  is  poured  off,  more  sugar  is 
added,  and  it  is  reduced  again  to  syrup  by  boiling,  and  poured  hot 
over  the  fruit:  this  is  continued  until  it  is  fully  saturated  with  suirar, 
which  may  be  known  by  the  syrup  being  no  longer  weakened  with 
the  juice  of  the  fruit.  Keep  them  in  a  dry  but  not  warm  place,  as 
too  much  heat  will  cause  them  to  ferment,  more  especially  if  they 
are  not  fully  incorporated  with  sugar;  nor  in  a  damp  place,  or  they 
will  become  mouldy. 

All  green  fruits  require  to  be  greened,  so  as  to  bring  them  to  their 
original  colour,  for  in  blanching  they  assume  a  yellowish  cast:  this  is 
probably  occasioned  by  a  portion  of  the  alkali  being  extracted  in  the 


THE    COIVFECTIONEK.  57 

boiling1.  The  green  colour  of  fruits  and  leaves  depends  upon  an 
excess  of  alkali ;  and  in  proportion  as  acid  or  alkali  prevails  in  them, 
so  are  they  coloured  from  red  to  violet,  blue,  and  green ;  therefore  if 
alkali  is  added  to  the  water,  the  colour  is  retained.  This  is  exempli- 
fied in  the  everyday  domestic  duties  of  the  cook,  who  uses  soda,  pot- 
ash, or  muriate  of  soda  (common  salt),  in  boiling  her  greens  or  cab- 
bages. I  have  here  stated  the  principle  on  which  their  colour  depends, 
to  show  that  there  is  no  necessity  for  green  fruits  being  kept  for  some 
time  in  brass  or  copper  pans,  whereby  they  take  up  a  portion  of  ver- 
digris, which  often  proves  injurious. 

Prick  your  fruit  several  times  with  a  fork  or  large  needle,  to  allow 
the  sugar  to  penetrate  the  more  freely.  As  you  do  them,  throw  them 
into  a  pan  of  cold  water,  which  prevents  their  turning  black  at  the 
places  where  they  are  pricked  ;  add  a  little  soda  or  potash,  and  set  the 
pan  by  the  side  of  the  stove  to  heat  gradually,  but  not  to  boil,  or  at 
the  most  only  to  simmer;  when  the  fruit  swims,  take  it  out  with  a 
skimmer  and  put  it  into  cold  water;  if  they  are  not  green  enough, 
drain  them  and  put  them  again  into  the  water  they  were  first  boiled 
in,  or  else  into  a  weak  syrup;  place  them  by  the  side  of  the  stove  to 
heat  gradually  as  before,  stirring  them  occasionally.  They  may  be 
covered  with  vine  leaves,  or  a  handful  of  spinach ;  if  salt  is  used  in 
greening  them,  they  will  require  to  be  soaked  for  a  few  hours  in  clean 
cold  water,  to  again  extract  that  portion  which  they  have  absorbed, 
or  it  will  spoil  their  flavour.  It  is  best  to  blanch  fruits  which  are 
very  juicy  in  hard  or  pump  water,  or  with  the  addition  of  a  little  alum 
to  river  water. 

Green  Jlpricols,  wet. — Get  the  apricots  before  the  stone  is  formed  in 
them,  when  they  can  be  pierced  through  with  a  pin  or  needle ;  put 
them  into  a  bag  with  plenty  of  salt,  and  shake  them  about  in  it  to  take 
off  the  down  and  silkiness  of  the  skin ;  take  them  out  and  put  them  in 
cold  water.  Or  this  may  be  done  by  making  a  strong  ley  with  wood 
ashes;  strain  it  through  a  cloth;  let  it  be  quite  clear;  make  it  boiling 
hot  and  throw  in  your  apricots;  let  them  remain  about  a  minute,  take 
them  out,  and  put  them  into  cold  water ;  then  take  off  the  fur  when 
they  are  cool  by  either  rubbing  them  with  your  hands  in  the  water, 
or  drain,  and  rub  them  in  a  towel  or  coarse  cloth.  Put  them  into 
another  pan  of  cold  water,  and  place  them  over  a  slow  fire  to  heat 
gradually  and  scald.  When  they  are  quite  soft  and  can  be  crushed 
between  the  ringer  and  thumb,  take  them  out  and  throw  them  into 
cold  water;  drain  them  quite  dry  in  sieves;  make  a  thin  syrup,  that 
is,  at  the  small  thread  ;  boil  it  in  a  flat  preserving  pan,  put  in  the 
apricots,  give  them  a  few  boils,  and  take  off  any  scum  that  rises; 
have  sufficient  syrup  in  the  pan  that  the  fruit  may  float;  pour  them 
with  the  syrup  into  an  earthen  pan,  and  keep  them  covered  until  the 
next  day  ;  then  drain  off  the  syrup,  add  more  syrup  or  sugar  to  it,  and 
boil  to  the  large  thread  ;  put  in  the  fruit,  and  let  the  syrup  boil  over 
them  four  or  five  times:  repeat  these  operations  for  five  days,  increas- 


5S  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

ing  the  syrup  a  degree  each  day  until  it  has  attained  the  large  pearl, 
taking  off  the  scum  each  time :  it  must  not  exceed  this,  or  it  will 
crystallize;  put  them  in  dry  pans  covered  with  syrup,  for  use;  or, 
when  cold,  drain  them  from  the  syrup,  and  put  them  into  small  glasses 
by  themselves,  or  mixed  with  other  fruits  preserved  in  the  same  man- 
ner; fill  the  vacancies  with  apple  jelly,  wet  a  piece  of  bladder  and 
tie  it  over  the  top. 

Green  .Apricots,  pared  wet.  —  Pare  off  the  skin  with  a  small  knife, 
and  throw  them  into  cold  water  as  you  do  them ;  green,  and  finish  as 
the  former. 

Ripe  .Apricots,  wet.  —  Have  the  fruit  not  too  ripe,  make  an  incision 
in  the  side  to  take  out  the  stone,  or  they  may  be  cut  in  halves,  and 
peeled  or  preserved  with  the  skin  on;  have  a  preserving  pan  on  the 
fire  with  water  boiling,  throw  them  in,  and  as  they  rise  to  the  top 
take  them  out  and  put  them  into  cold  water.  If  they  are  blanched 
too  much  they  will  break,  therefore  it  is  better  to  have  two  pans  of 
cold  water  to  throw  them  in,  so  as  those  may  be  separated  which  are 
broken  ;  drain  them  from  the  water,  and  put  them  in  a  thin  syrup 
vthich  is  boiling  on  the  fire;  do  not  put  in  too  many  at  a  time;  put 
in  the  hardest  first,  and  give  them  about  a  dozen  boils;  take  them 
out  carefully  and  put  them  in  an  earthen  pan  ;  give  the  soft  ones  only 
two  or  three  boils;  cover  them  with  the  syrup  and  let  them  remain 
until  the  next  day;  drain  the  syrup  from  them,  add  more  sugar  to  it, 
and  boil  and  skim  it  until  it  has  acquired  the  degree  of  the  large 
thread;  give  the  apricots  two  or  three  boils  in  it;  the  soft  ones  only 
require  to  have  the  syrup  poured  on  them  boiling  hot ;  repeat  this  for 
four  or  five  successive  days,  and  on  the  last  day  boil  the  syrup  to  the 
large  pearl.  If  you  find,  after  they  are  finished,  that  the  syrup  has 
been  boiled  too  high,  mix  a  little  powdered  alum  with  a  spoonful  of 
water,  and  add  to  it. 

Ripe  Peaches,  whole,  wet.  —  Get  the  finest  peaches,  without  any 
green  spots  on  the  skin;  prick  them  all  over  with  a  large  needle  to 
the  stone,  throw  them  into  cold  water,  blanch,  and  finish  as  ripe 
apricots. 

Ripe  Nectarines,  wet. — Preserve  as  peaches. 

Figs,  wet. — Get  the  figs  nearly  ripe,  prick  them  four  or  five  times 
with  the  point  of  a  knife,  throw  them  into  cold  water,  put  them  on  the 
fire  and  boil  until  they  are  tender;  finish  as  ripe  apricots. 

Greengages,  wet.— Let  the  fruit  be  not  quite  ripe  but  sound,  prick 
them  with  a  fork  or  needle,  and  throw  them  into  cold  water;  scald 
and  green  them  ;  when  they  are  of  a  fine  green,  increase  the  heat ; 
take  them  out  with  a  skimmer  when  they  swim,  and  throw  them  into 
cold  water;  drain  them  on  sieves;  put  them  in  syrup  that  is  boiling; 
give  them  two  or  three  boils  in  it ;  pour  them  into  an  earthen  pan  ; 
drain  the  syrup  from  them  the  next  day,  add  more  sugar  and  boil  to 
the  thread,  taking  off  any  scum  which  may  arise;  pour  the  syrup 


THE    CONFECTIONEK.  59 

over  them  boiling  hot;  repeat  this  for  five  or  six  days,  and  finish  as 
for  green  apricots. 

Mogul  Plums. — Take  the  largest  Mogul  plums,  with  clear  skins, 
not  quite  ripe,  prick  them  all  over  with  a  fork  and  throw  them  into 
coid'spring  water;  scald..them  until  tender,  taking  care  not  to  have 
too  many  in  the  pan  at  a  time,  nor  blanch  them  too  much,  as  they 
will  soon  break  in  pieces;  take  them  out  and  throw  them  into  cold 
water,  drain,  and  put  in  just  sufficient  fruit  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the 
pan ;  cover  with  boiling  syrup,  and  let  them  have  a  dozen  boils  in  it; 
finish  as  ripe  apricots. 

It  would  be  a  needless  repetition,  to  give  separate  directions  far 
preserving  every  sort  of  plum,  as  the  instructions  already  given  will 
enable  any  person  of  ordinary  discernment  to  manage  any  other  sort 
not  mentioned. 

Damsons,  wet. — Prick  the  damsons  and  throw  them  into  boiling 
syrup,  and  let  them  boil  in  it  until  the  skins  burst,  skimming  it  as 
they  boil;  do  not  put  in  any  more  than  will  swim;  let  them  remain 
until  the  next  day ;  drain  the  syrup,  and  add  more  sugar  to  bring  it 
to  the  proper  degree;  give  them  a  few  boils  in  it,  and  repeat  the  same 
on  the  next  day ;  finish  as  other  plums. 

Green  Gooseberries,  wet. — Get  some  fine  large  gooseberries,  prick 
them  three  or  four  times  with  a  large  needle,  and  throw  them  into 
cold  water;  put  them  on  the  fire  to  blanch;  when  they  rise  tnl>; 
them  out  and  throw  them  into  cold  water,  green  them,  and  preserve 
as  green  apricots. 

Green  Gooseberries  in  the  form  of  Hops,  wet. — Take  the  finest  green 
gooseberries  for  this  purpose,  slit  each  gooseberry  in  four  or  six  slits, 
but  so  as  not  to  come  asunder,  and  take  out  the  seeds.  Take  a  needle 
and  white  thread,  make  a  knot  at  the  end,  and  pass  the  needle  through 
the  stalk  end  of  the  gooseberry  that  is  split ;  take  another  and  do  the 
same,  making  the  end  of  one  go  partly  into  the  other;  continue  this 
until  you  have  six  or  eight  on  the  thread,  which  will  resemble  a  hop; 
fasten  the  end  of  the  thread,  and  dispose  of  all  of  them  in  the  same 
manner,  throwing  them  into  cold  water  as  they  are  finished  :  blanch 
them,  and  let  them  lie  in  the  water  they  were  blanched  in  all  night; 
the  next  day  green  them,  and  finish  as  for  green  gooseberries,  wet. 

Cucumbers  or  Gherkins,  wet.  —  Let  them  be  clear,  free  from  all 
spots,  and  of  a  good  green ;  prick  them  all  over  with  a  fork,  throw 
them  into  a  pan  of  water  mixed  with  a  handful  of  salt,  let  them  lie  in 
this  for  a  day  or  two,  then  take  them  out,  put  them  into  fresh  water 
and  blanch  them  until  tender ;  the  next  day  drain  and  green  them  in 
a  weak  syrup;  increase  the  degree  of  the  syrup  each  day,  giving 
them  a  few  boils  in  it  each  time;  if  the  cucumbers  are  large,  you  can 
cut  them  in  two  and  take  out  the  seeds.  After  the  second  boiling  in 
the  syrup,  let  them  remain  in  it  for  two  or  three  days  before  it  is 
boiled  again  :  finish  as  green  apricots ;  a  few  pieces  of  ginger  may  be 
added. 


60  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

Green  Melons. — Proceed  as  for  encumbers.  They  may  be  preserved 
either  whole  or  in  slices.  When  dried  and  candied,  it  imitates  green 
citron. 

Ripe  Melons,  wet. — Cut  the  melons  in  slices,  and  pare  off  the  out- 
side skin  ;  let  them  lie  in  salt  and  water  for  two  or  three  days,  take 
them  out,  drain  and  blanch  in  fresh  water  until  tender ;  throw  them 
into  cold  water;  when  cold,  drain  them  on  sieves;  give  them  a 
boil  in  thin  syrup  the  next  day,  increase  the  degree  of  the  syrup,  and 
pour  it  boiling  hot  over  them.  A  little  lemon-juice,  vinegar,  or  a 
handful  of  bruised  ginger  may  be  added  to  the  syrup,  which  will  much 
improve  the  flavour;  boil  the  syrup,  increasing  it  a  degree  for  three 
or  four  days,  as  for  other  fruits. 

Lemons  whole,  wet.  —  Choose  some  fine  large  lemons  with  clear 
skins,  carve  the  rind  with  a  small  penknife,  into  flowers,  stars,  diamonds, 
or  any  design  your  fancy  may  suggest,  taking  care  not  to  cut  deeper 
than  the  white  pith  of  the  peel ;  throw  them  into  a  pan  of  cold  water, 
put  them  on  the  fire  and  let  them  boil  gently  until  a  strong  straw  or 
the  head  of  a  pin  will  penetrate  the  rind  ;  throw  them  into  cold  water; 
when  cold,  drain  them  dry,  and  put  them  into  a  thin  syrup  when  boil- 
ing ;  give  them  five  or  six  boils  in  it,  and  put  them  in  an  earthen  pan; 
the  next  day  drain  the  syrup  from  them,  and  add  more  sugar  or  syrup 
to  increase  it  a  degree ;  boil  it  and  when  it  boils,  pour  it  over  the 
lemons:  repeat  this  for  two  days ;  on  the  third  day  let  the  lemons  boil 
in  the  syrup  for  four  or  five  minutes;  the  next  day  boil  the  syrup  and 
pour  it  over  them;  when  you  find  the  syrup  has  penetrated  the 
lemons,  and  they  look  clear,  drain  the  syrup  from  them,  adding  more 
if  necessary,  so  as  to  have  sufficient  to  keep  them  well  covered ;  put 
them  in  glasses,  and  pour  the  syrup  over  them.  When  cold,  cut  a 
piece  of  bladder  to  the  size  of  the  glass,  wet  it,  and  tie  it  down. 

Oranges  whole,  wet. — These  are  preserved  the  same  as  lemons. 

Whole  Orange  Peels. — Choose  your  oranges  of  a  fine  clear  skin  ; 
make  a  hole  at  the  stalk  end,  large  enough  to  admit  the  end  of  a 
spoon,  with  which  you  take  out  the  pulp;  throw  them  in  salt  and 
water,  and  let  them  remain  for  three  or  four  days  or  a  week  ;  drain 
them  from  this,  and  put  them  into  a  pan  of  fresh  water,  and  let  them 
boil  until  the  end  of  a  straw  may  be  pushed  through  the  peel  ;  throw 
them  into  cold  water;  with  the  end  of  a  spoon  clear  out  any  part  of 
the  pulp  which  may  have  adhered  to  them;  drain  off  the  water;  put 
them  in  a  tub  or  pan,  and  pour  boiling  syrup  over  them  ;  let  them 
remain  in  this  for  three  or  four  days;  take  them  from  the  syrup  and 
boil  it  again,  adding  more  as  the  peels  imbibe  it,  so  as  to  keep  them 
well  covered ;  boil  the  syrup  once  every  four  or  five  days,  and  pour 
it  hot  over  them ;  do  this  until  it  has  fully  penetrated  them. 

Orange  or  Lemon  Peels,  wet. — Cut  the  fruit  in  half;  express  the 
juice,  and  throw  the  peels  into  salt  and  water,  as  for  whole  orange 
peels,  preserving  them  in  the  same  way.  If  you  have  any  quantity, 
put  them  one  in  the  other,  and  pack  them  in  rows  round  the  bottom 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  61 

of  a  large  tub  or  cask  ;  proceed  in  this  manner,  putting  them  in  lay- 
ers until  it  is  half  or  three  parts  full ;  have  a  hole  near  the  bottom, 
with  a  cork  fitted  into  it.  When  the  syrup  requires  boiling,  draw  it 
oft'  at  the  hole. 

Orange  or  Lemon  Chips. — Cut  the  thickest  peels  into  long  thin 
pieces,  turning  them  off  so  as  to  make  but  one  or  two  chips  from  a 
peel,  in  a  similar  manner  as  you  would  pare  off  the  rind  of  an  apple, 
only,  instead  of  holding  the  knife  in  an  oblique  direction,  so  as  to 
take  off  the  surface,  it  is  held  more  parallel,  so  as  to  cut  the  whole 
substance  of  the  peel.  Let  them  be  as  near  as  possible  of  the  same 
thickne.^,  or  the  peel  may  be  sliced  across,  so  as  to  form  rings;  pre- 
serve them  as  for  whole  orange  peels.  If  they  are  wanted  in  a  hur- 
ry, they  may  be  blanched  without  being  put  into  salt  and  water.  Boil 
them  until  they  can  be  crushed  between  the  finger  and  thumb;  drain 
them  from  the  water,  and  pour  boiling  syrup  over  them  as  for  others. 

Angelica,  wet. — Cut  some  stalks  of  fine  tender  angelica  into  pieces 
about  six  inches  long,  or  any  other  suitable  length.  Put  them  into  a 
pan  of  water  on  the  fire  until  they  are  soft,  then  put  them  into  cold 
water;  draw  off  the  skin  and  strings  with  a  knife,  and  put  them  into 
cold  water  again  ;  next  boil  them  until  they  look  whitish  ;  let  them 
cool;  drain  them  from  the  water,  and  put  them  in  an  earthen  pan; 
pour  boiling  syrup  over  them  until  they  float.  The  next  day  drain  it 
off,  without  disturbing  the  angelica;  boil  with  more  sugar,  if  re- 
quired, taking  off  any  scum  which  may  rise;  pour  it  over  the  stalks 
whilst  it  is  hot;  repeat  this  for  seven  or  eight  days,  builing  the  syrup 
the  last  time  to  the  large  pearl. 

Eringo  Root. — Choose  your  roots  without  knots ;  wash  them  clean, 
and  boil  in  water  until  they  are  tender;  peel  oft'  the  outside  skin,  slit 
them,  take  out  the  pith,  and  throw  them  into  cold  water ;  drain,  put 
them  into  a  thin  syrup,  and  give  them  a  few  boils;  afterwards  finish 
as  angelica. 

Pine  Apple  whole,  wet.  —  Take  oft'  the  top  and  stem  of  the  pine  ; 
prick  the  apple  with  a  pointed  knife  in  six  or  eight  places,  or  more,  to 
the  centre ;  put  the  pine  in  a  pan  with  plenty  of  water,  and  boil  it 
until  tender ;  take  it  out  and  throw  it  into  cold  water ;  when  cold, 
drain  it  quite  dry,  and  pour  over  it,  boiling  hot,  some  syrup  at  the 
small  thread.  In  two  days  pour  off  the  syrup  and  boil  it  to  a  degree 
higher,  adding  more  sugar  if  necessary;  repeat  this  every  third  day, 
until  the  pine  is  sufficiently  impregnated  with  the  sugar;  the  last 
time  the  sugar  must  be  at  the  large  pearl.  The  top  of  the  pine  is 
greened  and  preserved  as  other  green  fruits,  putting  it  in  its  proper 
place  when  finished.  Carefully  skim  the  sugar  each  time,  that  the 
pine  may  be  quite  clear. 

Pine  Apple  Chips  or  Slices.  — Take  off  the  top  and  stalk,  and  pare 
the  outside  of  the  pine;  cut  it  into  slices  half  an  inch  thick;  strew 
over  the  bottom  of  a  pan  with  powdered  sugar ;  cover  it  with  slices 
6 


«r. 

62  THE    rONFEC.TIONEH. 


of  pine-apple,  then  a  layer  of  sugar,  and  again  of  pine,  and  so  alter- 
nately until  the  whole  is  disposed  of,  covering-  the  top  with  a  layer 
of  sugar ;  place  it  in  a  warm  place  or  stove  for  three  or  four  days; 
then  boil  it  with  the  juice  of  two  or  three  lemons  for  ten  minutes  or 
a  quarter  of  an  hour,  taking  off  any  scum  which  rises.  If  the  syrup 
is  too  thick,  add  a  little  water;  continue  this  boiling  for  three  or  four 
days,  when  it  will  be  fit  for  use. 

Cherries,  wet  or  dry.  —  Take  the  best  Kentish  or  May  Duke  cher- 
ries; cut  a  quill  as  if  you  were  going  to  make  a  pen,  only,  instead  of 
its  being  sharp,  it  must  be  round  at  the  end  ;  hold  the  cherry  in  your 
left  hand,  and  with  the  other  push  the  quill  into  it  by  the  side  of  the 
stalk,  as  far  as  the  top  of  the  stone ;  then  take  hold  of  the  stalk,  and 
with  the  aid  of  the  quill  pull  the  stone  out  with  the  stalk,  without 
breaking  the  fruit  in  pieces,  which  would  be  the  case  otherwise.  Put 
sufficient  clarified  sugar  into  a  preserving  pan  for  the  cherries  to 
swim;  boil  it  to  the  blow,  and  throw  in  the  prepared  fruit;  let  them 
boil  in  it  for  five  or  ten  minutes,  keeping  them  under  the  syrup  by 
pushing  them  down  with  a  flat  piece  of  wood  having  a  handle  at  the 
back.  The  next  day  drain  off  the  syrup;  reduce  it  by  boiling;  put 
in  the  cherries  and  boil  them  again  for  five  minutes;  repeat  this  for 
four  days,  giving  the  cherries  a  few  boils  in  the  syrup  each  day.  If 
they  are  required  dry,  drain  the  syrup  from  them,  spread  them  on 
sieves,  and  dry  in  the  stove  at  a  good  heat,  turning  them  every  day. 
Put  only  sufficient  on  the  sieves  so  as  just  to  cover  the  bottom.  Keep 
them  in  boxes  prepared,  or  in  glasses. 

Whole  Cherries.  —  Shorten  the  stalks  of  some  fine  cherries  ;  put 
them  into  an  earthen  pan,  with  a  layer  of  powdered  sugar  and  a  layer 
of  cherries,  covering  the  top  with  sugar;  let  them  stand  for  two  or 
three  days  ;  put  them  on  the  fire  in  a  preserving  pan,  and  let  them 
boil  in  the  syrup  for  three  or  four  minutes;  repeat  this  for  four  days. 
Keep  them  in  syrup,  or  dry,  when  they  are  wanted,  as  the  preceding ; 
they  may  also  be  tied  together  to  form  bunches,  and  preserved  in  the 
same  manner. 

Grapes  in  Bunches. — Get  some  bunches  of  fine  grapes,  before  they 
are  perfectly  ripe ;  take  out  the  stones  with  a  large  pin  or  needle  ;  put 
them  in  a  preserving  pan,  with  plenty  of  water  and  a  little  salt ;  let  them 
simmer  on  the  fire  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  cover  the  pan,  and  let 
them  stand  in  this  water  until  the  next  day  ;  pour  this  off,  and  add 
fresh ;  in  a  few  hours  drain  them  dry,  and  put  them  into  a  thin  syrup, 
which  must  be  boiling  on  the  fire  ;  give  them  a  few  boils  in  it,  or  the 
grapes  may  be  put  into  the  syrup  when  cold,  and  heat  it  gradually 
until  it  boils ;  put  them  in  an  earthen  pan ;  the  next  day  drain  off  the 
syrup,  reduce  it  to  the  small  pearl,  adding  more  sugar  if  necessary, 
and  skimming  it;  pour  it  boiling  over  the  grapes;  repeat  this  four  or 
five  times,  finishing  with  syrup  at  the  large  pearl,  and  keep  them 
well  covered  in  it. 

Currants  in  Bunches,  wet. — Take  the  finest  currants  you  can  get, 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  63 

either  red  or  white ;  stone  them  with  a  pin  or  the  nib  of  a  pen,  tak- 
ing care  not  to  cut  them  more  than  is  necessary ;  tie  six  or  eight 
bunches  together  with  a  piece  of  thread,  or  they  may  be  tied  to  a 
wnall  piece  of  stick.  Take  as  much  clarified  sugar  as  will  allow  the 
currants  to  float;  or  put  one  pound  of  sugar  to  each  pound  of  cur 
rants;  clarify  and  boil  it  to  the  blow  ;  put  in  your  fruit,  and  let  them 
have  five  or  six  boils  :  take  the  scum  off  with  paper;  repeat  the  boil- 
ing next  day  when  they  are  finished.  If  you  boil  them  again,  the 
byrup  will  become  a  jelly,  when  you  can  put  them  in  glasses. 
Barberries  in  Bunches,  wet. — Proceed  as  for  currants. 
Raspberries,  whole,  wet. — Take  the  finest  and  driest  raspberries  you 
can  get,  but  not  over-ripe.  Take  the  same  quantity  of  sugar  in 
weight  as  you  have  of  raspberries  ;  clarify  and  boil  it  to  the  blow ; 
put  in  the  fruit,  and  give  them  a  dozen  boils,  taking  off  the  scum 
with  paper;  drain  off  the  syrup,  and  put  them  into  pots  that  are  very 
dry ;  cover  them  with  apple  jelly,  or  make  a  jelly  with  the  syrup  the 
raspberries  were  boiled  in,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  currant  or 
cherry  juice  when  cold.  Tie  them  over  with  brandy  papers  and 
bladder. 

Pears,  whole,  wet.— Take  some  fine  large  pears,  either  eating  or 
baking,  but  those  for  eating  must  not  be  too  ripe;  they  are  fit  for  this 
purpose  when  the  pips  are  black.  Throw  them  into  a  pan  of  water, 
with  two  ounces  of  alum  ;  put  them  on  the  fire,  and  scald  them  until 
tender;  take  them  out,  and  throw  them  into  cold  water;  pare  off  the 
rind  very  thin  and  even ;  prick  them  several  times  with  a  fork  or  pin 
to  the  core,  and  scald  them  again  until  they  are  quite  soft,  or  until 
the  head  of  a  pin  or  straw  will  pass  through  them ;  a  little  lemon 
juice  may  be  added  to  the  water  in  the  second  boiling,  or  with  the 
syrup;  when  they  are  finished  blanching,  throw  them  into  cold  water; 
when  cold  drain  them  from  this,  and  put  them  into  a  thin  syrup  at 
the  small  thread ;  give  them  two  or  three  boils  in  this;  skim,  and  put 
them  in  an  earthen  pan ;  the  next  day  drain  off  the  syrup,  and  add 
more  sugar,  and  reduce  it  another  degree;  boil  your  pears  in  it,  as 
before,  and  repeat  the  process  for  four  days,  finishing  with  the  syrup 
at  the  large  pearl.  Keep  them  in  covered  pans  for  use. 

Pears,  Red,  wet. — Take  some  good  baking  or  other  pears ;  pare 
and  cut  them  in  half,  and  take  out  the  cores  with  a  little  scoop  for  the 
purpose;  if  they  are  first  blanched  a  little,  they  can  be  pared  easier 
and  better.  Boil  them  in  water,  with  sugar  sufficient  to  make  it  only 
just  sweet,  a  little  lemon  juice,  and  a  few  allspice  or  cloves.  Put  u 
piece  of  pewter,  or  a  pewter  spoon,  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  and 
boil  them  until  they  are  quite  tender  and  of  a  fine  red  ;  or  prepared 
cochineal  may  be  added  instead,  using  sufficient  to  give  the  desired 
tint;  take  out  the  fruit,  and  add  enough  sugar  to  the  water  they  were 
boiled  in  to  make  a  syrup;  boil  to  the  large  thread;  put  in  the  pears, 
and  give  them  two  or  three  boils  in  it;  skim,  and  put  them  in  an 
earthen  pan;  boil  the  syrup  twice  more,  and  pour  it  on  them,  raising 
it  to  the  degree  of  th.e  large  pearl.  Keep  them  in  dry  pans  for  use. 


THE    CONFECTIONER. 

Quinces,  Red  or  White,  wet. — Preserve  as  pears. 

For  these  preserves  it  is  a  good  plan  to  have  flat  pieces  of  wood, 
like  covers,  to  put  on  the  fruit,  so  as  to  keep  it  under  the  syrup. 

Ginger,  wet. — This  article  is  mostly  imported  from  India  and  China, 
in  jars  or  pots.  Divide  the  largest  races  or  roots  from  the  smaller 
ones;  take  largest  for  preserving,  as  the  smaller  ones  will  serve  for 
planting;  clean  and  cut  the  roots  into  neat  pieces,  and  throw  them 
into  cold  water  as  you  do  them.  Boil  them  three  times  in  fresh  water, 
throwing  them  into  cold  each  time,  or  soak  them  in  water  for  four  or 
five  days;  drain,  and  boil  in  fresh  water  till  tender;  take  them  out, 
and  throw  them  into  cold  water,  in  which  has  been  mixed  a  little 
lemon  juice  or  vinegar;  peel  them,  and  throw  them  into  the  water 
again  as  they  are  done,  to  keep  them  white;  let  the  roots  remain  in 
this  a  few  hours,  then  drain  them  dry  on  sieves;  put  them  in  an 
earthen  pan;  pour  over  them,  when  cold,  a  thin  syrup,  at  the  small 
thread;  let  them  be  well  covered  with  the  syrup;  in  two  or  three 
days  drain  off  the  syrup;  add  more  sugar,  and  boil  to  the  large  thread  ; 
when  cold  pour  it  over  the  ginger.  After  three  or  four  days  boil  the 
sugar  a  degree  higher,  and  pour  it  in  hot;  continue  this  until  your 
roots  look  clear  and  are  fully  impregnated  with  sugar ;  finish  with  the 
syrup  at  the  large  pearl. 

Candied  Fruit. — Any  fruit  or  peel  which  has  been  first  preserved 
in  syrup  may  be  candied. 

Take  the  fruit  out  of  the  syrup  and  let  it  drain  on  sieves;  then  dip 
the  sieve  with  the  fruit  into  lukewarm  water,  to  wash  off  the  syrup 
from  the  surface;  take  it  out,  let  it  drain,  and  dry  it  in  the  stove. 
Boil  some  fresh  syrup  to  the  blow;  put  in  the  fruit  and  give  it  a  boil 
in  it.  The  fruit  when  it  is  put  in  will  reduce  the  sugar,  it  must  there- 
fore be  boiled  to  the  same  degree  again.  With  a  spoon  or  spatula 
rub  the  sugar  against  the  side  of  the  pan,  to  grain  it;  when  it  begins 
to  whiten  put  the  fruit  in  the  white  part  separately:  with  two  forks 
take  it  out  and  lay  it  on  sieves  or  wire  frames,  for  the  sugar  to  drain 
from  it. 

Dried  Fruit. — Any  of  those  fruits  which  are  preserved  with  syrup 
may  be  dried:  they  are  also  better  when  fresh  dried.  Warm  the 
fruit  in  the  syrup ;  take  it  out  and  drain  ;  spread  it  on  sieves  or  wires ; 
put  them  in  the  stove  to  dry,  turning  them  frequently  until  perfectly 
dried.  When  the  fruit  is  drained  from  the  syrup,  it  may  be  dusted 
with  loaf-sugar  when  you  put  it  in  the  stove,  and  for  two  or  three 
times  when  you  turn  it.  Too  much  heat  will  blacken  the  fruit, 
therefore  let  the  heat  of  the  stove  be  about  100°  or  110°  of  Fahren- 
heit's thermometer. 

SECTION    XIV. COMPOTES. 

THESE  are  prepared  in  the  same  way  as  wet  fruits,  and  served  in 
compotiers,  which  are  deep  glass  dishes  belonging  to  the  dessert 
service. 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  65 

In  summer,  ripe  fruits  are  simply  blanched  and  boiled  up  in  a  thin 
syrup,  a  little  lemon-juice  is  added,  and  served ;  these  are  only  for 
present  use.  Tn  winter,  take  those  fruits  which  are  preserved  in 
syrup,  drain,  dip  them  in  luke-warm  water,  and  serve  in  a  thin  syrup, 
with  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 

Green  Apricot  Compote. — Prepare  your  fruit  as  for  green  apricots, 
wet;  throw  them  into  syrup  that  is  boiling;  take  them  off  the  fire, 
and  let  them  remain  for  four  or  five  hours ;  drain  off  the  syrup,  and 
boil  to  the  thread ;  pour  it  over  the  fruit;  when  cold,  serve. 

Ripe  Apricot  Cvmpoie. — Cut  the  apricots  in  half,  and  peel  them ; 
blanch  them  in  water  that  is  just  sweetened;  drain  them  from  this; 
add  sugar  to  the  water,  and  boil  to  the  thread ;  pour  it  over  the  apri- 
cots; let  them  remain  in  it  for  two  or  three  hours;  then  drain  and 
boil  the  syrup  again  to  the  large  thread  ;  pour  it  over  the  apricots; 
add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  with  some  of  the  kernels  blanched ;  when 
cold,  serve. 

Peaches,  nectarines,  and  green-gages  are  done  as  these. 

Compote  of  Apples,  with  Jelly. — Pare  some  fine  pippins  very  neat- 
ly ;  core  them  with  an  apple  corer;  put  them  into  syrup,  and  boil 
gently;  put  only  just  sufficient  syrup  to  cover  them,  that  it  may  be 
reduced  to  a  jelly ;  if  it  has  not  body  enough,  cut  a  few  in  pieces  and 
put  with  it;  when  the  apples  look  clear  and  are  tender,  take  them 
out;  add  to  the  apples,  while  boiling,  the  juice  and  yellow  rind  of  a 
lemon,  with  a  few  cloves.  Strain  the  syrup,  and  reduce  it  to  a  jelly  ; 
pour  part  into  the  compotier,  and  when  cold  dress  the  apples  taste- 
fully on  it.  The  hole  where  the  core  was  taken  out  may  be  filled 
with  any  sort  of  marmalade  or  jelly.  Cut  the  remaining  part  of  the 
jelly  in  pieces  or  croutons,  and  place  round  or  over  them ;  orna- 
ment them  with  red  currant  or  other  jelly,  in  any  way  that  your 
fancy  may  dictate. 

Apple  Compote. — Take  some  fine  apples;  peel  and  cut  them  in 
halves,  quarters,  or  thick  slices,  and  take  out  the  cores;  blanch  them 
in  a  very  thin  syrup  until  tender;  take  them  out,  and  add  more  sugar 
to  that  which  they  were  boiled  in,  with  the  yellow  peel  and  juice  of  a 
lemon  and  a  few  cloves ;  reduce  it  to  the  small  pearl ;  put  in  the 
apples,  and  give  them  a  few  boils  in  it;  let  them  remain  until  cold ; 
take  off  the  scum,  if  any;  strain  the  syrup,  and  serve. 

Pears  and  quinces  are  done  as  these,  or  coloured  as  for  pears  wet, 
which  see. 

Grape  Compote. — Pick  and  stone  some  fine  ripe  grapes;  put  them 
in  boiling  syrup  at  the  large  pearl;  give  them  three  or  four  boils  in 
it;  let  them  cool,  take  off  the  scum,  and  serve. 

Currant  Compote. — Take  the  largest  currants  you  can  get,  either 
red  or  white;  pick  out  the  seeds,  and  throw  them  into  boiling  syrup 
at  the  large  pearl ;  give  them  two  or  three  boils,  and  let  them  stand 
in  the  syrup ;  take  off  the  scuin,  and  serve  when  cold. 
6* 


C6  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

Raspberry  Compote. — Choose  some  very  fine  and  dry  raspberries ; 
boil  some  syrup  to  the  blow,  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  throw  in  the 
raspberries;  let  them  stand  for  four  or  five  hours;  stir  them  gently  ; 
put  them  on  the  fire,  and  let  the  syrup  just  boil;  take  off  the  scum, 
and  when  cold  serve. 

Strawberry  Compote. — Take  off  the  stalks,  and  throw  them  into 
syrup  at  the  small  thread  ;  when  it  is  near  boiling1,  take  them  off,  let 
them  cool,  and  serve;  or  they  may  be  prepared  by  putting  them  in 
the  compotier,  and  covering  them  with  white  currant  jelly  warrneri 

Macedoinc  of  Fruits. — Put  some  of  all  sorts  of  fruits,  prepared 
compotes,  together,  and  serve  in  the  same  glass,  with  syrup  and  a 
little  lemon-juice. 

Cherry  Compote. — Cut  off  the  stalks  of  some  fine  cherries  about 
half  way ;  wash  them  in  cold  water,  and  let  them  drain  quite  dry ; 
boil  some  syrup  to  the  large  pearl;  throw  in  the  cherries,  and  let 
them  boil  quickly  for  five  or  six  boils;  take  them  off,  and  let  them 
remain  until  cold  ;  take  off  the  scum,  if  any,  and  dress  them  in  the 
compotier,  with  their  stalks  upwards;  pour  in  the  syrup,  and  serve, 
adding  the  juice  of  lemon. 

Damsons,  mulberries,  Orlean  plums,  and  barberries  are  done  the 
same  way,  taking  out  the  stones  of  the  plums  and  barberries;  the 
cherries  may  be  also  stoned. 


SECTION    XV. BRANDY    FRUITS. 

ALL  fruits  may  be  preserved  with  brandy ;  but  only  the  best  sort 
of  plums,  such  as  apricots,  magnum-bonums,  peaches,  green-gages, 
mirabelles,  &c.,  with  cherries  and  pears,  are  those  usually  done. 

The  fruit  should  be  gathered  before  it  is  perfectly  ripe,  when  it  is 
prepared  by  blanching,  &c.,  precisely  the  same  as  if  it  were  intended 
for  wet  fruits;  those  preserved  in  this  manner  are  often  taken  from 
their  syrup  and  put  in  brandy;  when  the  fruits  are  blanched  put  them 
for  a  day  or  two  in  a  thin  syrup,  then  take  them  out  and  arrange  them 
in  glasses;  cover  them  with  white  brandy,  into  which  you  have 
mixed  five  ounces  of  powdered  white  sugar  candy,  and  tie  them  over 
with  bladder.  Cherries  are  an  exception  to  this  rule.  Take  some 
fine  Morello  cherries,  and  cut  off  half  the  stalk;  put  them  into  brandy, 
and  stop  them  close  for  a  month  ;  drain  off  the  brandy,  and  to  each 
quart  add  eight  ounces  of  powdered  loaf  sugar  or  white  sugar  candy  ; 
dissolve  and  pour  it  over  the  cherries.  Keep  them  well  covered  with 
spirit. 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  6t 


SECTION    XVI. ON  BOTTLED  FRUITS,  OR  FRUITS  PRESERVED 

WITHOUT     SUGAR. 

CHOOSE  wide-mouthed  bottles,  which  are  made  for  this  purpose; 
]et  them  be  clean  and  perfectly  dry  ;  gather  the  fruit  during  dry 
weather,  and  fill  the  bottles  if  possible  on  the  same  day;  shake  the 
fruit  well  down  by  knocking  the  bottom  edge  of  the  bottle  on  the 
table;  prepare  some  corks  or  bungs  (which  are  made  for  fruit  bottles 
by  being  cut  the  contrary  way  of  the  grain);  pour  b  iling  water  over 
them,  which  will  deprive  them  of  any  smell  or  di/t ;  repeat  this  a 
second  time,  if  necessary,  letting  them  remain  in  the  water  each 
time  until  it  is  cold ;  cork  the  bottles  well,  and  tie  them  over  with 
wire  or  string.  M.  Appert  recommends  that  they  should  be  luted 
with  a  mixture  made  of  fresh  slaked  lime  and  soft  cheese;  this  is  to 
be  spread  on  rags  and  tied  over  the  mouth  of  the  bottle ;  they  are 
then  placed  in  a  boiler  and  cold  water  as  far  as  their  mouths ;  a  cover 
is  put  on  with  a  piece  of  linen  round  it  to  prevent  evaporation,  the 
water  is  then  heated  to  boiling,  and  is  kept  at  this  point  undl  it  ia 
considered  that  the  fruit  is  boiled  in  their  own  water  or  juice ;  the 
fire  is  then  withdrawn,  and  they  are  suffered  to  remain  in  the  water 
for  an  hour,  when  it  may  be  drawn  off.  The  method  which  I  in 
general  pursue  is  to  raise  the  water  to  the  boiling  point,  and  keep  it  at 
this  heat  for  about  an  hour,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  fruit;  they 
are  then  suffered  to  remain  in  the  water  until  it  is  cold.  I  find  this 
way  generally  successful.  When  they  are  taken  out,  cover  the 
mouth  of  the  bottle  with  melted  rosin  or  bottle  wax. 

This  method  is  much  superior  to  that  of  preparing  them  with  water, 
which  renders  the  fruit  flat,  dead,  and  insipid,  the  whole  of  the  fla- 
vour of  the  fruit  being  imparted  to  the  water,  except  when  bottled 
very  green,  when  it  does  not  lose  it  so  much. 

A  method  t  have  tried  with  pretty  good  success,  is  to  obtain  the 
fruit  before  it  is  ripe,  bottle  it,  and  fill  the  bottles  with  cold  spring 
water,  in  which  are  dissolved  some  oxymuriate  of  potass,  cork  them 
close,  and  cover  the  mouths  with  rosin.  Plums  done  in  this  way  had 
the  natural  bloom  on  them.  I  found  these  were  better  than  those 
done  in  a  similar  manner  by  heat.  A  few  bottles  of  them  fermented. 
After  the  fermentation  was  over  I  corked  them  close,  and  in  six 
months  I  opened  some,  when  they  had  a  smell  like  wine,  and  were 
not  so  flat  as  those  which  were  well  preserved  by  heat,  and  filled 
with  water  ;  these  certainly  look  well  to  the  eye,  but  they  are  only 
fit  to  be  used  for  large  pies,  when  the  water  should  be  made  into  a 
syrup  with  sugar,  and  put  in  with  it. 

The  first  method,  which  is  the  same  as  Appert's,  or  nearly  so,  is 
decidedly  the  best;  it  retains  the  natural  flavour,  and  may  be  used 
for  any  purpose  it  is  required,  it,  being  as  good  as  fresh  fruit. 


68  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

The  pulp  or  juice  of  fruits  may  also  be  preserved  in  the  same  way } 
if  the  fruit  is  not  ripe  enough  to  pulp,  put  it  into  a  jar,  and  stop  it 
close,  place  it  in  a  kettle  of  cold  water,  heat  it  until  it  boils,  and  let 
it  continue  at  this  point  for  ten  minutes  or  a  quarter  of  an  hour;  take 
it  out  and  pass  the  pulp  through  a  hair-sieve  j  bottle,  and  finish  as 
before. 

This  method  of  M.  Appert's  is  not  altogether  original,  but  was  an- 
ticipated by  the  experiments  of  Mr.  Boyle.  A  system  somewhat  on 
the  same  principle  has  been  practised  by  many  in  the  trade  for  years, 
which  is  this.  The  fruit  is  bottled  and  carefully  corked,  the  bottles 
are  then  placed  on  the  top  of  the  oven,  where  they  are  suffered  to 
remain  for  twenty-four  or  forty-eight  hours,  according  to  the  tempera- 
ture, which  is  generally  from  120°  to  140°  Fahrenheit's  thermometer. 
Atone  place  I  ascertained  the  heat  during  the  process,  and  it  averaged 
130°.  Another  system  practised  is  that  of  heating  the  bottles  in  a 
cool  oven. 

The  principle  endeavoured  to  be  accomplished  is  to  destroy  the 
small  portion  of  oxygen  contained  in  the  bottle  after  being  corked,  by 
converting  it  into  carbonic  acid  gas;  but  some  other  unknown  agent 
must  be  produced,  as  this  may  be  done  without  heat,  which  the  fer- 
mentation of  the  fruit  would  cause  by  itself;  for,  according  to  the 
experiments  of  Hildebrand,  had  the  oxygen  of  the  atmosphere 
remained  unaltered,  it  would  have  caused  putrefaction ;  for  he  found 
that  oxygen  mixed  with  a  small  quantity  of  azote,  promoted  putrefac- 
tion more  than  pure  oxygen.  He  found  that  hydrogen  gas  was  the 
greatest  preservative,  nitrous  next,  and  after  this  carbonic.  These 
Experiments  were  tried  on  meat,  but  they  may  be  equally  applicable 
In  respect  to  fruit,  when  the  auxiliary  produced  by  heat  is  not 
definitely  known. 

Fruit  should  always  be  bottled  and  boiled  on  the  same  day  it  is 
gathered  ;  for  the  longer  the  fruit  lies  together  the  more  it  sweats ; 
fermentation  commences,  which  is  accelerated  in  the  bottles  by  heat, 
and  there  is  great  danger  of  their  bursting. 

All  decayed  or  bruised  fruit  should  be  carefully  excluded,  and  that 
should  be  preferred  which  is  not  quite  ripe. 

When  finished,  the  bottle  should  be  kept  in  a  cool  dry  place. 

SECTION    XVII. OF  COOLING    DRINKS    FOR    BALLS    AND    ROUTS. 

THESE  may  be  made  either  with  fresh  fruit,  jam,  or  syrups.  The 
last  merely  requires  the  addition  of  water  and  lemon-juice  to  make 
them  palatable. 

Gooseberry,  Currant,  Raspberry,  and  Strawberry  Waters.  —  Mash 
either  of  these  fruits  when  ripe,  and  press  out  the  juice  throirgh  a 
hair-sieve,  add  a  little  water  to  it,  and  give  it  a  boil;  then  filter  it 
through  a  flannel  bag,  some  syrup,  a  little  lemon-juice  and  water,  to 
make  it  palatable,  but  rich,  although  not  too  sweet,  which  is  often  the 
fault  with  these  and  compotes  ;  ice  them  the  same  as  wine,  and  serve. 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  69 

Cherry  Water. — Pound  the  cherries  with  the  stones  to  obtain  the 
flavour  of  the  kernel,  and  make  as  above. 

Jjpricot  and  Peach  Water  as  cherry  water :  or,  if  made  from  jam, 
add  a  few  bitter  almonds  pounded  quite  fine,  using  a  little  water  and 
lemon-juice  to  pound  them  with;  add  them  to  the  jam  with  water 
and  lemon-juice  to  palate;  strain  it  through  a  lawn  sieve,  ice,  and 
serve. 

Orgeat  Water. —  Blanch  half  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds  and  one 
ounce  of  biiter;  pound  them  very  fine  in  a  mortar,  using  water  to 
prevent  their  oiling ;  use  one  quart  of  water  and  a  glass  of  orange- 
flower  water,  and  make  as  directed  for  orgeat  syrup;  add  sugar  to 
palate,  strain  it  through  a  lawn  sieve,  ice,  and  serve. 

Lemonade.  —  Rub  off  the  yellow  rinds  of  six  lemons  on  sugar; 
squeeze  out  their  juice,  and  add  to  it  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water,  and 
half  a  pint  of  syrup,  the  white  of  an  egg,  with  the  sugar  which  has 
imbibed  the  oil  from  the  rind ;  mix  them  well  together  ;  if  not  to 
your  palate,  alter  it;  strain  through  a  flannel  bag,  ice,  and  serve. 

Orangeade  is  made  as  lemonade,  using  China  oranges  instead  of  the 
lemons. 


SECTION    XVIII. ICES. 

[THERE  is  no  article  of  the  dessert  kind  that  deserves  a  more  ele- 
vated position  than  well-made  ices,  as  well  for  their  intrinsic  merit 
..a  for  the  agreeable  gout  which  they  impart  to  a  well-got-up  enter- 
tainment. 

Philadelphia  has  for  a  long  time  enjoyed  a  pre-eminent  reputation 
in  the  manufacture  of  these  delicious  compounds  ;  the  rage  however 
for  cheap  articles,  without  a  due  regard  to  their  merits,  has  made  sad 
inroads  into  the  business;  and,  in  order  to  accommodate  this  spirit  of 
retrenchment,  ignorant  pretenders  have  consented  to  the  base  prac- 
tice of  making  inferior  articles,  which  they  palm  off  on  the  unwary 
under  the  specious  guise  of  economy.  With  these  persons  it  is  a 
custom  to  use  three-fourths  milk  and  only  one-fourth  of  the  legiti- 
mate article,  cream,  and,  in  order  to  procure  a  sufficient  body,  to  in- 
termix boiled  flour,  arrowroot,  or  potatoe  flour ;  also  to  flavour  with 
tartaric  acid  instead  of  fresh  lemons,  tonquin  bean  instead  of  vanilla, 
and  inferior  fruits  when  the  best  only  should  be  used. 

We  mention  these  facts  in  order  to  caution  young  beginners  against 
any  such  fatal  mistakes.  The  best  ingredients  should  always  be 
used.  Obtain  your  cream  invariably  fresh  from  a  dairyman  who  is 
tenacious  of  his  reputation,  and  who  is  known  to  produce  a  pure  rich 
article;  it  cannot  be  too  good,  and  if  not  used  immediately  should  be 
kept  in  ice  until  wanted.  Good  cream  cannot  be  had  (even  where 
large  quantities  are  used)  for  a  less  price  than  twenty  cents  per 
quart.  Use  cream  entirely,  and  on  no  account  mingle  the  slightest 


70  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

quantity  of  milk,  which  detracts  materially  from  the  richness  and 
smoothness  of  the  ices.  Always  use  the  finest  flavoured  to  he  ob- 
tained, and  follow  implicitly  the  following  very  copious  directions, 
and  you  will  be  certain  to  be  rewarded  by  a  fine  article,  of  which 
you  may  well  be  proud  :] 

Utensils  requisite  for  making. — 1st.  Pewter  pots  of  various  sizes, 
suitable  to  the  quantity  of  mixture  intended  to  be  frozen.  Tin  or 
zinc  will  not  answer  the  purpose,  as  it  congeals  the  mixture  too 
quickly  without  allowing  it  a  sufficient  time  to  become  properly  in- 
corporated, and  forms  it  in  lumps  like  hailstones. 

2d.  Half  pint,  pint,  pint  and  a  half,  and  quart  moulds,  and  some  in 
the  form  of  fruits  made  to  open  in  the  centre  with  a  hinge :  these 
also  require  to  he  made  of  the  same  material. 

3d.  Ice  pails.  These  should  be  adapted  to  the  size  of  the  pots, 
about  the  same  depth,  and  eight  or  ten  inches  more  in  diameter;  if 
even  greater,  it  is  immaterial,  the  depth  being  the  principal  consider- 
ation, for  the  deeper  it  is  the  greater  caution  is  required  to  prevent 
the  salt  from  entering  the  mixture;  for  as  the  ice  dissolves,  the  pot 
descends,  and  the  water  runs  under  the  cover,  which,  being  salt, 
spoils  the  contents;  neither  have  you  a  sufficient  basis  whereon  the 
pot  rests  so  as  to  mix  your  creams,  &c.,  with  the  spatula;  conse- 
quently, half  your  exertions  are  lost  by  its  constant  sinking  when  you 
apply  the  least  effort  to  scrape  it  from  the  sides.  There  should  be  a 
hole  near  the  bottom,  with  a  cork  fitted  into  it,  so  as  to  be  drawn  at 
pleasure,  that  the  water  may  be  allowed  to  run  off'  when  there  is  too 
much. 

4th.  The  spatula.  This  is  an  instrument  somewhat  resembling  a 
gardener's  spade ;  it  should  be  made  of  stout  copper  and  tinned,  the 
blade  being  about  four  inches  long  by  three  in  width,  round  at  the 
end,  and  having  a  socket  to  receive  a  wooden  handle ;  this  is  for 
scraping  the  cream,  &c.,  from  the  sides  of  the  pot  as  it  freezes,  and 
for  mixing  it. 

5th.  Either  a  large  mortar  and  pestle,  or  a  strong  box  and  mallet 
for  pounding  the  ice. 

6th.  A  spade  wherewith  to  mix  the  ice  and  salt  together,  fixing 
your  pails,  &c. 

7th.  A  tin  case  or  box,  with  a  kind  of  drawer  fitted  to  it  so  as  to 
be  drawn  out  at  pleasure,  and  having  shelves  or  divisions ;  this  is  for 
keeping  the  ices  in  the  form  of  fruits,  after  they  are  finished,  until 
required  for  the  table. 

To  freeze  Ices. — This  is  accomplished  through  the  medium  of  ice. 
Of  itself  it  does  not  contain  sufficient  frigorific  power  to  congeal  a 
liquid  body  to  the  required  consistence  without  an  auxiliary ;  the 
usual  one  employed  is  that  of  salt.  As  a  general  rule,  take  about 
two  pounds  to  every  six  pounds  of  ice,  which  1  think  wil!  be  learly 
the  quantity  required.  I  cannot  state  precisely,  as  it  is  the  custom 
to  mix  it  by  guess ;  but  note,  the  freezing  quality  depends  on  the 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  71 

quantity  of  salt  which  is  used,  consequently,  the  more  there  is  mixed 
with  the  ice  the  quicker  are  the  creams,  &c.,  frozen. 

Pound  a  sufficient  quantity  of  ice  small,  and  let  some  salt  be  well 
mixed  with  it;  place  the  pot  containing  the  mixture  in  a  pail,  which 
you  fill  (the  latter)  with  pounded  ice  and  salt  as  far  as  the  lid ;  strew 
a  handful  of  salt  on  the  top  of  the  ice,  let  it  remain  a  few  minutes  until 
you  have  similarly  disposed  of  others,  as  three  or  four  may  be  done  at 
a  time  if  required,  then  whirl  them  round  briskly  by  means  of  the 
handles  for  five  minutes,  take  off  the  lids  one  at  a  time,  and  with  the 
spatula  stir  or  carry  the  unfrozen  part  well  round  the  sides,  turning1 
the  pot  also  with  the  left  hand ;  continue  this  for  two  or  three  minute?, 
which  serves  to  soften  what  has  already  frozen,  as  well  as  helps  to 
freeze  the  remaining  portion ;  then  scrape  it  from  the  sides,  put  on 
the  lids,  whirl  round  again  briskly,  as  before  directed,  repeating  the 
game  operations  every  four  or  five  minutes.  As  it  forms  into  con- 
sistence, do  not  spare  your  labour  in  well  working  or  mixing  it 
together  when  you  scrape  it  down,  so  as  to  make  it  perfectly  smooth 
and  free  from  lumps,  for  the  smoothness  of  your  ice  depends  on  this 
operation  ;  continue  to  freeze  until  the  whole  is  well  set.  Ice  when 
well  frozen  should  be  about  the  consistence  of  butter,  tough  to  the 
feel,  of  a  good  colour,  and  without  any  lumps  in  it.  Those  which 
contain  too  much  syrup  cannot  be  frozen  to  the  degree  required,  and 
those  which  have  too  little  freeze  hard,  and  feel  short  and  crisp,  like 
compressed  or  frozen  snow,  which  arises  from  having  too  many  watery 
particles  in  it,  by  the  excess  of  either  water  or  milk  according  to  the 
nature  of  your  ice.  In  either  case  it  may  be  ascertained  when  you 
commence  freezing,  by  the  first  coat  which  is  formed  round  the  sides. 
It  should  then  be  altered  by  either  adding  more  cream  or  water,  with 
juice,  or  pulp  of  fruit,  or  other  flavouring  matter  in  proportion,  as  the 
case  may  be,  if  too  rich,  and  vice  versa,  by  the  addition  of  more  syrup, 
&c.,  when  poor;  but  at  all  times  the  necessity  of  altering  them  should 
be  avoided,  as  the  component  parts  cannot  be  so  perfectly  blended 
together,  without  considerable  extra  labour,  as  if  they  were  properly 
mixed  at  the  commencement. 

During  the  time  of  freezing,  or  after  the  creams,  &c.,  are  moulded 
and  set  up,  if  there  is  too  much  water  in  the  pail,  the  frigorific  power 
is  lessened ;  a  little  increases  it,  as  at  first  it  is  only  a  solution  of  the 
salt ;  but  as  the  ice  dissolves  and  mixes  with  it,  it  decreases;  there- 
fore, when  it  comes  to  the  top  drain  it  off,  and  fill  up  with  fresh  salt 
and  ice. 

When  the  ices  are  properly  frozen,  take  out  the  pots,  drain  off  the 
water,  empty  the  pail,  again  replace  them  and  fill  them  with  fresh 
Bait  and  ice,  as  before ;  then  spread  the  creams  over  the  sides  of  the 
pot,  when  they  are  ready  for  use,  if  they  are  intended  to  be  served  in 
a  shop  or  by  glassful  Is.  Should  it  be  required  for  moulds,  line  the 
bottom  with  a  piece  of  paper,  before  you  put  it  on ;  if  there  is  no  im- 
pression or  figure  on  the  top,  you  may  cover  that  also  with  paper ;  in 
filling  them  press  it  well  in,  so  as  to  fill  every  part;  leave  a  little  pro- 


72  THE    CONFECTIONER, 

jecting  above  the  surface  to  form  the  top,  which  you  put  on  ;  pack 
the  moulds  in  a  pail,  and  fill  the  vacancies  with  pounded  ice  well 
mixed  with  plenty  of  salt,  strew  a  handful  also  on  the  top. 

Ices  should  be  moulded  from  half  an  hour  to  an  hour  before  they 
are  required  to  be  served. 

When  you  want  to  turn  them  out,  wash  the  mould  well  in  cold 
water  that  no  salt  may  remain  on  it;  take  off  the  bottom  and  top>  and 
the  ice  will  come  out  easily. 

For  fruit  moulds,  fill  each  with  either  cream  or  water  ice  of  the 
same  kind  as  that  which  you  would  represent,  and  for  the  better  re- 
semblance to  nature,  preserve  the  stone  with  the  stalk  and  leaves  of 
each,  which  put  in  their  proper  places,  allowing  the  leaves  to  project 
outside;  close  the  mould,  wrap  it  in  paper,  and  place  it  in  ice  as 
others;  when  you  want  to  turn  them  out,  wash  the  shape  in  luke- 
warm water  to  take  off  the  paper,  and  be  careful  that  you  do  not 
injure  the  leaves,  as  they  will  often  be  found  frozen  to  it ;  dip  it  again 
in  water,  open  it  and  take  out  the  ice,  which  you  colour  to  nature 
with  camel's-hair  pencils  and  liquid  colour  (see  Colours);  the  down 
or  bloorn  is  represented  by  dusting  it  with  dry  colour  in  powder,  tied 
in  a  small  thin  muslin  bag,  or  by  means  of  a  dry  camel's-hair  pencil ; 
line  the  shelves  of  the  case  with  paper  or  vine  leaves,  and  put  in 
the  fruit  as  it  is  finished  ;  let  the  case  be  surrounded  vviih  pounded  ice 
and  salt,  as  for  moulds. 

Ices  may  be  divided  into  three  classes,  viz :  cream,  custard,  and 
water.  These  derive  their  names  from  the  basis  of  which  they  are 
composed,  the  flavouring  matter  mixed  with  it  giving  the  other  defi- 
nition:  thus  we  say,  raspberry  cream  and  raspberry  water;  but  cus- 
tard ices  are  not  so  particularly  defined  as  the  others  by  the  basis,  and 
either  only  receives  the  name  of  the  flavour  given  to  it,  or  as  that  of 
cream. 

Cream  Ices,  —  These  are  composed  entirely  of  pure  fresh  cream, 
with  the  juice  or  pulp  of  fruit  either  fresh  or  preserved,  and  syrup  or 
sugar  so  blended  together  as  the  taste  of  one  may  not  predominate 
over  that  of  another ;  but  if  either  is  in  excess  it  should  be  that  of 
the  fruit. 

Raspberry  of  fresh  fruit.  —  One  quart  of  raspberries,  one  quart  of 
cream,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  or  a  pound  of  sugar,  a  few  ripe 
currants  and  gooseberries,  or  currants  and  ripe  cherries  may  be  added, 
instead  of  all  raspberries,  which  is  much  approved  by  some,  and  the 
juice  of  two  lemons;  *  mash  the  fruit,  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve  to 
take  out  the  skins  and  seeds ;  mix  it  with  the  other  articles ;  add  a 
little  prepared  cochineal  to  heighten  the  colour;  pnt  it  in  the  pot  and 
freeze.  

*  The  quantity  of  fruit  required  for  these  ices  will  depend,  in  a  great 
measure,  on  the  quality  of  the  fruit  and  the  seasons  in  which  it  is  pro- 
duced ;  a  pint  and  a  half  will  be  found  sufficient  when  it  is  good  in  fine 
seasons ;  the  quantity  stated  in  each  weight  is  the  greatest  required. 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  7& 

Note. — All  ices  made  with  red  fruit  require  this  addition  of  cochi- 
neal. 

Raspberry,  from  Jam.  —  One  pound  of  jam,  one  quart  of  cream, 
about,  six  ounces  of  sugar  or  syrup,  to  palate,  and  the  juice  of  two 
lemons.  Mix  as  before. 

Strawberry. — As  raspberry. 

Currant  Ice  from  fresh  Fruit. — One  pint  and  a  half  of  ripe  currants, 
half  a  pint  of  raspberries,  one  quart  of  cream,  the  juice  of  two 
lemons,  and  twelve  ounces  of  sugar.  Mix  as  raspberry. 

Currant  Ice. — Preserved  Fruit. — The  same  proportions  as  raspberry, 
using  either  jam  or  jelly. 

Barberry  Ice. — Use  the  sameproportions  as  before.  For  fresh  barber- 
ries, first  soften  them  by  either  boiling  them  in  the  syrup  you  intend 
to  use,  or  put  them  in  a  stew-pan,  and  stir  them  over  the  fire  until 
tender  ;  pass  them  through  a  sieve,  mix,  and  freeze  as  raspberry.  The 
barberries,  having  much  acid,  do  not  require  any  lemon-juice  to  be 
mixed  with  them. 

Apricot. — Fresh  Fruit. — Twenty-four  fine  ripe  apricots,  one  quart  of 
cream,  twelve  ounces  of  sugar,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  with  a  few 
of  the  kernels  blanched ;  mash  the  apricots,  rub  them  through  a  sieve, 
mix,  and  freeze. 

Jlpricot,  from  Jam. — Twelve  ounces  of  jam,  one  quart  of  cream, 
the  juice  of  two  lemons,  eight  ounces  of  sugar,  a  few  kernels  or  bit- 
ter almonds  blanched  and  pounded  fine ;  rub  the  whole  through  a 
sieve,  and  freeze. 

Peach  Ice. — The  same  proportions  as  apricot. 

Pine  Apple — Fresh  Fruit. — One  pound  of  fresh  pine  apple,  half  a 
pint  of  syrup  in  which  a  pine  has  been  preserved,  two  or  three  slices 
of  pine  apple  cut  in  small  dice,  and  the  juice  of  three  lemons ;  pound 
or  grate  the  apple,  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  mix,  and  freeze. 

Pine  Apple — Preserved  Fruit. — Eight  ounces  of  preserved  pine,  four 
slices  cut  in  small  dice,  one  quart  of  cream,  the  juice  of  three  lemons, 
and  sufficient  syrup  from  the  pine  to  sweeten  it;  pound  the  preserved 
pine,  mix  lemons  with  the  cream,  &c.,  and  freeze. 

Ginger  Ice, — Six  ounces  of  preserved  ginger,  one  quart  of  cream, 
half  a  pint  of  the  syrup  from  the  ginger,  sugar  sufficient  to  sweeten 
it  with,  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons;  pound  the  ginger  in  a  mortar, 
add  the  cream,  <fec.,  and  freeze. 

[Brahma  Ice. — One  quart  of  cream,  the  whites  of  ten  eggs,  one 
and  a  half  pounds  of  powdered  sugar  of  the  best  quality  ;  mix  the 
whole  in  a  tip  saucepan ;  put  it  on  the  fire,  stirring  constantly,  until 
it  boils  oncfc ,  then  add  two  wine-glasses  of  Curacoa,  half  a  glass  of 
orange-flower  water;  put  it  into  the  pot,  and  freeze.] 

Orange  Ice  Cream. — Six  oranges,  three  lemons,  one  quart  of  crearn, 
7 


74  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

and  twelve  ounces  of  sugar  or  of  syrup,  to  palate;  rub  off  the  yel- 
low rind  of  two  or  three  of  the  oranges  on  part  of  the  sugar,  scrape 
it  off  with  a  knife,  squeeze  out  the  juice  of  the  oranges  and  lemons, 
and  strain  it;  mix  it  with  the  cream  and  the  sugar  on  which  the  rind 
was  rubbed,  add  the  other  part  of  the  sugar,  dissolve  and  freeze. 

China  Orange  Ice  Cream. — Eight  oranges,  two  lemons,  one  quart 
of  cream,  twelve  ounces  of  sugar  ;  rub  off  the  rind  of  four  or  five  of 
the  oranges  and  one  lemon  on  sugar,  squeeze,  and  strain  the  juice; 
add  the  cream,  fcc.,  mix,  and  freeze. 

Cherry  Ice  Cream. — Two  pounds  of  cherries,  one  quart  of  cream, 
and  twelve  ounces  of  sugar  or  syrup;  pound  the  cherries,  with  the 
stones,  in  a  mortar,  adding  a  few  ripe  gooseberries  or  currants  if  ap- 
proved of;  pass  the  pulp  through  a  sieve,  add  the  cream  and  sugar 
with  the  juice  of  two  lemons  and  a  little  cochineal,  mix,  and  freeze. 

With  preserved  fruit  it  is  made  the  same  way,  adding  a  little 
noyau,  or  a  few  bitter  almonds  pounded  for  the  flavour  of  the  kernel. 

[Harlequin  Ice. — This  is  formed  by  putting  a  small  quantity  of  each 
kind  of  ice  into  the  same  mould,  taking  care  to  have  as  great  a  va- 
riety of  colours  as  possible  placed  so  as  to  produce  a  contrast;  cover 
the  mould  with  salt  and  ice  as  before  directed,  and  let  it  remain  half 
an  hour,  when  it  will  be  fit  to  turn  out.  When  the  colours  are  tastily 
disposed  of,  it  produces  a  good  effect  for  the  table,  but  is  not  much  ad- 
•  mired  on  account  of  the  jumble  of  flavours.] 

Lemon  Ice  Cream. — Six  large  lemons,  one  quart  of  cream,  and 
twelve  ounces  of  sugar  or  half  pint  of  syrup;  grate  off  the  peels  of 
three  of  the  lemons  into  a  basin,  squeeze  the  juice  to  it,  let  it  stand 
for  two  or  three  hours,  strain,  add  the  cream  and  syrup,  and  freeze  or 
mix  as  Seville  orange  ice. 

Mille  Fruit  Cream  Ice. — Make  a  lemon  cream  ice,  and  flavour  it 
with  elder  flowers,  mix  in  some  preserved  dried  fruits  and  peels  cut 
in  small  pieces.  Before  it  is  moulded,  sprinkle  it  with  prepared  co- 
chineal, and  mix  it  a  little,  so  as  it  may  appear  in  veins  or  marbled. 

Custard  Ices. — These  are  similarly  composed  to  the  cream  ices, 
with  the  addition  of  six  eggs  to  each  quart  of  cream.  All  kinds  of 
nuts,  liqueurs,  essences,  infusions,  or  biscuits,  are  principally  mixed 
with  it. 

Custard  for  Ices. — One  quart  of  cream,  six  eggs,  and  twelve  ounces 
of  powdered  loaf  sugar;  break  the  eggs  into  a  stew-pan,  and  whisk 
them  together ;  add  the  cream  and  sugar ;  when  well  mixed,  place 
it  on  the  fire,  and  continue  stirring  it  from  the  bottom  with  the  whisk, 
to  prevent  burning;  until  it  gets  thick;  take  it  from  the  fire,  con- 
tinue to  stir  it  for  a  few  minutes,  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve.  If  the 
custard  be  suffered  to  boil,  it  will  curdle. 

Plombiere  Ice,  or  Swiss  Pudding. — Take  one  pint  and  a  half  of 
cream  and  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  make  them  into  a  custard  witl 
seven  yolks  of  eggs;  flavour  it  either  with  Curac,oa,  Maraschino,  or 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  75 

rum ;  freeze  the  custard,  and  add  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  dried 
cherries,  orange,  lemon,  and  citron  peel,  and  currants;  mix  these  in 
the  iced  custard.  The  Cura^oa,  or  rum,  &c.,  may  be  poured  over  the 
tVuit  when  you  commence  freezing1,  or  before,  which  I  consider  pre- 
Iciabie  to  flavouring  the  custard.  Prepare  the  mould,  which  is  round, 
and  something  in  the  shape  of  a  melon,  made  to  open  in  the  centre 
u  >:h  a  hinge.  Strew  over  the  inside  with  some  clean  currants^  fill 
the  mould,  and  close  it;  immerse  it  in  some  fresh  ice  mixed  with 
wit.  Before  it  is  required  to  be  turned  out,  prepare  a  dish  a3 
i->i'ou  s : — 

The  Sauce.. — Make  a  little  custard,  and  flavour  it  with  brandy ; 
dissolve  some  isinglass  in  water  or  milk,  and  when  it  is  nearly  cold 
add  sufficient  to  the  custard  to  set  it ;  pour  it  into  the  dish  you  intend 
tn  serve  it  on.  As  soon  as  it  is  set,  turn  out  the  pudding  on  it  and 
eel  ve. 

Almond  or  Orgeat  Ice  Cream. — One  quart  of  cream,  eight  ounces 
of  sweet  almonds,  two  ounces  of  bitter  almonds,  twelve  ounces  of 
sugar,  and  two  ounces  of  orange-flower  water ;  blanch  the  almonds, 
and  pound  them  quite  fine  in  a  mortar,  using  the  orange-flower  water 
in  pounding,  to  prevent  their  oiling:  rub  them  through  a  sieve,  and 
pound  again  the  remaining  portion  which  has  not  passed  through, 
until  they  are  fine  enough;  then  mix  them  with  the  cream,  and  make 
it  into  a  custard  with  eggs,  as  the  preceding ;  strain,  and  when  cold, 
freeze. 

Pistachio  Ice  Cream. — One  quart  of  cream,  eight  ounces  of  pis- 
tachios, and  twelve  ounces  of  sugar;  blanch  and  pound  the  pistachios 
with  a  little  of  the  cream  ;  mix  and  finish  as  orgeat  ice,  flavouring  it 
with  a  little  essence  of  cedrat,  or  the  rind  of  a  fresh  citron  rubbed  on 
sugar ;  or  the  custard  may  be  flavoured  by  boiling  in  it  a  little  cinna- 
mon and  mace  and  the  rind  of  of  a  lemon. 

Filbert  Ice  Cream. — One  quart  of  cream,  one  pound  of  nuts,  and 
twelve  ounces  of  sugar  or  one  pint  of  syrup;  break  the  nuts,  and  roast 
the  kernels  in  the  oven ;  when  done,  pound  them  with  a  little  cream, 
make  a  custard,  and  finish  as  almond  ice. 

Chestnut  Ice. — As  the  preceding,  taking  off  the  husks  and  skin. 

Burnt  Filbert  Ice  Cream. — Use  the  same  proportions  as  in  filbert 
ice ;  put  the  kernels  into  the  syrup,  and  boil  till  it  comes  to  the 
blow;  stir  the  sugar  with  a  spatula,  that  it  may  grain  and  adhere  to 
the  nuts;  when  cold,  pound  them  with  the  sugar  quite  fine;  make 
a  custard,  and  mix  them  with  it,  allowing  for  the  sugar  that  is  used 
for  the  nuts;  mix,  and  freeze  as  the  others. 

Burnt  Almond  Ice  Cream. — Make  as  burnt  filbert  ice. 

Coffee  Ice  Cream. — One  quart  of  cream,  five  ounces  of  Mocha  coffee, 
and  twelve  ounces  of  sugar  ;  roast  the  coffee  in  a  coarse  iron  or  other 
stew-pan,  keeping  it  constantly  stirred  until  it  is  a  good  brown  colour; 


"6  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

throw  it  into  the  custard  cream  whilst  it  is  quite  hot,  and  cover  it 
closely ;  let  it  infuse  for  an  hour  or  two,  then  strain  and  freeze. 

The  cream  may  be  made  with  an  infusion  of  coffee,  thus:  take  the 
quantity  of  coffee,  fresh  roasted  and  ground  to  a  fine  powder ;  put  this 
into  a  common  glass  bottle  or  decanter,  and  pour  on  it  sufficient  cold 
river  water  to  moisten  the  powder  and  make  an  infusion ;  stop  the 
bottle  close,  and  let  it  remain  all  night;  the  next  day  filter  the  infu- 
sion by  passing  it  through  some  fine  lawn  or  blotting  paper  placed  in 
a  glass  funnel ;  by  this  process  a  very  strong  and  superior  infusion  is 
obtained,  which  contains  the  whole  of  the  aroma  of  the  coffee.  Dr. 
Ratier  observes,  —  "I  have  tried  this  process  with  boiling  and  with 
cold  water;  nnd  I  have  assured  myself,  by  comparison,  that  the  pow- 
der drained  by  the  cold  water,  and  treated  then  with  boiling  water, 
gave  nothing  but  a  water  slightly  tinted  with  yellow,  and  devoid  of 
odour  and  flavour.  It  is,  besides,  proper  to  pass  an  equal  quantity  of 
water  to  the  first,  over  the  grounds,  in  order  that  the  second  water 
may  serve  for  new  powder."  Use  this  for  flavouring  the  custard, 
and  freeze. 

Chocolate  Ice.  —  One  quart  of  cream,  six  ounces  of  chocolate,  and 
ten  ounces  of  sugar ;  dissolve  the  chocolate  in  a  little  water,  or  make 
the  sugar  into  a  syrup,  and  dissolve  it  by  putting  it  on  the  side  of  the 
stove,  or  over  the  fire ;  add  the  cream  and  eggs,  and  make  it  into  a 
custard  as  before ;  when  cold,  freeze. 

Tea  Ice. — One  quart  of  cream,  two  ounces  of  the  best  green  tea, 
nnd  twelve  ounces  of  sugar ;  put  the  tea  into  a  cup,  and  pour  on  it  a 
little  cold  river  water  in  which  has  been  dissolved  a  small  portion  of 
carbonate  of  soda,  about  as  much  as  may  be  placed  on  a  fourpenny 
piece ;  let  it  remain  for  an  hour  or  two,  then  add  a  little  boiling 
water,  sufficient  in  the  whole  to  make  a  very  strong  infusion ;  or  the 
boiling  water  may  be  dispensed  with,  adding  more  cold  water  in  pro- 
portion, and  letting  it  soak  longer,  when  a  superior  infusion  will  be 
obtained ;  strain  it,  and  add  to  the  cream  and  eggs.  Finish  as  the 
others. 

Vanilla  Ice. — One  quart  of  cream,  half  an  ounce  of  vanilla,  twelve 
ounces  of  sugar;  cut  the  vanilla  into  small  pieces,  and  pound  it  with 
the  sugar  until  it  is  quite  fine,  add  it  to  the  cream  and  eggs,  make  it 
into  a  custard,  strain,  and  when  cold  freeze,  or  it  may  be  flavoured 
with  the  essence  of  vanilla.  (See  Essences). 

Noyau  Cream  Ice.  —  Make  a  custard  cream,  and  flavour  it  with 
noyau  ;  finish  as  almond  ice. 

Maraschino  Cream  Ice. — Make  as  noyau,  flavouring  it  with  Mara- 
schino de  Zara.  All  liqueur  ices  are  made  the  same  way,  using  the 
different  liqueurs  with  which  each  is  named,  or  they  may  be  made  in 
this  way  : — Take  a  quart  of  cream,  put  it  into  the  ice-pot  with  six 
ounces  of  sugar,  which  you  place  in  the  ice;  work  or  whisk  it  well 
about  the  sides  with  a  whisk  for  five  minutes ;  add  a  glassful  of 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  77 

liqueur,  work  this  well  together,  then  whisk  the  whites  of  two  eggs 
to  a  strong  froth,  add  two  ounces  of  sugar  to  them,  mix  this  well  with 
the  cream,  and  freeze  to  the  required  consistence.  This  produces  a 
very  beautiful,  soft,  and  mellow  cream. 

Water  Ices.  —  These  are  the  pulp  or  juice  of  fruits  mixed  with 
syrup,  lemon  juice,  and  a  little  water,  so  as  to  bring  them  to  a  good 
h'iivour  and  consistence  when  frozen. 

Currant  Water  Ice. — Two  pounds  of  ripe  currants,  eight  ounces  of 
raspberries  and  ripe  cherries,  one  pint  of  syrup,  and  one  pint  of  water. 

Pick  and  mash  the  fruit,  and  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  add  the 
syrup  and  water,  put  it  in  the  ice-pot  and  freeze. 

Cherry  Water  Ice.  —  Cherries  two  pounds,  either  Kentish  or  May 
Duke,  ripe  gooseberries  four  ounces,  one  pint  of  syrup,  half  a  pint  of 
water,  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons ;  pound  the  cherries  with  the 
stones  in  a  mortar,  pa?s  the  juice  of  the  fruit  through  a  sieve,  mix 
the  syrup  and  water  with  it,  and  freeze  ;  if  it  should^not  freeze  suffi- 
ciently, add  a  little  more  water. 

Gooseberry  Water  Ice. — Ripe  gooseberries  two  pounds,  the  red  hairy 
sort  is  the  best,  one  pound  of  cherries,  one  pint  of  syrup,  one  pint  of 
water,  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons;  mash  the  fruit  and  pass  it  through 
a  sieve,  mix  it  with  the  syrup  and  water,  and  freeze. 

Raspberry  Water  Ice.— One  quart  of  ripe  raspberries,  four  ounces 
of  ripe  cherries  and  currants,  half  a  pint  of  syrup,  half  a  pint  of  water, 
and  the  juice  of  two  lemons.  Mash  the  fruit  and  p.iss  the  juice 
through  a  sieve,  mix  the  syrup  water  and  lemon  with  it,  and  freeze. 

Raspberry  Water  Ice.  —  Two  pottles  of  the  best  scarlet  pines,  one 
pint  of  syrup,  half  a  pint  of  water,  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons. 

Mix  as  currant.  All  red  fruits  require  the  addition  of  a  little  pre- 
pared cochineal  to  heighten  the  colour. 

Apricot  Water  Ice. — Eighteen  or  twenty  fine  ripe  apricots,  accord- 
ing to  their  size,  half  a  pint  of  syrup,  half  a  pint  of  water,  the  juice 
of  two  lemons. 

Mash  the  apricots  and  pass  them  through  a  sieve,  mix  the  pulp 
with  the  syrup  water  and  lemon-juice,  break  the  stones,  blanch  the 
kernels,  and  pound  them  fine  with  a  little  water,  pass  them  through 
a  sieve,  add  it  to  the  mixture,  and  freeze. 

Peach  Water  Ice. — One  pound  of  the  pulp  of  ripe  peaches,  half  a 
pint  of  syrup,  half  a  pint  of  water,  the  juice  of  two  lemons.  Mix  as 
apricot.  If  the  fruit  is  not  ripe  enough  to  pulp,  open  them  and  take 
out  the  stones,  put  them  in  a  stew-pan  with  the  syrup  and  water,  boil 
until  tender,  and  pass  them  through  a  sieve;  mix  in  the  pounded 
kernels;  when  cold,  freeze. 

Damson  Ice. — One  quart  of  damsons,  one  pint  of  syrup,  half  a  pint 
of  water.     Mix  as  peach   ice.      Magnum-bonums,  Orleans,  green- 
gages, or  any  other  plum  may  be  done  in  the  same  way, 
7* 


YD  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

Pine-appk  Water  Ice. — Half  a  pint  of  pine  syrup,  one  pint  of  water, 
the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and  three  or  four  slices  of  preserved  pine 
cut  into  small  dice;  mix  and  freeze. 

Fresh  Pine-apple  Water  Ice.  —  One  pound  of  pine-apple,  one  pint 
of  syrup,  half  a  pint  of  water,  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons.  Cut  the 
pine  in  pieces,  and  put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with  the  syrup  and  water, 
and  boil  until  tender  ;  pass  it  through  a  sieve,  add  the  lemon-juice, 
with  two  or  three  slices  of  the  pine  cut  in  small  dice,  mix  and  freeze 
when  cold.  The  pine  may  be  pounded  instead  of  being  boiled,  and 
mixed  with  the  syrup,  &c. 

The  whole  of  these  ices  may  be  made  with  preserved  fruit  instead 
of  fresh. 

One  pound  of  jam  or  jelly,  one  pint  of  water,  the  juice  of  two  lem- 
ons, and  syrup  sufficient  to  make  it  palatable. 

Apple-Water  Ice.  —  Pare  and  core  some  fine  apples,  cut  them  in 
pieces  into  a  preserving  pan  with  sufficient  water  for  them  to  float, 
boil  until  they  are  reduced  to  a  marmalade,  then  strain :  to  a  pint  of 
apple-water  add  half  a  pint  of  syrup,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  little 
water ;  when  cold,  freeze. 

Pear-Water  Ice. — Prepare  as  apple  ice. 

Orange-Water  Ice. — One  pint  of  China  orange-juice,  one  pint  of 
syrup,  half  a  pint  of  water,  the  juice  of  four  large  lemons. 

Rub  off  the  yellow  rind  of  six  oranges  and  two  lemons  on  sugar, 
scrape  it  off  and  mix  with  the  strained  juice,  syrup  and  water. 

Lemon-Water  Ice. — Haifa  pint  of  lemon  juice,  half  a  pint  of  water, 
one  pint  of  syrup,  the  peels  of  six  lemons  rubbed  off  on  sugar,  or  the 
yellow  rind  may  be  pared  or  grated  off,  and  the  juice  squeezed  to  it 
in  a  basin ;  let  it  remain  for  an  hour  or  two,  then  strain,  mix,  and 
freeze;  whip  up  the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a  strong  froth,  with  a 
little  sugar,  as  for  meringues;  when  the  ice  is  beginning  to  set,  work 
this  well  in  it,  which  will  make  it  eat  beautifully  soft  and  delicious; 
freeze  to  the  required  consistence ;  if  the  ice  is  to  be  served  in  glasses, 
the  meringue  may  be  added  after  it  has  been  frozen.  Orange- water 
ice  may  be  done  the  same. 

Maraschino -Water  Ice — Make  a  lemon  ice  as  the  above,  using  less 
water,  and  making  up  the  deficiency  with  Maraschino;  but  be  careful 
the  taste  of  the  lemon  does  not  prevail  too  much ;  add  more  water  and 
syrup  to  correct  it  if  it  does.  Noyau  and  all  other  liqueur  ices  are 
made  the  same  way,  using  that  to  flavour  the  lemon  ice  which  it  bears 
the  name  of.  Champagne  and  wine  ices  the  same. 

Punch-Wafer  Ice.  —  Make  either  a  good  lemon  ice,  or  use  sorno 
orange-juice  with  the  lemons,  in  the  proportion  of  one  orange  to  two 
lemons;  either  rub  off  the  yellow  rind  of  the  lemons  on  sugar,  or  pare 
it  very  thin,  and  soak  it  in  the  spirit  for  a  few  hours ;  when  the  ice 
is  beginning  to  set,  work  in  the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  each  quart, 
beaten  to  a  strong  froth,  and  mixed  with  sugar  as  for  mprmwuo,  or 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  79 

add  the  whites  without  whisking  them;  when  it  is  nearly  frozen,  take 
out  the  pot  from  the  ice,  and  mix  well  with  it  a  glass  each  of  rum 
and  brandy,  or  sufficient  to  make  it  a  good  flavour;  some  like  the 
taste  of  the  rum  to  predominate,  but  in  this  case  of  course  you  will  be 
guided  by  the  wish  of  your  employer.  In  general  the  prevailing  fla- 
vour distinguishes  it  by  name,  as  rum-punch  or  brandy-punch  ice; 
after  the  spirit  is  well  mixed,  replace  the  pot  and  finish  freezing.  If 
champagne,  arrack,  or  tea  is  added,  it  is  then  termed  champagne- 
punch  ice,  arrack-punch  ice,  &c. 

Punch  a  la  Romaine — Roman  Punch  Ice. — Make  a  quart  of  lemon 
ice,  and  flavour  it  with  a  glass  or  two  of  each,  of  rum,  brandy,  cham- 
pagne, and  Maraschino;  when  it  is  frozen,  to  each  quart  take  the 
whites  of  five  eggs  and  whip  them  to  a  very  strong  froth  ;  boil  half  a 
pound  of  sugar  to  the  ball,  and  rub  it  with  a  spoon  or  spatula  against 
the  sides  to  grain  it ;  when  it  turns  white,  mix  it  quickly  with  the 
whites  of  eggs,  stir  it  lightly  together,  and  add  it  to  the  ice;  when 
cold,  mix  it  well  together,  and  serve  it  in  glasses;  less  sugar  must  be 
used  in  the  ice,  so  as  to  allow  for  that  which  is  used  in  making  the 
meringue. 

Mille  Fruit  Water  Ice. — Make  a  good  lemon  ice,  with  a  pint  of 
syrup,  half  a  pint  of  water,  and  as  much  strained  lemon-juice  as  will 
give  it  the  desired  flavour,  with  some  elder  flowers  infused  in  syrup; 
when  the  ice  is  frozen,  mix  it  in  some  preserved  green  fruits  and 
peels  cut  in  small  dice  ;  if  any  large  fruits  are  used,  such  as  apricots, 
peaches,  pine-apples,  &c.,  they  must  be  also  cut  in  dice  like  the  peels; 
sprinkle  it  with  prepared  cochineal,  and  mix  it  a  little  so  as  it  may 
appear  in  veins. 


SECTION    XIX. JELLIES. 

[Calves'  Feet  Jellies. —  Boil  down  one  set  of  calves'  feet  in  four 
quarts  of  water  till  it  is  reduced  to  one  half,  then  strain  through  a 
sieve,  in  order  to  remove  the  bones;  when  settled  and  cold  take  off 
the  grease  on  the  surface,  then  boil,  with  the  following  additions  : — 
twelve  eggs,  three  pints  of  good  Madeira  wine,  and  two  pounds  of 
loaf  sugar,  the  juice  of  four  lemons;  stir  the  mixture  well  with  a 
whisk  or  spatula,  and  filter  through  a  fine  flannel  bag.  Jellies  of 
Champagne  and  other  wines  are  made  in  the  same  manner. 

Coffee  Jelly  is  made  the  same  as  preceding,  using,  instead  of  Ma- 
deira wine,  a  decoction  of  coffee,  prepared  as  follows: — infuse  half  a 
pound  of  roasted  Mocha  coffee,  pulverised  or  ground,  in  one  quart  of 
water,  strain  off  the  decoction,  and  add  to  it  a  little  brandy. 

Tea  Jelly — Green  or  Slack. — Treat  in  the  same  way,  using  an  in- 
fusion of  half  an  ounce  of  tea  to  one  quart  of  water. 


80  THE    CONFECTIONER. 


FRUIT    JELLIES. 

Strawberry  Jelly. — One  pound  of  picked  strawberries,  press  them 
Lghtiy,  and  put  them  in  four  ounces  of  clear  syrup;  cover  the  infu- 
sion, and  let  them  stand  all  night;  strain  through  a  bag  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning:  in  the  mean  time  clarify  half  a  pound  of  sugar ; 
when  nearly  clarified  add  to  it  a  few  drops  of  prepared  cochineal,  to 
give  it  a  fine  red  colour;  after  which,  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and 
add  to  it  an  ounce  of  clarified  isinglass,  the  juice  of  two  sound  lemons, 
and  afterwards  the  fruit;  stir  the  jelly  gently,  and  put  it  in  a  mould 
placed  in  ice. 

N.  B. — To  clarify  isinglass,  take  one  ounce  of  the  best  Russia,  cut 
it  in  small  pieces,  wash  it  several  times  in  clear  warm  water,  put  it  on 
the  fire  in  a  small  pan  with  one  pint  of  soft  water,  let  it  boil  suffi- 
ciently, taking  care  to  skim  it  well;  when  it  is  reduced  to  one-half, 
strain  through  a  napkin  into  a  clean  vessel.  The  sugar  and  isinglass 
should  be  only  lukewarm  when  you  mix  them.  These  remarks  apply 
to  all  jellies  of  this  kind. 

Pine.  Apple.  Jelly. — Take  a  fine  ripe  pine  apple,  cut  it  small,  and 
strain  the  juice  through  a  hair  sieve,  then  throw  it  into  the  boiling 
syrup,  let  it  boil  up,  and  when  nearly  cold  strain  it  through  a  silk 
sieve,  add  a  little  caramel  to  give  the  jelly  a  fine  yellow  tinge ; 
then  the  juice  of  two  fine  lemons,  and  an  ounce  of  clarified  isinglass. 
Proceed  as  before. 

Jelly  of  Jlpricots. — Take  the  stones  out  of  one  dozen  and  a  half  of 
fine  ripe  apricots  and  boil  them  in  the  syrup,  which,  in  this  case, 
should  be  as  light  coloured  as  possible;  when  boiled  sufficiently  to 
extract  the  flavour,  strain  through  a  napkin,  add  the  necessary  quan- 
tity of  isinglass,  and  finish  as  usual. 

Orange  Jelly. — Squeeze  the  juice  out  of  twelve  Havanna  oranges 
and  one  lemon,  strain  through  a  fine  linen  cloth,  then  mix  with  the 
syrup  boiled  to  the  ball ;  add  the  clarified  isinglass,  filter  through  a 
fine  flannel  bag,  and  finish  as  before. 

The  foregoing  will  suffice  for  all  fruit  jellies. 


BLANC    MANGE. 

Take  four  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  blanched,  half  an  ounce  of 
bitter  almonds,  pound  them  in  a  clean  mortar,  moisten  them  gra- 
dually with  orange-flower  water,  mix  this  with  one  quart  of  fresh 
cream  and  one  ounce  of  clarified  isinglass,  put  into  a  saucepan,  con- 
stantly stirring  till  it  boils,  then  pass  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  form 
into  a  mould,  and  put  on  ice. 

Blanc  Mange  may  be  flavoured  with  vanilla,  Mocha  coffee,  maris- 
chino,  pistachios,  and  strawberries ;  in  which  case  the  bitter  almonds 
should  be  left  out.] 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  81 

SECTION    XX. ON    ESSENCES. 

THE  essences  or  essential  oils  sold  for  general  use  are  or  ought  to 
be  obtained  by  distillation  ;  but  for  many  purposes  they  may  be  ob- 
tained equally  as  good,  and,  in  some  cases,  superior,  without.  As 
these  are  often  adulterated  with  olive  or  nut  oils,  or  with  spirits  of 
wine,  the  fixed  oils  may  be  detected  by  pouring  some  of  the  suspected 
essence  on  a  piece  of  clean  writing  paper,  and  holding  it  before  the 
fire  ;  the  quantity  of  fixed  oil  it  contains  will  remain,  leaving  a  greasy 
mark,  whereas  the  pure  essential  oil  will  evaporate  without  leaving 
any  appearance  ;  if  spirits  of  wine  be  added,  pour  a  little  water  or  oil 
of  turpentine  into  the  adulterated  sample,  and  it  will  turn  milky,  as 
the  two  will  not  unite  without  producing  this  effect.  It  is  often 
sophisticated  with  the  oil  of  turpentine,  which  is  the  lightest  of  all 
essential  oils ;  in  this  case,  rub  a  drop  over  the  hand  and  hold  it  by 
the  fire,  when  it  may  be  recognized  by  the  smell,  or  if  burnt  it  will 
give  out  a  dense  black  smoke. 

Rectified  spirits  of  wine  dissolve  the  volatile  oil  and  resin  of  vege- 
tables (their  taste  and  smell  most  frequently  reside  in  these),  whilst 
water  acts  on  the  saline  and  mucilaginous  parts.  Proof  spirit,  which 
is  a  mixture  of  both  these,  extracts  all  their  virtues,  and  through  this 
we  are  enabled  to  obtain  the  essence  or  tincture  of  any  vegetable,  of 
superior  quality  to  that  generally  sold,  and  at  considerably  less  ex- 
pense. The  essential  oil  of  lemons  or  oranges  is  obtained  by  rubbing 
off  the  yellow  rind  on  the  rough  surface  of  a  piece  of  loaf  sugar,  which 
is  much  superior  for  flavour  to  that  produced  by  any  other  means. 
Scrape  off  the  sugar  after  it  has  imbibed  the  oil,  and  dry  it  in  a  gentle 
heat,  put  it  into  small  glazed  pots,  and  tie  them  over  with  bladder ;  it 
will  keep  any  length  of  time  unimpaired.  The  same  observation 
holds  good  as  regards  all  fruit  whose  flavour  or  essential  oil  resides  in 
its  peel. 

Essence  of  Lemon. — Eight  ounces  of  lemon  peel,  ten  ounces  of  rec- 
tified spirits  of  wine.  Pare  or  grate  off  the  yellow  rind  of  the  lemon 
very  thin  and  weigh  it,  put  it  into  a  bottle  and  pour  the  spirit  on  it, 
stop  it  close,  and  let  it  steep  for  fourteen  days,  when  it  is  fit  for  use. 
Proof  gin  or  white  rum  will  serve  equally  well,  but  not  such  as  is 
generally  sold  at  the  gin-shops;  this  is  excellent  for  ices,  creams, 
lemonade,  &c.  In  many  establishments,  where  quantities  of  peel  are 
thrown  away,  the  cost  of  this  would  be  comparatively  trifling,  com- 
pared with  the  price  of  the  inferior  oil  generally  sold. 

Essence  of  Orange. — Make  as  lemon,  using  only  four  ounces  of  the 
yellow  rind. 

Essence  of  Bergamot. — From  the  peel  of  the  bergamot  lemon. 

Essence  de  Cedrat. — From  the  yellow  part  of  the  fresh  citron  peel ; 
it  may  also  be  obtained  by  pressing  the  yellow  part  of  the  peel  be- 
tween two  glass  plates,  and  by  the  distillation  of  the  flowers  of  the 
citron-tree. 


82  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

Allspice,  Cloves,  Cinnamon,  or  Nutmegs,  $~c. — Two  ounces  of  spice, 
one  pint  of  proof  spirit.  Bruise  the  spice,  put  it  into  a  bottle,  stop  it 
close,  let  it  remain  fourteen  days,  and  filter  for  use. 

The  oil  from  nutmegs  is  often  extracted  from  them  by  decoction, 
before  they  are  brought  to  the  market,  and  their  orifices  closed  again 
with  powdered  sassafras;  this  may  be  ascertained  by  the  lightness  of 
the  nut;  if  it  is  punctured  with  a  pin,  the  oil  will  be  pressed  from  it 
when  good.  These  oils  may  be  obtained  by  expression  or  distillation  ; 
they  hold  resin  in  solution,  and  consequently  sink  in  water.  The 
essences  usually  sold  are  made  by  adding  half  an  ounce  of  the  pure 
oil  to  one  pint  of  spirits  of  wine. 

Essence  of  Ginger. — The  best  Jamaica  or  China  ginger  two  ounces, 
proof  spirit  one  pint.  Powder  the  ginger,  mix  it  with  the  spirit,  stop 
close,  and  let  it  steep  for  twelve  or  fourteen  days. 

This  is  the  same  as  is  sold  for  "  Oxley's  concentrated  essence  of 
Jamaica  ginger," — a  mere  solution  of  ginger  in  rectified  spirit — 
Paris9 s  Pharmacologia. 

Essence  of  Peppermint. — "  A  spirituous  solution  of  the  essential  oil, 
coloured  green  by  spinach  leaves."  Ibid.  This  essential  oil  is  ob- 
tained by  distillation.  Four  pounds  of  dried  leaves  yield  one  ounce. 

Essence  of  Manilla. — Vanilla  two  ounces,  water  ten  ounces,  rectified 
spirit  three-quarters  of  an  ounce.  Cut  the  vanilla  in  small  pieces, 
and  pound  it  fine  in  a  marble  mortar,  with  loaf  sugar  (about  a  pound), 
adding  tho  white  of  an  egg  and  the  spirit.  Put  it  into  a  glazed  pot, 
tie  a  piece  of  writing  paper  over  it,  and  make  a  hole  in  it  with  a  pin ; 
stand  the  pot  in  warm  water,  keeping  it  at  that  heat  for  twenty-four 
hours,  then  strain  for  use. 

One  drachm  of  this  is  equal  to  an  ounce  of  vanilla,  and  is  excellent 
for  flavouring  ices,  creams,  liqueurs,  &c. 

Essence  of  Bitter  Almonds. — This  is  obtained  by  distilling  the  cake 
or  residue  of  the  almonds  after  the  oil  has  been  expressed  from  them. 
It  is  a  deadly  poison,  containing  prussic  acid,  like  all  other  nuts  or 
leaves,  which  possess  the  bitter  principle.  Flies  drop  dead  when 
passing  over  the  still  when  it  is  in  operation.  The  essence  usually 
sold  is  one  ounce  of  oil  to  seven  ounces  of  rectified  spirit. 

SECTION    XXI. MERINGUES    AND    ICINS. 

- 

Dry  Meringues  in  the  form  of  Eggs. — Ten  whites  of  eggs,  twelve 
ounces  of  sugar. 

Obtain  the  newest  laid  eggs,  and  separate  the  white  from  the  yolk 
very  carefully;  put  the  whites  into  a  pan,  which  must  be  quite  free 
from  grease;  whisk  them  to  a  very  strong  froth  so  as  it  will  support 
an  egg,  or  even  a  greater  weight;  have  the  sugar  pounded  and  sifted 
through  a  lawn  sieve,  and  mix  it  as  lightly  ns  possible;  spread  some 
pieces  of  board  about  an  inch  thick,  then  with  a  table  or  dessert  spoon 


^,^^_  83 

_ 

drop  them  on  the  paper  about  two  inches  asunder,  dust  them  with  fine 
powdered  loaf  sugar,  blow  off  all  that  does  not  adhere,  and  put  them 
into  a  co'  oven  to  bake  until  they  are  a  nice  light  brown  ;  if  the  oven 
should  be  too  warm,  when  the  surface  gets  dry  or  hardened  cover 
them  with  paper ;  as  soon  as  they  are  done  take  them  off  with  a  knife, 
press  the  inside  or  soft  part  down  with  the  top  or  the  back  of  a  spoon, 
place  them  on  sieves,  and  put  them  into  the  stove  to  dry  ;  when  they 
are  required  to  be  served  fill  them  with  any  kind  of  preserved  fruit  or 
cream,  if  it  is  rather  acid  the  better,  and  put  two  together. 

The  quality  of  the  meringues  will  depend  on  the  eggs  being  well 
whipped  to  a  very  strong  froth,  and  also  on  the  quantity  of  sugar,  for 
if  there  is  not  enough  they  will  eat  tough. 

[Kisses. — Twelve  ounces  of  sugar  powdered  very  fine  and  passed 
through  a  silk  sieve*  the  whites  of  six  eggs  beaten  to  a  strong  froth ; 
mix  and  lay  out  on  paper,  as  for  dry  meringues:  when  baked,  place 
two  together.  The  size  should  be  about  that  of  a  pigeon's  egg.] 

Italian  Meringues. — One  pound  of  sugar,  the  whites  of  six  eggs. 
Clarify  the  sugar  and  boil  it  to  the  blow  ;  in  the  mean  time  whip  up 
the  whites  as  for  the  last,  take  the  sugar  from  the  fire  and  rub  it  a 
little  against  the  sides  of  the  pan  to  grain  it ;  as  soon  as  it  begins  to 
turn  white,  mix  in  the  whipped  eggs,  stirring  the  sugar  well  from 
the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  pan  with  the  whisk  or  spatula;  lay  them 
off,  and  bake  as  dry  meringues;  these  may  be  coloured  by  adding  the 
liquid  colour  to  the  syrup  so  as  to  give  the  desired  tint ;  and  either 
of  them  may  be  flavoured  by  rubbing  off  the  peel  of  oranges,  lemons, 
or  cedrats  on  sugar,  and  scraping  it  off  as  it  imbibes  the  oil ;  or  it 
may  be  flavoured  with  vanilla,  by  cutting  it  in  small  pieces  and  pound- 
ing it  with  some  sugar,  or  with  any  liqueur  by  adding  a  spoonful  or 
two  when  you  mix  the  eggs  or  sugar.  They  may  also  be  varied  in 
form,  and  baked  on  tin  or  iron  plates  instead  of  wood,  that  the  bottoms 
may  be  quite  firm.  The  tops  may  be  covered  with  almonds  or  pis- 
tachios, blanched  and  cut  small  or  in  fillets,  or  with  currants,  or 
coloured  sugars;  the  whole  depending  on  the  taste  and  ingenuity  of 
the  artist. 

Mushrooms. — To  make  these,  take  either  of  the  pastes  for  merin- 
gues or  light  icing,  as  for  cakes;  put  some  into  a  bag  in  the  shape  of 
a  cone,  with  a  tin  pipe  at  the  end,  the  same  as  used  for  Savoy  bis- 
cuits; lay  them  off  in  drops  the  size  you  wish  them  to  be,  on  iron 
plates  rubbed  quite  clean  and  dry,  bake  them  as  you  would  merin- 
gues, make  also  a  smaller  drop  to  form  the  stalk  ;  when  they  are 
baked,  take  them  off  the  tin  and  scoop  out  a  little  with  your  finger 
from  the  bottom  near  the  edge,  to  form  the  hollow  rough  surface 
underneath ;  then  dry  them  in  the  stove  ;  scrape  some  chocolate  and 
dissolve  it  in  a  little  warm  water,  and  rub  a  little  over  the  rough  part 
underneath  ;  then  place  the  stalk  in  the  centre,  fixing  it  with  a  little 
icing,  and  let  the  flat  part  which  was  on  the  tin  be  placed  outermost 
to  represent  where  it  was  cut. 


84  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

Icing  for  Wedding  or  Twelfth  Cakes,  &c.  —  Pound,  and  sift  some 
treble-refined  sugar  through  a  lawn  sieve,  and  put  it  into  an  earthen 
pan,  which  must  be  quite  free  from  grease;  to  each  pound  of  sifted 
sugar  add  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  or  sufficient  to  make  it  into  a 
paste  of  a  moderate  consistence,  then  with  a  wooden  spoon  or 
spatula  beat  it  well,  using  a  little  lemon-juice  occasionally,  and  more 
white  of  egg  if  you  find  that  it  will  bear  it  without  making  it  too  thin, 
until  you  have  a  nice  light  icing,  which  will  hang  to  the  sides  of  the 
pan  and  spoon ;  or,  if  it  is  dropped  from  the  spoon,  it  should  remain 
on  the  top  without  speedily  losing  the  form  it  assumed.  A  pan  of 
icing,  when  well  beat  and  finished,  should  contain  as  much  again  in 
bulk  as  it  was  at  the  commencement:  use  sufficient  lemon-juice  to 
give  the  icing  a  slight  acid,  or  it  will  scale  off  the  cake  in  large  pieces 
when  it  is  cut.  Many  prefer  the  pyroligneous  acid  to  the  lemon- 
juice,  but  the  flavour  is  not  so  delicate,  and  it  always  retains  a  smell 
of  the  acid ;  neither  did  I  ever  find,  as  some  assert,  that  it  improves 
the  quality  and  appearance  of  the  icing;  the  only  advantage  derived 
from  it  is  that  of  economy. 

On  piping  Cakesr  Bon-bons,  §"c. — This  is  a  method  of  ornamenting 
wedding,  twelfth-cakes,  and  other  articles  with  icing,  by  means  of 
small  pipes  or  tubes;  these  are  most  generally  made  with  writing- 
paper  folded  in  the  form  of  a  cone,  in  the  same  manner  as  a  grocer 
makes  up  his  papers  for  small  lots  of  sugar,  tea,  &c.  The  tube  is 
filled  with  icing,  made  as  for  cakes,  the  base  of  the  cone,  or  the  place 
where  it  was  filled,  is  turned  down  to  prevent  the  sides  opening,  and 
the  escape  of  the  icing;  the  point  is  then  cut  off  with  a  sharp  knife 
or  scissors,  so  as  to  make  a  hole  sufficiently  large  to  form  the  icing, 
when  squeezed  or  pressed  out,  in  a  thread  of  the  required  size,  and 
which  will  either  be  fine  or  coarse  according  to  the  length  of  the 
point  which  is  cut  off.  If  the  hole  at  the  point  of  the  cone  is  not  per- 
fectly straight  when  the  icing  is  pressed  out,  it  will  form  a  spiral 
thread,  which  is  very  inconvenient  to  work  with.  Stars,  borders, 
flowers,  and  different  devices,  are  formed  on  cakes  after  they  are  iced, 
the  execution  of  which  depends  on  the  ability  and  ingenuity  of  the 
artist.  Baskets,  Chinese  and  other  temples,  &c.,  are  formed  on  moulds 
by  these  means,  first  giving  them  a  coating  of  white  wax,  which  is 
brushed  over  them  after  it  is  melted,  and  when  cold,  the  icing  is 
formed  on  it  like  trellis-work ;  when  finished,  the  mould  is  warmed, 
and  the  icing  easily  comes  off.  Some  of  the  pipes  which  are  used 
cannot  be  formed  with  paper,  as  the  tape  and  star-pi pcs,  which  are 
made  of  tin,  having  a  bag  fastened  to  them  in  a  similar  manner  to 
that  generally  used  for  dropping  out  Savoy  biscuits,  macaroons,  &c., 
only  much  smaller,  the  point  of  the  tin  tube  of  the  one  being  fluted  to 
form  a  star,  and  in  the  other  it  is  flat,  so  that  when  the  icing  is  forced 
or  squeezed  through,  it  comes  out  in  a  broad  thin  sheet,  like  a  piece 
of  tape.  I  employ  a  set  of  pipes  made  of  tin,  with  small  bags  fastened 
to  them  ;  these  are  of  different  dimensions ;  the  orifice  of  the  round 
ones  commences  at  the  size  of  a  common  pin,  and  the  tape  pipes  from 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  85 

a  quarter  to  half  an  inch  in  width.  I  find  these  much  hetter  than 
paper  ones,  as  the  trouble  and  time  which  is  lost  in  constantly  making 
new  ones  is  amply  repaid  by  the  others,  as  they  are  not  very  expen- 
sive and  are  always  ready  for  use.  These  pipes  should  be  in  the 
hands  of  the  confectioner  what  the  pencil  or  brush  is  to  the  painter, 
— capable  of  performing  wonders  with  men  of  genius.  Some  of  the 
bon-bons,  which  may  be  seen  in  the  shops,  are  proofs  of  what  I  assert; 
and  many  things  are  so  cleverly  done,  that  many  persons  would  be- 
lieve that  they  were  either  formed  in  a  mould  or  modelled.  I  have 
not  space  to  enlarge  further  on  this  subject,  but  much  more  might  be 
given  in  explanation ;  therefore  the  artist  must  be  guided  by  his  own 
genius  and  fancy.* 


SECTION    XXII. GUM    PASTE. 

TAKE  one  ounce  of  picked  gnm-tragacanth  ;  wash  it  in  water,  to 
take  off  any  dust  or  dirt;  put  it  into  a  clean  pot,  and  pour  on  it  rather 
more  than  half  a  pint  of  water,  or  sufficient  to  cover  the  gum  about 
an  inch;  stir  it  frequently,  to  accelerate  the  solution;  it  will  take 
twenty-four  hours  to  dissolve;  then  squeeze  it  out  through  a  coarse 
cloth,  as  directed  for  lozenges,  taking  care  that  everything  employed 
in  the  making  is  very  clean,  or  it  will  spoil  the  colour;  put  it  into  a 
mortar,  adding  gradually  six  or  eight  ounces  of  treble-refined  sugar, 
sifted  through  a  lawn  sieve;  work  it  well  with  the  pestle,  until  it  is 
incorporated  and  becomes  a  very  white  smooth  paste;  put  it  into  a 
glazed  pot,  cover  the  paste  with  a  damp  cloth,  and  turn  the  pot  upside- 
down  on  an  even  surface,  to  exclude  the  air.  When  it  is  wanted, 
take  a  little  of  it  and  put  it  on  a  clean  marble,  and  work  some  more 
sugar  into  it  (which  has  been  sifted  through  a  lawn  sieve)  with  the 
fingers,  until  it  is  a  firm  paste,  which  will  break  when  pulled  ;  if  it  is 
not  stiff  enough,  it  will  roll  up  under  the  knife  when  you  cut  it  from 
the  impressions  in  your  paste-boards;  if  it  is  too  stiff,  work  in  a  little 
of  your  prepared  paste  with  it,  to  soften  it.  When  your  paste  works 
harsh  and  cracks,  it  has  too  much  gum  in  it ;  in  this  case,  use  a  little 
water  to  work  it  down  ;  and  if  the  gum  is  too  thin  it  will  crack,  and 
dry  too  soon  from  the  excess  of  sugar,  therefore  add  pome  more 
strained  gum  that  has  not  been  mixed  with  sugar.  The  same  obser 
vation  also  holds  good  with  respect  to  lozenges.  If  it  is  required 
coloured,  add  a  little  prepared  cochineal,  or  any  other  colour  in  fine 
powder;  mix  it  on  the  stone.  If  they  are  to  be  flavoured  with  any 
essence,  add  it  at  the  same  time.  This  paste  is  fit  to  be  eaten,  and  is 
the  foundation  of  gum-paste  comfits,  dragees,  &c. 

Gum  Paste  for  Ornaments.  —  Take  some  of  the  prepared  paste,  as 


*  An  excellent  work  for  the  use  of  the  ornamental  confectioner  is  Page's 
"  Acanthus,"  which  may  be  obtained  of  any  bookseller. 
8 


86  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

for  the  last,  and  work  into  it  on  the  stone  some  very  fine  starch  pow- 
der, using  equal  quantities  of  starch  and  sugar.  This  may  also  be 
made  with  rice  flour,  instead  of  starch.  These  are  chiefly  used  for 
pieces  montees.  It  may  be  moulded  or  modelled  into  any  form,  or 
cut  out  from  figures  or  borders  carved  in  wood,  called  gum-paste 
boards,  using  a  little  starch-powder  to  prevent  its  sticking  whilst 
working  it ;  a  little  tied  up  in  a  small  muslin  bag  is  the  handiest  for 
use.  When  you  want  to  get  the  paste  from  the  impressions  in  the 
boards,  take  a  small  piece  of  paste  and  press  it  at  each  end ;  if  it  does 
not  come  out  very  readily,  moisten  the  piece,  and  touch  that  in  the 
impression  at  three  or  four  places,  which,  being  damp,  adheres  to  it 
and  draws  it  out. 

Paste  ft) r  gilding  on. — Take  some  dissolved  gum,  as  before,  and 
make  it  into  a  paste  with  a  little  starch-powder  to  finish  it;  or  it  may 
be  made  with  some  of  the  prepared  sugar  gum-paste,  finishing  it  with 
starch-powder. 

Papier  Mdchee. — Take  the  cuttings  of  either  white  or  brown  paper, 
and  boil  them  in  water  until  reduced  to  a  paste;  press  the  water 
from  it  when  cold  enough,  and  pound  it  well  in  a  mortar ;  put  it  into 
a  pan  or  glazed  pipkin,  with  a  little  gum  Arabic,  Senegal,  or  com* 
mon  glue,  made  into  rather  a  thick  mucilage  with  water;  this  is  to 
give  it  tenacity ;  place  it  on  the  fire  and  stir  it  until  well  incorpo- 
rated ;  if  it  is  not  stiff  enough  when  cold,  flour  may  be  added  to  make 
it  of  the  proper  consistence;  it  should  be  about  the  same  substance  as 
gum  paste.  This  may  be  used  for  forming  the  rocks  of  a  piece  mon- 
tee,  or  for  vases,  cassolettes,  &c. ;  in  fact  anything  you  desire  may  be 
made  with  it,  as  with  gum  paste ;  it  is  very  durable,  not  being  easily 
broken,  and  is  very  light;  it  is  now  much  used,  instead  of  compo- 
sition, for  the  decorations  of  rooms  and  articles  of  furniture.  It  is 
from  this  that  paper  trays,  snuffboxes,  &c.,  are  manufactured,  and  it 
is  much  used  in  France  for  making  various  beautiful  little  ornaments 
for  containing  bon-bons,  &c.  It  may  be  moulded  or  modelled  into  any 
form,  or  cut  from  impressions  in  wood  or  plaster,  &c.  When  the 
object  is  dry,  give  it  a  coating  of  composition,  made  with  parchment 
size,  and  whitening  or  lamp-black,  mixed  to  the  consistence  of  oil 
paint,  according  to  the  colour  it  is  required.  Smooth  it  with  glass 
paper,  and  paint  or  gild  as  wood,  or  japan  it.* 

To  gild  Gum  Paste,  tyc. — Those  articles  which  are  gilt  are  seldom 
intended  to  be  eaten,  therefore  first  give  them  a  coating  of  parchment 
size  and  whitening,  as  the  papier  m&chee,  or  paint  them  with  oil 
colour.  When  this  is  dry,  brush  over  a  coat  of  gold  size,  and  let  it 
remain  until  nearly  dry,  or  so  as  it  will  stick  to  the  fingers  a  little  ; 
then  take  a  small  dry  brush,  termed  by  gilders  a  tip,  rub  a  little 

*  For  further  particulars,  and  for  the  method  of  taking  the  impressions 
of  moulds  with  composition,  see  the  'Guide  to  Trade — The  Carver  and 
Gilder,'  Knight  &  Co.,  p.  53. 


s 

THE    CONFECTIONER.  87 

grease  over  the  back  of  your  hand,  and  pass  the  brush  over  it  gently ; 
apply  it  to  the  gold  leaf,  which  it  will  take  up,  and  place  it  on  the 
part  you  intend  to  gild ;  blow  on  it  to  make  it  smooth  ;  the  gold  leaf 
may  first  be  divided  into  small  pieces  with  a  knife  on  a  leather  pad  or 
cushion,  to  suit  the  size  of  your  work ;  rub  it  over  gently  with  a  piece 
of  wool,  to  make  it  appear  glossy.  Those  parts  which  have  not  taken 
the  gold,  just  breathe  on,  then  apply  a  small  piece  of  the  leaf,  and  rub 
again  with  the  wool.  If  your  piece  is  intended  to  be  eaten,  let  the 
paste  be  perfectly  dry  and  smooth ;  then  prepare  some  mucilage  of 
gum  Arabic,  strain  it,  and  grind  it  well  with  an  equal  portion  of  white 
sugar  candy ;  lay  it  over  the  part  you  intend  to  gild  with  a  stiff 
brush  ;  when  dry,  breathe  on  it,  so  as  to  moisten  it,  and  gild  as 
before. 

To  Bronze  Gum  Paste. — Prepare  your  object,  if  not  to  be  eaten,  as 
for  gilding,  giving  it  a  coat  of  invisible  green,  prepared  with  turpen- 
tine, a  little  japan  gold  size,  and  a  small  portion  of  oil ;  when  it  is 
nearly  dry,  dip  a  fitch  pencil  in  some  bronze  powder,  shake  off  the 
loose  pieces  which  hang  about  the  brush,  and  apply  it  to  the  parts  you 
wish  to  assume  the  appearance  of  copper,  which  are  in  general  the 
most  prominent. 

Another  method. — Smooth  your  finger  with  sand-paper,  and  give  it 
a  coat  of  isinglass  dissolved,  or  parchment  size;  when  this  is  dry, 
give  it  a  coat  of  colour  made  as  follows : — Take  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  prepared  indigo,  with  verditer  blue,  and  a  little  spruce  ochre  or 
saffron,  in  such  proportions  as  to  make  a  deep  green ;  grind  theth  to- 
gether with  white  of  egg  and  powdered  sugar-candy,  or  with  parch- 
ment size;  give  it  a  coat  of  this,  and  when  nearly  dry  apply  the 
bronze  as  before. 

On  the  Construction  of  jJssiettes  and  Pieces  Montees. — To  be  a  profi- 
cient in  this  part  requires  a  general  knowledge  of  the  fine  arts,  par- 
ticularly the  principles  of  architecture ;  for  without  this,  however  well 
your  piece  may  be  finished  with  regard  to  workmanship,  it  still  re- 
mains a  dull,  heavy,  unmeaning  mass,  having  no  proportion  nor  a 
particle  of  true  design  in  it.  I  have  seen  many  pieces,  and  some  in 
the  principal  shops,  with  these  defects,  although  otherwise  well  exe- 
cuted. My  limits  will  not  allow  me  to  enter  into  the  details  neces- 
sary to  illustrate  this  part,  therefore  the  artist  must  refer  to  books  on 
the  subject;  but  in  the  absence  of  these  it  is  best  to  work  from  some 
correct  drawing,  which,  with  the  few  notes  I  shall  subjoin,  may  serve 
for  general  purposes. 

There  are  many  prevailing  styles  or  orders  of  architecture,  as  the 
Egyptian,  Grecian,  Roman,  Saxori,  Norman,  Gothic,  &c.  The  Gothic 
is  the  most  beautiful,  being  pointed,  and  is  generally  used  for  cathe- 
drals and  churches.  The  Norman  is  plain  and  simple,  with  semi- 
circular arches.  The  Saxon  is  after  the  same  style,  into  which  are 
introduced  some  ornamental  workings.  The  Egyptian  is  more  flat 
and  square,  embellished  with  hieroglyphics.  In  the  Grecian  and 


THE    CONFECTIONER. 

Roman  architecture  there  are  five  orders,  viz.,  Tuscan,  Doric,  Tonic, 
Corinthian,  and  Composite  ;  and  a  building  may  be  denominated  Ionic, 
Corinthian,  &c.,  merely  from  its  ornaments.  The  number  of  columns, 
windows,  &c.,  may  be  the  same  in  either  order,  but  varied  in  their  pro- 
portions. The  height  of  the  columns  in  each  is, —  for  the  Tuscan, 
seven  times  its  diameter;  Doric,  eight;  Ionic,  nine;  Corinthian,  ten; 
Composite,  ten.  The  Tuscan  is  quite  plain,  without  any  ornament 
whatever;  the  Doric  is  distinguished  by  the  channels  and  projecting 
intervals  in  the  frieze,  called  tryglyphs;  the  Ionic  by  the  ornaments 
of  its  capital,  which  are  spiral,  and  called  volutes ;  the  Corinthian  by 
the  superior  height  of  its  capital,  and  its  being  ornamented  with 
leaves,  which  support  very  small  volutes;  the  Composite  has  also  a 
tall  capital,  with  leaves,  but  is  distinguished  from  the  Corinthian  by 
having  the  large  volutes  of  the  Ionic  capital.  The  Grecian  and 
Roman  orders  differ  in  some  respects  as  to  the  style  of  each,  but  for 
particulars  refer  to  works  on  the  subject.  These  orders  are  adopted 
for  buildings,  with  various  modifications,  in  most  parts  of  the  world. 

The  Chinese  have  a  peculiar  kind  of  style,  which  needs  no  descrip- 
tion, as  it  is  generally  represented  in  this  country  on  our  delft  ware, 
&c.  The  Swiss  style,  which  is  something  of  the  Gothic,  is  very  well 
adapted  for  pieces  montees,  as  well  as  the  Doric,  Ionic,  and  Corinthian 
orders,  they  being  more  light  and  elegant. 

Of  Pieces  Montees. — These  are  in  general  made  to  represent  build- 
ings of  all  descriptions,  fountains,  trophies,  vases,  cups,  helmets,  the 
last  being  generally  mounted  on  pedestals  and  filled  with  flowers, 
fruit,  &c. ;  also  rocks,  bridges,  fortifications,  &,c.  &c.,  the  building,  &c., 
being  generally  made  with  gum-paste,  confectioners'  or  almond  pastes. 
The  bodies  of  rocks  may  be  formed  with  pieces  of  rock  sugar,  cakes, 
biscuits,  &c.,  of  all  descriptions,  being  fixed  together  with  caramel 
sugar;  those  not  intended  to  be  eaten  may  be  made  with  papier  m£- 
chee  and  common  gum-paste ;  the  rocks  or  bottoms  of  these  are  often 
formed  with  pieces  of  cork,  flocks,  and  paper,  the  surface  being 
afterwards  covered  with  a  coating  of  very  thin  icing,  which  is  applied 
with  a  brush. 

To  construct  your  pieces  with  accuracy,  first  cut  out  your  intended 
design  in  stout  paper,  in  suitable  parts  to  be  put  together;  then  roll 
out  the  paste  thin  on  a  marble  stone;  lay  your  pattern  on  it,  and  cut 
your  paste  to  it  with  a  small  sharp-pointed  knife;  let  it  dry,  and  fix 
it  together  with  some  dissolved  gum,  or  a  little  gum-paste  made  rather 
thin  with  water.  Cut  your  ornaments  or  decorations  from  paste- 
boards; let  them  dry  a  few  minutes,  and  fix  them  in  their  proper 
places.  Water  may  be  represented  with  a  piece  of  looking-glass,  and 
falling  water  with  silver  web  or  spun  glass. 

Biscuit  Paste  to  imitate  Marble  JRocks,  $~c,  for  Pieces  Montees.  — 
Prepare  some  paste  as  for  Savoy  cakes  (see  p.  94);  take  one-third 
of  the  mixture,  and  add  to  it  some  dissolved  chocolate;  stir  the  whole 
well  together,  and  divide  into  two  equal  portions;  to  one  part  add 
some  more  of  the  mixture,  when  you  will  have  a  light  and  dark 


THE   CONFECTIONER.  89 

brown  ;  mix  together  some  prepared  cochineal  or  carmine  and  infu- 
sion of  saffron,  to  make  a  dark  orange,  and  stir  this  into  another  por« 
tion  of  paste;  divide  it,  and  add  to  one  part  some  more  of  the  paste, 
which  will  give  a  light  and  dark  orange;  butter  or  paper  a  square 
tin,  and  put  in  a  spoonful  of  each  coloured  paste  in  rotation,  spread- 
ing it  with  the  spoon  so  as  it  may  appear  in  layers,  beginning  with 
the  dark  colours,  and  so  alternately  until  the  whole  is  used;  or  one- 
half  of  each  may  be  put  into  another  tin,  and  mixed  all  together,  so 
that  it  may  appear  in  veins ;  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  when 
cold  cut  it  into  pieces  as  it  is  required,  to  represent  pieces  of  rock, 
marble,  &c.  For  variety,  the  paste  may  be  coloured  with  spinach 
green,  infusion  of  saffron,  red,  and  blue,  and  either  put  in  layers  or 
mixed  together  as  before. 

Pate  cT  Office,  or  Confectioners'  Paste.  —  Take  one  pound  and  a 
quarter  of  fine  flour,  and  ten  ounces  of  loaf  sugar  sifted  through  a 
fine  sieve;  make  a  bay,  and  put  in  it  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  yolka 
or  whites  of  eggs,  or  whole  eggs,  to  make  it  into  a  moderate  stiff 
paste;  work  it  well,  and  make^it  quite  smooth;  let  it  remain  covered 
over  for  a  short  time,  that  it  may  get  mellow.  If  this  paste  is  re- 
quired white  and  delicate,  use  the  whites  only  of  the  eggs.  This  is 
used  for  the  frame-work  or  building  of  the  pieces  montees,  or  for  the 
bottom  or  foundation  on  which  you  build  your  biscuits,  sugar,  &c. 
Roll  it  out  on  an  even  board  or  marble  slab  until  it  is  about  one-sixth 
of  an  inch  in  thickness,  or  more,  according  to  the  weight  it  has  to 
bear.  Dust  your  sheet,  and  roll  it  on  the  pin  ;  then  lay  or  roll  it  over 
a  baking-plate  slightly  buttered ;  press  out  any  air-bladders  which 
mayj>e  underneath,  and  prick  it  with  the  point  of  a  sharp-pointed 
knife  in  -a  few  places;  lay  on  your  patterns,  cut  it  out  to  the  desired 
form,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  ;  or  it  may  be  cut  out  when  the 
paste  is  half  baked,  and  finish  baking  it  afterwards ;  or  it  may  be 
dried  in  the  stove  instead  of  being  baked.  If  it  should  be  blistered 
when  it  is  taken  from  the  oven,  put  it  immediately  on  an  even  board, 
and  place  another  on  it ;  remove  it  when  it  is  cold,  and  it  will  be 
quite  straight. 

This  paste  may  be  made  with  the  addition  of  half  an  ounce  of  dis- 
solved gum-dragon,  pounding  it  well  in  a  mortar,  and  using  less  eggs. 
Each  of  these  may  be  coloured  to  any  desired  tint,  when  it  should  be 
dried  in  a  stove  instead  of  being  baked.  Fix  the  parts  together,  when 
finished,  with  some  of  the  same  paste  made  thin  with  dissolved  gum, 
or  with  caramel  sugar ;  ornament  it  with  spun  sugar,  or  with  coloured 
sugar-sands.  (See  Coloured  Sugar). 

From  this  paste,  or  almond  paste,  may  be  made  cottages,  temples, 
fountains,  pyramids,  castles,  bridges,  hermits'-cells,  vases,  or  any 
other  required  forms,  which  are  to  be  made  in  different  pieces  and  put 
together  afterwards,  or  formed  in  moulds,  and  either  baked  or  dried 
in  the  stove. 

dssiettes  Montees,  or  dressed  plates. — These  are  composed  of  pieces 
8* 


00  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

of  wire  of  different  sizes  to  suit  the  dimensions  of  the  piece,  which 
is  bound  round  with  silver  or  tissue  paper,  and  fastened  with  paste. 
These  wires,  after  they  are  fashioned  to  the  desired  figure,  are  fixed 
with  binding  wire,  and  the  whole  is  finished  with  stout  Bristol-board 
or  card  paper,  ornamented  gold  borders  and  papers,  and  decorated 
with  gum  paste.  They  are  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  table,  with 
bon-bons,  &c. 

On  Modelling. — This  art  is  most  important  to  the  confectioner.  It 
is  not  so  difficult  to  accomplish  as  is  generally  supposed  ;  it  only  re- 
quires patience  and  perseverance,  with  a  close  attention  to  the  pro- 
portions and  orders  of  nature.  A  few  modelling  tools,  and  facility  in 
handling  the  paste,  is  all  that  is  requisite  to  become  an  expert  model- 
ler. The  form  of  the  body  must  first  be  made  with  the  fingers,  the 
more  minute  parts  with  the  tools  and  a  pair  of  scissors;  the  last  is 
very  useful  for  dividing  the  fingers  on  the  hands  and  the  toes  of  a 
human  figure.  The  proportions  necessary  to  form  it  are  these : — the 
whole  length  of  a  human  being  is  six  times  the  length  of  his  feet, 
eight  times  of  his  head  (that  is,  from  the  crown  to  the  chin),  ten 
times  of  his  face,  or  the  distance  from  the  crown  to  the  mouth ;  the 
thumb  is  as  long  as  the  nose  or  the  biggest  joint  of  the  middle  finger ; 
the  fore  finger  is  shorter  than  the  third,  and  the  little  finger  is  shorter 
than  the  third  by  one  joint ;  the  width  of  the  wrist  is  as  long  as  the 
thumb,  end  about  a  quarter ;  this  varies;  the  ear  is  also  the  length 
of  the  nose,  its  breadth  half  its  length;  the  arm  is  three  times  the 
length  of  the  head,  or  four  faces;  the  leg,  from  the  knee-joint  to  the 
bottom  of  the  foot,  measures  two  heads  and  a-half;  the  foot,  which  is 
one-sixth  of  the  human  stature,  if  divided  into  three  parts,  will  con- 
tain first  the  toes  from  the  top  of  the  large  one  to  the  lowest  joint  of 
the  little  one;  next  the  middle  of  the  foot,  and  lastly  the  heel  and 
instep.  There  is  also  a  slight  difference  between  the  proportions  of  a 
male  and  female.  In  infancy  and  very  early  youth  the  form  is  very 
much  alike  in  both  sexes.  The  head  is  oval,  very  much  extended 
backwards,  with  the  forehead  and  top  of  the  head  comparatively  flat; 
the  jaw-bones  are  short  and  have  little  depth  ;  the  bones  of  the  nose 
are  short  and  flat ;  in  the  male  subject,  the  elevation  of  the  frontal 
sinuses  at  the  eyebrows,  which  characterizes  the  male  head,  is  want- 
ing ;  and  the  neck  is  very  small  in  proportion  to  the  head.  In  old  age 
the  cheeks  and  mouth  fall  in,  because  of  the  wasting  of  the  teeth  ; 
the  nose  and  chin  approach  each  other ;  the  fat  is  absorbed,  and  the 
muscles  shrink,  which  covers  the  surface  with  wrinkles  ;  and  in  time, 
the  bones  too  are  wasted,  and  the  figure  bends  beneath  its  own 
weight.  With  these  directions  proceed  to  model  the  human  figure, 
referring  to  anatomical  plates  for  the  position  of  the  muscles,  &c. 
When  the  figure  is  complete,  proceed  to  dress  it  in  any  style  or  cos- 
tume you  may  fancy,  making  it  from  the  same  paste,  and  colouring 
it,  giving  the  figure  any  attitude  you  may  think  proper,  but  always 
prefer  the  graceful,  avoiding  the  stiff  and  awkward.  The  modelling 
of  animals  and  birds  is  on  the  same  principle,  the  wings  of  the  latter 


THE    CONFECTIONER. 


91 


being  pushed  or  cut  in  moulds  or  pasteboards.  Flowers  are  mostly 
done  with  cutters  in  the  form  of  the  leaf  of  the  flowers  you  would 
wish  to  represent ;  form  the  calyx  in  a  mould,  and  fasten  it  on  a  piece 
of  wire  ;  fix  the  leaves  on  the  calyx  to  imitate  nature,  and  colour 
them  accordingly. 


2. 


4. 


92  THE   CONFECTIONER. 

Modelling  Tools. — No.  1  is  termed  the  rose-stick,  the  thin  flat  end 
being  used  for  forming  the  leaves  of  roses  out  of  modelling  wax  by 
flattening  a  piece  of  it  on  a  table  until  it  is  of  the  required  form  and 
size ;  the  other  end  is  used  for  fluting  and  making  borders. 

No.  2  is  by  some  termed  a  foot  tool,  being  used  for  forming  the 
edges  and  borders  to  wax  baskets,  the  circular  end  being  necessary 
for  working  underneath  any  part,  or  circular  mouldings,  and  also  for 
the  paws  of  animals. 

No.  3.  The  curved  thin  end  is  used  as  a  cutting  tool,  and  for  the 
formation  of  leaves ;  and  the  opposite  end  for  fluting. 

No.  4  serves  as  a  gouge,  and  is  used  in  the  formation  of  leaves  for 
flowers. 

The  curves  of  each  tool  are  also  requisite  for  different  purposes  in 
modelling,  and  for  forming  the  raised  and  depressed  parts  in  the 
human  figure,  animals,  &c.  They  should  be  made  of  beech,  as  it 
relieves  better  when  used  about  fat  or  modelling  wax.  There  are 
many  others,  but  these  will  be  found  quite  sufficient  for  most  purposes, 
with  the  dotting  or  pointing  tool,  which  a  common  skewer,  or  piece 
of  round  pointed  stick  will  supply  its  place.  The  tool  usually  made 
for  this  purpose  has  a  concave  or  semicircular  hollow  at  the  thick  end, 
for  making  beading,  or  else  with  a  flat  round  end,  similar  to  a  tam- 
bour needle;  the  last  being  used  for  working  up  the  leaves  of  roses, 
&c.,  in  the  hollow  of  the  hand,  when  they  are  made  of  gum-paste. 

Modelling  Wax. — This  is  made  of  white  wax,  which  is  melted  and 
mixed  with  lard  to  make  it  malleable.  In  working  it,  the  tools  and 
the  board  or  stone  are  moistened  with  water  to  prevent  its  adhering ; 
it  may  be  coloured  to  any  desired  tint  with  dry  colour. 


SECTION    XXII. ON    COLOURS. 

MANY  of  the  colours  prepared  for  use  in  this  art  come  more  pro- 
perly under  the  denomination  of  dyes,  alum  and  cream  of  tartar 
being  used  as  a  mordant ;  and  many  of  them  are  prepared  in  the 
same  manner  as  for  dyeing.  One  of  the  principal  colours  requisite 
for  the  confectioner's  use  is  coccinella,  or  cochineal.  The  sorts  gene- 
rally sold  are  the  black,  silver,  foxy,  and  the  granille.  The  insect  ia 
of  two  species,  the  fine  and  the  wild  cochineal ;  the  fine  differs  from 
the  wild  in  size,  and  is  also  covered  with  a  white  mealy  powder.  The 
best  is  of  a  deep  mulberry  colour,  with  a  white  powder  between  the 
wrinkles,  and  a  bright  red  within.  A  great  deal  of  adulteration  ia 
practised  with  this  article^  both  at  home  and  abroad ;  it  is  on  this 
account  that  persons  prefer  the  silver  grain,  because  it  cannot  be  so 
well  sophisticated.  Good  cochineal  should  be  heavy,  dry,  and  more 
or  less  of  a  silvery  colour,  and  without  smell. 

To  prepare  Cochineal — Pound  an  ounce  of  cochineal  quite  fine, 
and  put  it  into  a  pint  of  river  water  with  a  little  potash  or  soda,  and 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  93 

iel  it  boil ;  then  add  about  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  powdered  alum,  the 
same  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  boil  for  ten  minutes;  if  it  is  required  for 
keeping,  add  two  or  three  ounces  of  powdered  loaf  sugar. 

Carmine. — Reduce  one  ounce  of  cochineal  to  a  fine  powder,  add  to 
it  six  qunrts  of  clear  rain  or  filtered  water,  as  for  cochineal.  Put  this 
into  a  large  tin  saucepan,  or  a  copper  one  tinned,  and  let  it  boil  for 
three  minutes,  then  add  twenty-five  grains  of  alum,  and  let  it  boil 
two  minutes  longer;  take  it  off  the  fire  to  cool;  when  it  is  blood 
warm  pour  off  the  clear  liquor  into  shallow  vessels,  and  put  them  by 
to  settle  for  two  days,  covering  them  with  paper  to  keep  out  the  dust. 
In  case  the  carmine  has  not  separated  properly,  add  a  few  drops  of  a 
solution  of  tin,  or  a  solution  of  green  vitriol,  which  is  tin  dissolved  in 
muriatic  acid,  or  the  following  may  be  substituted : — one  ounce  and  a 
half  of  spirit  of  nitre,  three  scruples  of  sal-ammoniac,  three  scruples 
of  tin  dissolved  in  a  bottle,  and  use  a  few  drops  as  required.  When 
the  carmine  has  settled,  decant  off  the  clear  which  is  liquid  rouge. 
The  first  sediment  is  Florence  lake,  which  remove,  and  dry  the 
carmine  for  use.  This  preparation  is  by  far  superior  to  the  first,  for 
in  this  the  same  colour  is  obtained  as  before,  which  is  the  liquid  rouge, 
the  other  and  more  expensive  parts  being  invariably  thrown  away. 
The  carmine  can  be  obtained  by  f.he  first  process,  as  can  be  seen  if 
the  whole  is  poured  into  a  cleai  Dottle  and  allowed  to  settle,  when 
the  carmine  will  be  deposited  in  a  layer  of  bright  red  near  the 
bottom.  It  produces  about  half  an  ounce  of  carmine. 

Yellow. — Infuse  saffron  in  warm  water,  and  use  it  for  colouring 
any  thing  that  is  eatable.  The  English  hay-saffron  is  the  best ;  it  is 
taken  from  the  tops  of  the  pistils  of  the  crocus  flower ;  it  is  fre- 
quently adulterated  with  th«  flowers  of  marygolds  or  safflower,  which 
is  known  as  the  bastard  saffron,  and  is  pressed  into  thin  cakes  with 
oil.  Good  saffron  has  a  strong  agreeable  odour,  and  an  aromatic  taste. 
Gum  paste  and  other  articles  which  are  not  eaten  may  be  coloured 
with  gamboge  dissolved  in  warm  water. 

Prussian  Blue  may  be  used  instead  of  indigo,  if  preferred,  but  must 
be  used  sparingly. 

Sap  Green. — This  is  prepared  from  the  fruit  of  the  buckthorn,  and 
is  purgative. 

Spinach  Green. — This  is  perfectly  harmless  and  will  answer  most 
purposes.  Wash  and  drain  a  sufficient  quantity  of  spinach,  pound  it 
well  in  a  mortar,  and  squeeze  the  pounded  leaves  in  a  coarse  cloth  to 
extract  all  the  juice;  put  it  in  a  pan  and  set  it  on  a  good  fire,  and  stir 
it  occasionally  until  it  curdles,  which  will  be  when  it  is  at  the  boiling 
point;  then  take  it  off  and  strain  off  the  water  with  a  fine  sieve;  the 
residue  left  is  the  green;  dry  it  and  rub  it  through  a  lawn  sieve. 
This  is  only  fit  for  opaque  bodies,  such  as  ices,  creams,  or  syrups. 

Another  green  is  made  with  a  mixture  of  saffron  or  gamboge,  and 
prepared  indigo;  the  lighter  the  green  the  more  yellow  must  be  used. 


94  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

Vermilion  and  Cinnabar  are  preparations  of  mercury,  and  should 
never  be  used  ;  they  are  of  a  lively  red  colour,  but  carmine  will 
answer  most  purposes  instead. 

Bole  Ammoniac. — There  is  also  the  French  and  German  bole.  These 
earths  are  of  a  pale  red,  and  possess  alexipharmic  qualities;  they  are 
frequently  used  in  confectionary  for  painting  and  gilding.  - 

Umber. — This  is  of  a  blackish  brown  colour;  it  is  an  earth  found 
near  Cologne. 

Bistre. — This  is  an  excellent  light  brown  colour  prepared  from  wood 
soot. 

These  browns  are  harmless,  but  sugar  may  be  substituted  for  them 
to  any  shade  required  by  continuing  the  boiling  after  it  has  passed  the 
degree  of  caramel  until  it  is  burnt,  when  it  gives  a  black-brown,  but 
water  may  be  mixed  with  it  so  as  to  lessen  the  shades.  Dissolved 
chocolate  may  also  be  substituted  in  some  cases  for  the  brown  colours. 

Black. — Blue-black  is  powdered  charcoal,  or  ivory  black,  which  is 
obtained  from  the  smoke  of  burnt  ivory;  but  bone  black  is  generally 
substituted  instead  ;  either  of  these  may  be  used,  but  are  only  required 
for  painting  gum  paste,  when  not  intended  to  be  eaten. 

Obtain  any  of  these  colours  in  fine  powder,  and  mix  them  with 
some  dissolved  gum  Arabic,  a  little  water,  and  a  pinch  of  powdered 
sugar  candy;  mix  them  to  the  required  consistence  for  painting.  For 
sugars  they  must  be  used  in  a  liquid  state,  and  be  added  before  it  has 
attained  the  proper  degree ;  it  may  also  be  used  in  the  same  manner 
for  ices,  creams,  &c.,  and  for  icings  it  can  be  used  either  way. 

THE    SHADES    PRODUCED    BY    A    MIXTURE    OP    COLOURS. 

Purple. — Mix  carmine  or  cochineal,  and  a  small  portion  of  indigo. 

Lilac. — The  same,  making  the  blue  predominate. 

Orange. — Yellow,  with  a  portion  of  red. 

Gold. — The  same,  but  the  yellow  must  be  more  in  excess. 

Lemon. — Use  a  solution  of  saffron. 

Green. — Blue  and  yellow. 


SECTION    XXIII. DISTILLATION. 

THIS  art  is  of  great  importance  to  a  confectioner,  as  it  enables  him 
to  make  his  own  oils,  waters,  and  spirits  for  liqueurs  and  ratafias, 
instead  of  purchasing  at  a  high  rate  those  vile  adulterations  which 
are  often  sold. 

The  still  or  apparatus  for  distilling  consists  of  a  cucurbit,  which  is 
a  copper  pot  or  boiler,  and  contains  the  wash,  dregs,  or  infusions  to 
be  distilled.  A  cover,  with  a  large  tapering  neck  or  pipe  in  the  cen 
tre,  is  fixed  on,  and  a  continuation  of  small  pipe,  made  either  of  tin 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  95 

or  pewter,  of  several  feet  in  length,  is  bent  into  a  spiral  form,  and 
termed  the  worm.  This  is  placed  in  a  tub  containing  water,  which 
is  fastened  on  to  the  end  of  the  neck.  The  joints  or  crevices  are 
luted,  to  prevent  evaporation,  with  a  paste  made  of  linseed  meal,  or 
equal  portions  of  slacked  lime  or  whitening,  flour  and  salt,  moistened 
with  water,  and  spread  on  rags  or  pieces  of  bladder,  when  it  is  applied 
to  the  joints  and  crevices.  The  water  in  the  tub  where  the  worm  is 
should  be  kept  quite  cold,  except  in  distilling  oil  of  anise-seeds ;  and 
for  this  purpose  a  tap  or  cock  should  be  placed  about  half-way  down 
the  tub,  that  the  top  of  the  water  may  be  drawn  off  when  it  is  warm. 
Again  fill  it  with  cold  water,  and  keep  coarse  cloths  dipped  in  cold 
water  to  put  round  the  alembic  or  still  in  case  it  should  boil  too  fast. 
It  is  by  these  means  that  the  steam  or  vapour  which  rises  with  the 
heat  is  condensed,  and  runs  out  at  the  end  of  the  pipe  in  a  small  stream. 
If  the  operation  is  well  conducted,  it  should  never  exceed  this.  When 
the  phlegm  arises,  which  is  a  watery  insipid  liquor,  the  receiver  must 
be  withdrawn,  for  if  a  drop  of  it  should  run  in,  it  must  be  cohobated, 
that  is,  re-distilled,  as  it  will  thicken  the  spirit  and  spoil  the  taste. 

The  still  should  not  be  filled  above  three  parts  full,  to  prevent  it 
rising  over  the  neck,  should  it  happen  to  boil  violently,  as  in  this  case 
it  would  spoil  what  is  already  drawn,  which  must  be  re-distilled. 


ON    ESSENTIAL    OILS. 

To  obtain  these  from  plants  or  peels,  the  articles  should  be  infused 
for  two  or  three  days,  or  even  longer,  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  cold 
water,  until  it  has  fully  penetrated  the  pores  of  the  materials.  Foi 
this  purpose  roots  should  be  cut  into  thin  slices,  barks  reduced  to  a 
coarse  powder,  and  seeds  slightly  bruised  ;  those  of  soft  and  loose 
texture  require  to  be  infused  two  or  three  days,  the  harder  and  more 
compact  a  week  or  two,  whilst  some  tender  herbs  and  plants  require 
to  be  distilled  directly.  After  the  solvent  has  fully  penetrated,  distil 
it  with  an  open  fire ;  that  is,  a  fire  under  the  still  like  a  common 
washing  copper,  which  immediately  strikes  the  bottom.  Regulate 
the  fire  so  as  to  make  it  boil  as  speedily  as  possible,  and  that  the  oil 
may  continue  to  distil  freely  during  the  whole  process;  for  the  longer 
it  is  submitted  to  an  unnecessary  heat  without  boiling,  a  greater  por- 
tion of  the  oil  is  mixed  with  the  water  than  there  would  otherwise  be. 
The  oil  comes  over  the  water,  and  either  sinks  to  the  bottom  or 
swims  on  the  top,  according  as  it  is  lighter  or  heavier  than  that  fluid. 
What  comes  over  at  first  is  more  fragrant  than  that  towards  the  end, 
which  is  thicker,  and  should  be  re-distilled  by  a  gentle  heat,  when  it 
leaves  a  resinous  matter  behind. 

All  essential  oils,  after  they  are  distilled,  should  be  suffered  to  stand 
some  days  in  open  bottles  or  vessels,  loosely  covered  with  paper  to 
keep  out  the  dust,  until  they  have  lost  their  disagreeable  fiery  odour, 
and  become  quite  limpid :  put  them  into  small  bottles,  and  keep  them 


96  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

quite  full  in  a  cold  place.  The  light  oils  pass  over  the  swan  neck  of 
the  common  still,  but  the  heavier  ones  will  not  so  readily,  therefore  a 
large  low  head  is  preferable ;  the  heavier  oils  are  those  from  cloves, 
allspice,  cinnamon,  &c.,  or  such  as  contain  a  portion  of  resin. 

Some  plants  yield  three  times  as  much  oil,  if  gathered  when  the 
flowers  begin  to  fall  off, — as  lavender;  others  when  young,  before 
they  have  sent  forth  any  flowers,— as  sage ;  and  others  when  the 
flowers  begin  to  appear,^as  thyme. 

All  fragrant  herbs  yield  a  large  portion  of  oil  when  produced  in 
dry  soils  and  warm  summers.  Herbs  and  flowers  give  out  a  larger 
quantity  of  oil  after  they  have  been  partly  dried  in  a  dry  shady  place. 
Four  pounds  of  the  leaves  of  the  dried  mint  yield  one  ounce  of  oil, 
but  six  pounds  of  fresh  leaves  only  three  drachms  and  a-half.  This 
oil  is  more  fine  and  bright  when  rectified — that  is,  re-distilled. 

After  the  distillation  of  one  oil,  the  worm  should  be  carefully 
cleansed,  bypassing  a  little  spirit  of  wine  through  it,  before  another 
is  proceeded  with. 

A  great  quantity  of  oil  is  wasted  by  confectioners  when  they  pre- 
serve their  lemon  and  orange  peels  by  boiling  them  in  open  vessels 
instead  of  a  still ;  what  is  saved  by  this  means  alone  would  soon  repay 
the  expense  of  the  apparatus. 


DISTILLED    WATERS. 

These  are  obtained  in  a  similar  manner  to  the  oils,  with  a  high 
narrow-necked  still,  and  differ  from  them  by  the  oil  being  retained  or 
united  with  the  water.  Plants  for  this  purpose  should  be  gathered 
fresh  on  a  dry  day,  as  the  water  drawn  from  them  in  this  state  is 
more  aromatic  when  they  are  dry  ;  for  the  oil  is  mixed  with  an  aque- 
ous fluid  in  the  plant,  which  concretes  and  separates  in  drying. 

Herbs  should  be  bruised  and  steeped  for  a  day  in  about  three  times 
their  quantity  of  water  when  green,  but  considerably  more  when  dry  ; 
but  at  all  times  sufficient  water  should  be  added  that  some  may  be 
left  to  prevent  the  herbs  or  flowers  being  burnt  to  the  bottom  of  the 
still.  After  all  the  water  is  drawn,  the  distillation  should  continue 
so  long  as  any  taste  or  smell  of  the  ingredients  comes  over  ;  and  the 
fire  should  be  so  regulated  that  the  water  may  run  in  a  small  con- 
tinued stream. 

If  a  superior  article  is  required,  it  must  be  re-distilled  by  a  gentle 
heat,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  pure  spirit  (about  one-twentieth 
part)  which  has  not  got  any  bad  smell. 

Orange-Flower  Water. — The  leaves  of  orange  flowers  three  pounds, 
water  three  pints. 

Rose  Water.  —  As  orange  flower,  using  either  the  damask  or  pale 
single  rose.  Neither  the  purgative  quality  of  the  damask,  nor  the 
astringent  quality  of  red  roses,  rises  in  distillation,  but  is  contained  in 
the  water  left  in  the  still. 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  97 

Cinnamon  Wait'r.  —  Cinnamon  one  pound,  water  two  gallons. 
Bruise  or  break  the  spice,  and  infuse  it  in  water  for  two  days.  Some 
consider  it  sufficient  to  simmer  the  spice  in  the  still  for  half  an  hour, 
putting  back  what  comes  over,  and  filtering  the  whole  when  cold 
through  a  flannel  bag  or  blotting  paper. 

Peppermint  Water.  —  Dried  herb  one  pound  and  a  half,  or  green 
herb  three  pounds,  to  a  gallon  of  water. 

Lemon-Peel  Water. — Two  pounds  of  fresh  peel  to  the  gallon. 

Black-Cherry  Water. — Twelve  pounds  of  ripe  fruit  to  a  gallon  of 
water.  Bruise  the  fruit  in  a  mortar  so  as  to  break  the  stones,  that 
the  flavour  of  the  kernel  may  be  obtained. 

Angelica,  star,  anise-seed,  caraway,  lavender,  rosemary,  myrtle, 
vanilla,  raspberry,  strawberry,  and  all  other  waters,  are  made  in  the 
same  manner;  the  first  half  of  the  water  which  comes  over  is  the  best 
and  strongest. 

SPIRITS    FOR    LIQUEURS. 

Spirits  and  alcohol  are  obtained  by  the  distillation  of  fermented 
articles.  The  peculiar  taste  of  each  depends  on  the  essential  oil  of 
the  article  from  which  it  is  prepared  being  held  in  solution :  there- 
fore, by  knowing  the  nature  of  its  oil,  alcohol  may  be  made  to  imitate 
any  desired  spirit.  A  few  drops  of  nitric  ether  added  to  malt  spirit 
will  impart  to  it  the  flavour  of  cognac  brandy ;  and  two  scruples  of 
benzoic  acid,  mixed  with  one  quart  of  rum,  will  give  it  the  taste  of 
arrack.  Brandy  is  generally  recommended  for  the  use  of  the  confec- 
tioner in  making  spirits  for  liqueurs,  but  a  superior  article  may  be 
made  with  less  expense  from  rectified  spirits  of  wine,  or  pure  spirit 
which  has  neither  taste  nor  smell,  as  the  spirit  afterwards  drawn  will 
only  have  the  flavour  of  the  articles  with  which  it  is  required  to  be 
impregnated.  Rectified  spirits  may  be  obtained  from  the  dregs  of 
beer,  cider,  ale  or  wine,  suitable  for  any  purpose,  as  well  as  from 
brandy. 

Spirits  rise  in  the  still  with  less  heat  than  watery  infusions,  there- 
fore it  is  best  to  distil  by  means  of  the  bain-marie,  that  is,  by  the  still 
being  placed  in  another  vessel  containing  water.  This  method  is 
more  safe,  as  it  prevents  accidents,  and  the  articles  from  being  burnt. 

Common  spirits  may  be  deprived  of  their  impurities  by  mixing  them 
with  an  equal  quantity  of  water,  and  distilling  them  by  a  gentle  heat, 
or  in  a  water-bath.  Continue  the  operation  until  the  phlegm  arises, 
which  will  appear  rnilky  and  is  of  a  nauseous  taste.  A  great  quan- 
tity of  the  oil  which  it  retained  will  remain  in  the  water.  If  the 
spirit  was  very  impure,  a  second  rectification  may  be  necessary,  as 
before.  A  very  pure  and  tasteless  spirit  may  be  obtained  by  mixing 
with  the  spirit,  after  rectification,  one-fourth  of  its  weight  of  pure  dry 
salt  of  wormwood  or  tartar.  Let  it  stand  a  little  time  in  a  gentle  heat, 
and  distil  in  the  bain-marie.  A  small  portion  of  alum  being  added, 
9 


98  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

prevents  any  of  the  salt  being  brought  over  with  the  spirit.  The 
result  is  pure  alcohol.  It  may  be  reduced  to  proof  spirit  by  mixing 
twenty  ounces  of  alcohol  with  seventeen  of  water,  by  weight. 

Distilled  Spirituous  Waters  for  Liqueurs. — Orange,  rose,  pink,  jes- 
samine, and  all  other  flowers,  are  made  by  adding  eight  pounds  of 
the  leaves  or  petals  of  the  flowers  to  a  gallon  of  pure  proof  spirit. 
Put  them  in  a  cold  cellar  or  ice-house  to  infuse  for  a  week.  Distil  in 
the  bain-marie  to  drynese.  If  they  are  distilled  on  an  open  gentle 
fire,  water  should  be  added  to  the  articles  when  they  are  put  on  the 
fire,  so  as  to  prevent  their  being  burnt. 

Lavender,  mint,  rosemary,  angelica,  the  yellow  rind  of  lemon  and 
orange  peels,  and  bergamot,  lemon,  vanilla,  ginger,  and  orris-root  for 
violet,  and  other  herbs,  are  made  by  adding  two  pounds  of  the  plant, 
&c.,  partly  dried,  to  a  gallon  of  pure  proof  spirit.  Let  it  steep  in  a 
jar  close  covered  for  twelve  or  fourteen  days  in  a  cool  place,  and  dis- 
til in  the  bain-marie.  Myrtle  and  balm-me/tssa?,  one  pound  to  the  gal- 
lon. If  any  of  the  waters  appear  rather  turbid  when  they  are  first 
drawn,  they  will  become  clear  and  bright  by  standing  a  few  days. 
Filter  them  through  blotting  paper-placed  in  a  glass  or  earthenware 
funnel  over  a  bottle  to  receive  them. 

Strawberries,  raspberries,  &c.,  sixteen  pounds  to  the  gallon. 

Cinnamon,  coriander,  caraways,  cloves,  &c.,  are  made  by  adding 
one  pound  of  the  bruised  seed  or  spice  to  the  gallon  of  proof  spirit. 
Cardamoms  four  ounces,  nutmegs  and  mace  three  ounces  to  the  gallon. 

Hungary  Water^  or  Jiqua  Reginse. — Fresh  gathered  rosemary  flow- 
ers  in  full  bloom,  four  pounds  to  the  gallon  of  pure  proof  spirit.  It 
may  also  be  made  with  the  addition  of  one  pound  of  each  of  marjo- 
ram and  lavender  flowers,  and  two  quarts  more  of  spirit.  Distil  im- 
mediately. Half  a  pound  of  sage  leaves,  and  two  ounces  of  ginger, 
are  recommended  as  an  excellent  addition  by  foreign  writers. 

Maraschino  de  Zara. —  Morello  cherries  nine  pounds,  black  wild 
cherries  seven  pounds,  or  sixteen  pounds  of  Morello  cherries,*  one 
pint  and  a-quarter  of  Kirchenwasser,  spirit  of  roses  one  ounce  and 
a-half,  spirit  of  orange  flowers  one  ounce  and  a-half,  of  jessamine  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce,  peach  or  cherry  leaves  one  pound  and  a-quarter ; 
pick  the  stalks  from  the  cherries  and  press  out  their  juice,  pound  the 
stones  and  skins  with  the  leaves  in  a  mortar,  and  steep  all  together 
for  a  fortnight, — some  only  filter  the  infusion, — and  add  to  it  four 
pounds  and  a-half  of  treble-refined  sugar;  dissolve  and  strain  through 
a  jelly-bag ;  but  a  superior  spirit  may  be  obtained  by  the  addition  of 
four  quarts  of  rectified  proof  spirit ;  distil  with  the  bain-marie,  and 
rectify. 

*  Genuine  Maraschino  is  the  spirit  of  Morello  cherries,  as  Kirchen- 
wasser is  of  black  cherries.  Maraschino  may  also  be  made  from  goose- 
berries. Ripe  gooseberries  102  pounds ;  black  cherry  leaves  bruised,  12 
pounds  ;  ferment  as  Kirchenwasser ;  distil  and  rectify  it. 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  9Jj 

^^  ^     ^ ., ^_ 

Kirchenwasser. — Get  some  small  black  cherries  and  a  few  Morello 
cherries  quite  ripe,  take  off  their  stalks  and  put  them  in  a  cask  with 
the  head  off,  cover  the  top  or  surface  of  the  cherries  with  mortar  or 
wood  ashes  mixed  to  a  consistence  with  water,  let  them  stand  for  six 
weeks  or  two  months,  during  which  time  they  will  ferment,  then 
take  off  the  covering  and  distil  them. 

Eau  Divine.  —  Essence  of  bergamont  and  lemon,  of  each  one 
drachm,  rectified  spirit  one  gallon^  fresh  balm  leaves  two  ounces; 
distil  with  the  bain-marie;  add  orange-flower  water  five  ounces.  The 
liquor  is  made  by  adding  to  this  four  pounds  of  treble  refined  sugar 
dissolved  in  two  gallons  of  water. 

Eau  de  Cologne. — Spirit  of  rosemary  two  quarts,  essence  of  berga- 
mot  four  ounces,  balm  water  two  quarts,  essence  of  cedrats  and  citrons 
four  ounces,  neroli  two  drachms,  rosemary  two  ounces,  spirits  of  wine 
ten  quarts;  draw  fourteen  quarts. 

Balm  water  two  pints  and  a-quarter,  spirit  of  rosemary  three  pounds 
and  a-half,  oil  of  rosemary  one  drachm,  essence  of  lemon  three 
drachms,  of  cedrats  two  drachms,  of  neroli  two  drachms  and  a-half, 
of  bergamot  three  drnchms,  rectified  spirit  twelve  pounds,  distil  in 
the  bain-marie,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place  for  some  time. 

Curagao. — This  is  a  species  of  wild  or  bitter  orange ;  the  dried 
peel  may  be  obtained  from  the  chemists ;  the  yellow  peel  of  Seville 
oranges,  dried  and  powdered,  will  answer  as  well;  use  one  pound  to 
the  gallon  of  rum  or  rectified  spirit,  and  distil  as  the  others. 

Eau  de  Melisse  des  Carmes.  —  Spirit  of  balm  eight  pints,  spirit  of 
lemon  and  citron  four  pints ;  spirit  of  nutmegs,  musk,  and  coriander, 
of  each  two  pints,  spirit  of  thyme,  cinnamon,  anise-seed,  marjoram, 
hyssop,  green-verdigris,  or  the  vitriol  of  iron,  sage,  angelica-root,  and 
cloves,  of  each  one  pint;  distil,  and  keep  in  an  ice-house  for  twelve 
months.  Supposed  to  be  the  original  recipe  of  the  barefooted  Car- 
melites, now  in  possession  of  the  Company  of  Apothecaries  of  Paris. 

The  English  Method. — Fresh  bairn  leaves  four  ounces,  fresh  lemon- 
peel  two  ounces  (the  yellow  rind),  coriander  seeds  and  nutmegs,  of 
each  one  ounce,  angelica-root,  cinnamon,  and  cloves,  of  each  half  an 
ounce,  rectified  spirit  two  pounds,  brandy  two  pounds,  powder  the  dry 
ingredients,  and  steep  the  whole  in  a  close  vessel  with  the  spirit  for 
four  or  five  days.  Two  pints  of  rectified  spirit  and  one  pint  of  balm- 
water  may  be  used  instead  of  the  spirit  and  brandy;  distil  in  the 
bain-marie  nearly  to  dryness;  re-distil  and  keep  it  for  some  time  in  a 
cold  cellar  or  ice-house.  This  is  an  elegant  and  beautiful  cordial. 

Spirit  of  Coffee. — One  pound  of  the  best  Mocha  coffee,  fresh  roasted 
and  ground,  add  to  it  one  gallon  of  rectified  proof  spirit,  let  it  infuse 
for  a  week,  and  distil  in  the  bain-marie. 

Spirit  of  bitter  Jllmonds.  —  One  pound  of  blanched  almonds,  one 
gallon  of  proof  spirit;  pound  the  almonds  quite  fine  with  a  little 
water,  to  prevent  their  oiling,  add  them  to  the  spirit  with  an  ounce 


100  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

of  bruised  angelica-root,  steep  for  a  week,  and  distil  in  the  bain- 
marie. 

Spirit  <>f  Tea.— Four  ounces  of  the  best  tea  to  a  gallon  of  rectified 
proof  spirit,  pour  a  little  cold  water  on  the  tea  and  let  it  infuse  for 
three  or  four  hours,  add  it  to  the  spirit,  and  distil  it  in  a  week. 

Eseubac — Usquebaugh. — Saffron  one  ounce,  catechu  three  ounces, 
ambergris  halt  a  grain,  dates  without  their  kernels,  and  raisins,  each 
three  ounces,  jujubes  six  ounces,  anise-seed,  cloves,  mace,  and  cori 
ander  seed  one  drachm,  cinnamon  two  drachms,  proof  spirit  six  quarts, 
pound  the  ingredients,  infuse  for  a  week  and  distil.  The  whole  of 
these  spirituous  distilled  waters  are  for  making  liquors  and  for  fla- 
vouring ices,  liqueurs,  bon-bons,  drops,  &c.,  or  anything  in  which 
liquors  are  introduced. 

LIQUEURS. 

These  are  made  by  mixing  equal  proportions  of  any  of  the  spirits, 
water,  and  sugar  together,  that  is,  one  pint  of  spirit,  one  pint  of 
water,  one  pound  of  the  treble-refined  sugar;  dissolve  the  sugar  in 
the  water,  add  it  to  the  spirit,  and  filter  through  blotting-paper ;  being 
perfectly  clear  and  colourless  when  drawn,  they  require  to  be  coloured 
of  the  same  tint  as  the  articles  from  which  they  were  extracted,  and 
for  this  purpose  none  but  those  which  are  perfectly  harmless  should 
be  employed,  as  prepared  cochineal,  infusion  of  saffron,  burnt  sugars 
or  indigo. 


RATAFIAS. 

These  are  liqueurs  made  by  the  infusion  of  the  ingredients  in  spi- 
rits, and  are  similarly  composed  to  the  spirituous  wafers,  but  instead 
of  being  distilled  they  are  simply  filtered,  and  sugar  is  added  to  them. 

Ratafia  de  Cafe. — Fresh  roasted  Mocha  coffee  ground,  one  pound, 
proof  spirit  one  gallon,  loaf  sugar  one  pound  and  a  half;  infuse  for  a 
week,  string  it  every  other  day,  filter,  bottle,  and  cork  close. 

Ratafia  de  Cacao. — Cacao  of  Caracca  one  pound,  West  India  cocoa 
nuts  eight  ounces,  proof  spirit  one  gallon,  roast  the  nuts  and  bruise 
them,  add  them  to  the  spirit  and  infuse  for  fourteen  days,  stirring 
them  occasionally,  filter  and  add  thirty  drops  of  essence  of  vanilla 
and  two  pounds  of  sugar. 

Ratafia  des  Noyaux. — Haifa  pound  of  bitter  almonds,  half  a  pound 
of  sweet  almonds,  proof  spirit  one  gallon,  (peach  or  apricot  kernels 
may  be  used  instead  of  the  bitter  almonds),  three  pounds  of  loaf  sugar; 
beat  the  almonds  fine  with  part  of  the  sugar,  steep  the  whole  together 
for  twelve  or  fourteen  days,  and  filter;  this  liqueur  will  be  much  im- 
proved if  rectified  spirit  is  reduced  to  proof  with  the  juice  of  apricots 
or  peaches. 


THE    CONFECTIONER.  101 

Ratafia  of  Cherries. — Morello  cherries  eight  pounds,  black  cherries 
eight  pounds,  raspberries  and  red  or  white  currants  of  each  two 
pounds,  coriander-seeds  three  ounces,  cinnamon  half  an  ounce,  mace 
half  an  ounce,  proof  spirit  one  gallon;  press  out  the  juice  from  the 
fruit,  take  one-half  of  the  stones  of  the  cherries  and  pound  them  with 
the  spices,  and  add  two  pounds  and  a  half  of  sugar,  steep  for  a  month 
and  filter. 

Ratafia  des  Cassis. — Ripe  black  currants  six  pounds,  cloves  half  a 
drachm,  cinnamon  one  drachm,  black  currant  leaves  one  pound  and  a 
half,  Morello  cherries  two  pounds,  sugar  five  pounds,  proof  spirit  eight 
quarts;  bruise  the  spice,  infuse  a  fortnight,  filter,  and  bottle. 

Ratafia  of  Raspberries. — Raspberries  quite  ripe  eight  pounds,  proof 
spirit  one  gallon,  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cinnamon  and  cloves,  steep 
for  fourteen  days,  stirring  it  occasionally.  Currants  and  strawberries 
are  made  the  same. 

Ratafia  des  Fleurs  des  Oranges. — Fresh  orange-flowers  two  pounds, 
proof  spirit  one  gallon,  sugar  two  pounds;  infuse  for  eight  or  ten 
hours. 

Ratafia  d^CEillets. — The  petals  of  clove  pinks,  with  the  white  parts 
pulled  off,  four  pounds,  cinnamon  and  cloves  twenty-five  grains,  proof 
spirit  one  gallon,  sugar  three  pounds.  Infuse  for  a  month,  filter,  and 
bottle. 

Ratafia  d? Jlngelique. — Angelica  seeds  one  ounce,  angelica  stalks 
four  ounces,  bitter  almonds  four  ounces,  one  drachm  each  of  cinnamon 
and  cloves,  proof  spirit  six  quarts,  loaf  sugar  four  pounds.  Blanch 
and  pound  the  almonds  with  some  of  the  sugar,  or  a  little  water; 
pound  the  other  ingredients  a  little,  and  bruise  the  stalks.  Infuse  for 
a  month,  stirring  it  occasionally.  Filter  and  bottle. 

Vespetro. — Coriander  seed  one  ounce,  angelica  seed  two  ounces, 
fennel  and  anise-seed  of  each  two  drachms,  two  lemons,  two  oranges, 
the  zest  of  two  citrons,  two  quarts  of  rectified  spirit  and  two  pounds 
of  sugar,  caraway  seeds  four  grains.  Bruise  the  ingredients,  pare 
off  the  yellow  rind  of  the  lemons  and  oranges,  and  squeeze  the  juice. 
Dissolve  the  sugar  in  a  pint  of  water.  Infuse  the  whole  together  for 
fourteen  days.  Strain,  filter,  and  bottle. 

Chreme  de  Barbade. — The  yellow  rind  of  three  oranges  and  three 
lemons,  cinnamon  four  ounces,  mace  two  drachms,  cloves  one  drachm, 
rum  nine  quarts,  fresh  balm  leaves  six  ounces.  Infuse  and  distil  in 
the  bain-marie,  or  strain;  add  an  equal  quantity  of  suorar  with  water 

Chreme  c?'  Orange.  —  Thirty-six  sweet  oranges,  sliced,  tincture  of 
saffron  one  ounce  and  four  drachms,  orange-flower  water  four  pints, 
rectified  spirits  two  gallons,  water  eighteen  quarts,  loaf  sugar  eigh- 
teen pounds.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  water:  mix  the  other  articles 
and  infuse  for  a  fortnight.  Filter  and  bottle. 

Ratafia  d\4nis. — Star  anise-seed  four  ounces,  proof  spirit  one  gal- 
9* 


102  THE    CONFECTIONER. 

Ion.     Infuse  for  a  fortnight ;  add  two  pounds  of  sugar,  or  a  pint  and 
a-half  of  syrup,  and  a  little  essence  of  vanilla. 

Ratafia  de  Brout  des  Noix. — Young  walnuts,  when  the  shells  are 
not  formed,  number  eighty,  mace,  cinnamon,  and  cloves,  of  each  half 
a  drachm,  proof  spirit  one  gallon.  Pound  the  nuts  in  a  mortar,  add 
them  and  the  spice  to  the  spirit,  with  two  pounds  of  sugar.  Infuse 
for  two  months,  stirring  it  occasionally  ;  press  out  the  liquor  through 
a  cloth.  Filter  and  bottle. 


SECTION    XXV. THE    STOVE    OR    HOT    CLOSET. 

THIS  is  a  useful  and  indispensable  appendage  in  confectionary;  it 
is  generally  constructed  like  a  cupboard  in  the  recess  of  a  wall.  The 
walls  or  sides  should  be  composed  of  bricks,  or  wood  lined  with  tin 
or  sheet  iron,  to  retain  the  heat,  with  pieces  of  wood  nailed  or  fastened 
in  the  sides,  about  four  inches  asunder,  to  form  a  groove  for  trays  or 
boards  to  rest  on,  which  is  necessary  for  the  drying  of  lozenges,  com- 
fits, bon-bons,  &c. ;  there  should  also  be  a  few  strong1  shifting  shelves 
made  either  of  small  bars  of  round  iron  or  wood,  like  a  grating,  on 
which  candy  pots  or  sieves  may  be  placed ;  the  grooves  for  these 
should  be  so  constructed  as  to  be  capable  of  inclination  so  as  to  drain 
off  the  syrup  from  the  candy  pots  without  taking  them  from  the 
shelves ;  the  door  should  be  made  to  shut  close,  with  a  small  door  at 
the  top  to  let  out  any  excess  of  heat.  I  have  before  remarked  that  it 
may  be  heated  by  means  of  many  of  the  modern  stoves.  At  places 
where  the  oven  is  heated  with  wood,  furze,  &c.,  a  common  iron  pot 
or  crock  with  three  legs  is  filled  with  the  live  embers,  or  it  may  be 
filled  with  burning  charcoal  and  covered  with  wood  ashes,  which  is 
replenished  night  and  morning,  which  gives  the  heat  required. 


THE  PASTRY-COOK. 


INTRODUCTION. 

WE  now  come  to  a  very  important,  because  a  very  difficult,  branch 
of  the  art  of  baking,  whether  exercised  as  a  profession,  or  by  private 
individuals,  namely  the  manufacturing  of  what  are  technically  called 
"fancy  goods"  The  reader  scarcely  need  be  informed,  that  this 
term  includes  all  those  varieties  of  baked  manufactured  eatables,  in 
which  such  ingredients  as  sugar,  eggs,  spice,  and  butter,  are  used, 
with  many  other  not  necessary  to  enumerate  here. 

It  ought  to  be  observed^  that  the  following  directions  for  making 
the  kind  of  goods  alluded  to,  have  been  all  tested,  and  found  to  be  so 
exceedingly  accurate  as  to  proportions,  that  a  deviation  in  a  quantity 
so  small  as  an  egg,  or  even  half  an  egg,  will  deteriorate  the  quality 
of  the  article.  These  directions  are  not  generally  known  in  the  trade, 
and  out  of  the  trade  they  are  entirely,  we  believe,  unknown.  They 
will  be  found,  therefore,  a  valuable  acquisition  to  those  ladies  who 
manage  their  own  domestic  affairs,  and  who  are  in  the  habit  of  mak- 
ing little  knick-knacks  for  their  children,  or  their  dessert  tables. 

Previous  to  giving  the  directions  in  question,  it  will  be  necessary 
for  our  readers  to  be  made  acquainted  with  the  mode  of  preparing 
certain  articles,  which  are  more  or  less  employed  in  the  manufactur- 
ing fancy  goods.  We  are  aware  that  there  are  many  private  indi- 
viduals who  would  object  to  use  the  preparation  called  "  honey-wa- 
ter," as  well  as  that  called  "  prepared  treacle,"  on  the  ground  of  their 
consisting  chiefly  of  drugs.  As  regards,  however,  the  use  of  carbo- 
nate of  ammonia  (honey-water),  it  may  be  safely  affirmed,  that  there 
is,  in  small  quantities,  nothing  unhealthy  in  it,  but  on  the  contrary. 
The  truth  however  is,  the  carbonate  of  ammonia  used  in  biscuits, 
&c.,  is  volatilized  by  the  heat  of  baking,  and  of  course  it  all  escapes. 
Its  operation  is  therefore  mechanical,  and  the  only  effect  it  has  upon 
the  biscuit  is  to  make  it  light. 

With  regard  to  the  article  called  prepared  treacle,  which  consists 
of  treacle,  alum,  and  pearlash,  we  have  to  observe,  that  alum  taken 
in  considerable  quantities  is  decidedly  unwholesome,  it  being  of  a 
powerfully  astringent  nature;  but  in  the  very  small  quantity  here 

103 


104  THE    PASTRY-COOK. 

prescribed,  and  considering  that  treacle  is  an  asperient,  and  will  con- 
sequently counteract  the  effects  of  the  alum,  we  should  say,  that 
there  can  be  no  harm  in  using  it.  Pearlash,  being  an  alkali,  we 
should  consider  rather  beneficial  than  otherwise,  as  it  would  prevent 
the  treacle  of  the  ginger-bread  turning  acid  on  the  stomach. 

Having  made  these  preliminary  observations,  we  shall  at  once 
proceed  to  give  directions  for  making  those  preparations  used  in 
pastry  and  fancy  goods.  The  break  alluded  to  in  making  fancy  bis- 
cuits, is  an  instrument  similar  to  that  used  in  manufacturing  ship- 
biscuits,  but  of  course  of  much  smaller  dimensions. 


BLANCHED    ALMONDS,    ICING,    PREPARED    TREACLE,   AND 
RENNET. 

Blanched  Jllmcmds. — Cover  your  almonds  with  water,  in  a  stew- 
pan  ;  set  the  pan  on  the  fire,  and  strain  them  off  as  soon  as  the  water 
begins  to  boil,  by  which  means  the  skins  will  peel  off  easily  ;  put 
them  under  the  oven  for  a  night,  in  a  sieve,  and  they  will  be  dry  and 
fit  for  use. 

Icing  for  a  Cake.  —  Take  one  pound  of  double-refined  sugar, 
pound  it  fine,  and  sift  it  through  a  lawn  sieve;  then  beat  the  whites 
of  three  eggs  in  a  very  clean  pan,  with  a  whisk,  till  they  are  a  strong 
froth,  and  hang  round  the  pan,  leaving  the  bottom  clear;  then,  with 
a  wooden  spoon,  beat  in  your  sugar,  a  little  at  a  time,  with  about  a 
tea-spoonful  of  lemon-juice — beat  it  till  it  becomes  a  nice  thick  smooth 
batter,  and  will  hang  round  the  pan  to  any  thickness  you  may  choose 
to  spread  it.  Then,  when  your  cake  is  nearly  cold,  spread  your 
icing  nicely  over  the  top,  and  round  the  sides,  with  a  pallet-knife;  let 
it  stand  in  a  warm  place,  where  it  will  be  safe  from  hurt,  and  it  will 
eoon  dry. 

Prepared  Treacle. — Dissolve  two  ounces  of  alum  in  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  it  into  seven  pounds  of  treacle ;  ihon 
dissolve  four  ounces  of  American  pearlash  in  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
cold  water,  and  well  incorporate  it  with  the  treacle  by  stirring. 

Rennet. — Milk  is  turned  into  curds  and  whey  by  means  of  rennet, 
which  is  the  stomach  of  a  calf  taken  out  as  soon  as  it  is  killed,  well 
cleansed  from  its  contents,  then  scoured  inside  and  rubbed  with  salt ; 
when  thoroughly  salted,  it  is  stretched  on  a  stick  to  dry.  A  bit  of 
this  is  to  be  soaked  in  boiling  water  for  several  hours,  and  the  liquid 
put.  in  milk-warm  from  the  cow,  or  made  of  that  warmth.  Use  alone 
can  prescribe  the  exact  quantity  :  never  use  more  than  enough  to  turn 
it,  as  it  hardens  the  curd.  The  gizzard  skin  of  fowls  and  turkey  may 
be  prepared  in  the  same  way,  and  answer  the  same  purpose. 


THE    PASTRY-COOK.  105 

FANCY    BISCUITS. 

Aberndhy  Biscuits.— (See  Seed  Biscuits.) 

American.— Rub  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  four  pounds  of  flour, 
add  a  full  pint  of  milk,  or  water;  well  wet  them  up;  break  your 
dough  well,  and  bake  them  in  a  hot  oven. 

Brighton. — Take  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  good  moist  sugar,  and 
roll  it  till  it  is  fine;  then  pass  it  through  a  sieve  with  two  pounds  and 
a  half  of  flour ;  rub  in  two  ounces  of  butter ;  make  a  hole  in  the  mid- 
dle ;  strew  in  a  few  caraway  seeds ;  pour  in  half  a  pint  of  honey- 
water,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  milk;  beat  it  well  with  your  hand 
till  about  half  the  flour  is  incorporated;  then  mix  it  together;  roll  it 
out  in  thin  sheets;  cut  them  out,  and  place  them  on  your  buttered 
tins  about  two  inches  apart ;  wash  with  a  little  beer ;  and  bake  them 
in  a  good  steady  heat. 

Buttered. — Rub  one  pound  of  butter  into  seven  pounds  of  flour ;  wet 
up  with  one  quart  of  warm  water,  and  half  a  pint  of  good  yeast ;  break 
down  smooth ;  prove  your  dough  well ;  and  bake  in  a  strong  heat. 

Captains. — Rub  four  ounces  of  butter  into  seven  pounds  of  flour ; 
wet  up  with  a  quart  of  water;  break  your  dough  smooth;  and  bake  in 
a  good  strong  heat. 

Drop. — Warm  your  pan ;  then  put  in  one  pound  of  powdered  loaf 
sugar  and  eight  eggs ;  beat  it  with  a  whisk  till  it  becomes  milk- warm ; 
then  beat  it  till  it  is  cold ;  stir  in  a  pound  of  sugar,  two  ounces  of  fine 
sifted  flour,  with  about  half  an  ounce  of  caraway  seeds  ;  put  your  bat- 
ter into  the  bladder,  and  drop  it  through  the  pipe,  in  quantities  about 
the  size  of  a  nutmeg,  on  wafer-paper ;  sift  sugar  over  the  top,  and 
bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Filbert. — Rub  a  pound  of  butter  into  three  pounds  and  a  half  of 
flour ;  make  a  hole,  and  put  in  ten  ounces  of  powdered  loaf  sugar ; 
wet  up  with  four  table-spoonsful  of  honey  water,  one  of  orange-flower 
water,  and  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  milk ;  break  your  dough  smooth ; 
mould  them  as  large  as  a  nutmeg,  and  as  round  as  you  can ;  cut  them 
twice  across  the  top  each  way,  about  half  through,  with  a  sharp  knife ; 
place  them  on  your  tin ;  and  bake  them  in  a  steady  heat. 

Lemon. — Prepare  your  dough  as  for  filbert  biscuits,  only  leave  out 
the  orange-flower  water,  and  use  about  six  drops  of  the  essence  of 
lemon  ;  cut  them  out,  and  dock  them  with  a  lemon  docker;  bake  them 
in  a  good  steady  heat. 

Naples. — Take  six  ounces  of  good  moist  sugar,  and  six  ounces  of 
loaf;  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water;  and  proceed  the  same  as  for  diet 
cake,  with  six  eggs,  and  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour;  have  your 
tins  papered;  fill  them  nearly  full  of  the  batter;  sugar  over  the  tops; 
and  bake  them  in  rather  a  brisk  oven.  These  biscuits  are,  in  fact, 
nothing  more  than  diet-bread  batter,  fancifully  dropped  into  tin, 


106  THE    PASTRY-COOK. 

papered  with  white  paper,  and  baked  in  a  warm  oven,  with  a  little 
sugar  sifted  over  the  top. 

Queens. — Rub  one  pound  of  butter  into  two  pounds  of  flour ;  mix 
one  pound  of  powdered  sugar  with  it;  then  make  a  hole  and  pour  in 
a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  milk,  to  mix  it  up  with;  you  may  add  a  few 
caraways,  if  you  choose  ;  roll  the  paste  in  sheets  of  the  thickness  of  a 
halfpenny ;  cut  them  with  an  oval  to  about  the  size  of  an  egg;  place 
them  on  clean  tins,  but  see  that  they  do  not  quite  touch,  prick  them 
with  a  fork,  and  bake  them  in  a  slow  oven  till  they  begin  to  change 
colour;  when  they  are  cold,  they  will  be  crisp. 

Rout. — Powder  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  and  soak  it  in  three  parts 
of  half  a  pint  of  milk ;  let  it  stand  two  hours ;  then  add  two  table- 
spoonsful  of  honey  water,  and  one  egg ;  rub  half  a  pound  of  butter  into 
two  pounds  of  flour ;  make  a  hole  in  it,  and  mix  it  up  with  your  sugar 
and  milk.  Or  you  may  rub  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  two  pounds 
of  flour,  make  a  hole  and  put  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar  in  the 
middle;  then  pour  in  three  parts  of  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  two  table- 
spoonsful  of  honey  water ;  mix  it  up  together ;  let  it  lie  ten  minutes ; 
cut  it  out,  and  place  them  in  buttered  tins,  see  they  do  not  touch ; 
wash  with  milk,  and  bake  auickly. 

Savoy. — Powder  and  sift  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar;  sift  one  pound 
of  flour;  warm  a  pan,  and  put  in  the  sugar;  break  one  pound  of  egg 
upon  it;  beat  both  together  with  a  whisk  till  it  becomes  warm — beat 
till  it  is  cold,  and  then  stir  in  your  flour;  have  a  bladder  and  pipe 
ready ;  put  your  batter  into  the  bladder,  and  force  it  through  on  sheets 
of  paper ;  sift  sugar  over  them  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven ;  when  cold 
turn  them  up,  and  with  a  washing  brush  wet  the  bottom  of  the  paper; 
turn  them  back  again,  and  in  five  minutes  they  will  come  off  easily. 

Seedy. — Rub  one  pound  of  butter  into  seven  pounds  of  flour ;  roll 
one  pound  of  moist  sugar  fine,  and  put  into  the  middle  with  two 
ounces  of  caraway  seeds;  wet  up  with  one  pint  and  a  half  of  milk, 
and  one  pint  of  honey  water;  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

Wine. — Take  two  pounds  of  flour,  two  pounds  of  butter,  and  four 
ounces  of  sifted  loaf  sugar ;  rub  the  sugar  and  the  butter  into  the  flour, 
and  make  it  into  a  stiff  paste  with  milk ;  pound  it  in  a  mortar;  roll  it 
out  thin,  and  cut  it  into  sizes  and  shapes  to  your  fancy ;  lay  them  on 
buttered  paper,  in  a  warm  oven,  or  iron  plates  brushed  with  a  littlr 
milk.  When  done,  you  can  give  them  a  glaze  by  brushing  them  ovt. 
with  a  brush  dipped  in  eggs.  A  few  caraway  seeds  may  be  added 
if  thought  proper. 

York. — Prepare  your  mixture  as  for  filbert  biscuits ;  dock  them  with 
the  Duchess  of  York,  or  any  other  docker — they  are  best  baked  in  a 
hot  oven,  and  not  washed  over. 

Powder. — Dry  your  biscuits  in  a  slow  oven ;  roll  them  and  grind 
them  with  a  rolling-pin  on  a  clean  board  till  the  powder  is  fine;  sift 
it  through  a  fine  hair-sieve,  and  it  is  fit  for  use. 


THE    PASTRY-COOK.  107 

Drops. — Take  half  a  tea-cup  of  water,  six  eggs,  and  one  pound  of 
sifted  loaf  sugar — whisk  them-  together  till  thick;  then  add  a  few 
caraway  seed?!,  and  eighteen  ounces  of  flour — mix  it  lightly  together, 
and  drop  the  mixture  on  wafer-paper,  about  the  size  of  a  small  wal- 
nut; sift  sugar  over  them,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

Cracknels. — Rub  six  ounces  of  butter  into  three  pounds  and  a  half 
of  flour — make  a  hole,  and  put  in  six  ounces  of  powdered  loaf  sugar — 
wet  up  with  eight  eggs  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water — break  your 
dough  smooth  —  make  them  and  dock  them  like  a  captain's  biscuit  — 
form  them  on  your  reel;  drop  them  into  a  stew-pan  of  water  boiling 
over  the  fire  —  when  they  swim  take  them  out  with  a  skimmer,  and 
put  them  into  a  pailful  of  cold  water;  let  them  remain  full  two  hours 
before  you  bake  them — you  may  drain  them  in  a  cloth  or  in  a  sieve — 
bake  them  on  clean  tins  in  a  brisk  oven,  or  on  the  bottom  of  the  oven. 

. 

SECTION    I. THE    OVEN. 

Cakes.  —  Rich  pound-cake  ;  twelfth,  or  bride-cakes  :  butter  two 
pounds  twelve  ounces,  sugar  one  pound  twelve  ounces,  currants  five 
pounds,  citron  one  pound  and  a-half,  almonds  six  ounces,  nutmegs, 
mace,  and  cinnamon,  of  equal  parts,  in  powder,  two  ounces;  eggs 
twenty,  brandy  half  a  pint  —  these  proportions  allow  for  the  cake 
being  iced.  If  more  sugar  is  preferred,  the  quantity  must  be  the 
same  as  the  butter ;  but  less  is  used  in  this  instance,  that  the  cake 
may  be  light,  and  also  to  allow  for  the  fruit,  which  would  make  it 
too  sweet.  Double  the  quantity  of  almonds  may  be  used  if  required, 
as  some  persons  prefer  more. 

Warm  a  smooth  pan,  large  enough  for  the  mixture ;  put  in  the 
butter,  and  reduce  it  to  a  fine  cream,  by  working  it  about  the  pan 
with  your  hand.  In  summer  the  pan  need  not  be  warmed,  as  it  can 
be  reduced  to  a  cream  without;  but  in  the  winter  keep  the  mixture 
as  warm  as  possible,  without  oiling  the  butter.  Add  the  sugar  and 
mix  it  well  with  the  butter,  until  it  becomes  white  and  feels  light  in 
the  hand.  Break  in  two  or  three  eggs  at  a  time,  and  work  the  mix- 
ture well,  before  any  more  is  added.  Continue  doing  this  until  they 
are  all  used  and  it  becomes  light ;  then  add  the  spirit,  currants,  peel, 
spice,  and  almonds,  some  or  most  of  these  being  previously  cut  in 
thin  slices,  the  peel  having  also  been  cut  into  small  thin  strips  and 
bits.  When  these  are  incorporated,  mix  in  the  flour  lightly :  put  it 
in  a  hoop  with  paper  over  the  bottom  and  round  the  sides,  and  placed 
on  a  baking-plate.  Large  cakes  require  three  or  four  pieces  of  stiff 
paper  round  the  sides  ;  and  if  the  cake  is  very  large,  a  pipe  or  funnel, 
made  either  of  stiff  paper  or  tin,  and  well  buttered,  should  be  put  in 
the  centre,  and  the  mixture  placed  round  it ;  this  is  to  allow  the  mid- 
dle of  the  cake  to  be  well  baked,  otherwise  the  edge  would  be  burnt 
two  or  three  inches  deep  before  it  could  be  properly  done.  Place  the 
tin  plates  containing  the  cake  on  another,  the  surface  of  which  is 


108  THE    PASTRY-COOK. 

covered  an  inch  or  two  thick  with  sawdust  or  fine  ashes  to  protect 
the  bottom.  Bake  it  in  an  oven  at  a  moderate  heat.  The  time  re- 
quired to  bake  it  will  depend  on  the  state  of  the  oven  and  the  size  of 
the  cake.  When  the  cake  is  cold,  proceed  to  ice  it.  (See  Icings  for 
Cakes.)  Wedding-cakes  have  generally,  first,  a  coating  on  the  top 
of  almond  icing ;  when  this  is  dry,  the  sides  and  top  are  covered 
with  royal  or  white  icing.  Fix  on  any  gum  paste  or  other  orna- 
ments whilst  it  is  wet ;  and  when  dry,  ornament  it  with  piping, 
orange-blossoms,  ribbon,  &c.  ;  the  surface  and  sides  are  often  covered 
with  small  knobs  of  white  sugar  candy  whilst  the  icing  is  wet. 

Twelfth-cakes  are  iced  with  white  or  coloured  icing,  and  deco- 
rated with  gum  paste,  plaster  ornaments,  piping-paste,  rings,  knots, 
and  fancy  papers,  &c.,  and  piped. 

Savoy  Cakes  (hot  mixture). — One  pound  of  loaf  sugar  powdered, 
one  pint  of  good  eggs,  and  fourteen  ounces  of  flour.  Warm  a  pan, 
free  from  grease,  with  the  sugar  in  it  in  the  oven  until  you  can 
scarcely  bear  your  hand  against  it;  then  take  it  out  and  pour  in  the 
eggs:  whisk  the  whole  together  with  a  birch  or  wire  whisk  until  it 
is  quite  light  and  cold,  when  it  will  be  white  and  thick.  If  it  should 
not  whisk  up  well,  warm  it  again  and  beat  it  as  before ;  or  it  may  be 
beat  over  the  stove  fire  until  it  is  of  the  warmth  of  new  milk.  When 
it  is  finished,  sift  the  flour  and  stir  it  in  lightly  with  a  spoon,  adding 
a  few  drops  of  essence  of  lemon  to  flavour  it.  Butter  some  tin  or 
copper  moulds  regularly,  so  that  there  is  not  more  on  one  place  than 
another,  nor  too  thick  either,  with  rather  less  on  the  top  of  the  mould 
than  the  sides.  Dust  it  with  loaf  sugar  sifted  through  a  lawn  sieve. 
Knock  out  all  that  does  not  adhere,  and  again  dust  it  with  fine  flour  ; 
turn  it  out,  and  knock  the  mould  on  the  board  as  before.  Tie  or  pin 
a  piece  of  buttered  paper  round  the  mould,  so  as  to  come  two  or  three 
inches  above  the  bottom.  Fix  the  mould  in  a  stand  and  nearly  fill  it. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  done,  the  top  should  be  firm  and 
dry.  Try  it  by  pushing  in  a  small  piece  of  stick  or  whisk,  and  if  it 
comes  out  dry,  it  is  done.  The  surface  of  the  cake  should  be  quite 
smooth.  There  is  as  much  art  in  buttering  the  mould  properly  as  in 
preparing  the  mixture,  if  not  more. 

Cold  Mixtures. — Separate  the  yolks  from  the  whites  when  you 
break  the  eggs.  Put  the  yolks  into  a  clean  pan  with  the  sugar,  and 
the  whites  in  another  by  themselves.  Let  the  pans  be  quite  free 
from  grease.  If  they  are  rubbed  round  with  a  little  flour,  it  will 
take  off  any  which  may  be  left  about  them.  Wipe  them  out  with  a 
clean  cloth.  Beat  up  the  yolks  and  sugar  by  themselves,  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  and  afterwards  whip  up  the  whites  to  a  very  strong 
froth.  If  they  should  happen  to  be  rather  weak,  a  bit  of  powdered 
alum  may  be  added.  When  the  whites  are  whisked  up  firm,  stir  in 
the  yolks  and  sugar.  Sift  the  flour  and  mix  it  in  lightly  with  the 
spatula,  adding  a  little  essence  of  lemon  to  flavour  it.  Fill  the 
moulds  and  bake  as  before.  When  cakes  are  made  in  this  way,  the 


Jjjg  THE    PASTRY-COOK.  109 

should  be  quite  fresh  and  pood,  otherwise  the  whites  cannot  be 
whipped  up.  When  weak,  pickled  eggs  are  used.  I  find  a  good 
method  is  to  beat  the  eggs  first  by  themselves,  over  a  fire,  until  they 
are  warm  ;  then  add  the  sugar,  and  whip  it  over  the  fire  until  it  is 
again  warm,  or  make  as  for  hot  mixtures,  and  heat  it  twice. 

Almond  Savoy  Cakes  and  Almond  Hearts. — One  pound  of  blanched 
sweet  alrnonds  (four  ounces  of  them  may  be  bitter),  two  pounds  of 
sugar,  one  pint  of  the  yolks  of  eggs,  half  a  pint  of  whole  eggs,  one 
pound  of  flour,  and  the  whites  of  twelve  eggs  beat  to  a  firm  froth. 

Pound  the  almonds  with  the  sugar  in  a  mortar,  and  sift  them  through 
a  wire  sieve,  or  grind  them  in  a  mill,  and  mix  them  with  the  sugar 
in  the  mortar.  First  mix  the  whole  eggs  well  with  the  almonds  and 
su£ar,  then  add  the  yolks  by  degrees,  stirring  the  whole  until  quite 
light ;  then  mix  in  the  whites,  and  afterwards  the  flour,  lightly ;  pre- 
pare some  moulds  as  for  Savoy  cakes ;  but  some  only  butter  them. 
Fill  the  moulds  three  parts  full  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven. 
For  almond  hearts,  butter  some  tins  in  the  shape  of  a  heart,  but  with- 
out bottoms;  cover  a  baking-plate  with  paper;  place  the  tins  on  it, 
and  fill  them  nearly  three  parts  full  with  the  mixture:  dust  a  little 
sugar  on  the  top,  and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Venice  Cake. — Take  a  Savoy  cake  and  cut  it  in  slices,  half  or 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  in  a  parallel  direction  from  the  bot- 
tom to  the  top;  spread  over  each  slice  with  raspberry  or  apricot  jam, 
or  some  of  each  alternately,  or  any  other  sort  of  preserve.  Replace 
each  piece  in  its  original  form ;  when  completed,  make  an  icing  as 
directed  for  cakes,  with  four  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  pound  of  sugar, 
which  will  make  it  rather  thin.  It  may  be  coloured  with  cochineal, 
&,c. ;  spread  it  over  the  cake,  which,  being  thin,  will  run  into  the 
flutes  and  mouldings  of  the  cake,  when  it  will  appear  of  the  same 
form  as  before.  Let  it  dry  in  the  mouth  of  the  oven,  but  be  careful 
it  does  not  get  discoloured.  When  it  is  dry,  ornament  it  with  piping. 
Savoy  cakes  are  often  done  in  the  same  manner,  without  being  cut  in 
slices,  to  ornament  them  ;  or  they  may  be  done  without  icing,  and 
either  piped  or  ornamented  with  gum  paste  borders,  &,c.,  which  are 
fixed  on  with  dissolved  gum  Arabic.  Volutes  or  high  and  projecting 
figures  are  supported  with  small  wire. 

Savoy  Cake  to  represent  a  Melon. — Bake  a  cake  in  a  melon-mould  ; 
when  cold,  cover  it  with  icing  as  for  a  Venice  cake.  Whilst  it  is 
wet,  stick  on  some  pieces  of  loaf  sugar,  to  imitate  the  surface  of  the 
melon.  Strew  over  it  some  yellow  and  green  sugar-sands  ;  or  paint 
it  when  dry  to  imitate  nature.  Form  the  stalk,  leaves,  &c.,  out  of 
gum  paste,  and  fix  them  in  the  centre,  on  the  top. 

Savoy  Cake  to  imitate  a  Hedgehog. — Bake  a  cake  in  a  mould  of  that 
tbrm  ;  blanch  some  Valentia  or  Jordan  almonds;  cut  them  into  smalt 
fillets  and  stick  them  over  the  surface,  to  form  the  quills  or  prickles 
of  the  hog.     Put  in  two  currants  for  the  eyes. 
10 


110  THE    1'ASTKY-COOK. 

Bordeaux  or  Parisian  Cakes. — Make  a  mixture  as  for  pound-cake?, 
leaving  out  the  fruit,  peel,  spices,  &c. ;  bake  it  in  a  round  or  oval 
hoop.  When  haked  and  cold,  cut  it  into  slices,  half  an  inch  thick  ; 
spread  each  slice  over  with  jam  or  marmalade.  The  outside  of  the 
cake  may  be  cut  round,  or  fluted  to  form  a  star ;  and  the  centre  of 
the  cake  is  occasionally  cut  out  to  about  an  inch  and  a  half  from  the 
edge,  leaving  the  bottom  slice  whole  :  this  may  be  filled  with  pre- 
served wet  or  dry  fruits,  creams,  or  a  trifle.  The  top  is  ornamented 
with  piping,  wet  or  dry  fruits,  and  peels,  or  piped  with  jam  and 
icing. 

Italian  Bread. — One  pound  of  butter,  one  pound  of  powdered  loaf 
sugar,  one  pound  two  ounces  of  flour,  twelve  eggs,  half  a  pound  of 
citron,  and  lemon-peel.  Mix  as  for  pound-cake.  If  the  mixture 
begins  to  curdle,  which  it  is  most  likely  to  do  from  the  quantity  of 
eggs,  add  a  little  of  the  flour.  When  the  eggs  are  all  used,  and  it  ia 
light,  stir  in  the  remainder  of  the  flour  lightly.  Bake  it  in  long,  nar- 
row tins,  either  papered  or  buttered :  first  put  in  a  layer  of  the  mix- 
ture, and  cover  it  with  the  peel  cut  in  large  thin  slices;  proceed  in 
this  way  until  it  is  three  parts  full,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Hice  Pound-Cake.  —  One  pound  of  butter,  one  pound  of  powdered 
loaf  sugar,  twelve  ounces  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of  ground  rice,  and 
twelve  eggs.  Mix  as  Italian  bread,  and  bake  it  in  a  papered  hoop. 
If  it  is  required  with  fruit,  put  two  pounds  of  currants,  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  peel,  one  nutmeg,  grated,  and  a  little  pounded  mace. 

Wafers. — Pour  ounces  of  sugar,  four  ounces  of  butter,  eight  ounces 
of  flour,  the  yolk  or  white  of  one  egg,  and  half  a  tea-cupful  of  milk  or 
water.  Melt  the  butter  in  the  water;  mix  the  egg,  sugar  and  flour 
together,  adding,  by  degrees,  the  melted  butter  and  water;  or,  instead 
of  the  butter,  it  may  be  made  into  a  thin  batter  with  cream,  and  a 
little  orange-flower  water,  or  any  other  essence,  to  flavour  it.  The 
mixture  may  be  coloured.  Make  the  wafer-tongs  hot  over  the  hole 
of  a  stove  or  clear  fire.  Rub  the  inside  surfaces  with  butter  or  oil, 
put  in  a  spoonful  of  the  batter,  and  close  the  tongs  immediately ;  put 
them  on  the  firo,  turning  them  occasionally  until  the  wafer  is  done, 
which  a  little  practice  will  soon  enable  you  to  ascertain ;  roll  the 
wafers  on  a  small  round  stick,  stand  them  on  their  ends  in  a  sieve, 
and  put  them  in  the  stove  to  dry ;  serve  them  with  ices. 

CAKES. 

Mmond  Cakes.  —  Take  one  pound  of  sweet  Valentia,  or  Province 
almonds — cover  them  with  boiling  water  in  a  saucepan  ;  let  them  just 
boil  up,  then  strain  them  out  of  the  water,  and  rub  them  out  of  their 
skins;  cut  about  two  ounces  of  them  into  thin  slices;  put  the  rest  into 
a  mortar,  with  one  pound  and  a  half  of  loaf  sugar,  the  whites  of  six 
eggs,  and  one  table- spoonful  of  orange-flower  w'ater;  pound  it  fine; 
lay  your  wafer-paper  on  the  tin,  and  drop  your  almond  cakes  on  it 


THE    PASTRY-COOK.  Ill 

about  the  size  of  a  walnut — then  drop  a  few  of  your  cut  almonds  on 
each  of  them,  and  bake  them  in  a  slow  oven. 

Almond  Savoy. — Take  one  ounce  of  bitter  and  three  ounces  of  sweet 
almonds;  boil  and  skin  them;  put  them  into  a  mortar,  with  the  yolks 
of  six  eggs,  and  half  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  pounded  very  fine ;  then 
\\hitk  up  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  strong  froth,  and  mix  it  as  lightly 
as  you  can  with  the  rest ;  then  stir  in  four  ounces  of  flour  as  lightly 
as  you  can  ;  bake  it  in  a  slow  oven,  if  in  a  hoop  you  must  paper  it, 
and  sugar  your  cake  over  the  top;  but  if  in  a  shape,  you  must  butter 
the  shape;  then  shake  fine  sugar  over  into  it  before  you  put  in  the 
batter: 

Bride.  —  Wash  and  pick  one  pound  and  a  half  of  currants  very 
clean;  dry  them  in  a  cloth — stone  four  ounces  of  Muscatel  raisins — 
add  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  mace,  and  half  as  much  cinnamon;  pound 
it  fine  in  a  mortar;  boil  four  ounces  of  Jordan  almonds  in  a  little 
water;  strain  the  water  off,  skin  them  and  pound  them  fine;  take 
two  ounces  of  citron,  two  ounces  of  candied  orange,  and  two  ounces 
of  candied  lemon  peel;  cut  them  into  thin  slices;  break  eight  good 
new  eggs  into  a  basin ;  take  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  fine  flour,  and 
sift  in  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar  powdered  fine  •  warm  a  pan,  and  beat 
one  pound  of  best  butter  with  your  hand,  till  it  comes  to  a  very  fine 
cream ;  put  in  your  sugar,  and  beat  it  together  till  it  is  fine  and  white 
—  then  put  in  a  fifth  part  of  your  flour ;  give  it  a  stir,  and  put  in 
nearly  half  your  eggs;  continue  to  beat  it;  add  a  little  more  flour, 
and  the  rest  of  your  eggs;  beat  it  again;  stir  in  the  rest  of  your  flour 
and  currants  —  then  add  your  almonds,  raisins,  candied  peel,  spice, 
and  half  a  gill  of  the  best  brandy— mix  all  well  together ;  paper  your 
hoop  with  double  paper  round  the  side  and  bottom ;  put  in  your  cake, 
and  take  in  a  very  slow  oven. 

Bath. — Take  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  good  moist  sugar ;  roll  it 
fine — put  in  a  pan  with  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  water;  let  it  stand 
all  night;  rub  three  ounces  of  butter  into  four  pounds  and  a  half  of 
flour;  make  a  hole  and  pour  in  your  sugar  with  half  a  pint  of  honey 
water — rub  it  out  thin — cut  out,  and  place  them  on  buttered  tins — 
wash  with  water,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Banbury. — Take  one  pound  and  a  half  of  flour,  and  one  pound  of 
butter;  roll  your  butter  and  part  of  the  flour  out  in  sheets;  wet  up 
the  rest  of  your  flour  with  one  or  two  table-spoonsful  of  good  yeast, 
and  about  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water;  roll  out  your  paste  in  a  large 
sheet;  double  it  up  and  roll  it  out  again;  do  the  same  five  times;  cut 
it  up  in  square  pieces,  not  more  than  one  ounce  and  a  half — have  a 
few  currants  mixed  with  a  little  candied  peel  chopped  fine,  a  little 
moist  sugar,  and  a  little  brandy — put  two  tea-spoonsful  on  each  piece; 
bring  the  two  corners  together  over  the  middle,  and  close  them  up  in 
an  oval  shape  ;  turn  the  closings  downwards  ;  shake  a  little  powdered 
sugar  over  the  lops — put  them  on  a  cold  tin ;  let  them  stand  awhile 
in  the  cold  to  prove  them,  and  bake  them  in  a  steady  oven. 


112  THE    PASTRY-COOK. 

There  is  another  method,  which  is  as  follows : — 

Take  two  pounds  of  currants,  half  an  ounce  each  of  ground  allspice 
and  powdered  cinnamon;  four  ounces  each  of  candied  orange  and 
lemon  peel ;  eight  ounces  of  butter,  one  pound  of  moist  Fugar,  and 
twelve  ounces  of  flour ;  mix  the  whole  well  together;  roll  out  a  piece 
of  puff  paste;  cut  it  into  oval  shapes;  put  a  small  quantity  of  your 
composition  into  each,  and  double  them  up  in  the  shape  of  a'puff;  put 
the  whole  on  a  board,  flatten  them  down  with  a  rolling-pin,  and  sift 
powdered  sugar  over  them — do  not  put  them  too  close  together ;  bake 
them  on  iron  plates  in  a  hot  oven. 

Breakfast.  —  Put  a  tea-spoonful  of  good  yeast  into  two  pounds  of 
flour ;  mix  the  yeast  and  a  little  of  your  flour  with  a  half  pint  of  warm 
milk,  about  the  consistence  of  batter.  When  your  paste  has  risen 
well,  take  a  little  milk, — melt  three  ounces  of  butter  in  it;  put  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  into  the  flour  and  yeast, 
and  with  the  milk  and  butter  mix  it  well  into  dough.  Be  careful  that 
neither  your  butter  nor  milk  is  so  hot  as  to  scald  the  flour  or  yeast, 
and  also  that  your  dough  is  not  too  soft.  Make  your  paste  into  cakes 
about  two  inches  thick  ;  pnt  them  into  buttered  hoops :  lay  the  hoops 
on  iron  plates,  and  when  they  are  lightly  risen,  bake  them  in  a  warm 
oven.  When  done,  cut  them  into  slices  half  an  inch  thick,  and  butter 
each  slice  as  you  would  a  roll ;  then  cut  them  into  pieces,  and  serve 
up  for  breakfast  or  tea. 

Cinnamon,  Currant,  and  Caraway. — Rub  one  pound  of  butter  into 
three  pounds  and  a  half  of  flour;  make  a  hole,  and  put  in  one  pound 
of  powdered  loaf  sugar;  then  wet  it  up  with  half  a  pint  of  honey 
water,  and  half  a  pint  of  milk.  Divide  your  dough  into  three  parts; 
add  to  one  part  a  little  powdered  cinnamon ;  to  another  a  few  cur- 
rants: to  the  other  a  few  caraway  seeds.  Roll  them  in  sheets  to  the 
thickness  of  the  currants;  cut  them  about  the  size  of  a  penny-piece; 
wash  with  a  little  milk,  and  bake  in  a  good  steady  heat. 

Common  Cheese. — Take  four  ounces  of  butter ;  heat  it  with  a  wooden 
spoon  in  a  warm  pan,  till  it  comes  to  a  fine  cream.  Then  add  four 
ounces  of  powdered  sugar;  beat  it  well ;  add  the  yolk  of  one  egg  ; 
beat  again — then  add  one  whole  egg;  beat  ail  well  together,  and  mix 
in  four  ounces  of  clean  currants.  Lay  your  puff  paste  in  the  patties ; 
fill  them  half  full ;  shake  a  little  sugar  over,  and  bake  them  in  a  good 
heat. 

Curd  Cheese. — Warm  one  pint  of  new  milk  ;  stir  in  a  bit  of  rennet; 
keep  it  warm  till  a  nice  curd  appears ;  break  it  to  pieces,  and  strain 
the  whey  through  a  hair-sieve.  Then,  having  your  mixture  prepared 
as  for  common  cheese-cakes,  but  without  any  currants,  put  it  into  the 
sieve  with  the  curd,  and  rub  it  all  through  together.  Then  mix  in 
your  currants;  fill  them  out,  and  bake  them  in  a  good  heat. 

Almond  Cheese. — Take  three  or  four  bitter,  and  one  ounce  of  sweet 
almonds ;  boil  and  skin  them  ;  put  them  into  a  mortar,  with  two  ounces 
of  loaf  sugar,  and  the  yolks  of  two  eggs;  pound  them  fine.  Then  rub 


THE  PASTRY-COOK.  113 

two  ounces  of  butter  to  a  cream,  and  mix  all  together.  Put  puff  paste 
in  the  patties;  fill  them  three-parts  full  with  the  batter;  lay  a  few  cut 
almonds  over  the  top;  sugar  over,  and  bake  them  in  a  steady  oven. 

Lemon  Cheese. — Prepare  your  mixture  as  for  common  cheese-cakes, 
and  grate  the  rind  of  a  nice  fresh  lemon,  and  mix  with  it.  The  cur- 
rants may  be  left  out  or  not. 

Derby. — Rub  one  pound  of  butter  in  two  pounds  and  a  half  of  flour; 
make  a  hole,  and  put  in  one  pound  of  powdered  loaf  sugar;  beat  two 
eggs  with  three  table-spoonsful  of  honey  water,  and  as  much  milk  as 
will  make  up  half  a  pint.  Add  half  a  pound  of  currants;  mix  all  up 
together ;  make  them  what  size  you  please,  and  bake  them  in  a  steady 
oven. 

Diet  Bread. — Whisk  the  yolks  of  twelve  and  the  whites  of  six  eggs 
together,  so  as  just  to  break  them.  Put  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water 
into  a  saucepan,  or  small  stew-pan  ;  add  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  and  put 
it  on  the  fire.  Take  it  off  just  before  it  boils;  put  in  the  eggs,  and 
stir  it  well  together  till  cold  ;  then  stir  in  lightly  one  pound  of  flour, 
and  put  your  mixture  into  square  tins  prepared.  Sift  sugar  over  the 
tops,  and  bake  in  a  warm  oven,  till  they  are  dry  and  firm  on  the  tops. 
A  few  currants  or  caraway  seeds  may  be  occasionally  used  to  vary 
them. 

Ginger. — Prepare  your  dough  as  for  Bath  cakes,  but  add  as  much 
ground  ginger  as  will  give  them  a  pleasant  taste ;  cut  them  about 
the  thickness  of  a  shilling,  and  full  as  large  as  a  penny-piece ;  wash 
them  with  water,  and  bake  quick. 

Lord  Mayors. — Put  one  pound  of  sifted  loaf  sugar  and  eight  eggs 
into  an  earthen  pan ;  whisk  them  well  for  about  five  minutes,  until 
quite  thick.  Then  add  a  few  caraway  seeds,  and  a  pound  of  flour  ; 
mix  it  all  up  lightly  with  a  spoon,  and  drop  them  on  paper,  about  the 
size  of  a  small  tea-cup;  place  them  on  iron  plates;  sift  sugar  or  car- 
away seeds  on  the  top,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  When  done,  take 
them  off  the  papers,  and  stick  two  together. 

Lunch,  or  School. —  Rub  half  a  pound  of  moist  sugar  into  two 
pounds  of  flour ;  make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  it,  and  put  in  a  table- 
spoonful  of  good  thick  yeast  (not  bitter)  ;  warm  half  a  pint  of  milk 
rather  more  than  blood-warm,  but  not  hot  enough  to  scald  the  yeast ; 
mix  it  with  the  yeast  and  a  little  of  the  flour,  about  one-third  part. 
When  it  has  risen,  which  will  be  in  about  three  quarters  of  nn  hour, 
if  the  yeast  is  good,  melt  half  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  little  more 
milk  ;— be  careful  it  is  not  hot  enough  to  scald  the  yeast.  Add  01? 
pound  and  a-half  of  currants,  a  little  candied  peel,  and  grated  rind 
of  lemon,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  powdered  allspice, — mix  all  together; 
butter  your  hoop,  or  tin,  put  it  in,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise. 
When  it  has  risen,  bake  it  in  a  warm  oven.  When  you  think  it  is 
done,  stick  in  a  small  twig  of  your  whisk,  and  if  it  comes  out  dry  it 
is  done;  but  if  it  is  sticky,  it  is  not  sufficiently  baked.  The  cake 
10* 


114  THE    PASTRY-COOK. 

should  be  mixed  up  rather  softer  than  bread  dough.     A  few  yolks  of 
eggs  mixed  up  with  it  will  make  it  eat  much  better. 

Moss. — Rub  a  little  rout  cake  paste  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  it  will 
look  like  moss.  Gently  squeeze  a  little  together,  about  the  size  of 
half-a-crown,  and  bake  them  on  wafer  paper  of  a  light  colour.  After 
they  are  done,  touch  the  tops  with  cochineal.  If  they  are  made  up 
round,  the  finger  pressed  in  the  middle,  and  two  or  three  caraway 
comfits  put  in,  they  will  resemble  birds'  nests,  with  eggs  in  them  ; 
and  to  make  the  resemblance  more  complete,  just  touch  the  tops 
with  a  green  colour. 

Macaroon. — Prepare  your  mixture  as  for  almond  cakes  (but  do  not 
cut  your  almonds),  and  add  two  spoonfuls  of  orange-flower  water ; 
lay  them  out  on  the  wafer-paper,  in  an  oval  shape ;  sift  sugar  over 
them,  and  bake  them  in  rather  a  brisk  oven ;  when  lightly  coloured 
over,  they  are  done. 

Plum. — Set  a  sponge  with  one  pound  of  flour,  half  a  pint  of  warm 
milk,  and  about  three  table-spoonfuls  of  good  yeast.  Then  take  four 
ounces  of  butter,  four  ounces  of  powdered  sugar,  two  eggs,  and  four 
ounces  of  flour.  Proceed  to  beat  it  up  the  same  as  for  pound  cake  ; 
then  put  in  your  sponge,  and  beat  all  well  together ;  after  which,  add 
one  pound  of  currants,  nicely  cleaned.  Paper  your  hoop  to  put  it  in  ; 
bake  it  without  proving,  and  in  a  slow  oven. 

Pound. — Take  one  pound  of  butler,  beat  it  with  your  hand  in  a 
warm  pan  till  it  comes  to  a  fine  cream  ;  put  in  one  pound  of  powder- 
ed loaf  sugar — beat  it  together  to  a  nice  cream.  Previously,  have 
one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  flour,  sifted  ;  put  in  a  little,  and  give  it  a 
stir  ;  put  in  four  eggs,  and  well  beat  it ;  then  take  a  little  more  flour, 
and  four  more  eggs,  as  before,  and  beat  it  well  again  ;  then  stir  in 
the  remainder  of  your  flour.  If  you  bake  them  in  small  cakes,  but- 
ter your  tins;  if  in  large  cakes,  paper  your  tins.  Sugar  over  the  top, 
and  bake  them  in  a  moderate  heat.  Some  persons  use  this  method  : — 
Sift  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  and  add  to  it  one  pound  of  fresh  butter, 
melted  a  little,  and  worked  with  the  hand  to  the  consistency  of 
cream  ;  beat  them  together,  and  while  doing  so,  add  ten  eggs  ;  keep 
beating  the  whole  till  well  incorporated.  Take  four  ounces  of  can- 
died orange  or  lemon  peel,  shred  or  cut  small,  a  few  currants,  and 
one  pound  of  flour;  mix  the  whole  well  together,  and  put  in  a  hoop ; 
sift  some  sugar  on  the  top,  and  then  bake  in  a  warm  oven. 

Prussian. — Rub  four  ounces  of  butter  into  seven  pounds  of  flour  ; 
wet  up  with  one  quart  of  milk,  warm,  one  pint  of  warm  water,  four 
yolks  of  eggs,  and  half  a  pint  of  good  thick  yeast ;  but  if  you  are 
obliged  to  take  more  yeast,  leave  out  some  of  the  water,  or  you  will 
make  them  too  poor :  let  your  dough  lie  about  ten  or  twenty  minutes ; 
mould  them  up  round,  about  half  or  three  quarters  of  a  pound  each  ; 
place  them  on  your  tins,  about  two  inches  from  each  other,  and 
put  them  in  a  warm  place,  and  prove  them  well.  Bake  in  a  good 


THE    PASTRY-COOK.  1 15 

steady  heat,  and  melt  a  little  butter  to  wash  them  wjth  when  they 
are  done. 

Queens.— Melt  one  pound  of  butter  a  little,  in  a  preserving  pan, 
and  then  work  it  with  the  hands  to  the  thickness  of  cream  ;  put  to  it 
one  pound  of  fine  loaf  sugar,  well  sifted,  and  beat  it  up  for  a  minute 
or  two ;  add  eight  eggs,  and  two  spoonfuls  of  water ;  beat  it  up  for 
two  minutes,  and  add  twenty  ounces  of  flour,  and  a  handful  of  cur- 
rants ;  mix  it  well  together ;  put  them  in  small  round  tins,  bake 
them  in  a  hot  oven,  and  in  about  five  minutes  give  the  tins  a  smart 
tap,  and  the  cakes  will  fall  out. 

Queen's  Drops. — Prepare  your  mixture  the  same  as  for  pound- 
cakes, but  add  about  two  ounces  more  of  flour,  one  pound  and  a-half 
of  currants;  drop  them  on  whited-brown  paper,  in  drops  about  the 
size  of  a  large  nutmeg,  about  two  inches  from  each  other ;  put  your 
sheets  on  tins,  and  bake  them  in  a  steady  oven. 

Rout. — Take  one  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  boil  them  and  skin  them  ; 
then  take  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar, — pound  both  in  a  mortar,  and  get 
as  much  as  you  cin  through  a  sieve ;  put  the  rest  into  a  mortar 
again,  with  four  yolks  of  eggs,  and  the  rind  of  a  nice  lemon ;  pound 
it  very  fine,  and  put  in  what"  has  passed  through  your  sieve,  and  mix 
it  all  together ;  cut  them  in  blocks,  or  make  them  in  any  shape  you 
please.  Sprinkle  them  lightly  with  a  little  water ;  sift  sugar  over 
them,  and  put  them  on  tins  that  have  been  rubbed  with  a  bit  of  but- 
ter. See  that  they  have  room,  so  as  not  to  touch  each  other ;  bake 
them  in  a  rather  brisk  oven  till  they  are  lightly  coloured  over.  If 
you  see  them  coloured  too  deep  at  the  bottom,  put  cold  tins  over 
them. 

Raspberry. — To  one  pound  of  raspberry  jam  put  one  pound  of  loaf 
sugar,  powdered,  and  sifted  fine  ;  mix  it  well  together,  and  have  a 
ring  made  of  tin,  with  a  handle  on  the  side  of  it,  about  the  size  of  a 
penny-piece  ;  place  the  ring  on  a  sheet  of  paper  ;  fill  it  with  the  jam, 
and  move  your  ring,  and  the  cake  will  remain  ;  do  the  same  till  the 
whole  is  done.  Make  the  tops  smooth  with  your  knife  as  you  fill 
them  ;  then  put  them  in  a  warm  place  to  dry,  till  they  get  a  little 
set ;  then  take  the  crooked  end  of  the  handle  of  a  spoon,  and  make 
five  or  six  marks  on  the  top  of  each  cake.  Set  them  to  dry  again, 
till  they  are  fit  to  be  removed  ;  then  take  them  off  with  the  point  of 
a  knife  ;  ftave  a  box  prepared  to  put  them  in,  and  lay  slips  of  paper 
between  every  layer  of  cakes. 

Ratafias. — Take  four  ounces  of  bitter,  and  four  ounces  of  sweet 
almonds — boil  and  skim  them ;  put  them  into  a  mortar,  with  one 
pound  of  loaf  sugar,  and  the  whites  of  four  eggs ;  pound  it  together 
very  fine,  and  drop  them  out  upon  white-brown  paper.  See  that  they 
are  all  about  the  size  of  a  nutmeg,  and  full  an  inch  apart ;  shake 
sifted  sugar  over  them,  and  bake  them  in  tins,  in  a  slow  oven :  when 
they  are  all  of  a  colour  they  are  done  ;  when  cold  they  will  come  off* 
the  paper. 


116  THE    PASTRY-COOK. 

Savoy.  —  Take  care  that  the  shape  in  which  it  is  to  be  baked  ia 
clean  and  dry  ;  butter  it,  and  sift  sugar  into  it,  but  turn  out  all  the 
sugar  that  does  not  stick  to  the  butter;  then  have  half  a  pound  of 
sifted  sugar,  and  six  ounces  of  sifted  flour ;  warm  your  pan,  put  in 
your  sugar,  break  in  four  whole  eggs,  and  then  one  yolk ;  whisk  it 
till  it  is  first  warm,  and  then  cold  ;  then  stir  in  your  flour,  and  turn 
your  butter  into  the  shape,  and  bake  it  in  a  slow  oven ;  it  will  take 
about  one  hour.  When  done,  turn  it  out  bottom  uppermost : — it  will 
look  very  handsome  for  the  middle  of  the  table. 

Sponge. — To  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  break 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  eggs  into  a  warm  pan — whisk  it  till  it  is 
cold,  and  stir  in  half  a  pound  of  flour — have  your  tins  ready  buttered 
and  sugared ;  put  about  three  parts  of  a  table-spoonful  into  each  of 
them,  sift  sugar  over  them,  and  bake  them  in  a  brisk  oven. 

Seed. — Proceed  as  directed  for  pound-cakes,  but  instead  of  currants 
and  candied  lemon-peel,  substitute  a  few  caraway  seeds  — omit  the 
sugar  on  the  top. 

Shrewsbury. — Powder  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar,  and 
mix  it  with  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  flour — chop  three-quarters  of 
butter  into  pieces  amongst  it,  with  the  scraper — -then  add  one  white 
and  three  yolks  of  eggs — mix  it  together  to  a  smooth  paste;  roll  it 
into  thin  sheets,  and  cut  out  your  cakes  about  the  size  of  half  a  crown 
— place  them  on  clean  tins  not  to  touch — bake  them  in  a  slow  oven 
till  they  begin  to  change  colour. 

Tea. — Beat  eight  eggs  into  a  pan  with  a  whisk  till  they  come  to  a 
good  head — then  add  one  pound  of  loaf  sugar  powdered— beat  both 
together  till  it  becomes  thick  and  whitish — then  stir  in  one  pound  of 
sifted  flour,  but  do  not  beat  it  again — take  a  spoon  in  your  left  hand 
and  a  knife  in  your  other — lay  a  sheet  of  paper  on  your  tin;  take  up 
a  spoonful  of  batter,  and  with  your  knife  strike  as  much  out  of  the 
spoon  as  will  make  a  cake  the  size  you  like — see  that  they  are  about 
an  inch  apart,  and  make  them  as  round  as  you  can  —  bake  them  in 
a  rather  brisk  oven  till  they  are  nicely  coloured  over;  if  they  do  not 
come  off  the  paper  easily,  when  cold,  damp  the  bottom  as  directed  in 
Savoy  biscuits.  You  may  vary  these  cakes  by  dropping  caraway 
seeds,  sugar,  or  currants,  on  the  top,  before  you  bake  them. 

Twelfth. — Prepare  your  mixture  as  for  pound-cake,  plujn-cake,  or 
bride-cake,  which  you  please — if  you  prepare  it  for  pound-cake,  take 
two  pounds  of  currants,  four  ounces  of  candied  orange  and  lemon  peel, 
to  every  pound  of  sugar — make  them  of  any  size  you  please — when 
done,  ice  them  over,  as  directed  in  page  104,  and  lay  on  your  orna- 
ments while  the  icing  is  wet.  You  may  get  the  ornaments  from  the 
wholesale  confectioners. 

Yorkshire. — Rub  four  ounces  of  butter  into  seven  pounds  of  flour, 
wet  up  with  one  quart  of  warm  milk,  one  pint  of  warm  water,  and 
half  or  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  good  yeast,  let  it  prove  about  twenty 


THE    PASTRY-COOK.  117 

minutes,  make  it  into  cakes  and  put  them  on  warm  tins — see  that  they 
have  room  so  as  not  to  touch — when  well  proved,  make  a  hole  in  the 
middle,  the  size  of  a  large  thimble — bake  them  in  a  hot  oven — when 
done,  wash  them  with  a  little  melted  butter. 

York  Drops. — Bruise  eight  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  in  a  mortar, 
having  bleached  and  dried  them  as  directed — add  the  whites  of  three 
eggs,  and  rub  them  with  the  pestle  till  quite  fine  —  then  add  the 
whites  of  four  more  eggs,  and  one  pound  of  sifted  loaf  sugar — mix  all 
well  together,  and  lay  it  out  on  paper  the  size  of  large  peas ;  bake  in 
a  warm  oven,  or  on  iron  plates,  and  when  done  and  cold,  take  them 
off  the  paper. 

{Anne  Page's.— One  pound  of  butter,  two  pounds  of  flour,  one  pound 
of  the  best  loaf  sugar,  two  ounces  of  caraway  seed,  half  a  pint  of 
good  rose-water.  Rub  the  sugar  into  the  butter,  and  then  mix  care- 
fully in  the  sifted  flour  and  caraway  seed  with  the  rose-water.  Roll 
the  mass  thus  formed  into  sheets  to  about  the  thickness  of  a  dollar, 
and  shape  with  small  tin  cutter ;  lay  them  on  baking-dishes,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven. 

These  are  commonly  called  A.  P.'s. 

York  Cakes. — Rub  into  six  ounces  of  butter  one  pound  of  sifted 
flour  ;  then  mix  together  half  a  pound  of  pulverized  loaf  sugar,  four 
ounces  currants,  well  washed  and  dried,  and  half  an  ounce  of  pow- 
dered cloves ;  rub  in  with  the  butter  and  flour  half  a  pint  of  warm 
milk  ;  roll  out  the  paste  into  thin  sheets,  and  cut  with  a  round  cutter, 
and  bake  at  a  moderate  heat 

Jumbles. — Half  a  pound  of  butter,  half  a  pound  of  the  best  loaf 
sugar,  pulverized,  half  a  pound  of  finely-sifted  flour ;  rub  intimately 
together  with  three  eggs  and  half  a  wineglass  of  rose-water,  add 
half  an  ounce  of  ground  cinnamon  and  one  grated  nutmeg  ;  bake  in 
a  moderate  heat  on  waxed  tins. 

Cinnamon  Biscuit. — Grind  in  a  clean  mortar  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  sweet  almonds,  blanched ;  to  which  add,  gradually,  the  whites  of 
three  eggs,  and  then  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  the  best  pulverized 
loaf  sugar,  and  two  ounces  of  ground  cinnamon  ;  form  into  a  paste, 
which  should  be  laid  out  on  greased  tins,  in  diamond  or  other  shapes ; 
ice  with  cold  water,  to  produce  a  gloss,  and  bake. 

Hazlenut  Kisses. — Beat  one  pound  of  pulverized  white  sugar  with 
the  whites  of  eight  eggs  over  a  slow  fire  until  they  are  light,  then 
add  four  ounces  of  blanched  filberts,  cut  fine ;  lay  them  out  on  paper, 
and  bake  in  a  slow  oven. 

Vanilla  Biscuit. — Beat  with  a  whisk  the  whites  of  ten  eggs  to  a 
very  strong  froth,  add  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  finely-pulverized 
loaf  sugar,  ten  ounces  of  sifted  flour,  three  cloves  of  vanilla  pulve- 
rized with  three  ounces  of  loaf  sugar.  Stir  all  these  ingredients  to- 
gether for  one  minute,  and  put  the  batter  into  paper  bag  or  cornet ; 
lay  out  on  waxed  tins,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  t)ven. 


118  THE    PASTRY-COOK. 

Trifle. — Place  several  alternate  layers  of  Savoy  biscuit  and  bitter 
almond  rnaccaroons  in  a  handsome  glass  bowl,  or  dish,  and  saturate 
them  with  the  best  Madeira  wine;  cover  the  surface  of  the  top  layer 
with  any  kind  of  jelly,  jam,  or  marmalade  (red  currant  jelly  is  gene- 
rally preferred)  ;  then  take  the  whites  of  four  eggs,  half  a  pound  of 
pulverized  loaf  sugar,  the  juice  of  one  sound  lernon,  a  little  rose-wa- 
ter, and  one  pint  of  cream  ;  whisk  all  to  a  froth,  and  put  lightly  into 
the  bowl,  in  the  shape  of  a  cone ;  and  ornament  according  to  fancy, 
with  coloured  sugars. 

Cocoanut  Cakes. — One  pound  of  blanched  sweet  almonds,  the  whites 
of  twelve  eggs,  three  pounds  of  the  best  pulverized  loaf  sugar,  three 
large  cocoanuts,  finely  grated. 

Pound  the  almonds  in  a  clean  mortar,  with  the  whites  of  the  twelve 
eggs,  until  the  mixture  is  perfectly  smooth,  then  add  the  pulverized 
sugar  and  the  grated  cocoanut,  and  work  the  whole  in  the  mortar  into 
a  tolerably  stiff  paste ;  form  the  cakes  about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  and 
lay  out  on  baking-plates  previously  well  waxed. 

Sans  Soucies. — One  pound  of  blanched  sweet  almonds,  the  whites 
of  three  eggs,  two  pounds  of  pulverized  loaf  sugar. 

Pound  the  almonds  with  the  whites  of  the  eggs  until  reduced  to  a 
smooth  paste,  and  then  gradually  mix  in  the  sugar.  Roll  a  portion 
of  the  mass  thus  formed  in  powdered  sugar,  and  cut  them  into  pieces 
about  an  inch  long,  and  form  them  into  the  letter  S,  and  bake  on  wax 
plates. 

Cocoa  Biscuit.  —  Three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  blanched  sweet 
almonds,  half  an  ounce  of  good  Caracas  cocoa,  previously  roasted, 
two  eggs,  three  pounds  of  pulverized  loaf  sugar. 

Incorporate  in  a  clean  mortar  the  almonds,  cocoa,  and  the  eggs, 
until  the  mass  becomes  perfectly  smooth,  then  add  the  sugar,  with  a 
small  portion  of  vanilla,  in  powder.  Form  the  biscuit  with  a  tin  cut- 
ter of  fancy  shape;  lay  on  waxed  plates,  glaze  the  surface  of  the 
cakes  with  cold  water,  and  bake  in  a  tolerably  quick  oven. 

Lady  Cake. — Two  pounds  of  powdered  loaf  sugar,  half  a  pound  of 
fresh  butter,  seven  ounces  of  blanched  sweet  almonds,  and  one 
ounce  of  blanched  bitter  almonds. 

Beat  in  a  clean  mortar  the  almonds  till  reduced  to  a  smooth  paste, 
adding  occasionally  a  little  rose-water,  to  prevent  them  from  oiling  ; 
add  the  sugar  and  butter  ;  then  add  the  whites  of  thirty  fresh  eggs, 
previously  whisked  to  a  very  strong  froth  ;  then  mix  in,  very  lightly, 
two  pounds  of  finely-sifted  flour,  and  bake  in  tin  pans  about  twelve 
•nches  long,  eight  broad,  and  two  inches  deep.  This  cake  requires 
•a  quick  oven  —  thirty  to  thirty-five  minutes  will  be  sufficient  time. 
When  cool,  ice  as  before  directed,  and  .score  with  a  sharp  knife. 

Lady  Fingers. — Put  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  in  a  small  basin  with 
four  ounces  of  pounded  sugar,  on  which  you  have  grated  the  peel  of 
one  good  fresh  lemon  ;  work  this  well  with  a  spatula  for  five  minutes ; 


THE    PASTRY-COOK.  119 

after  which,  beat  up  the  whites  of  the  four  eggs,  and  when  they  are 
very  stiff,  pour  a  fourth  part  of  them  on  the  yolks,  which  you  after- 
wards mix  with  the  remainder  of  the  whites,  with  the  addition  of 
two  ounces  of  sifted  flour,  stirring  continually,  to  make  the  whole 
very  smooth. 

Then  form  your  biscuits  on  half  sheets  of  white  paper,  folded  in 
buch  a  manner  that  they  are  only  three  inches  in  length,  and  no 
larger  than  your  finger.  As  soon  as  one  sheet  is  full,  cover  your  bis- 
cuits with  fine  sugar,  and  place  on  a  baking-plate,  which  you  put  in 
the  oven  as  soon  as  the  surface  of  the  biscuits  become  glossy  by  the 
melting  of  the  sugar.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  when  they  have 
acquired  a  fine  colour  take  them  out ;  when  sufficiently  cool,  remove 
from  the  paper  by  moistening  the  opposite  side,  or  with  the  blade  of 
a  very  thin  knife.  Place  them  afterwards  two  and  two,  with  their 
backs  to  each  other,  in  order  not  to  injure  the  glossy  sides. 

Biscuit  d  la  Cuilliere  (Spoon  Biscuit). — Mix  the  yolks  of  three  eggs 
with  four  ounces  of  fine  sugar  and  half  a  clove  of  vanilla,  powdered 
and  passed  through  a  silk  sieve ;  after  working  these  ingredients  for 
five  minutes,  add  a  whole  egg,  then  work  them  again  for  five  minutes; 
after  which  add  another  whole  egg,  and  continue  to  work  them  for 
five  minutes  longer;  then  beat  up  the  whites  of  the  first  three  eggs 
to  a  very  stiff  froth,  and  mix  them,  together  with  two  ounces  of  dried 
and  finely-sifted  flour,  to  the  former  ingredients :  when  the  batter  is 
quite  sleek,  lay  out  on  paper,  and  bake  as  Lady-fingers. 

Small  Biscuits  with  Almonds. — Prepare  three  yolks  as  usual ;  work 
them  ten  minutes  with  four  ounces  of  sugar  and  an  ounce  of  pounded 
bitter  almonds;  add  a  whole  egg,  and  work  together  full  five  minutes 
longer ;  then  beat  up  the  whites  very  stiff,  and  mix  them  with  the 
yolks,  together  with  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  wheat  flour  dried  in  the 
oven  and  passed  through  a  fine  sieve:  work  this  batter  till  it  is  quite 
sleek,  and  then  pour  it  in  small  copper  moulds  formed  like  small 
melons,  carefully  buttered  and  covered  twice  with  sugar.  Mask  the 
biscuit  with  fine  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Biscuits  with  Cream.  — After  mixing  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  with 
four  ounces  of  fine  sugar,  (on  which  half  the  peel  of  a  small  lemon 
has  been  grated),  work  the  mixture  for  ten  minutes ;  then  beat  up 
the  three  whites  as  usual ;  mix  them  gradually  with  the  yolks,  toge- 
ther with  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  dried  sifted  flour,  and  four  spoonsful 
of  whipped  cream,  well  drained:  the  whole  being  lightly  mixed  toge- 
ther and  very  sleek,  put  it  in  moulds  or  cases,  covering  the  tops  of 
the  biscuits  with  fine  sugar ;  when  the  sugar  is  melted,  put  the  bis- 
cuits in  a  gentle  oven,  and  let  them  bake  twenty  or  twenty-five 
minutes.  When  taken  out  of  the  oven,  be  careful  to  put  them  on 
their  sides  to  prevent  their  sinking. 

Biscuits  glazed  with  Chocolate. — Prepare  the  same  ingredients  as 
the  last,  but  flavour  them  with  half  a  clove  of  vanilla  pounded  and 
passed  through  a  silk  sieve ;  then  put  them  in  a  case  ten  inches  in 


120  THE    PASTRY. -COOK. 

length  by  seven  in  width,  which  you  put  in  a  gentle  oven.  In  forty 
or  fifty  minutes  after,  see  if  your  biscuit  feels  tolerably  firm  ;  if  it  does, 
take  it  out  of  the  oven,  and  as  soon  as  it  is  quite  cold,  turn  the  case 
and  take  out  the  biscuit,  which  you  cut  into  small  squares,  lozenges, 
&c. :  then  mix  the  white  of  an  egg  with  an  ounce  of  finely-powdered 
white  sugar  and  three  ounces  of  chocolate,  which,  after  being  grated, 
you  have  dissolved  for  a  few  minutes  in  the  mouth  of  the  oven:  work 
the  whole  with  a  silver  spoon  for  five  minutes,  adding  a  little  white 
of  egg  to  make  it  rather  thick  and  glossy,  and  then  cover  the  top  of 
the  biscuit  thickly  with  it,  smoothing  it  with  a  spatula  ;  after  which 
put  the  biscuit  for  five  or  six  minutes  in  the  oven,  and  then  let  cool. 

Biscuits  glazed  with  Orange. — Rub  the  peel  of  a  fine  orange  on  a 
piece  of  sugar,  then  scrape  off  all  the  coloured  parts,  and,  after  bruis- 
ing them  with  a  rolling-pin,  mix  them  with  three  ounces  of  fine  sugar 
and  tha  white  of  an  egg;  beat  the  whole  for  five  or  six  minutes,  then 
glaze  the  biscuit  (prepared  like  the  last,  except  you  omit  the  vanilla) 
with  it.  Flavour  the  biscuit  with  either  the  half  of  an  orange  peel, 
lemon  or  citron,  or  with  coffee.  If  you  wish  to  glaze  them  a  la  rose, 
colour  the  glazing  with  vegetable  red,  and  add  one  drop  of  essence 
of  roses  to  it.] 


FANCY    BREAD,    GINGER-BREAD,    BUNS,    ROLLS,    MUFFINS, 
CRUMPETS,  &C. 

Almond  Bread. — Having  bleached  and  dried  eight  ounces  of  sweet, 
and  once  ounce  of  bitter  almonds,  bruise  them  in  a  mortar;  add  one 
egg,  and  with  the  pestle  rub  it  all  very  fine.  If  you  find  it  getting 
oily  before  it  becomes  fine,  increase  the  quantity  of  egg.  When  fine, 
grate  into  it  the  rind  of  one  lemon;  and  add  one  pound  two  ounces  of 
sifted  loaf  sugar.  Mix  with  yolks  of  eggs,  until  it  becomes  a  soft 
batter;  now  add  to  the  rest  two  ounces  of  flour,  and  mix  all  well  toge- 
ther;  then  pour  your  batter  into  square  flat  buttered  tins,  with  the 
sides  and  ends  turned  up  about  two  inches  high;  bake  in  a  warm 
oven,  and  when  cold,  ice  it  over  with  the  icing  (see  article  to  ice, 
bride,  and  other  cakes,  p.  104),  and  sprinkle  some  nonpariel  sugar- 
plums on  the  top.  You  may  cut  it  in  any  shape  or  form,  and  mix 
it  with  your  rout  cakes. 

Colchester. — Prepare  your  dough  as  for  Bath  cakes;  cut  it  with  a 
Colchester  cutter  to  about  the  thickness  of  a  penny-piece,  wash  it 
with  milk,  bake  it  quick,  wash  it  with  egg  and  milk,  while  hot;  when 
baked  and  cold,  cut  them  apart. 

Diet. — Put  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar  into  a  saucepan, 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water;  put  it  over  a  steady  fire  and  stir  it 
till  it  is  dissolved;  beat  six  eggs  with  a  whisk  in  a  pan;  when  the 
sugar  boils,  pour  it  gently  on  the  eggs,  keeping  it  well  beat  till  cold ; 
then  stir  into  it  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  fine  sifted  flour ;  have 


THE    PASTRY-COOK.. 

your  frames  papered,  fill  them  three  parts  full  with  the  batter,  sift 
sugar  over  them,  and  bake  them  in  a  steady  oven. 

French  Rolls. — Set  a  sponge  with  a  quart  of  warm  water,  and  half 
or  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  good  yeast ;  let  your  sponge  rise  and 
drop,  then  melt  one  ounce  of  butter  in  a  pint  of  warm  milk,  and  one 
ounce  of  salt,  to  wet  up  with;  it  will  take  about  seven  pounds  of  flour 
altogether;  let  it  lie  about  half  an  hour,  ihen  put  them  on  warm  tins; 
prove  them  well,  and  bake  them  in  a  quick  oven. 

Short  Bread. — Rub  one  pound  of  butter  into  three  pounds  of  flour; 
make  a  hole  and  put  in  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar;  then  wet  up 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  honey  water,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  milk, 
and  two  eggs;  break  them  in  round  pieces  about  as  big  as  a  walnut; 
roll  them  round  or  oval,  to  the  size  of  a  tea-saucer ;  pinch  round  the 
edge;  place  them  at  the  distance  of  one  inch  from  each  other  on  clean 
tins,  not  buttered  ;  cut  half  a  pound  of  candied  orange  or  lemon  peel 
into  pieces,  and  lay  them  on  the  top  of  your  cakes;  bake  them  in  a 
good  steady  oven. 

Queen's  Ginger-Bread. — Take  two  pounds  of  honey,  one  pound  and 
three-quarters  of  the  best  moist  sugar,  three  pounds  of  flour,  half  a 
pound  of  sweet  almonds  blanched  and  cut  thin,  half  a  pound  of  candied 
orange;  peel  the  rinds  of  two  lemons,  grated,  and  an  ounce  of  pow- 
dered cinnamon,  half  an  ounce  of  nutmeg,  cloves,  mace,  and  cardi- 
moms,  mixed  and  powdered,  and  a  wine-glassful  of  water;  put  your 
honey  and  water  into  a  pan  over  the  fire,  and  make  it  quite  hot;  mix 
the  other  ingredients  into  the  flour,  and  pour  in  your  honey,  sugar, 
and  water,  and  mix  all  well  together;  let  it  stand  till  next  day :  make 
it  into  cakes  and  bake  it;  rub  a  little  clarified  sugar  until  it  will  blow 
in  bubbles  through  a  skimmer,  and  with  a  paste-brush  rub  over  your 
ginger-bread  when  baked. 

Spice  Ginger-Bread.  —  Take  three  pounds  of  flour,  one  pound  of 
moist  sugar,  four  ounces  of  candied  lemon  or  orange  peel,  cut  small, 
one  ounce  of  powdered  ginger,  two  ounces  of  powdered  allspice,  half 
an  ounce  of  powdered  cinnamon,  a  handful  of  caraway  seeds,  and 
three  pounds  of  treacle  ;  rub  the  butter  with  your  hand  into  the  flour; 
then  add  the  other  ingredients,  and  mix  it  in  the  dough  with  the  trea- 
cle; make  it  into  cakes  or  nuts,  and  bake  them  in  a  warm  oven. 

Thick  Ginger-Bread. — Prepare  seven  pounds  of  treacle,  rub  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  twelve  pounds  of  flour;  mix  three 
ounces  of  caraway,  two  ounces  of  ground  coriander  seeds,  and  two 
ounces  of  ground  allspice,  with  your  flour  and  treacle;  mould  it  well 
together,  make  it  into  cakes,  point  them,  butter  the  sides,  and  place 
them  close  together  on  buttered  tins ;  put  up-sets  round  them,  wash 
with  milk,  and  bake  in  a  steady  heat;  when  they  arc  done,  wash  with 
egg  and  milk. 

Sweetmeat  Nuts. — Prepare  seven  pounds  of  treacle ;  mix  four  ounces 
of  ground  ginger,  six  ounces  of  ground  allspice,  eight  ounces  of  cari- 
11 


122  THE    PASTRY-COOK. 

died  lemon  and  orange,  cut  small,  with  nine  pounds  of  flour;  wet  it 
up  with  your  treacle,  then  beat  into  your  dough  four  pounds  of  butter, 
and  five  pounds  of  good  moist  sugar;  lay  them  off  on  buttered  tins, 
about  the  size  of  walnuts,  flat  them  down,  wash  them  with  water,  and 
bake  them  in  a  slow  oven. 

Spice  Nuts. — Prepare  seven  pounds  of  treacle;  rub  half  a  pound  of 
butter  into  nine  pounds  of  flour;  mix  four  ounces  of  ground  allspice, 
four  ounces  of  ground  ginger,  two  ounces  each  of  caraway  and  cori- 
ander seeds  powdered  with  your  butter,  flour,  and  treacle;  roll  half  a 
pound  of  moist  sugar,  and  strew  it  over  the  top,  so  that  you  take  a 
little  in  every  piece  you  cut  from  it;  roll  them  out  in  long  rolls  about 
the  size  of  your  finger;  cut  them  in  pieces  the  size  of  a  nutmeg; 
place  them  on  buttered  tins,  but  not  to  touch ;  wash  with  water  or 
small  beer,  and  bake  in  a  good  steady  oven. 

Muffins. — Muffins  are  baked  on  a  hot  iron  plate,  arid  not  in  an  oven. 
To  a  quarter  of  a  peck  of  flour  add  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  yeast, 
four  ounces  of  salt,  and  as  much  water  (or  milk)  slightly  warmed,  as 
is  sufficient  to  form  a  dough  of  rather  a  soft  consistency.  Small  por- 
tions of  the  dough  are  then  put  into  holes,  previously  made  in  a  layer 
of  flour  about  two  inches  thick,  placed  on  a  board,  and  the  whole  is 
covered  up  in  a  blanket,  and  suffered  to  stand  near  a  fire,  to  cause 
the  dough  to  rise ;  when  this  is  effected,  they  will  each  exhibit  a 
semi-globular  shape;  they  are  then  placed  on  a  heated  iron  plate,  and 
baked ;  when  the  bottoms  of  the  muffins  begin  to  acquire  a  brownish 
colour,  they  are  turned,  and  baked  on  the  opposite  side. 

[Wheat  Muffins. — Melt  a  small  piece  of  butter  into  a  quart  of  milk, 
and  set  it  aside  until  cold  —  beat  four  eggs  very  light,  and  make  a 
batter  by  adding  alternately  and  very  gradually  a  little  milk  and  a 
little  flour,  until  the  batter  is  of  the  proper  consistence,  which  is  quite 
thin — then  add  a  large  spoonful  of  yeast,  if  you  do  not  use  the  pow- 
ders as  directed  in  the  note  on  page  123.  Bake  them  in  muffin-rings 
on  a  griddle,  and  butter  them  before  serving,  —  they  must  be  torn 
asunder  to  butter,  as  cutting  them  open  renders  them  heavy. 

Rice  Muffins. — Rice  muffins  are  made  in  the  same  manner  exactly 
as  rice  cakes,  except  that  the  batter  of  the  former  is  thinner — that  is, 
to  a  quart  of  milk  and  three  eggs,  you  put  less  rice  and  less  flour. 

Rice  Cakes. — Boil  half  a  pint  of  rice  until  quite  soft,  setting  it  aside 
until  perfectly  cool ;  beat  three  eggs  very  light  and  put  them  with  a 
pint  of  wheat  flour  to  the  rice,  making  it  into  a  batter  with  a  quart 
of  milk ;  beat  it  well,  and  set  it  to  rise  with  a  spoonful  of  yeast,  or  use 
the  yeast  powders  as  directed  above.  Bake  on  a  griddle,  and  butter 
them  before  sending  them  to  table. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. — To  a  quart  of  buckwheat  meal  put  a  little  Indian 
meal  (say  a  table-spoonful)  and  a  little  salt;  make  them  into  a  batter 
with  cold  water,  taking  care  to  beat  it  very  well,  as  the  excellence 
of  buckwheat  cakes  depends  very  much  on  their  being  well  beaten ; 


THE    PASTRY-COOK.  123 

then  put  in  a  large  spoonful  of  good  yeast,*  and  set  to  rise ;  when 
sufficiently  risen,  bake  them  a  clear  brown  on  a  griddle.  They  are 
usually  buttered  before  being  sent  to  table. 

Flannel  Cakes. —  Melt  a  table-spoonful  of  butter  in  a  quart  of  milk, 
and  after  stirring  it  well,  set  it  away  to  cool ;  then  heat  four  eggs 
very  light,  and  stir  them  into  the  milk  in  turn  with  half  a  pound  of 
sifted  flour;  put  in  a  spoonful  of  yeast,  and  set  it  aside.  These  are 
baked  on  a  griddle  like  buckwheat  cakes,  and  are  always  buttered 
before  being  sent  to  table. 

Indian  Stoppers, — To  a  pint  of  Indian  meal,  add  a  handful  of  wheat 
flour  and  a  little  salt;  beat  three  eggs  very  light  and  stir  them,  in  turn 
with  the  meal,  into  a  quart  of  milk.  These  cakes  require  no  yeast, 
and  should  be  baked  as  soon  as  mixed.  They  are  baked  on  a  griddle, 
and  buttered  before  serving. 

Johnny-Cake. — To  a  quart  of  sifted  Indian  meal  (for  this  cake 
coarse  meal  should  always  be  used)  add  a  pint  of  warm  water,  and  a 
tea-spoonful  of  salt ;  mix  the  meal  gradually  into  the  water,  and 
when  mixed  beat  it  very  haid,  until  quite  light,  then  spread  it  out 
smoothly  and  evenly  upon  a  board.  Let  this  board  be  then  placed 
before  the  fire,  having  something  to  support  it  behind  ;  when  done, 
cut  it  in  squares,  and  send  it  to  table,  without  butter. 

Corn- Meal  Bread, — To  a  pint  of  sifted  corn-meal  (not  too  fine)  add 
a  small  piece  of  butter  and  two  eggs,  well  beaten  ;  make  it  into  a 
batter  with  new  milk,  and  put  in  a  spoonful  of  yeast.  It  will  require 
an  hour  to  rise.  This  bread  is  best  baked,  in  small  tin  pans.] 

Crumpets. — Crumpets  are  made  of  batter  composed  of  flour,  water 
(or  rnilk),  and  a  small  quantity  of  yeast.  To  one  pound  of  the  best 
wheaten  flour  you  may  add  three  table-spoonfuls  of  yeast.  A  portion 
of  the  liquid  paste,  not  too  thin  (after  being  suffered  to  rise),  is 
poured  on  the  heated  iron  plate,  and  baked,  like  pancakes  in  a  pan. 

Rusks. — Rub  six  ounces  of  butter  into  four  pounds  of  flour ;  set  a 
sponge  with  a  pint  and  a-half  of  warm  milk,  and  a  half  pint  of  yeast; 
when  the  sponge  rises,  add  four  ounces  of  good  moist  sugar,  mix  it 
up  together,  let  it  prove  a  little,  then  roll  it  out  about  the  size  of  a 
rolling-pin  ;  flat  it  down  with  your  hand,  and  place  the  cakes  at  a 

*  Many  persons  now  make  use  of  the  yeast  powders,  and  give  them  a 
decided  preference.  They  certainly  possess  the  advantage  of  requiring 
less  time,  and  thereby  enabling  you  to  make  muffins,  buckwheat  cakes, 
&c. — which,  set  with  yeast,  require  some  hours  in  the  preparation — at 
a  quarter  of  an  hour's  notice.  The  ingredients  are  the  super-carbo- 
nate of  soda  and  tartaric  acid,  to  be  used  in  the  following  manner  : — 
A  spoonful  of  soda,  and  a  spoon  two-thirds  full  of  tartaric  acid,  are  to  be 
dissolved  separately  in  a  little  water.  The  soda  is  to  be  put  into  the  bat- 
ter when  it  is  partly  beaten,  taking  care  that  it  is  perfectly  dissolved ;  and 
the  acid  is  to  be  added  when  the  cook  is  ready  to  begin  baking,  as  they 
must  not  be  allowed  to  stand  after  the  effervescence  takes  place. 


124  THE    PASTRY-COOK. 

distance  from  each  other,  so  as  not  to  touch  ;  prove  them  well,  and 
bake  them  in  a  moderately  heated  oven;  when  cold,  cut  them  in 
slices;  place  them  to  touch  on  the  tins,  and  brown  them  off  in  a 
brisk  oven. 

Sweet  Rusk&. — Cut  a  diet  bread  cake  into  thin  long  slices;  lay 
them  on  iron  plates  and  brown  them  quickly,  in  a  very  hot  oven  ; 
turn  them  when  of  a  light-brown  colour ;  and  when  of  a  similar 
colour  on  the  other  side,  they  are  done. 

Tops  and  Bottoms. — Prepare  your  mixture  as  for  rusks,  make  it 
into  small  balls  about  the  size  of  a  large  walnut,  place  them  on  your 
tins  in  straight  rows  just  to  touch ;  prove  them  well ;  bake  them  in 
a  moderate  heat :  when  cold,  draw  a  sharp  knife  between  every  row ; 
to  cut  your  balls  out  square,  turn  them  on  their  side,  and  cut  them 
through  the  middle  one  at  a  time  :  place  them  on  the  tin  as  close  as 
you  can,  with  the  cut  part  upwards ;  put  them  in  a  brisk  oven  ; 
watch  them  till  they  are  nicely  browned  over ;  then  they  are  done. 


OF    PASTES    IN    GENERAL PRELIMINARY    REMARKS. 


[The  first  grand  object  for  our  consideration  is  the  proper  method 
of  making  paste ;  for  upon  our  skill  in  that  important  branch  of 
the  pastry-cook's  art,  will  the  success  of  our  future  operations  mainly 
depend.  Whenever  the  paste  happens  to  be  ill  made,  its  bad  ef- 
fects will  invariably  appear  in  the  baking;  and  if  even  by  chance 
the  colour  should  turn  out  tolerably  well,  it  will  be  still  highly  unsatis- 
factory to  competent  judges ;  in  short,  paste  thus  made  will  always  be 
heavy,  have  an  unpleasant  flavour,  and,  above  all,  be  very  indi- 
gestible ;  and,  indeed,  it  is  owing  to  the  general  ignorance  that  pre- 
vails respecting  its  proper  amalgamation,  that  good  pastry  is  so  rarely 
made  ;  and  that  the  number  of  good  family  pastry-cooks  is  so  small. 

It  is  much  more  easy  to  bake  pastry  than  to  make  it.  The  oven 
requires  care,  constant  attention,  and  practice,  it  is  true  ;  but  the  art 
of  making  pastry  is  quite  another  thing — an  art  that  admits  of  no 
mediocrity — a  good  memory,  taste  practice,  and  dexterity,  being  ab- 
solutely necessary  in  that  branch  of  the  business;  for  it  is  really 
from  the  manner  of  mixing  the  various  ingredients  of  which  it  is 
composed  that  it  acquires  its  good  or  bad  quality. 

An  indispensable  requisite  is  cleanliness  in  those  who  have  to  pre- 
pare elegant  viands,  and  the  most  scrupulous  attention  must  be  paid 
to  delicate  management  and  order.  In  a  pastry-cook  these  requi- 
sitions are  absolutely  indispensable. 


TO    MAKE    PUFF    PASTE. 

I  shall  now  endeavour  to  give  directions  for  the  composition  of  this 
delicate  and  elegant  kind  of  paste. 


THE    PASTRY-COOK.  125 

Ingredients. — Twelve  ounces  of  fine-sifted  flour,  twelve  ounces  of 
butter,  two  drachms  of  fine  salt,  and  the  yolks  of  two  egg's. 

Manner  of  Working. — Having  placed  the  twelve  ounces  of  flour 
on  the  board,  make  a  small  hole  in  the  middle  ;  in  which,  put  the 
two  drachms  of  salt,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  nearly  a  glass  of 
water ;  and  with  the  ends  of  the  fingers  of  your  right-hand  gradually 
mix  in  the  surrounding  flour,  adding  a  little  water  where  necessary, 
till  the  paste  is  of  a  proper  consistence,  rather  firm  than  otherwise ; 
then  prove  it  by  leaning  your  hand  on  the  board,  and  working  it  for 
some  minutes,  when  the  paste  will  become  soft  to  the  touch,  and 
glossy  in  appearance. 

It  is  of  importance  to  observe,  that  this  paste  should  be  neither  too 
stiff  nor  too  soft,  but  of  a  proper  medium ;  yet  it  will  be  better  when 
it  is  a  little  too  soft  than  when  too  stiff. 

The  same  process  must  be  attended  to  in  summer  as  in  winter; 
though  many  persons  pretend  that  this  kind  of  paste  should  be  made 
stiffer  in  summer  than  in  winter,  on  account  of  the  difference  in  the 
two  seasons.  As  far  as  regards  the  hardness  of  the  butter,  this  mode 
of  reasoning  has  certainly  some  truth  in  it;  for,  inasmuch  as  the 
winter  is  favourable  to  the  work,  so  does  the  heat  of  summer  render 
our  operations  troublesome  and  difficult,  and  prevent  them  sometimes 
from  having  the  desired  effect,  particularly  in  the  making  of  puff 
paste. 

The  reason  why  summer  paste  should  not  be  made  softer  than  that 
made  in  winter,  is  this: — if,  when  the  paste  is  soft,  it  be  buttered, 
and  afterwards  placed  on  ice,  as  is  practised  in  summer,  the  butter, 
which  is  a  greasy  substance,  will  become  quickly  congealed  by  the 
coldness  of  the  ice ;  while  the  paste,  which  is  only  a  moist  body,  will 
scarcely  be  affected  by  it ;  and,  consequently,  the  butter  being  fro- 
zen, and  the  paste  soft,  it  will  follow  that,  in  working  it,  the  butter 
not  being  held  by  the  paste  sufficiently  firm  to  unite  with  it,  will 
break  into  small  pieces  ;  and  after  having  received  the  two  first  turns, 
will  appear  in  small  lumps,  like  large  peas.  On  rolling  it  again,  and 
placing  on  the  ice,  the  cold  acts  with  greater  force  on  the  small  par- 
ticles of  butter,  which  quickly  become  like  so  many  icicles,  and  the 
paste,  in  consequence,  will  be  completely  spoiled  ;  for,  in  baking, 
these  particles  of  butler  melt,  and,  separating  themselves  from  the 
paste,  render  it  incapable  of  uniting  with  them. 

When  the  paste  has  been  made  as  above,  take  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  butter,  in  pieces,  which  for  twenty  minutes  has  been  in  a 
pail  of  spring  water,  thoroughly  imbued  with  a  few  pounds  of  pounded 
ice  previously  well  washed ;  then  squeeze  and  work  well  in  a  napkin 
ia  order  to  separate  the  water  from  it,  and  at  the  same  time  to  render 
ir  soft,  and  above  all,  of  an  equal  consistence;  then  as  quickly  as  pos- 
rible  roll  the  paste  on  a  marble  slab,  into  a  square,  and  placing  the 
butter  in  the  middle,  cover  with  an  equal  thickness  of  paste,  by  rais- 
ing the  paste  over  it.  After  rolling  it  out  two  or  three  feet  in  length, 
11* 


126  THE    PASTRY-COOK. 

fold  it  into  three  parts  by  doubling  one  part  over  the  other;  after 
which  roll  it  out  again,  and  fold  it  once  more  into  three  equal  parts — 
now  roll  it  to  a  greater  length,  envelope  it  with  a  clean  linen  cloth 
which  has  been  dusted  with  some  sifted  flour — lay  this  on  some  finely 
pounded  ice,  taking  care  to  have  several  folds  of  cloth  between  the 
paste  and  the  ice,  to  prevent  the  moisture  striking  through — place  on 
the  top  of  the  paste  a  dish  containing  some  pounded  ice — this  serves 
to  keep  the  surface  of  the  paste  cool,  and  also  to  prevent  it  becoming 
soft  by  the  action  of  the  air.  After  three  or  four  minutes,  remove 
the  dish,  and  turn  the  paste  upside  down,  instantly  covering  it  as 
before.  This  operation  should  be  performed  three  times  in  the  same 
manner,  and  with  the  same  precautions. 

Lastly,  roll  it  out  two  or  three  times  according  to  what  you  intend 
to  make  of  it,  and  use  it  as  expeditiously  as  possible,  lest  the  heat  of 
the  season  should  render  it  too  soft  to  handle,  or  prevent  its  having 
the  desired  effect  in  baking. 

Thus,  in  less  than  half  an  hour,  it  is  possible  to  make  very  fine  pufF 
paste,  having  previously  everything  ready — the  ice  pounded,' the  but- 
ter frozen,  and  the  oven  quite  hot,  otherwise  it  cannot  be  done.  This 
is  important,  as  it  is  sometimes  an  hour  before  the  oven  can  be  made 
hot ;  and  therefore  the  paste  should  not  be  begun  to  be  made  till  the 
oven  is  half  heated.  The  following  is  another  method.] 

Puff  Paste. — Take  one  pound  of  flour,  and  one  pound  of  good  firm 
butter;  cut  your  butter  into  slices;  roll  it  in  thin  sheets  on  some  of 
your  flour;  wet  up  the  rest  with  about  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water; 
see  that  it  is  about  as  stiff  as  your  batter;  roll  it  to  a  thin  sheet;  cover 
it  with  your  sheets  of  butter;  double  it  in  a  three  double;  do  the  same 
five  times;  then  double  it  up;  lay  it  in  the  cold  to  use  when  you  want 
it,  keeping  the  air  from  it:  you  ought  to  make  it  before  the  sun  rises, 
unless  you  have  a  cold  place  to  make  it  in.  The  following  is  another 
method  :  —  Take  one  pound  of  flour,  and  eight  ounces  of  butter;  rub 
the  butter  into  the  flour  with  your  hand,  and  make  it  into  a  paste  with 
water,  to  the  consistence  of  very  thick  batter;  roll  out  your  paste 
thin;  break  eight  ounces  more  butter  into  pieces  of  the  size  of  a  shil- 
ling, and  put  them  in  all  parts  of  your  paste ;  fold  it  up ;  and  after  stand- 
ing a  short  time,  roll  it  out  again ;  when  it  has  been  rolled  out  three 
times,  it  is  fit  for  use. 

Short  Paste. — Rub  one  pound  of  butter  into  one  pound  and  a  quar- 
ter of  flour;  wet  it  up  stiff"  with  cold  water;  work  it  smooth,  and  it  is 
fit  for  use. 

Tart  Paste. — Eight  ounces  of  butter  rubbbed  into  a  pound  of  flour 
with  your  hand,  and  made  into  a  stiff  paste  with  water,  is  an  excel- 
lent paste  for  tarts. 

Jlpricot  Tart. — J,,ay  your  puff  paste  in  patties;  put  your  jam  in  the 
middle,  and  bake  them  in  a  brisk  oven;  or  you  may  bake  your  puff 
paste  first  with. a  bit  of  bread  in  the  middle;  then  take  out  the  bread 
. — fill  the  hoje  with  jam>  ^  vyiH  Ipoff  very  handsome. 


THE    PASTRY-COOK.  127 

Gwered  Tart. — Take  your  short  paste;  cut  it  into  pieces  to  the  size 
of  your  patties;  roll  them  out  thin;  lay  in  the  bottoms;  put  your  fruit 
as  high  as  you  can ;  put  a  pinch  of  sugar  on  the  top;  close  your  tart; 
Bpr+nkle  water  over  it;  put  a  pinch  of  powdered  loaf  sugar  on  the 
top;  and  hake  them  in  a  good  steady  heat. 

Raspberry  Tart.  —  Take  your  short  paste;  cut  it  into  pieces  of 
nearly  the  size  of  your  patties;  about  the  thickness  of  a  penny-piece; 
then  with  your  thumb  drive  it  thin  in  the  middle;  leave  it  thick  at 
the  edge ;  cut  it  round  close  to  the  patty,  and  notch  it  with  the  back 
of  your  knife;  thin  your  raspberry-jam  with  a  little  water,  and  fill 
the  tart  three  parts  full ;  bake  them  in  a  brisk  oven.  Or  you  may 
made  them  with  puff  paste,  in  the  same  manner  as  apricot  tarts,  if 
you  choose. 

Mince  Pies.— Stew  three  pounds  of  lean  beef  till  it  is  tender;  chop 
it  fine  with  one  pound  and  a  half  of  beef  suet,  one  dozen  of  apples, 
and  one  pound  of  stoned  raisins ;  mix  all  together,  with  three  pounds 
of  currants,  washed  and  picked  clean,  half  a  pound  of  citron,  half 
an  ounce,  together,  of  cloves,  cinnamon,  and  mace,  pounded  fine,  a 
little  allspice,  a  pint  of  brandy,  and  three  half  pints  of  cider,  and 
one  pound  and  a  half  of  good  moist  sugar ;  squeeze  it  close  down 
in  a  glazed  pan,  and  it  will  be  fit  for  use  ;  then  roll  your  puff  paste 
in  sheets,  about  the  thickness  of  a  penny-piece ;  cut  out  the  tops  to 
the  size  of  your  pies ;  put  your  cuttings  for  bottoms  ;  fill  them  to 
your  fancy ;  cover  and  close  them ;  and  bake  them  in  a  steady  oven. 

Raised  Pie. — Take  seven  pounds  of  flour;  then  take  one  pound  of 
mutton  suet,  clarified  down  ;  put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  one  pint  and 
a  half  of  water,  and  set  it  over  the  fire  till  it  boils ;  make  a  hole  in 
the  middle  of  your  flour,  and  pour  in  your  liquor  boiling  hot;  then 
mix  in  your  flour  with  a  spoon  till  you  can  bear  to  put  your  hand  in ; 
mix  it  till  it  becomes  a  nice  smooth  piece  of  dough;  cover  it  over 
with  a  cloth;  and  raise  your  pies  with  as  much  of  it  as  will  make  the 
size  you  want ;  when  filled  and  nicely  closed,  wash  with  egg,  and 
lay  on  your  ornament.  Your  oven  must  be  brisk,  if  for  small  pies: 
but  if  for  large  ones,  a  more  steady  heat  will  be  best. 


THE    BAKER 


INTRODUCTION. 


BAKING,  or  the  art  of  making  bread,  is  amongst  the  earliest  modes 
resorted  to  by  the  more  advanced  portions  of  mankind  for  the  prepa- 
ration of  food.  In  the  early  ages,  however,  loaf  or  leavened  bread 
was  unknown,  as  it  is  amongst  uncivilized  nations  to  this  day.  The 
North  American  Indians  contrive,  by  pounding  their  maize,  or  Indian 
corn,  to  make  a  sort  of  cake,  which  they  bake  by  means  of  hot  cin- 
ders. This  serves  them,  and,  indeed,  occasionally  the  Anglo-Ameri- 
cans, as  a  substitute  for  loaf  or  leavened  bread,  and  may  be  called 
unleavened  bread.  But  in  some  parts  of  the  world  bread  is  not 
known ;  in  others  it  may  be  known,  but  is  not  used — as  amongst  the 
people  inhabiting  the  vast  Pampas  on  the  Rio  de  la  Plata,  where 
scarcely  anything  is  eaten  but  beef. 

Bread  may  be  thus  defined  ; — A  nutritive  substance  made  of  corn, 
generally  wheat,  or  other  farinaceous  or  mealy  vegetables,  ground  or 
reduced  into  flour  or  meal,  that  is,  a  powder  more  or  less  fine,  and 
kneaded  or  mixed  with  water,  and  baked  in  an  oven,  upon  hot  ashes 
or  other  grise.  This  process  makes  unleavened  bread,  or,  in  other 
words,  untermented  bread,  or  what  is  now  called  biscuits.  To  lea- 
vened or  fermented  bread,  that  is,  the  bread  generally  used  in  our 
houses,  there  must  be  an  addition,  yeast,  or  some  other  substance 
which  has  the  property  of  promoting  fermentation. 

The  origin  or  etymology  of  the  word  bread  is  not  without  interest. 
Home  Tooke  says,  bread  is  brayed,  grain,  from  the  verb  to  bray  or 
pound  in  a  mortar,  the  ancient  way  in  which  flour  was  made.  The 
meaning  of  bread,  therefore,  is  something  brayed — brayed  wheat,  or 
wheat  bread  —  pease  brayed,  or  bread — oats  brayed,  or  bread,  &c. 
The  word  bread  was  spelt  differently  in  different  ages;  thus  we  have 
brede,  breed,  &c.  Dough,  Home  Tooke  says,  comes  from  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  word  deaw-ian,  to  wet,  to  moisten.  Dough,  or  dow,  means 
wetted.  The  bread,  that  is,  brayed  corn  or  grain,  by  being  wetted 
becomes  dough. 

Loaf  comes  from  the  Anglo-Saxon  word  hlif-ian^  to  raise,  to  lift  up. 

(128) 


THE    BAKER.  129 

Thus,  after  the  bread  or  brayed  corn  has  been  wetted,  by  which  it 
becomes  dough,  then  follows  the  leaven,  by  which  it  becomes  loaf, 
that  is,  raised.  Leaven  is  derived  from  the  French  word  lever,  to 
raise. 

Bread,  in  some  countries,  is  not  made  entirely  of  meal,  much  less 
of  wheaten  flour.  In  many  parts  of  Sweden,  the  bread  is  composed 
partly  of  the  bark  of  trees,  particularly  during  winter. 

In  Westphalia,  a  kind  of  very  coarse  black  bread  is  made,  of  which 
the  peasants  bake  one  large  loaf  for  the  whole  week.  This  is  divided 
for  use  with  a  saw.  It  is  called  pumpernickel,  and  is  sometimes 
exported.  In  many  parts  of  Germany,  bread  is  made  of  grain  nearly 
entire,  or  but  just  bruised,  which  is  very  coarse,  and  frequently  forms 
part  of  the  food  of  horses. 

The  Romans,  before  they  had  acquired  the  art  of  baking,  were 
called,  either  by  way  of  distinction  or  reproach,  the  pulse-eating  peo- 
ple. According  to  some  authorities,  indeed,  the  earlier  nations  knew 
no  other  use  of  their  meal  than  to  make  of  it  a  kind  of  porridge. 
Such  was  the  food  of  the  Roman  soldiers  for  several  centuries,  or  at 
most  their  skill  extended  no  farther  than  to  knead  unleavened  dough 
into  cakes  or  biscuits.  Even  at  present,  as  has  been  before  intimated, 
there  are  many  countries  where  the  luxury  of  bread  is  unknown. 

Loaf-bread  is  seldom  used  in  the  northern  parts  of  Europe  and  Asia, 
except  by  the  higher  classes  of  inhabitants.  You  never  see  loaves  in 
Sweden,  though  in  the  towns  rolls  are  common  enough.  Gottenburg 
is  a  considerable  town,  containing  between  twenty  and  thirty  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  In  the  year  1812  it  was  crowded  with  merchants 
from  all  parts  of  Europe,  being  at  that  time  the  great  connecting  link 
between  Great  Britain  and  the  Continent.  Towards  the  end  of  that 
year  only,  the  captain  of  an  English  packet  ordered  a  Gottenburg 
baker  to  bake  for  him  a  quantity  of  bread,  amounting  altogether  to 
the  value  of  one  pound  sterling.  The  baker  was  astonished,  and  in 
fact  confounded,  at  so  great  an  order,  and  refused  to  comply  till  the 
captain  gave  him  security  that  he  would  carry  off  and  pay  for  the 
loaves,  declaring  that  he  could  never  dispose  of  so  great  a  quantity 
of  bread  in  Gottenburg,  if  it  were  left  on  his  hands.  In  the  country 
parts  of  Sweden,  nothing  in  the  character  of  bread  is  to  be  met  with, 
excepting  rye  cakes,  which  are  represented  as  nearly  as  hard  as  flint, 
and  which  are  only  baked  twice  a  year. 


GENERAL    REMARKS    ON    BAKING. 

Baking,  as  a  business  or  profession,  was  never  confined  to  the  baking 
of  common  bread  alone,  that  is  to  say,  bread  in  every-day  use.  A 
baker  we  take  to  mean  a  person  who  bakes  and  prepares  any  farina- 
ceous substance  intended  for  human  food.  If  this  definition  be  cor- 
rect, then  it  will  follow  that  not  only  loaf-bread  baking,  biscuit-baking, 
fancy-bread  baking,  belong  to  the  business  of  the  baker,  but  also  pas- 


130  THE    BAKER. 

try  making  and  confectionery.  We  know,  indeed,  that  all  these 
branches  are  frequently  to  a"  certain  extent  practised  by  the  same 
individual,  and  therefore,  in  a  work  of  this  kind,  they  ought  all  to  be 
treated  of,  which  we  intend  to  do  under  separate  heads. 

The  ancients  had  a  great  variety  of  spice  bread  and  sweetmeats, 
and  these,  there  is  every  reason  to  believe,  were  produced  by  the 
persons  called  bakers ;  pastry-cooks  and  confectioners  being  unknown 
as  separate  professions.  The  Asiatics  were  exceedingly  fond  of 
sweetmeats,  and  there  can  be  little  or  no  doubt  that  a  similar  taste 
was  introduced  by  them  among  the  Romans,  when  they  were  carried 
to  Rome  to  practise  their  calling  there.  The  Rhodians,  we  are  told, 
had  a  particular  kind  of  bread  sweetened  with  honey,  so  exquisitely 
pleasant,  that  it  was  eaten  with  other  delicacies  after  dinner  by  way 
of  dessert. 

The  French,  who  are  excellent  bakers,  have  a  great  variety  of 
breads,  and  these  for  the  most  part  have  been  long  introduced  into 
Great  Britain.  The  common  bread  of  that  country,  or  bread  for  gen- 
eral use,  may  be  divided  into  three  classes: — wheaten  bread,  made 
of  the  finest  flour,  sometimes  called  firsts;  second,  or  household 
bread,  made  of  flour  somewhat  coarser,  called  seconds;  and  brown 
bread,  made  of  flour  called  thirds,  and  sometimes  of  flour  of  various 
degrees  coarser  than  thirds.  The  coarseness  or  fineness  of  flour 
(supposing  the  wheat  of  the  same  quality)  depends  upon  the  dressing, 
or  the  separating  of  the  flour  from  the  husks  of  the  wheat,  after  it 
has  been  reduced  to  a  powder.  The  finest  flour  is  entirely  separated 
from  the  bran  or  husks — the  other  description  not  entirely  so,  but  the 
broad  bran  is  removed  from  the  coarsest  flour.  The  writers  in  many 
of  our  celebrated  Encyclopedias  say,  that  "  our  household  bread  is 
made  of  the  whole  substance  of  the  grain,  without  the  separation  of 
either  the  finest  flour  or  the  coarsest  bran."  This  is  a  mistake 
altogether. 

In  making  pure  wheaten  loaf  bread,  no  other  ingredients  should 
be  employed  but  flour,  water,  yeast,  or  some  other  innocent  ferment- 
ing matter.  Various  other  ingredients  are  used,  principally  by  those 
engaged  in  making  bread  for  sale.  The  London  bakers  employ  alum, 
for  the  purpose  of  making  the  bread  whiter,  &c.  Homo-baked  bread 
is  never  so  white,  even  when  made  from  the  same  flour,  as  that  pro- 
duced by  the  public  baker  ;  but  of  this  we  shall  speak  when  we  come 
to  describe  the  methods  of  bread-making  used  by  public  bakers; 
present  we  shall  confine  ourselves  to  bread  as  made  in  families  for 
daily  use. 

The  goodness  of  bread,  whether  baked  at  home  or  abroad,  will  de- 
pend, firstly,  upon  the  quality  of  the  flour  employed  ;  secondly,  upon 
the  quality  of  the  yeast;  and,  thirdly,  upon  the  skill  and  care  of  the 
baker.  The  process  of  baking,  though  simple  enough,  requires  some 
experience  on  the  part  of  him  or  her  who  may  undertake  to  perform 
it.  We  need  scarcely  say,  that  experience  is  only  to  be  acquired  in 
one  way,  and  that  way  is  too  obvious  to  need  pointing  out.  To  judge 


THE    BAKER.  131 

of  flour,  experience  is  also  necessary ;  but  any  one  may  form  a  pretty 
accurate  idea  whether  it  is  good  or  bad,  by  attending  to  the  follow- 
ing directions : — If  flour  is  of  a  fine  white  colour,  it  may  be  pro- 
nounced good,  so  far  as  colour  is  concerned  ;  but  if  it  be  brown,  it 
shows  that  either  it  was  made  from  bad  wheat,  or  that  it  has  been 
coarsely  dressed — that  is,  particles  of  bran,  more  or  less  fine,  have 
been  left  in  it.  Brown  flour,  however,  may  be  of  a  good,  sound  qual- 
ity, and  fine  white  flour  not  so.  To  judge  of  flour,  take  a  portion  in 
your  hand  and  press  it  firmly  between  your  thumb  and  fore-finger,  at 
the  same  time  rubbing  it  gently,  for  the  purpose  of  making  a  level 
surface  upon  the  flour.  By  this  means  you  will  be  able  to  ascertain 
the  colour,  by  observing  the  pressed  and  smooth  surface ;  and  the  act 
of  pressing  and  smoothing  it,  will  enable  you  to  ascertain  these  facts. 
If  it  feel  loose  and  lively  in  the  hand,  it  is  of  good  quality  ;  if  on  the 
contrary  it  feels  dead  or  damp,  or  in  other  words  clammy,  it  is  de- 
cidedly bad. 

Flour  ought  to  be  a  few  weeks  old  before  it  is  used ;  but  it  will 
keep  good  much  longer,  if  kept  in  a  dry  place  covered  over.  But  it 
is,  perhaps,  better  to  trust  to  your  miller  or  mealman,  who,  if  you  are 
a  good  and  constant  customer,  will  take  care  to  serve  you  with  good 
flour  for  his  own  sake ;  for  if  he  employs  any  tricks,  he  is  sure  to  be 
discovered  when  the  bread  comes  out  of  the  oven. 

It  has  been  found  by  analysis,  that  wheat  flour  consists  of  three 
principal  substances,  namely,  starch,  gluten,  and  sugar,  and  a  very 
small  portion  of  albumen ;  of  these,  the  starch  is  the  most  nourish- 
ing as  food.  The  gluten  resembles  animal  glue  in  its  tenacious  qua- 
lities; and  its  smell,  when  subjected  to  a  strong  heat,  is  fcetid,  like 
burning  horn  or  feathers.  It  will  not  ferment  in  warm  water  and 
yeast,  but  like  a  piece  of  flesh  will  become  putrid.  Mr.  Edlin  says, 
that  "  this  substance  is  totally  different  from  vegetable  matter,  but 
rather  resembling  animal."  The  gluten  in  wheat-flour  is  the  cause 
of  its  forming  an  adhesive  paste  with  water,  and  of  its  rising  in 
leaven. 

Starch  forms  the  most  considerable  part  of  wheat-flour,  and  there 
is  reason  to  believe,  from  so  many  persons  subsisting  on  potatoes, 
which  contain  much  starch  and  no  gluten,  that  it  is  the  most  nutri- 
tious ;  but  starch  cannot  be  made  into  bread,  because  it  wants  the 
mucilaginous  gluten  to  give  it  tenacity,  and  the  saccharine  matter, 
or  sugar,  to  induce  fermentation. 

From  experiments  made  by  Mr.  Edlin,  it  appears  that  a  pound  of 
wheat  contains  three  ounces  of  bran,  ten  ounces  of  starch,  six  drachms 
of  gluten,  and  two  drachms  of  sugar ;  which,  with  the  loss  of  two 
ounces  in  grinding  and  reducing  the  flour  to  starch,  make  one  pound, 
or  sixteen  ounces.  From  this  it  appears  that  he  did  not  discover  the 
albumen,  which  M.  Seguin  considers  the  fermenting  principle. 

Mr.  Edlin  also  ascertained  by  experiment,  that  starch,  isinglass, 
and  sugar,  mixed  in  proper  quantities,  and  fermented  with  yeast,  will 
make  a  light  and  porous  bread. 


132  THE    BAKER. 

Flour-paste  may  be  considered  as  merely  a  viscid  and  elastic  tis- 
sue, the  interstices  of  which  are  filled  with  starch,  albumen,  and 
sugar.  We  know  that  it  is  from  the  gluten  that  the  dough  derives 
its  property  of  rising  on  the  admixture  of  leaven  ;  the  leaven  acting 
on  the  sweet  principle  of  the  wheat,  gives  rise  in  succession  to  the 
vinous  and  acetous  fermentation,  and  of  consequence  to  alcohol, 
acetic,  and  carbonic  acids.  The  latter  gas  tends  to  fly  off,  but  the 
gluten  resists  its  disengagement,  expands  like  a  membrane — forms  a 
multitude  of  little  cavities,  which  give  lightness  and  sponginess  to 
the  bread. 

To  judge  of  good  yeast,  no  positive  directions  can  be  given.  Yeast 
should  always  be  fresh,  and  if  made  from  table  ale  it  is  better,  because 
less  bitter  than  that  made  from  very  strong  ale.  If  the  yeast  is  sour, 
the  dough  will  not  rise.  Originally  what  is  called  leaven  was  uni- 
formly employed,  and  it  is  now  sometimes  used  as  a  substitute  for 
yeast.  Those  who  use  it,  keep  a  pound  or  more  dough  from  baking 
to  baking.  It  is  kept  in  a  wooden  barrel,  or  bowl,  covered  with  flour. 
Before  it  is  fit  to  use,  it  must  be  both  stale  and  sour.  Bread  made  in 
this  way  is  said  to  be  more  digestible,  bat  it  is  not  so  pleasant  to  the 
taste.  Leaven  is  now  only  used  at  sea. 

A  good  oven  is  necessary  for  the  production  of  good  bread.  If  the 
oven  be  heated,  as  in  country  places,  by  dry  wood,  furze,  or  fern, 
burnt  in  the  oven  itself,  it  ought  to  be  built  round,  not  long,  as  there 
will  be  in  the  former  case  a  greater  equality  of  heat.  The  roof 
should  be  from  twenty  inches  to  two  feet  high  in  the  centre;  the 
mouth  no  larger  than  will  be  sufficient  to  admit  the  bread.  But  many 
people  who  make  their  own  bread  send  it  to  be  baked  at  the  baker's. 
We  have  seen  good  ovens  attached  to  a  stove,  and  heated  by  the 
kitchen  fire.  These  are  not  sufficiently  capacious  to  contain  loaves 
enough  for  the  consumption  of  a  large  family,  but  they  answer  the 
purpose  of  a  small  family  very  well.  To  save  room,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary, in  stove  ovens,  to  bake  in  tins.  Bread  thus  baked  is  much  more 
smooth  and  neat  than  when  baked  in  the  ordinary  way ;  but  the  plea- 
sant crispness  of  the  crust  is  wanting. 

The  ovens  used  in  London  and  some  other  large  towns  are,  for  the 
most  part,  heated  by  a  furnace  placed  on  one  side.  The  heat  in  these 
ovens  is  very  equable,  and  the  baker  is  enabled  to  keep  it  up  at  all 
times  with  very  little  trouble,  and  with  less  expense  than  by  the  old 
method. 


FAMILY    LOAF-BREAD. 

Under  this  head  we  shall  give  directions  for  making  bread  of  wheat 
flour  only.  The  manufacturing  of  barley  flour,  rye  flour,  and  a  mix- 
ture of  different  kinds  of  flours,  with  or  without  the  addition  of  vari- 
ous other  nutritive  substances,  &c.,  into  bread,  will  be  treated  of 
hereafter. 

Family  or  Home-Baked  Bread. — An  expeditious  and  simple  method 


THE    BAKER. 


133 


of  making  bread  for  a  small  family  is  as  follows :— Take  half  a  bushel 
of  flour ;  put  all  this  flour  excepting  about  four  pounds  into  a  tub  or 
pa!),  and  ia  winter  place  it  before  the  fire  to  warm.  Mix  six  ounces 
or  half  a  pound  of  powdered  salt  with  the  flour— but  it  would  be  bet- 
ter to  work  the  salt  in  with  the  dough.  Then  take  a  pint  of  good 
fresh  yeast,  and  well  mix  it  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  blood-warm 
water".  Make  a  deep  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  flour ; — pour  the  water 
and  yeast  gradually  into  the  hole  of  the  flour,  mixing  the  water  and 
flour  with  your  hands  till  both  become  well  incorporated.  Cover  this 
mixture  up,  and  place  it  near  the  fire  till  it  has  well  risen,  that  is  to 
say,  fermented.  Then  work  the  other  flour  into  it  with  your  fists, 
til!  it  becomes  a  nice,  smooth,  tough  dough.  Make  this  dough  into 
loaves,  and  bake  in  an  oven  properly  heated:  if  too  hot,  your  bread 
will  be  burnt  outside,  and  not  done  inside.  It  will  take  from  an  hour 
and  a  half  to  two  hours  in  baking,  but  the  bread  should  always  remain 
in  the  oven  half  an  hour  after  it  has  become  brown;  or,  as  it  is  tech- 
nically called,  it  will  not  be  soaked  through.  This  is  a  method  we 
have  known  to  be  used  with  success  in  many  families,  though  not 
aware  that  it  ever  has  been  published  before. 

For  large  bakings,  the  following  method  is  best. : — 
The  common  way  is  to  put  the  flour  into  a  trough,  tub,  or  pan,  suf- 
ficiently large  to  permit  its  swelling  to  three  times  the  size  it  at  pre- 
sent occupies.  Make  a  deep  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  flour.  For 
half  a  bushel  of  flour  take  a  pint  of  thick  fresh  yeast — that  is,  yeast 
not  frothy — mix  it  with  about  a  pint  of  soft  water  made  blood-warm. 
The  water  must  not  be  hot.  Then  gently  mix  with  the  yeast  and 
water  as  much  flour  as  will  bring  it  to  the  consistence  of  a  thick  or 
stiff  batter — pour  this  mixture  into  the  hole  in  the  flour,  and  cover  it 
by  sprinkling  it  over  with  fluur — lay  over  it  a  flannel  or  sack,  and  in 
co!d  weather  place  it  near,  not  too  near,  the  firo.  This  is  called  lay- 
ing the  sponge.  When  the  sponge — or  this  mixture  of  water,  yeast, 
and  flour — has  risen  enough  to  crack  the  dry  flour  by  which  it  was 
covered,  sprinkle  over  the  top  six  ounces  of  salt — (more  or  less  to 
suit  the  taste)  :  mind,  the  time  when  the  salt  is  applied  is  of  great 
importance.  We  have  seen  directions  in  which  we  are  told  to  mix 
the  salt  with  the  water  and  yeast.  The  effect  of  this  would  be 
to  prevent  fermentation,  or,  in  other  words,  to  prevent  the  sponge 
from  rising.  Aft^r  the  salt  is  sprinkled  over  the  sponge,  work  it 
with  the  rest  of  ihe  flour,  and  add  from  time  to  time  warm  water 
(not  hot)  till  the  whole  is  sufficiently  moistened  ;  that  is,  scarcely  as 
moist  as  pie-crust.  The  degree  of  moistness,  however,  which  the 
mixture  ought  to  possess  can  only  be  taught  by  experience — whpu 
the  water  is  mixed  with  the  composition,  then  work  it  well  by  push- 
ing your  fists  into  it — then  rolling  it  out  with  your  hands — folding  it 
up  again — kneading  it  again  with  your  fists,  till  it  is  completely 
mixed,  and  formed  into  a  stiff,  tough,  smooth  substance,  which  is 
called  dough — great  care  must  be  taken,  that  your  dough  be  not  too 
moist  on  the  one  hand,  and  on  the  other  that  every  particle  of  flour 
12 


134  THE    BAKER. 

be  thoroughly  incorporated.  Form  your  dough  into  a  lump  like  n 
large  dumpling,  again  cover  it  up,  and  keep  it  warm  to  rise  or  fer- 
ment. After  it  has  been  rising  about  twenty  minutes,  or  half  an 
hour,  make  the  dough  into  loaves,  first  having  shaken  a  little  flour 
over  the  board  to  prevent  sticking.  The  loaves  may  be  made  up  in 
tin  moulds,  or  if  it  be  desired  to  make  it  into  loaves  to  be  baked  with- 
out the  use  of  moulds,  divide  the  dough  into  equal  parts,  according 
to  the  size  you  wish  to  have  your  loaves — make  each  part  into  the 
form  of  a  dumpling,  and  lay  one  dumpling,  if  we  may  so  speak,  upon 
another — then,  the  oven  being  properly  heated,  by  means  of  an  in- 
strument called  a  peel,  a  sort  of  wooden  shovel,  put  in  your  loaves, 
and  immediately  shut  the  door  as  close  as  possible.  A  good  deal  of 
nicety  is  required  in  properly  placing  the  loaves  in  the  oven — they 
must  be  put  pretty  closely  together.  The  bread  will  take  from  an 
hour  and  a-half  to  two  hours  to  bake  properly. 

Brown  or  Diet  Bread  is  made  of  flour  from  which  the  coarsest  flake 
bran  only  is  removed.  This  bread  is  made  as  in  the  preceding  direc- 
tions. By  boiling  a  pound  and  a-quarter  of  bran  in  a  gallon  of  the 
water  in  which  the  bread  is  made,  and  then  straining  it,  there  will 
be  an  increase  of  one-sixth  more  than  if  mixed  with  plain  water. 

Bread  not  liable  to  become  bitter. — This  process  is  an  invention  of  a 
Mr.  Stone.  He  took  a  tea-spoonful  of  yeast  and  mixed  it  with  three 
quarters  of  a  pint  of  warm  water.  He  then  took  a  bushel  or  fifty- 
six  pounds  of  flour,  and  having  put  it  into  the  kneading  trough,  and 
made  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  it  large  enough  to  contain  two  gallons 
of  water,  he  poured  in  his  small  quantity,  and  took  a  stick  and  stir- 
red it  until  it  was  as  thick  as  a  batter  pudding — having  covered  this 
sponge  with  a  sprinkling  of  flour,  it  was  left  to  ferment  for  an  hour, 
at  the  end  of  which  time  he  took  a  quart  more  of  warm  water  and 
poured  in,  and  repeated  the  operation  of  stirring  it  in  with  more  flour, 
and  again  sprinkling  it  with  flour,  when  it  was  again  left  for  two 
hours,  when  it  will  be  found  to  have  risen  and  broken  through  the 
flour — then  add  three  quarts  or  a  gallon  of  water,  and  stir  in  flour  to 
the  consistence  of  butter,  and  again  cover  it  with  dry  flour — and  in 
about  three  or  tour  more  he  mixed  up  his  dough  ;  which  done,  he 
covered  it  up  warm  and  let  it  stand  to  prove  four  or  five  hours  more, 
when  he  made  up  his  loaves  and  baked  them.  The  bread  was  as 
light  and  as  porous  as  if  one  pint  of  yeast  had  been  made. 

Having,  as  we  trust,  explained  the  process  of  baking  as  it  is  prac- 
tised by  those  who  adhere  to  its  simple  principles,  and  who  employ 
no  other  ingredients  than  those  necessary  to  produce  good  bread,  we 
shall  now  proceed  to  describe  the  methods  pursued  by  the  public 
baker;  and,  at  the  same  time,  give  a  description  of  a  public  bake- 
house, and  the  duties  of  the  persons  employed  therein. 


THE    BAKER. 


ARTIFICIAL    YEASTS. 


Previous  to  entering  upon  the  subject  of  public  baking,  by  which 
80  large  a  portion  of  the  people  are  supplied  with  their  daily  bread,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  lay  before  our  readers  some  of  the  various  me- 
thods by  which  yeast  is  compounded.  Of  brewers'  yeast,  or  the  yeast 
of  ale  and  beer,  we  have  already  spoken,  and  therefore  it  will  be 
necessary  again  to  revert  to  it.  Several  of  the  following  directions 
for  the  preparations  of  yeast  have  been  long  before  the  public,  and 
some  of  them  the  writer  has  not  had  an  opportunity  of  testing  by 
experience,  but  there  is  no  reason  to  doubt  of  their  efficiency ;  of  the 
patent  yeast,  however,  now  pretty  generally  used  by  the  public 
bakers,  he  can  speak  with  confidence,  having  witnessed  the  whole 
process  of  making  it,  and  experienced  its  perfect  applicability  to  the 
manufacturing  of  bread.  We  shall  first,  however,  treat  of  the  mode 
of  preserving  brewers'  yeast. 

Yeast  to  Preserve. — Take  a  quantity  and  work  it  well  with  a  whisk, 
till  it  becomes  thin;  then  procure  a  wooden  dish  or  platter,  clean  and 
dry,  and  with  a  soft  brush  lay  a  thin  layer  of  yeast  on  the  dish,  and 
turn  the  top  downwards  to  keep  out  the  dust,  but  not  the  air,  which 
is  to  dry  it.  When  the  first  coat  is  dry,  lay  on  another,  and  let  that 
dry,  and  so  continue  till  the  quantity  is  sufficient ;  by  this  means,  it 
may  soon  be  made  two  or  three  inches  thick,  when  it  may  be  pre- 
served perfectly  good,  in  dry  tin  canisters,  for  a  long  time.  When 
you  use  it  for  baking,  cut  a  piece  and  lay  it  in  warm  water  till  it  is 
dissolved,  when  it  is  fit  for  use. 

Potatoe  Yeast  is  made  of  mealy  potatoes  boiled  thoroughly  soft  — 
they  are  then  skinned  and  mashed  as  smooth  as  possible,  when  as 
much  hot  water  should  be  put  on  them  as  will  make  a  mash  of  the 
consistency  of  good  beer  yeast.  Add  to  every  pound  of  potatoes  two 
ounces  of  treacle,  and  when  just  warm  stir  in  for  every  pound  of 
potatoes  two  large  spoonsful  of  yeast.  Keep  it  warm  till  it  has  done 
fermenting,  and  in  twenty-four 'hours  it  will  be  fit  for  use.  A  pound 
of  potatoes  will  make  nearly  a  quart  of  yeast,  and  it  is  said  to  be 
equally  as  good  as  brewers'  yeast. 

The  following  are  Dr.  Let  (sow's  directions  for  making  another  Pre- 
pared Yeast. — Thicken  two  quarts  of  water  with  four  ounces  of  flour, 
boil  it  for  half  an  hour,  then  sweeten  it  with  three  of  brown  sugar ; 
when  almost  cold,  pour  it  along  with  four  spoonfuls  of  bakers'  yeast 
into  an  earthen  jug,  deep  enough  for  the  fermentation  to  go  on  with- 
out running  over;  place  it  a  day  near  the  fire ;  then  pour  off  the  thin 
liquor  from  the  top,  shake  the  remainder,  and  close  it  up  for  use,  first 
straining  it  through  a  sieve.  To  preserve  it  sweet,  set  it  in  a  cool 
cellar,  or  hang  it  some  depth  in  a  well.  Always  keep  some  of  this 
yeast  to  make  the  next  quantity  that  is  wanted. 

Artificial  Yeast.—  Take  two  ounces  of  flour,  boil  it  in  a  quart  of 


136  THE   BAKER. 

water,  till  it  comes  to  the  consistence  of  a  thin  jelly,  pour  it  into  a 
machine  for  impregnating  water  with  fixed  air  ;  then  put  into  the 
lower  vessel  some  coarse  powdered  marble,  and  pour  on  it  some  sul- 
phuric acid  diluted  with  water.  The  apparatus  is  now  to  be  adjust- 
ed, and  the  upper  vessel  put  in  its  place,  and  nearly  stopped.  The 
fixed  air  now  passes  through  the  valve,  and  ascends  into  the  middle 
and  upper  part  of  the  machine,  where  the  gas  is  absorbed  by  the 
flour  jelly  in  considerable  quantity  ;  and  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours 
the  matter  will  be  found  so  strongly  impregnated,  as  to  be  in  a  state 
of  fermentation.  This  artificial  yeast  may  now  be  put  into  a  bottle 
for  use.  The  great  advantage  of  this  yeast  is,  that  it  may  be  made 
in  situations  where  it  is  impossible  to  procure  brewers'  yeast.  The 
foregoing  operation  need  not  be  performed  but  once  by  the  same  in- 
dividual, as  the  process  may  be  carried  on  by  mixing  this  artificial 
yeast,  which  was  invented  by  the  late  Mr.  Henry,  with  the  preced- 
ing preparation  recommended  by  Dr.  Lettsom,  which  it  will  cause  to 
ferment  the  same  as  brewers'  yeast. 

Another  artificial  yeast  is  made  as  follows : — Take  half  a  pound 
of  fine  flour,  the  same  qi  antity  of  coarse  brown  sugar,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  peck  of  bruised  malt ;  boil  these  over  the  fire  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  in  half  a  gallon  of  water,  then  strain  the  liquor  through  a 
sieve  into  an  upright  jug,  and  when  cooled  to  80  degrees  of  heat,  add 
one  pint  of  the  artificial  Seltzer  water,  or,  if  procurable,  Seltzer  wa- 
ter itself,  or  water  impregnated  with  fixed  air — the  mixture  will 
soon  begin  to  ferment :  it  should  then  be  set  before  the  fire,  and 
when  ebullition  ceases,  the  yeast  will  sink  to  the  bottom.  Pour  off 
the  clear  liquor,  and  the  yeast  will  be  fit  for  use. 

Patent  Yeast,  which  is  extensively  used  by  the  London  bakers,  and 
which  is,  perhaps,  preferable  to  all  other  yeasts,  is  made  as  follows : 
— Take  half  a  pound  of  hops  and  two  pailfuls  of  water,  mix  and  boil 
in  the  oven  till  the  liquid  is  reduced  to  one  pailful  ;  strain  the  decoc- 
tion into  the  seasoning  tub,  and  when  it  is  sufficiently  cool  put  in  half 
a  peck  of  malt.  In  the  mean  time,  put  the  hops,  strained  off,  again 
into  two  pailfuls  of  water,  and  boil  as  before  till  they  are  reduced  to 
one ;  strain  the  liquid  while  hot  into  the  seasoning  tub.  The  heat 
will  not  injuriously  affect  malt,  previously  mixed  with  tepid  water. 
Boil  the  hops  again  as  before,  and  strain  off  as  before  into  the  season- 
ing tub.  When  the  liquor  has  cooled  down  to  about  blood-heat,  strain 
off  the  malt,  and  add  to  the  liquor  two  quarts  of  patent  yeast  set 
apart  from  the  previous  making.  It  ought  to  be  observed,  that  brew- 
ers' yeast  will  not  answer  the  purpose.*  To  the  malt  and  hops  some 
add  a  little  flour,  but  the  patent  yeast  is  quite  as  good  without  the 
flour,  which  in  summer  is  apt  to  make  the  yeast  go  sour.  By  the 

*  If  this  be  the  case,  it  may  be  fairly  asked,  by  what  means  the  first 
patent  yeast  was  generated  ?  The  answer  is,  by  a  chemical  process  si- 
milar to  that  invented  by  Mr.  Henry,  and  which  we  rtavo  given  under 
the  head  of  ARTIFICIAI.YEAST. 


THE    BAKER.  137 

above  process  five  gallons  of  very  good  yeast  may  be  made,  which 
will  be  ready  for  use  the  day  after  it  is  made.  It  occupies  in  manu- 
facturing from  about  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning  till  two  or  three  in 
the  afternoon  ;  but  it  gives  very  little  trouble  to  the  baker. 

ALUM,    POTATOES,    &C. 

These  ingredients  are  now  considered  indispensable  by  the  London 
Dakers  in  the  manufacturing  of  second  or  household  bread,  that  is,  > 
the  bread  in  daily  use  in  the  metropolis.  The  effects  of  alum  upon 
bread  are  not  well  understood :  but  it  is  generally  said  to  bleach  and 
act  as  an  astringent.  Accum  says,  that  "  the  theory  of  the  bleaching 
property  of  alum,  as  manifested  in  the  panification  (making  into  bread) 
of  an  inferior  kind  of  flour,  is  by  no  means  well  understood ;  and 
indeed  it  is  really  surprising,  that  the  effect  should  be  produced  by  so 
small  a  quantity  of  that  substance,  two  or  three  ounces  of  alum  being 
sufficient  for  a  sack  of  flour.  From  experiments  in  which  I  have 
been  employed,  with  the  assistance  of  skilful  bakers,  I  am  authorized 
to  state,  that  without  the  addition  of  alum,  it  does  not  appear  possible 
to  make  white,  light,  and  porous  bread,  such  as  is  used  in  this  me- 
tropolis, unless  the  flour  be  of  the  very  best  quality." 

Mr.  A.  Booth,  the  lecturer  on  Chemistry,  asserts,  that  "alum 
bleaches  from  the  attraction  of  alumina,  one  of  its  constituent  parts, 
to  the  colouring  matter  of  the  flour,  and  also  acts  as  an  astringent  on 
the  bread." 

If  these  opinions  are  to  be  relied  upon,  of  course  the  question  is 
settled,  as  to  the  indispensability  of  alum  in  making  London  bread. 
Accum  asserts,  that  he,  in  conjunction  with  skilful  bakers,  has  tested 
the  thing  by  experiments,  which  prove  that  alum  cannot  be  dispensed 
with.  For  our  part,  we  are  inclined  to  think,  that  the  whiteness  of 
the  London  bread  is  owing,  in  some  degree,  to  the  process  of  baking, 
a  process  widely  differing  from  that  followed  by  women  in  making 
home-baked  bread ;  which,  as  we  have  elsewhere  asserted,  is  never 
so  white  or  so  porous,  though  made  of  the  same  flour,  as  bakers'  bread. 
Accum,  whatever  talent  he  might  possess  as  a  chemist,  was  a  fraudu- 
lent writer,  and  therefore  his  assertions  are  not  to  be  relied  on,  as  to 
the  experiments  which  he  alleges  he  had  made.  We  agree  with 
him,  however,  in  his  observation,  that  "  the  theory  of  the  bleaching 
property  of  alum,  &c.,  is  by  no  means  well  understood." 

The  quantity  of  alum  used  in  baking  is  much  less  than  the  public 
generally  imagine,  even  by  the  most  fraudulent  of  cheap-bread  bakers, 
and  indeed  much  smaller  than  many  of  the  bakers  themselves  ima- 
gine. This  may  appear  a  strange  assertion,  and  it  is  probably  one 
never  made  before  in  print;  but  a  little  explanation  will  make  the 
point  quite  clear.  It  is  well  known  that  the  bakers  are  liable  to  a 
heavy  fine  if  alum  is  found  on  their  premises.  To  avoid  this  liability 
as  much  as  possible,  they  have  long  been  in  the  habit  of  buying  the 
12* 


138  THE    BAKER. 

alum  ready  powdered  at  the  druggists,  under  the  appellation  of  stuff'. 
The  druggists  keep  this  stu/,  which  the  bakers  imagine  is  unadul- 
terated ground  or  powdered  alum,  but  which  is,  in  fact,  a  compound, 
consisting  of  one  part  alum,  and  three  parts  of  muriate  of  soda,  that 
is,  common  table  salt.  This  compound  is  made  by  pounding  the  salt 
with  the  alum  in  a  mortar,  and  is  kept  by  the  druggists  in  pound 
packages,  which  they  sell  at  twopence  each.  For  this  statement  we 
have  the  authority  of  several  druggists,  and  the  evidence  of  our  own 
eyes.  It  may  appear  extraordinary  that  the  bakers  should  suffer 
themselves  to  be  so  cheated;  but  be  this  as  it  may,  we  believe  it  to  be 
the  fact.  It  should  be  recollected,  that  few  bakers  are  readers,  par- 
ticularly of  scientific  or  medical  works.  In  the  fourth  edition  of 
Gray's  supplement  to  the  Pharmacopoeia  and  Treatise  on  Pharma- 
cology, under  the  head  of  stuff,  this  term  is  thus  defined  : — "  Alum,  in 
small  crystals,  one  pound,  common  salt  three  pounds,  to  mix  with 
flour  for  baking."  We  have  the  evidence  of  our  own  senses  for  know- 
ing, that  the  respectable  bakers  of  home  or  household  bread  do  not  put 
more  than  half  a  pound  or  eight  ounces  of  stuff  to  a  sack  of  flour;  and 
this  stuff",  as  we  have  shown  on  the  authority  of  Gray,  only  contains 
one-fourth  part,  or  two  ounces,  of  alum,  the  remainder  being  common 
salt.  Some  persons,  however,  will  ask  for  powdered  alum,  but  the 
druggist,  knowing  from  the  quantity  required  and  the  appearance  of 
his  customer  that  it  is  wanted  for  baking,  uniformly  serves  him  with 
the  before-described  mixture  of  salt  and  alum.  This  we  have  fre- 
quently seen  done.  The  object  of  the  druggist  is  profit.  It  would 
be  scarcely  worth  his  while  to  sell  powdered  alum  for  twopence  a 
pound.  Gray,  in  his  book,  puts  it  down  at  one  shilling  and  sixpence 
a  pound.  This  is  ridiculously  too  high  to  sell  by  the  pound,  but  it  is 
generally  charged  a  penny  an  ounce.  The  writer,  giving  this  infor- 
mation to  his  baker,  he  exclaimed,  "  You  don't  say  so! — the  infamous 
rogues — why  the  rascally  druggists  cheat  us  before  we  can  cheat  our 
customers ! !" 

Such  being  the  case,  it  seems  almost  inconceivable,  that  so  small 
a  quantity  as  two  ounces  of  alum  in  two  hundred  and  eighty  pounds 
of  flour,  the  weight  of  a  sack,  should  have  any  effect  in  bleaching  it; 
especially  when  we  consider  that  one  hundred  parts  of  alum  contain 
but  a  fraction  more  than  ten  parts  of  alumina,  the  only  constituent  in 
alum,  as  we  are  informed,  that  possesses  the  property  of  bleaching. 
Nevertheless,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  alum,  though  perhaps  not 
by  itself,  yet  in  conjunction  with  other  ingredients,  has  the  effect  of 
whitening  the  bread.  A  circumstance  occurred,  which  we  have  from 
indisputable  authority,  of  a  baker  leaving  out  of  his  dough,  by  acci- 
dent, his  usual  quantity  of  stuff,  containing  not  more  than  two  ounces 
of  alum.  The  consequence  was  a  batch  of  brown  bread,  which  he 
was  obliged  to  sell  at  half  price. 

Alum,  it  is  true,  is  used  in  small  quantities — for  the  most  part  in 
quantities  too  small  to  affect  the  health,  perhaps,  materially  ;  but  still, 
as  it  only  whitens  the  bread,  and  makes  it  otherwise  more  pleasing 


THE    BAKER.  139 

to  the  eye,  while  it  deteriorates  its  wholesomeness,  and  injures  its 
flavour,  one  would  suppose  that  the  great  majority  of  people  would 
prefer  home-baked  bread,  as  it  is  called,  or  bread  without  alum. 
This,  however,  they  do  not  do ;  and  there  is  little  probability  that 
they  ever  will.  The  Londoners  in  particular  do  not  like  home-baked 
bread.  There  have  been  many  instances  of  persons  being  induced 
for  the  sake  of  their  health  to  eat  it  for  a  time,  but  they  always  re- 
turn to  the  alumed  bread  ;  and  we  question  whether  there  is  a  single 
baker  in  the  metropolis  who  sells  sufficient  home-baked  bread  to  sup- 
port himself  and  his  family.  _ 

Formerly  every  baker  was  his  own  mealman  or  miller.  This  is 
.he  case  now  in  Glasgow,  and  in  other  parts  of  Scotland.  The  ba- 
kers buy  their  own  wheat,  and  manufacture  it  into  flour  at  their  own 
mills,  which  are  held  by  them  as  joint-stock  proprietors. 

It  seems  to  be  generally  agreed,  that  alum  in  bread  is  detrimental 
to  the  health  of  those  who  consume  it.  The  fact,  however,  is,  that 
the  bakers  eat  the  same  bread  as  their  customers;  and  it  appears 
very  improbable,  that  there  should  be  a  set  of  men  who  knowingly 
poison  themselves.  The  following  is  Dr.  Ure's  opinion  upon  the  ef- 
fects of  alum  eaten  in  bread  : — 

"The  habitual  and  daily  introduction  of  a  portion  of  alum  into  the 
human  stomach,"  says  Dr.  Ure,  in  his  Dictionary  of  Chemistry, 
"  however  small,  must  be  prejudicial  to  the  exercise  of  its  functions, 
and  particularly  to  persons  of  a  bilious  and  costive  habit.  And,  be- 
sides, as  the  best  sweet  flour  never  stands  in  need  of  alum,  the  pre- 
sence of  this  salt  indicates  an  inferior  and  highly  acescent  food,  which 
cannot  fail  to  aggravate  dyspepsia,  and  which  may  generate  a  calcu- 
lus diathesis  in  "the  urinary  organs." 

To  ascertain  whether  oltim  is  present  in  bread,  crumble  a  portion 
when  somewhat  stale  into  cold  distilled  water ;  then  squeeze  the 
mass  through  a  piece  of  cloth,  and  pass  the  liquid  through  a  paper 
filter.  A  limpid  infusion  will  thus  be  obtained.  A  dilute  solution 
of  muriate  of  baryta,  dropped  into  the  filtered  infusion,  will  indicate 
by  a  white  cloud,  more  or  less  heavy,  the  presence  and  quantity 
of  alum. 

It  is  said,  that  to  counteract  the  costive  quality  of  alum,  when 
consumed  in  large  quantities,  the  bakers  frequently  use  jalap  in  the 
composition  of  their  bread.  This  we  do  not  believe.  Dr.  Darwin 
says,  that  when  much  alum  is  used,  it  may  be  distinguished  by  the 
eye  in  the  place  where  two  loaves  have  stuck  together  in  the  oven  : 
they  break  from  each  other  with  a  much  smoother  surface  than  those 
which  do  not  contain  alum.  We  believe  this  to  be  correct ; — indeed 
the  bakers  say,  that  this  is  one  of  their  reasons  for  using  alum. 

When  the  statute  was  enacted  by  king  John  for  regulating  the 
price  of  bread,  and  during  many  of  the  subsequent  statutes  of  assize, 
the  baker  was  his  own  manufacturer,  purchasing  his  own  corn,  and 
having  it  ground  and  separated  into  flour,  pollard,  and  bran.  Accord- 
ing to  Pownall's  work  on  the  assize  of  bread,  which  we  have  no 


140  THE    BAKER. 

doubt  is  correct,  this  flour,  or  the  flour  from  which  the  bran  and  pol- 
lard only  are  separated,  was  found,  from  an  unvaried  series  of  experi- 
ments made  from  age  to  age,  through  the  course  of  many  hundred 
years,  to  be  three-fourths  in  weight  of  the  whole  grain  of  wheat, 
taking  all  sorts  of  wheats  together ;  and  the  bread  made  from  this 
flour  has  always  been  decreed  the  standard  of  the  food  of  bread  corn. 
But,  by  insensible  degrees,  the  manufacture  of  bread  became  separated 
into  two  distinct  employments.  To  this  cause  Mr.  Edlin  attributes 
the  custom  —  the  pernicious  custom,  as  he  considers  it — of  making 
bread  from  other  flour  than  that  we  have  described,  which  many  per- 
sons assert  is  more  wholesome  and  more  nutritious  than  that  made  of 
the  finest  flour.  The  miller  not  considering  himself  liable  to  the 
assize  laws,  made  different  kinds  of  flour,  some  of  which  was  ex- 
tremely fine  and  white.  The  bread  made  of  this  flour  was  so  very 
white,  and  pleasing  to  the  eye  and  palate,  that  in  the  course  of  a  few 
years  it  got  into  general  use,  and  the  people,  particularly  the  Lon- 
doners, refused  to  buy  the  bread  made  of  the  whole  of  the  grain, 
except  the  husks,  or  coarse  and  fine  bran. 

To  this  circumstance,  perhaps,  may  be  attributed  the  almost  uni- 
versal use  of  alum  in  bakers'  bread  not  made  of  the  finest  flour;  and 
very  little  of  it  is  so  made,  for  it  is  impossible  from  a  second  flour, 
which  is  the  flour  generally  used,  to  make  bread  white  without  the 
employment  of  the  bleaching  properties  of  this  ingredient. 

The  assize  of  bread  has  been  for  some  time  abolished,  and  the  baker 
is  entitled  to  sell  his  bread  for  as  much  as  anybody  is  willing  to  give 
for  it.  There  is  very  properly  still  a  heavy  penalty  attached  to  sell- 
ing bread  short  of  weight. 

Potatoes,  called  by  the  bakers  fruit,  are  used  by  them  for  the  pur- 
pose of  aiding  the  fermentation,  and,  as  they  say,  for  the  purpose  of 
improving  the  appearance  of  the  bread,  and  not  for  saving  flour. 
Indeed,  in  the  small  quantities  in  which  we  have  seen  them  used,  not 
more  than  seven  or  eight  pounds  to  two  hundred  and  eighty  pounds 
of  flour,  there  can  be  little  or  nothing  gained  by  them.  Potatoes, 
however,  as  well  as  damaged  rice,  are  no  doubt  used  in  large  quan- 
tities by  cheap,  fraudulent  bakers.  We  utterly  disbelieve  the  stories 
about  bakers  using  ground  bones  to  adulterate  bread,  for  this  reason — 
namely,  that  the  expense  of  making  them  fit  for  such  a  purpose  would 
be  much  greater  than  the  cost  of  flour  itself. 

There  are  instances  on  record  of  convictions  having  been  obtained 
against  bakers  for  using  gypsum,  chalk,  and  pipe-clay,  in  the  manu- 
facture of  bread. 

Carbonate  of  ammonia,  which  is  sometimes  used  by  bakers  in  pro- 
ducing light  and  porous  bread  from  sour  or  damaged  flour,  does  not 
appear  to  be  liable  to  the  same  objections  as  those  urged  against 
alum;  as  the  action  of  the  former  upon  the  bread  is  merely  mechani- 
cal, no  part  of  this  salt  remaining  in  bread  after  it  is  baked.  During 
the  operation  of  baking,  it  causes  the  dough  to  swell  up  into  air  bub- 
bles, which  carry  before  them  stiff  dough,  and  thus  it  renders  the 


THE    BAKER.  141 

dough  porous ;  the  salt  itself  is  at  the  same  time  totally  volatilized, 
and  not  a  particle  remains  in  the  bread.  Caibonate  of  ammonia, 
however,  has  not,  like  alum,  the  property  of  bleaching  the  bread. 

It  is  said,  that  the  carbonate  of  magnesia  of  the  shops,  when  well 
mixed  with  flour  in  the  proportion  of  twenty  to  forty  grains  to  a  pound 
of  flour,  materially  improves  it  for  the  purpose  of  making  bread.  It 
is  recommended  to  be  employed  when  the  flour  is  new,  or  of  a  bad 
quality.  Mr.  Davy,  professor  of  Chemistry,  says,  that  this  substance 
must  be  most  intimately  mixed  with  the  flour,  previous  to  laying  the 
sponge:  and  gives  it  as  his  decided  opinion,  that  not  the  slightest 
danger  can  be  apprehended  from  the  use  of  so  innocent  a  substance, 
in  such  small  quantities  as  he  recommends. 

METHOD    OF    MAKING    BAKERS'    BREAD. 

Having  briefly  described  the  utensils  of  a  bakehouse,  and  having 
descanted  at  some  length  (but  not  longer,  it  is  hoped,  than  the  im- 
portance of  the  subject  requires)  upon  the  ingredients  used  by  public 
bakers  in  the  manufacture  of  bread,  we  shall  proceed  at  once  to  show 
the  methods  they  generally  employ.  We  must  observe,  however, 
that  the  first  method  described  was  witnessed  by  Mr.  Edlin  nearly 
forty  years  ago ;  and  the  second,  which  is  the  mode  now  generally 
followed,  has  been  witnessed  by  the  writer  himself  in  all  its  details. 

The  Old  Method.  —  To  make  a  sack  of  flour  into  bread,  the  baker 
bakes  that  quantity  of  flour,  and  empties  it  into  the  kneading  trough 
— it  is  then  carefully  sifted  through  a  wire  sieve,  which  makes  it  lie 
lighter  and  reduces  any  lumps  that  may  have  been  formed  in  it.  The 
next  process  is  10  dissolve  two  ounces  of  alum,  technically  stuff,  or 
some  call  it  rocky,  in  a  little  water  placed  over  the  fire.  This  is 
then  poured  into  the  seasoning  tub,  and  four  or  five  pounds  of  salt  are 
added  to  it,  with  a  pailful  of  water  pretty  hot,  but  not  too  much  so. 
When  this  mixture,  technically  liquor,  has  cooled  to  the  temperature 
of  about  84°,  from  three  to  four  pints  of  yeast  are  mixed  in  it,  and  the 
whole  having  been  strained  through  the  seasoning  sieve,  is  emptied 
into  a  hole  made  in  the  mass  of  the  flour,  and  mixed  up  with  a  portion 
of  it  to  the  consistence  of  thick  batter.  Dry  flour  is  then  sprinkled 
over  the  top.  This  is  called  the  quarter  sponge,  and  the  operation  is 
denominated  setting.  The  sponge  must  then  be  covered  up  with 
sacks  or  woollen  cloths  to  keep  it  warm,  if  the  weather  be  cold. 

In  this  situation  it  is  left  three  or  four  hours,  when  it  gradually 
swells  and  breaks  through  the  dry  flour  laid  upon  its  surface. 
Another  pailful  of  water,  impregnated  with  alum  and  salt,  is  now 
added  and  well  stirred  in,  and  the  mass  sprinkled  with  flour  and 
covered  up  as  before.  This  is  called  setting  half  sponge. 

The  whole  is  then  well  kneaded,  with  about  two  pailsful  of  more 
water,  for  about  an  hour,  when  the  dough  is  cut  into  pieces  with  a 
knife;  and  to  prevent  it  spreading,  pinned  or  kept  at  one  end  of  the 


142  THE    BAKEK. 

trough  by  a  pin  board.  In  this  state  it  is  left  to  prove,  as  the  bakera 
call  it,  for  about  four  hours.  After  the  proving  process*  is  over,  the 
dough  is  again  well  kneaded  for  about  half  an  hour.  It  is  then 
removed  from  the  inside  of  the  trough  to  its  lid,  where  it  is  cut  into 
pieces,  and  weighed  into  the  quanties  suitable  for  each  loaf. 

The  operation  of  moulding  the  dough  can  be  learnt  only  by  prac- 
tice. It  consists  in  cutting  the  masses  of  weighed  dough,  each  into 
two  equal  parts.  They  are  then  kneaded  either  round  or  long,  and 
one  placed  in  a  hollow  made  in  the  other;  and  the  union  is  completed 
by  a  turn  of  the  knuckles  on  the  centre  of  the  upper  piece.  The 
loaves  are  left  in  the  oven  from  one  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours. 
They  are  then  taken  out,  and,  to  prevent  their  splitting,  are  turned 
their  bottom  side  upwards.  They  are  afterwards  covered  up  with  a 
blanket  to  prevent  as  much  as  possible  evaporation,  by  which  weight 
is  lost,  and  the  bread  becomes  dry  and  unpalatable. 

Mr.  Edlin  has  made  one  mistake  in  the  above  account;  namely,  as 
regards  the  time  when  the  salt  and  alum  are  incorporated  with  the 
flour.  These  ingredients  ought  never  to  be  put  into  the  sponge.  If 
thi.y  were,  the  salt  would  retard  the  fermentation,  and  this  Mr.  Accum 
as  a  chemist  ought  to  have  known,  and  not,  like  many  others,  have 
copied  and  adopted  Mr.  Edlin's  error. 

With  the  exception  just  alluded  to,  the  foregoing  mode  of  making1 
bread  was  pursued  by  the  bakers  some  years  ago,  and  is  still  practised 
by  some  of  them ;  but  the  following  is  the  process  now  pursued. 

Modern  Method. — Take  a  peck  of  potatoes  (about  eight  pounds)  and 
boil  them  with  their  skins  on — then  mash  them  in  the  seasoning  tub, 
add  two  or  three  quarts  of  water,  about  the  same  quantity  of  patent 
yeast  (as  directed  to  be  prepared,  page  136),  and  three  or  four  pounds 
of  flour;  stir  together  well,  and  cover  the  mixture  up  close  with  a 
sack,  and  let  it  stand  from  six  to  twelve  hours,  when  it  will  have 
become  what  is  called  ferment.  Then  empty  a  sack  of  second  flour 
into  the  trough — some  sift  it  in — and  take  a  little  less  than  one  quar- 
ter of  the  sack  of  flour,  and  pin  or  block  it  up  to  one  end  of  the  trough 
with  the  pin-board.  Then  bring  the  seasoning  tub  with  \heferment 
in  it  to  the  trough,  pour  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  warm  water — in 
summer,  cold  —  stir  up  the  mixture  with  the  hands,  and  mash  any 
lumps  of  potatoes  (fruit)  that  may  be  in  —  next,  strain  it  through  a 
sieve  for  the  purpose  of  separating  the  skins  of  the  potatoes;  then 
pour  the  mixture  liquor  into  the  flour  which  had  been  previously 
pinned  or  blocked  up  at  one  end  of  the  trough,  and  mix  it  well  into 
the  flour  with  the  hands — sprinkle  a  little  flour  over  the  top,  and  let 
it  stand  five  or  six  hours,  during  which  time  the  sponge  will  have 
risen  twice.  The  first  rising  is  suffered  to  break  and  go  down.  In 
about  an  hour  or  so,  according  to  the  heat  of  the  bakehouse,  the  sponge 
rises  a  second  time,  and  just  as  it  is  about  again  to  break,  or  when 
the  air  escapes  by  the  bursting  of  the  bubbles,  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  water  (about  three  pailsful)  to  make  up  the  batch  is  poured  into  the 
sponge  from  the  seasoning  tub,  the  water  having  dissolved  in  it  pre- 


«L^fc^''  THE  BAKER-  14 

viously  about  four  pounds  of  salt  and  eight  ounces  of  what  is  called 
stuff — (some 'use  more  than  a  pound  or  sixteen  ounces  of  stuff). 
The  liquor  ought  to  be  well  mixed  with  the  sponge;  which  being 
done,  the  pin-board  is  taken  away,  and  the  whole  of  the  flour  is  well 
worked  up  into  one  mass,  which  is  blocked  up  by  the  pin-board  to  one 
end,  and  left  about  an  hour  in  summer,  and  two  hours  in  winter,  to 
prove;  the  vacant  part  of  the  trough  is  then  sprinkled  with  flour  to 
prevent  the  dough  from  sticking,  the  pin-board  is  knocked  out,  and 
the  dough  is  pitched  out  of  the  trough  on  to  the  lid  of  the  opposite 
trough,  when  it  is  cut  into  masses  and  weighed  —  technically  scaled 
off.  These  masses  are  then  moulded  into  shape  and  put  aside  in  a 
regular  manner,  to  be  finally  moulded  into  loaves,  taking  care  to 
mould  those  first  which  were  first  scaled  off.  Previous  to  the  mould- 
ing, the  oven  must  be  well  swabbed  out,  or  cleaned  with  the  swabber 
or  scuttle,  and  the  up-sets  chalked  to  prevent  the  bread  sticking  to 
them.  They  are  then  placed  at  the  back  and  on  each  side  of  the 
oven  by  means  of  the  peel ;  the  long  loaves,  or  the  quartern  and  half- 
quartern  bricks,  are  put  into  the  oven,  packed  together  as  close  as 
possible — the  common  round  bread  is  also  packed  close — but  the  cot- 
tage bread  must  be  placed  separately,  each  loaf  by  itself,  or  it  will 
not  be  crusted  all  round.  After  placing  the  loaves  in  the  oven,  or,  as 
the  bakers  say,  setting  the  batch,  which  requires  a  good  hand  to  do 
properly,  an  up-set  is  placed  in  front  of  it.  The  potatoes  for  the  next 
ferment  are  put  into  a  tin  or  iron  kettle,  generally  round,  but  some- 
times in  the  form  of  a  fish-kettle,  and  placed  in  the  oven  to  boil. 
When  the  potatoes  are  done,  and  while  they  are  hot,  the  ferment  for 
the  next  batch  must  be  mixed.  Twenty-four  hours  elapse  from  the 
mixing  the  ferment  to  the  time  when  the  bread  is  taken  out  of  the 
oven. 

SUBSTITUTE    FOR    WHEAT-FLOUR    BREAD. 

Under  this  head  we  intend  to  treat  of  the  various  substitutes  which 
have  been  used  at  different  times,  and  in  different  countries,  for  bread 
made  of  wheat  flour.  We  allude  to  bread  made  of  rye,  barley,  oats, 
peas,  beans,  buckwheat,  maize,  farinaceous  roots,  and  of  mixed  sub- 
stances, <fcc.  This  subject  is  not  without  interest,  independent  of 
utility,  and  a  work  of  this  kind  would  scarcely  be  complete  if  it  were 
not  introduced.  We  shall  enter  upon  it  with  few  general  remarks. 

Bread  Corn — properly  so  called,  of  which  bread  is  made  in  this 
country,  and  other  civilized  nations,  comprehends  the  seeds  of  all 
cerealia,  or  farinaceous  grass-like  plants,  for  they  all  contain  a  farina- 
ceous or  mealy  substance  of  a  like  nature ;  and  which  substance  is 
chiefly  composed  of  starch.  The  seeds  or  grain  in  common  use  are, 
first  and  principally,  wheat,-  second,  rye;  and  third,  barley. 

Wheat  is  the  only  grain  from  which  really  good,  porous,  or  light 
bread  can  be  made ;  but  rye  and  barley  are  occasionally  used,  as  well 


144  THE    BAKER. 

as  other  grain.  The  bread,  however,  is  of  an  inferior  quality.  A 
sort  of  bread  is  also  made  from  oats,  maize,  rice,  millet,  &c. 

Rice  is  said,  and  no  doubt  truly,  to  nourish  more  human  beings 
than  all  the  other  seeds  together  used  as  food  ;  arid  it  is  by  many  con- 
sidered the  most  nutritive  of  all  kinds  of  grain.  Accum,  in  the  Art 
of  making  Bread,  says,  that  "  it  has  been  ascertained,  that  one  part 
of  rice  contains  as  much  food  and  useful  nourishment  as  six  of  wheat ;" 
an  assertion  by  the  way  which  we  are  much  inclined  to  disbelieve. 
But  be  this  as  it  may,  there  is  no  doubt  that  rice  makes  a  very  nou- 
rishing and  healthy  food,  notwithstanding  the  prejudices  that  prevailed 
against  it,  on  the  unfounded  allegation  that  it  caused  diseases  in  the 
eye.  Rice  is  the  principal  food  of  most  of  the  eastern  nations,  a  fact 
which  shows  that  it  is  not  unhealthy.  Rice  is  not,  however,  often 
made  into  bread  without  the  addition  of  flour,  and  when  it  is,  it  forms 
a  loaf  of  very  inferior  quality. 

Maize  is  frequently  employed  as  bread-corn  in  America,  but  it  will 
not  by  itself  make  good  loaf-bread  ;  but  unleavened  cakes  are  made 
of  it,  very  nutritive  and  palatable. 

Oatmeal  is  seldom  used  for  making  loaf-bread,  but  is  extensively 
used  in  the  north  of  Great  Britain  in  making  unleavened  bread,  com- 
monly called  oat-cakes.  It  may  be  observed  here,  that  the  objection 
to  biscuits,  oat-cakes,  maize-cakes,  and  other  unleavened  bread,  on 
the  ground  of  their  being  unhealthy,  and  of  course  not  nutritive,  ap- 
pears to  be  without  foundation.  There  can  be  no  doubt,  however, 
that  they  are  inferior  as  food  to  good  wheaten  loaf-bread. 

The  seeds  of  leguminous  plants,  such  as  pease  and  beans,  are  some- 
times used  as  substitutes  for  bread-corn.  They  yield  a  great  deal  of 
meal,  which  is  of  a  sweetish  taste,  but  it  forms  a  coarse  bread,  and  is 
generally  considered  neither  palatable  nor  digestible.  Dr.  Cullen 
says,  that  "on  certain  farms  in  his  country,  upon  which  the  legumi- 
nous seeds  are  produced  in  great  abundance,  the  labouring  servants 
are  much  fed  upon  this  kind  of  grain  ;  but  if  such  servants  are  removed 
to  a  farm  upon  which  the  leguminous  seeds  are  not  in  such  plenty, 
and  they  are,  therefore,  fed  with  the  cereafia  (wheat,  barley,  &c.), 
they  soon  find  a  decay  of  strength  ;  and  it  is  common  for  servants,  in 
making  such  removals,  to  insist  on  their  being  provided  daily,  or 
weekly,  with  a  certain  quantity  of  the  leguminous  meal."  It  does 
not,  however,  follow,  that  pease  or  bean-flower  bread  would  be  found 
generally  so  nutritive  or  digestible  as  wheat-flour  bread.  A  great 
deal  may  be  attributed  to  habit,  and  the  laborious  employment  of 
farmers'  servants  in  the  open  air. 

All  the  vegetable  substances  from  which  bread  is  made,  contain 
more  or  Jess  of  starch,  or  what  is  otherwise  called  amylaceous  fecula, 
and  this  is  the  most  valuable  and  nutritive  part  of  all  such  substances, 
whether  they  consist  of  grain,  or  roots,  &c. 

We  scarcely  need  observe,  that  the  potatoe,  amongst  roots,  is  the 
most  extensively  used  as  a  substitute  for  bread.  In  many  countries, 


THE    BAKER.  145 

particularly  Ireland,  it  is  almost  the  exclusive  food  of  the  poor.    The 

potatoe  contains  a  great  deal  of  starch. 

Rict.  notwithstanding  its  rough  and  dry  qualities,  as  a  farinaceous 
vegetable,  is  capable  of  being  converted  into  bread,  without  the  addi 
lion  of  any  other  substance.  The  Americans,  however,  make  bread 
of  rice  by" washing  it  in  water  till  perfectly  clean.  They  then,  after 
the  rice  has  been  sufficiently  drained,  put  it  into  a  mortar,  and  reduce 
it  while  damp  into  a  sort  of  powder;  it  is  then  completely  dried,  and 
passed  through  a  hair-sieve.  The  flour  thus  obtained,  it  is  said,  is 
then  generally  mixed  with  a  little  Indian  corn-meal,  and  boiled  into 
a  thickish  consistence,  which  is  sometimes  mixed  with  boiled  pota 
toes,  and  fermented  and  baked  in  tins,  or  pans,  in  the  usual  manner. 
The  bread,  we  are  told,  made  in  this  way,  is  light  and  wholesome — 
"  pleasing  to  the  eye.  and  agreeable  to  the  taste." 

Tfct  a  sort  of  bread  may  be  made  from  rice,  without  the  addition  of 
any  other  kind  of  meal.  Let  a  sufficient  quantity  of  rice-flour  be  put 
into  a  kneading  trough,  and  at  the  same  time  let  a  due  proportion  of 
flour  be  boiledrinto  which  throw  a  few  handsful  of  rice  in  the  grain, 
and  boil  it  till  it  is  broken.  This  compound  will  form  a  thick  and 
viscous  substance,  which  is  poured  upon  the  flour,  and  the  whole  is 
kneaded  with  a  mixture  of  salt  and  yeast,  or  other  fermenting  matter. 
The  dough  is  then  covered  with  flannel  or  other  cloths  to  keep  it 
warm,  and  left  to  rise.  This  dough,  though  firm  at  first,  in  the  course 
of  fermentation  becomes  as  liquid  as  soup,  and  is  quite  incapable  of 
being  worked  into  loaves,  in  the  usual  manner,  by  the  hand.  The 
following  is  the  mode  by  which  this  difficulty  is  surmounted: — The 
oven  is  heated  while  the  dough  is  rising;  and  it  being  sufficiently  hot, 
the  dough  is  put  into  a  tin  pan,  which  is  covered  with  a  paper,  or 
large  leaves.  The  tin  is  then  placed  in  the  oven,  and  immediately 
reversed  or  turned  upside  down ;  the  heat  prevents  the  dough  from 
spreading,  and,  in  ract,  fixes  it  in  that  shape  given  it  by  the  stewpan 
or  box.  "This  bread  is  said  to  be  "both  beautiful  and  good;"  but 
when  it  gets  stale,  it  becomes  very  much  deteriorated  —  as  indeed 
does  all  bread  in  which  there  is  rice" 

Potatoes,  mixed  in  various  proportions  with  meal,  are  frequently 
employed  in  the  making  of  bread.  The  London  bakers  all  use  them 
in  greater  or  less  quantities  —  not,  as  they  say,  to  save  flour,  but  to 
assist  fermentation.  There  are  various  ways 'in  which  potatoes  may 
be  used  with  meal  in  the  production  of  bread,  —  potatoes  alone  will 
not  make  good  bread  ;  the  potatoe  is  not  of  an  adhesive  quality,  and 
the  bread  is  not  only  brown  and  heavy,  but  crumbles  to  pieces. 
M.  Parmentier,  to  render  it  more  adhesive,  mixed  with  the  potatoe- 
meal  a  decoction  of  bran,  and  sometimes  honey  and  water;  either  of 
which,  he  says,  much  improved  it,  by  rendering  it  lighter,  better 
coloured,  well  tasted,  and  sufficiently  consistent. 

He  obtained  also,  he  adds,  well-fermented  bread,  of  a  good  colour 
and  taste,  by  mixing  some  potatoe  pulp  with  meal  of  wheat,  or  pota- 
13 


. 

.46  THE    BAKER. 

toe-meal,  with  the  addition  of  yeast  and  salt.  After  repeated  trials, 
he  recommends,  in  times  of  scarcity,  a  mixture  of  potatoes  with  the 
meal  of  wheat,  in  preference  to  the  meal  of  any  other  grain.  Where 
no  flour  or  grain  can  be  obtained,  Parmentier  recommends  the  use  of 
bread  made  from  the  amylaceous  (partaking  of  starch)  powder  of 
potatoes,  —  potatoe  pulp,  mixed  and  fermented,  with  the  addition  of 
honey.  Potatoe-meal,  when  mixed  with  water,  acquires  a  gluey 
consistence,  but  bread  made  from  this  and  the  flour  of  wheat  is  never 
of  a  good  colour.  That,  however,  which  is  made  of  a  mixture  of  the 
pulp  with  the  flour  of  wheat,  is  much  whiter.  Parmentier,  we  are 
informed,  made  bread  very  much  resembling  that  of  wheat,  by  mixing 
four  ounces  of  amylaceous  powder  of  potatoes,  one  drachm  of  muci- 
lage, extracted  from  barley,  one  drachm  of  the  bran  of  rye,  and  one 
drachm  of  glutinous  matter,  dried  and  pounded  into  powder. 

A  German  writer  upon  country  affairs,  of  thn  name  of  Khyogg, 
who  has  obtained  the  name  of  the  Rustic  Socrates,  recommends,  that 
potatoes  well  boiled  and  carefully  peeled  should  be  put  into  a  knead- 
ing-trough, covered  with  boiling  water,  and  beaten  or  bruised  till  they 
are  converted  into  a  kind  of  soup,  throughout  of  one  consistence. 
This  soup  may  be  mixed  with  the  flour  of  wheat  in  the  proportion  of 
one-fourth,  one-third,  and  even  one-half;  and  if  the  flour  be  of  good 
quality,  the  bread  will  be  found  pleasant,  nourishing,  and  wholesome. 
This  is  the  principal  food  of  the  peasantry  in  German  Lorraine,  and 
the  people  of  that  country  are  remarkable  for  their  healthy,  robust, 
and  vigorous  constitutions;  the  young  men  are  tall  and  handsome, 
and  the  country  is  thickly  populated. 

In  Vogstand  and  in  Saxony,  potatoes  are  prepared  for  bread  by 
peeling  them,  grating  them  very  fine,  and  by  putting  the  pulp  into  a 
milk-pail,  or  some  other  suitable  vessel.  It  is  then  mixed  with  cold 
water,  which  is  allowed  to  remain  upon  the  pulp  twenty-four  hours. 
The  water  is  then  drawn  off,  and  other  water  added,  and  again  drawn 
till  the  water  comes  off  quite  pure.  The  potatoe  pulp  is  then  drained 
through  a  clean  cloth,  and  then  spread  upon  a  plate,  or  some  other 
surface,  till  dry.  After  this,  it  is  reduced  to  a  fine  powder,  mixed 
with  an  equal  portion  of  wheat  flour,  and  made  into  bread  by  the 
usual  process. 

We  have  thought  it  right  to  lay  before  our  readers  the  various 
ways  in  which  it  has  been  recommended  to  employ  potatoes  in  mak- 
ing bread  in  times  of  scarcity ;  but  after  all,  our  own  opinion  is,  that 
the  best  and  most  economical  mode  of  using  potatoes  is  simply  to  boil 
them  as  they  do  in  Ireland,  where,  it  is  much  to  be  regretted,  they 
stand  instead  of  all  other  food  to  the  mass  of  the  population. 

Many  other  substances  have  been  employed  in  making  bread  other 
than  those  of  the  flour  of  farinaceous  vegetables,  such  as  wheat,  bar- 
ley, rye,  Indian-corn,  oats,  &c.  The  latter  grain  makes  an  excellent 
unleavened  bread,  and  is  much  eaten  in  Scotland,  Lancashire,  and 
several  of  the  northern  English  counties.  It  is  called  oat-cake,  and 
ii  preferred  by  many  persons  to  wheaten  bread. 


THE    BAKER.  147 

Bread  mad*  of  Moots.— M.  Parmentier,  late  chief  Apothecary  in  the 
Hotel  des  Invalides,  whose  authority  we  have  before  quoted,  has  pub- 
lished numerous  and  very  curious  experiments  on  the  vegetables, 
which  in  times  of  scarcity  might  be  used  in  the  subsistence  of  ani- 
mals, as  substitutes  for  those  usually  employed  for  that  purpose.  The 
result  of  these  experiments  in  the  mind  of  M.  Parmentier  was,  that 
starch  is  the  nutritive  part  of  farinaceous  vegetables,  and  that  thd 
farina  of  plants  was  identical  with  the  starch  of  wheat.  The  plants 
from  which  he  extracted  this  farina  are  the  bryony,  the  iris,  gladiolus, 
ranunculus,  fumaria,  arum,  dracunculus,  mandragora,  colchicum,  fili- 
pendula,  helleborus,  and  the  roots  of  the  gramen  caninum  arvense,  or 
dog  grass  of  the  fields. 

The  mode  employed  by  M.  Parmentier  to  extract  the  starch,  or 
farina,  from  these  vegetables,  was  merely  bruising  and  boiling.  The 
roots  were  cleansed  and  scraped,  then  reduced  to  a  pulp,  which  being 
soaked  in  a  considerable  quantity  of  water,  a  white  sediment  is  de- 
posited, which  when  properly  washed  and  dried  will  be  found  to  be 
pure  starch.  M.  Parmentier  converted  this  starch  into  bread  by 
mingling  it  with  an  equal  quantity  of  potatoes  reduced  to  a  pulp,  and 
employing  the  usual  quantity  of  yeast  or  other  leaven.  The  bread, 
we  are  informed,  had  no  bad  taste,  and  was  of  excellent  quality. 

From  these  experiments  of  M.  Parmentier,  it  appears,  that  it  is 
chiefly  the  amylaceous  matter  or  starch  of  grain  that  is  nutritious ; 
and,  that  the  nutritive  quality  of  other  vegetable  substances  depends 
in  a  great  measure  on  the  quantity  of  that  matter  which  they  contain. 
Starch  formed  into  a  jelly,  and  diffused  in  water,  will  keep  a  long 
time  without,  change. 

Ragwort. — Bread  has  been  made  in  times  of  scarcity  from  the  roots 
of  this  plant.  When  ragwort  root  is  first  taken  out  of  the  ground,  it 
is  Boff,  and  viscous,  but  becomes  hard  in  a  short  time,  and  may  be  pre- 
served in  that  state  for  years  without  being  at  all  deteriorated,  pro- 
viding it  be  kept  in  a  dry,  airy  place.  When  this  root  is  ground  and 
reduced  to  flour,  which  it  may  easily  be,  it  has  an  agreeable  nut-like 
taste.  It  is  said  to  be  easily  digested  when  made  into  bread,  and  to 
be  more  nutritive  and  "exhilarating,"  than  wheaten  bread.  The 
same  properties  and  effects  are  attributed  to  radishes,  but  we  appre- 
hend not  truly. 

Turnip  Bread — is  made  of  turnips  mixed  with  equal  quantities  of 
wheat  flour.  The  turnips  must  be  first  washed  clean,  then  pared  and 
boiled.  Mash  them  and  press  the  water  out  of  them  —  at  least  the 

freater  part.  Mix  with  an  equal  quantity  in  weight  of  coarse  meal 
our — make  the  dough  in  the  usual  manner,  and  when  risen,  form  it 
into  loaves,  and  bake  it  rather  more  than  ordinary  bread  ;  when  taken 
from  the  oven  it  will  be  light  and  sweet,  with  a  little  taste  of  the 
turnip.  "  After  it  has  been  allowed  to  stand,"  says  our  authority, 
"twelve  hours,  the  taste  of  the  turnips  is  scarcely  perceptible,  and 
the  smell  is  quite  gone.  After  an  interval  of  twenty-four  hours,  it 


148  THE    BAKER. 

cannot  be  known  that  it  has  turnips  in  its  composition,  although  it 
has  still  a  peculiar  sweetish  taste:  it  appears  to  be  rather  superior  to 
bread  made  only  of  wheat  flour,  is  fresher  and  moister,  and  even  after 
a  week  continues  very  good."  We  are  of  opinion,  however,  that  it 
cannot  be  so  good  as  wheat  bread ;  for,  independent  of  other  consi- 
derations, turnips  do  not  contain  so  much  starch  or  nutritive  matter 
as  wheat. 

Apple  Bread.  —  A  bread  said  to  be  very  superior  to  potatoe  bread 
has  been  made  from  the  use  of  common  apples  with  meal.  Boil  one- 
third  of  peeled  apples ;  while  quite  warm,  bruise  them  into  two-thirds 
of  flour,  including  the  proper  quantity  of  leaven,  or  yeast;  knead 
without  water,  the  juice  of  the  fruit  being  quite  sufficient.  When 
this  mixture  has  acquired  the  consistency  of  paste,  put  it  into  a  ves- 
sel to  rise  for  about  twelve  hours.  By  this  process  may  be  obtained 
a  very  sweet  bread,  full  of  eyes  and  extremely  light. 

Meslin  Bread.  —  A  good  bread  is  made  in  many  parts  of  England 
from  what  is  called  meslin,  which  is  a  mixture  of  rye  and  wheat. 
This  is  raised  on  one  and  the  same  ground  at  the  same  time,  and 
passes  through  the  processes  of  reaping,  thrashing,  grinding,  and 
dressing,  in  the  mixed  state. 

Salep  Bread. — Dr.  Percival  recommends  the  employment  of  orchis 
root  in  powder,  or,  as  it  is  called,  salep.  He  says,  that  an  ounce  of 
salep,  dissolved  in  a  quart  of  water,  and  mixed  with  two  pounds  of 
flour,  two  ounces  of  yeast,  and  eighty  grains  of  salt,  produced  a 
remarkably  good  loaf,  weighing  three  pounds  two  ounces ;  while  a 
loaf  made  of  an  equal  quantity  of  the  other  ingredients,  without  the 
salep,  or  powdered  orchis  root,  weighed  but  two  pounds  twelve  ounces. 
If  the  salep  be  in  too  large  quantities,  its  peculiar  taste  will  be  dis- 
tinguishable in  the  bread. 

Oat  and  Barley  Bread. — The  Norwegians,  we  are  informed,  make 
bread  of  barley  and  oatmeal  baked  between  two  stones.  This  bread, 
it  is  added,  improves  by  age,  and  may  be  kept  thirty  or  forty  years ! ! 
At  their  great  festivals,  they  use  their  oldest  bread;  and  it  is  not 
unusual,  at  the  baptism  of  a  child,  to  have  bread  that  was  baked  at 
the  baptism  of  the  grandfather. 

Delretzen  Bread. —  In  some  parts  of  Hungary,  Debretzen  for  in- 
stance, they  have  a  peculiar  mode  of  fermenting  bread  without  yeast, 
by  means  of  a  leaven  made  in  the  following  manner.  Two  large 
handsful  of  hops  are  boiled  in  four  quarts  of  water ;  this  decoction  is 
poured  upon  as  much  wheaten  bran  as  it  will  moisten,  and  to  this  are 
added  four  or  five  pounds  of  leaven.  When  the  mass  is  warm,  the 
ingredients  are  well  worked  together,  so  as  to  be  thoroughly  mixed. 
It  is  then  deposited  in  a  warm  place  for  twenty-four  hours,  and  after- 
wards divided  into  small  pieces,  about  the  size  of  hens'  eggs,  which 
are  dried  by  being  placed  upon  a  board  and  exposed  to  dry  air,  but 
not  to  the  sun ;  when  dry,  they  are  laid  up  for  use,  and  may  be  kept 
for  six  months. 


TFIE    BAKER.  149 

The  following  is  given  as  the  mode  by  which  bread  is  made  from 
the  above-described  ferment.  For  baking  six  large  loaves,  six  good 
handsful  of  these  balls  are  dissolved  in  seven  or  eight  quarts  of  warm 
water  —  this  mixture  is  poured  through  a  sieve  atone  end  of  the 
bread-trough,  and  after  it  three  quarts  of  warm  water,  the  remaining 
mass  being  well  pressed  out»  The  liquor  is  mixed  up  with  flour  suf- 
ficient to  form  one  large  loaf;  they  then  strew  this  mass  over  with 
flour,  the  sieve  with  its  contents  is  put  upon  it,  and  the  whole  is 
covered  up  and  kept  warm  and  left  to  rise,  or  till  the  flour  upon  it 
begins  to  crack.  Fifteen  quarts  of  warm  water,  in  which  six  hands- 
ful of  salt  have  been  dissolved,  are  then  poured  upon  it  through  the 
sieve ;  the  necessary  quantity  of  flour  is  added,  and  the  whole  is  well 
kneaded  together.  The  dough  is  then  covered  up  and  kept  warm  for 
half  an  hour.  It  is  then  formed  into  loaves  which  are  kept  for  another 
half  hour  in  a  warm  room ;  and  after  that  they  are  put  into  an  oven, 
where  they  remain  for  two  or  three  hours  according  to  their  size. 

There  is  certainly  an  advantage  in  this  kind  of  ferment — which  ie, 
its  capability  of  keeping  for  a  long  time,  and  of  being  made  in  large 
quantities.  On  this  account  it  would  be  convenient  on  board  of  ships, 
or  in  the  camp  of  an  army. 

Millet  Bread. — Bread  made  of  millet,  if  eaten  when  warm,  is  pretty 
palatable,  but  when  cold,  it  becomes  dry  and  crumbly.  Besides, 
though  nutritive  when  boiled,  it  is  not  so  in  bread,  but  becomes  a 
very  powerful  astringent.  According  to  Pliny,  however,  it  would 
appear,  that  millet  was  in  very  general  use  as  food  in  Italy  among 
the  peasantry.  "  There  is  no  grain,"  he  says,  "  more  heavy,  or  which 
swells  more  in  baking."  Probably  the  Italians  had  some  method  for 
counteracting  its  astringent  properties.  It  is  said  to  be  an  excellent 
leaven,  and  has  been  recommended  for  malting. 

Maize  Bread — is  made  of  maize,  or  Indian-corn  flour,  which  is  in 
common  and  extensive  use  in  nearly  all  parts  of  North  and  South 
America.  Knead  the  flour  with  a  little  salt  and  water  into  a  stiff 
mass  —  roll  out  into  thin  cakes,  and  bake  on  a  hot  iron.  A  hoe  is 
frequently  used  in  America.  Another  kind  of  maize  bread  is  called 

Homminy  Cake,  —  To  make  this  the  Indian-corn,  freed  from  the 
husks,  is  boiled  with  a  small  portion  of  French  beans,  until  the  whole 
becomes  a  pulp;  this  is  made  into  cakes,  ana1  baked  over  hot  embers, 
or  it  may  be  eaten  in  the  pulp,  which  is  frequently  the  case. 

Bean  Flour  Bread. — Take  a  quarter  of  a  peck  of  bean  flour  and  one 
ounce  of  salt;  mix  it  into  a  thick  batter  with  water— pour  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  this  batter  to  make  a  cake  in  an  iron  kettle  ;  and  bake 
over  the  fire;  it  will  require  frequent  turning. 

Buckwheat  Bread — is  thus  directed  to  be  made  by  the  Board  of 

Agriculture :    Take  a  gallon  of  water,  set  it  over  a  fire,  and  when  it 

boils,  let  a  peck  of  buckwheat  flour  be  mixed  with  it,  little  by  little, 

and  keep  the  mixture  constantly  stirred,  to  prevent  any  lumps  being 

13* 


150  fHE  BAKER. 

formed,  till  a  thick  batter  is  made.  Then  add  two  or  three  ounces 
of  salt,  set  it  over  the  fire  again,  and  allow  it  to  boil  an  hour  and  a 
half;  pour  the  proper  proportion  for  a  cake  into  an  iron  kettle,  and 
bake  it. 


Bread  —  is  made  of  ripe  acorns  deprived  of  their  husks  or 
skins,  and  beaten  into  a  paste.  To  extract  the  astringent  quality  of 
the  acorns,  put  the  paste  into  water  for  a  night,  and  then  press  the 
water  from  the  paste.  The  mass  when  dried  and  powdered  must  be 
kneaded  up  into  a  dough  with  water,  and  raked  out  into  thin  cakes, 
which  may  be  baked  over  embers.  This  bread  is  said  not  to  be  dis- 
agreeable, and  no  doubt  was  considered  a  great  luxury  by  our  British 
ancestors  in  the  time  of  the  oak-worshipping  Druids. 

Oatmeal  Cakes  are  thus  made  :  —  To  a  peck  of  oatmeal  add  a  few 
table-spoonsful  of  salt;  knead  into  a  stiff  paste  with  warm  water;  roll 
the  paste  into  thin  cakes,  and  bake  it  in  an  oven,  over  a  hot  iron  plate, 
or  on  embers.  Sometimes  oat-cake  is  fermented  a  little,  which  makes 
the  cakes  light  and  porous. 

Oatmeal  and  Pease  Bread.  —  To  a  peck  of  pease  flour,  and  a  like 
quantity  of  oatmeal,  previously  well  mixed,  by  passing  the  two  flours 
through  a  sieve,  add  three  or  four  ounces  of  salt  ;  knead  into  a  stiff 
mass  with  warm  water  ;  roll  out  into  thin  cakes  ;  and  bake  in  an  oven. 
In  some  parts  of  Lancashire  and  Scotland,  this  kind  of  bread  is  made 
into  flattened  rolls,  and  they  are  usually  baked  in  an  iron  pot. 

Chestnut  Bread  —  is  made  from  horse-chestnuts,  which  are  seldom 
or  never  used  for  food  in  this  country,  though  their  nutritious  quali- 
ties are  well  known  to  the  people  in  the  southern  parts  of  Europe, 
particularly  in  some  districts  of  Italy,  and  in  the  island  of  Corsica, 
where  it  is  the  chief  and  almost  the  whole  of  the  food  of  the  peasantry. 
To  make  this  bread,  take  a  peck  of  horse-chestnuts;  peel  the  skins 
off  them  ;  let  them  be  bruised  into  a  paste  ;  dilute  the  mass  with  water, 
which  destroys  their  astringency,  and  then  strain  them  through  a 
sieve  ;  a  milky  liquor  is  thus  separated,  which  on  standing  deposits  a 
fine  white  powder;  this,  on  being  dried  and  ground  into  flour,  is  found 
to  be  without  smell  or  flavour.  It  is  then  made  up,  sometimes  by 
itself,  and  not  unfrequently  with  an  equal  portion  of  wheat  flour,  into 
a  paste,  with  warm  milft  and  a  little  salt,  and  when  baked  makes  a 
very  eatable  bread. 

Potatoe  Bread.  —  Boil  the  potatoes,  and  rub  them  through  a  cullen- 
der or  sieve,  and,  while  hot,  rub  them  in  with  the  flour,  which  ought 
to  be  previously  dried.  The  potatoes  should  be  in  proportion  to  the 
flour  of  one-third  or  one-half!  Milk  and  water  is  sonetimes  used  for 
making  potatoe  bread. 

Eye  Bread  —  Barley  Bread  —  and  bread  made  of  equal  parts  of  rye 
flour  and  wheat  flour,  or  of  equal  parts  of  barley  flour,  rye  flour,  and 
wheat  flour  —  are  made  in  the  same  way  as  already  described.  Milk, 
or  milk  and  water,  is  preferred,  in  making  rye  bread,  to  pure  water. 


THE    BAKER.  151 

The  Bread  Trtt. — Various  substances  have  been  employed  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  world  as  substitutes  for  making  bread,  in  the 
absence  of  farinaceous  or  flour-yielding  vegetables.  The  bread  tree, 
or  rather  the  fruit  of  this  tree,  ranks  first  among  the  substances  alluded 
to.  The  bread  tree  is  common  in  many  parts  of  the  east.  It  is  very 
abundant  at  Surinam,  where  extensive  avenues  may  be  seen  of  it, 
loaded  with  luxuriant  crops  of  fruit.  As  a  brief  account  of  this  extra- 
ordinary tree  cannot  fail  to  be  interesting  to  our  readers  (previous  to 
giving  a  description  of  the  mode  of  preparing  the  fruit  for  food),  we 
beg  to  lay  before  them  the  following  remarks  and  extracts.  > 

All  the  species  of  the  bread  fruit  tree,  of  which  there  are  eight,  are 
natives  of  the  South  Sea  islands.  More  than  one  hundred  and  fifty 
years  ago,  this  tree  had  excited  great  interest  amongst  Europeans, 
and  particularly  amongst  the  people  of  Great  Britain.  Dampier,  who 
performed  his  voyage  round  the  world  in  1688,  thus  describes  it: — 

"The  bread  fruit  as  we  call  it,  grows  on  a  large  tree  as  big  and 
high  as  our  largest  apple  trees;  it  hath  a  spreading  head,  full  of 
branches  and  dark  leaves.  Tne  fruit  grows  on  the  boughs  like 
apples;  it  is  as  big  as  a  penny  loaf  when  wheat  is  at  five  shillings  the 
bushel ;  it  is  of  a  round  shape,  and  hath  a  thick  tough  rind.  When 
the  fruit  is  ripe  it  is  yellow  and  soft,  and  the  taste  is  sweet  and  plea- 
sant. The  natives  of  Guam  use  it  for  bread.  They  gather  it  when 
it  is  full  grown,  while  it  is  green  and  hard;  then  they  bake  it  in  an 
oven,  which  scorcheth  the  rind  and  maketh  it  black ;  but  they  scrape 
off'  the  black  crust,  and  there  remains  a  tender  thin  crust ;  and  the 
inside  is  soft,  tender,  and  white,  like  the  crumb  of  a  penny  loaf. 
There  is  neither  core  nor  stone  in  the  inside,  but  all  is  of  a  pure  sub- 
stance like  bread.  It  must  be  eaten  new,  for  if  kept  more  than  twen- 
ty-four hours,  it  becomes  hard  and  choaky ;  but  it  is  very  pleasant 
before  it  is  too  stale.  This  fruit  lasts  in  season  eight  months  in  the 
year;  during  which  the  natives  eat  no  other  sort  of  bread  kind.  I 
did  never  see  this  fruit  anywhere  but  here.  The  natives  told  us 
there  was  plenty  of  this  fruit  growing  on  the  rest  of  the  Ladrone 
islands;  and  I  did  never  hear  of  it  anywhere  else." 

So  much  for  Dampier's  account,  which,  however,  does  not  appear 
to  be  quite  correct.  The  great  circumnavigator,  Cook,  thus  describes 
the  fruit  in  question:  — "  It  grows  on  a  tree  about  the  size  of  a  mid- 
dling oak.  Its  leaves  are  frequently  a  foot  and  a  half  long,  of  an 
oblong  shape,  deeply  sinuated  like  those  of  the  fig-tree,  which  they 
resemble  in  consistence  and  colour,  and  in  the  exuding  of  a  white 
milky  juice  upon  being  broken.  The  fruit  is  about  the  size  and  shape 
of  a  child's  head,  and  the  surface  is  reticulated,  not  much  unlike  a 
truffle.  It  is  covered  with  a  thin  skin,  and  hath  a  core  about  as  big 
as  the  handle  of  a  small  knife.  The  eatable  part  lies  between  the 
bkin  and  the  core.  It  is  as  white  as  snow,  and  somewhat  of  the  con- 
sistence of  nev?  bread.  It  must  be  roasted  before  it  is  eaten ;  being 
divided  into  three  or  four  parts.  Its  taste  is  insipid,  with  a  slight 


152  THE    BAKER. 

sourness,  somewhat  resembling  that  of  the  crumb  of  wheaten  bread, 
mixed  with  a  Jerusalem  artichoke." 

The  above  is  the  sober  and  satisfactory  account  of  the  bread  tree 
and  its  fruit,  as  given  by  the  illustrious  Cook.  Dr.  Hawkesworth's 
description  of  its  advantages  is  amusing,  but  extravagant.  He  says, 
"  if  a  man  plants  ten  bread  fruit  trees  in  his  lifetime,  which  he  may 
do  in  about  an  hour,  he  will  as  completely  fulfil  his  duty  to  his  own 
and  future  generations,  as  the  natives  of  our  less  temperate  climate 
can  by  ploughing  in  the  cold  winter,  and  reaping  in  the  summer's 
heat,  as  often  as  those  seasons  return.  Even  if,  after  he  has  procured 
bread  for  his  present  household,  he  should  convert  the  surplus  into 
money,  and  lay  it  up  for  his  children." 

The  bread  fruit  tree  has  been  planted  in  some  of  the  West  India 
colonies,  but  with  little  success  as  to  any  advantages  to  be  derived 
from  it.  Indeed,  its  fruit  appears  to  us  to  have  been  greatly  exag- 
gerated with  respect  to  its  beneficial  application  as  food  for  the  use 
of  man.  It  has  been  observed,  however,  that  "  even  in  those  colonies 
into  which  the  bread  fruit  has  not  been  generally  introduced  as  an 
article  of  food,  it  is  used  as  a  delicacy  ;  or  whether  employed  as  bread, 
or  in  the  form  of  pudding,  it  is  considered  as  highly  palatable  by  the 
European  inhabitants." 

Bread  Fruit  Bread. — To  prepare  the  fruit  for  use  instead  of  bread, 
it  must  be  roasted,  either  whole,  or  cut  into  three  or  four  pieces.  It 
is  also  cooked  in  an  oven,  which  renders  it  soft,  and  something  like 
a  boiled  potatoe ;  not  quite  so  mealy  as  a  good  one,  but  more  so  than 
those  of  an  inferior  description.  The  Otaheitans  make  three  dishes 
of  it,  by  putting  either  milk  or  the  milk  of  cocoa-nut  to  it,  then  beat- 
ing it  to  a  paste  with  a  stone  pestle,  and  afterwards  mixing  it  with 
ripe  plantains,  bananas,  or  mahie. 

This  mahie  is  a  preparation  of  the  ripe  bread  fruit,  for  which  it  is 
substituted  during  the  season,  just  before  gathering  a  fresh  crop.  It 
is  made  thus : — The  fruit  is  gathered  just  before  it  is  perfectly  ripe, 
and  being  laid  in  heaps,  is  closely  covered  with  leaves;  in  this  state 
it  undergoes  a  fermentation,  and  becomes  disagreeably  sweet.  The 
core  is  then  taken  out  entire,  by  gently  pulling  the  stalk,  and  the 
fruit  is  thrown  into  a  hole  which  is  dug  for  that  purpose,  generally  in 
the  houses,  and  neatly  lined  in  the  bottom  and  sides  with  grass;  the 
whole  is  then  covered  with  leaves,  and  heavy  stones  laid  upon  them. 
In  this  state  it  undergoes  a  second  fermentation,  and  becomes  sour ; 
after  which  it  undergoes  no  change  for  many  months.  It  is  taken  out 
of  the  hole  as  it  is  wanted  for  use,  and  being  made  into  balls,  it  is 
wrapped  up  in  leaves,  and  roasted  or  baked.  After  it  is  baked,  it  will 
keep  five  or  six  weeks.  It  is  eaten  both  cold  and  hot,  and  the  natives 
seldom  make  a  meal  without  it.  To  Europeans,  however,  the  taste 
is  said  to  be  as  disagreeable  as  that  of  a  pickled  olive  generally  is  the 
first  time  it  is  eaten. 

Sago  Bread — is  made  from  the  wood  of  the  sago  tree,  in  the  follow 


THE    BAKER.  153 

ing  manner: — The  natives  of  the  islands  of  Banda  and  Amboyna  saw 
the  body  of  the  tree  into  small  pieces,  and,  after  bruising  and  beating 
them  in  a  mortar,  pour  water  upon  the  fragments.  This  is  left  for 
some  hours  undisturbed,  to  let  the  pithy  farinaceous  matter  subside. 
The  water  is  then  poured  off,  and  the  meal,  being  properly  dried,  is 
formed  into  cakes,  or  fermented  and  made  into  bread,  which,  it  is 
said,  is  nearly  as  palatable  as  wheaten  bread.  The  Hottentots  make 
a  kind  of  bread  from  another  species  of  sago  tree.  The  pith  of  this 
tree  is  collected,  and  tied  up  in  dressed  calf,  or  sheep-skin,  and  then 
buried  in  the  ground  for  several  weeks,  which  renders  it  mellow  and 
tender.  It  is  then  made  into  cakes,  which  are  baked  under  hot  em- 
bers. Others  roast  the  sago  tree  pith,  and  make  it  into  a  kind  of 
porridge. 

The  sago  of  commerce  is  made  from  the  pith  of  this  tree,  but  it  is 
granulated  by  passing  it  through  a  sieve.  It  acquires  its  brown 
colour  from  drying  it  on  hot  stones. 

Casava  Bread — is  made  in  the  Caribbee  Islands,  from  a  very  poi- 
sonous root  called  Jatropa  Maniat,  rendered  wholesome  by  the  extrac- 
tion of  its  acrid  juice,  which  the  Indians  use  for  poisoning  their 
arrows.  So  powerfully  poisonous  is  this  juice,  that  a  tea-spoonful  is 
sufficient  to  take  away  the  life  of  a  man.  The  root  of  the  maniat, 
after  being  washed,  scraped  clean,  and  grated  in  a  tub,  is  enclosed  in 
a  sack  made  of  rushes,  of  very  loose  texture.  This  sack  is  suspended 
upon  a  stick  placed  upon  two  wooden  forks.  A  heavy  vessel  is  sus- 
pended to  the  bottom  of  the  sack,  and  is  so  contrived  as  to  press  the 
juice  out  of  the  roots.  When  the  juice  is  all  taken  from  the  roots, 
Jiey  become  a  sort  of  starch,  which  is  exposed  to  smoke  in  order  to 
dry  it ;  when  well  dried,  it  is  passed  through  a  sieve :  it  is  now  called 
casava.  It  is  baked  into  cakes  by  laying  it  on  hot  plates  of  iron,  or 
on  hot  earth.  The  article  called  tapioca  is  the  finest  part  of  casava, 
collected  and  formed  into  small  tears,  by  straining  the  mass,  while  it 
is  still  moist,  so  as  to  make  it  into  small  irregular  lumps. 

Plantain  Bread — is  made  from  the  fruit  of  the  plantain  tree.  This 
fruit  is  about  a  foot  long,  and  from  an  inch  and  a  half  to  two  inches 
in  diameter,  and  has  a  tough  skin,  within  which  there  is  a  soft  pulp, 
of  a  sweet  flavour.  The  fruit  is  generally  cut  when  green ;  the  skin 
is  taken  off,  and  the  heart  is  roasted  in  a  clear  cold  fire  for  a  few 
minutes:  it  is  then  scraped,  and  served  up  as  bread.  This  tree  is  a 
native  of  the  East  Indies,  and  other  parts  of  the  Asiatic  continent,  but 
is  cultivated  on  an  extensive  scale  in  Jamaica.  It  is  said,  that  with- 
out this  fruit  the  West  India  islands  would  be  scarcely  inhabitable,  as 
no  species  of  provisions  could  supply  its  place.  Wheaten  bread  flour 
is  not  so  agreeable  to  the  negroes,  and  they  greatly  prefer  it  to  the 
fruit  of  the  bread  tree. 

Banana  Bread — is  made  of  the  fruit  of  the  banana  tree.  This  fruit 
is  about  four  or  five  inches  long,  of  the  shape  of  a  cucumber,  and  of  a 
highly  grateful  flavour.  They  grow  in  bunches  that  weigh  twelve 


154  THE    BAKEK. 

pounds  and  upwards.  The  pulp  of  the  banana  tree  is  softer  than  that 
of  the  plantain  tree,  and  of  a  more  luscious  taste.  When  ripe  it  is  a 
very  pleasant  food,  either  undressed,  or  fried  in  slices  like  fritters. 
All  classes  of  people  in  the  West  Indies  are  very  fond  of  it.  When 
preparing  for  a  voyage,  they  take  the  ripe  fruit  and  squeeze  it  through 
a  sieve;  then  form  the  mass  into  loaves,  which  are  dried  in  the  sun, 
or  baked  on  hot  ashes,  having  been  previously  wrapped  up  in  leaves. 

Moss  Bread,  or  bread  made  of  moss,  is  prepared  from  a  species  of 
the  tribe  lichen,  called  rein-deer  moss,  which  contains  a  considerable 
quantity  of  starch.  The  Icelanders  form  the  lichen  islandicus  into 
bread,  and  it  is  said  to  be  very  nutritive.  The  moss  is  collected  in 
the  summer,  dried,  and  ground  into  powder  —  of  which  bread  gruel 
and  pottage  are  made.  It  is  also  boiled  in  milk  or  whey,  till  it  cornea 
to  a  jelly.  It  should  be  previously  steeped  some  hours  in  warm  water, 
in  order  to  extract  the  bitter  matter  with  which  it  is  impregnated, 
which  is  not  only  disagreeable  as  to  taste,  but  is  also  a  purgative. 

Dried  Fish  Bread. — W^e  have  shown  that  a  great  variety  of  sub- 
stances are  used  as  substitutes  for  flour  bread.  We  now  come  to 
dried  fish,  which  appears  to  be  an  odd  thing  to  make  bread  of.  In 
Iceland,  Lapland,  Grim  Tartary,  and  other  parts  of  the  north,  a  kind 
of  bread  is  made  of  dried  fish,  beaten  first  into  powder,  sometimes 
with  the  inner  bark  of  trees,  and  then  made  up  into  cakes. 

Earth  Bread. — But  the  strangest  substitute  for  corn  bread  that  has 
ever  been  employed,  is  a  kind  of  white  earth  found  in  Upper  Lusatia, 
of  which  the  poor  in  times  of  scarcity  have  frequently  made  bread. 
This  bread  earth,  if  we  may  so  designate  it,  is  dug  out  of  a  hill  where 
salt-petre  had  formerly  been  worked.  When  heated  by  the  sun  it 
cracks,  and  small  globules  proceed  from  it  like  meal,  which  ferment 
when  mixed  with  flour.  It  is  said  on  good  authority,  that  on  this 
earth,  made  into  bread,  many  persons  have  subsisted  for  a  considera- 
ble time.  An  earth  very  similar  is  found  in  Catalonia. 


THE    END 


PARKINSON'S   CONFECTIONARY 

NO.  ISO   CHESTNUT  STREET, 
PHILADELPHIA. 

PUBLIC  AND  PRIVATE  BALLS,  Pic-Nics,  SOIREES 
AND  WEDDING  ENTERTAINMENTS,  supplied  with  every 
delicacy  ;  an  entirely  new  style  of  ORNAMENTAL 
PYRAMIDS,  COTTAGE,  RATIFIE  AND  CHANTILLY  BAS- 
KETS, for  TABLE  DECORATION  furnished  at  shortest 
notice. 

THE  SPACIOUS   AND   MAGNIFICENT   SALOONS 

attached  to  this  establishment  are  open  during 
the  day  and  evening  for  the  reception  of  visitors. 
COFFEE,  TEA,  CHOCOLATE,  ICES,  and  every  variety 
of  Refreshment  served  at  a  few  moments'  notice. 

ORDERS 

FROM    ANY    PART    OF   THE   UNITED   STATES, 

for  all  kinds  of  PRESERVED  FRUITS,  JELLIES,  JAMS, 
FRENCH,  ITALIAN  AND  MARTINIQUE  LIQUEURS,  SYRUPS 
(prepared  from  the  choicest  fruits),  BON-BONS, 
CHRISTMAS  GOODS,  DRAGEES  and  every  variety  of 
FANCY  CONFECTIONARY,  attended  to  with  Prompt- 
ness and  Punctualitv. 


155 


Oft 


